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Ctek 5.0 charger is good, 8 not 9 stage like their mxs10 @ £110+ version , good nonetheless. I've long been convinced the Maypole is an EEPROM rip of the ctek @ 1/2 price. Yeh considered split charging, salty price and double the battery price and a big car length install cost and you are still left with the original 'lifestyle' problem - just £400 lighter my mate. I'd rather invest in a 'get out of jail card' GB70 which is charged in the car via USB.

BlueTop batteries come in both light and dark gray cases; they are marine. YellowTop batteries are for accessories such as boom box's electric fans etc. Totally different type. If you spend a year thinking about this I'll tell you now what your conclusion will be. You are never ever going to win, your issue is lifestyle, or not enough alternator time to recharge the battery. Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week. The higher the voltage applied, the faster the battery will charge, charging at too high a voltage WILL damage your battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% : - @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%] So in 52 weeks you will conclude (1) drive a lot more (2) have it on trickle charge every night (3) have a spare enduroline fully charged which you will need changing Sept and Easter. A big dustbin will hold more than a little dustbin and a big battery will hold more than a little one, a big battery simply gives more 3 second cranks than a little one. - I also have one of these in the glove box at all times- in addition to an S6 on a nine stage charger at all times It isn't cheap being safe. Best of luck.

aH is not a unit of energy and does not start a 'cold morning' car CCA is a "measurement of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0 ° F for 30 seconds", particularly the case with compression diesels my friend.

RED top is an easy straight in, enduroline cheap as chips half of redtop, you get what you pay for. See here. Never ever put your REG in, they will sell you the wrong one, reproduced from an old post years go : Rang first to check stock, then went to Halfords, ordered their own recommended [put your registration in] 5 year warranted battery the HSB096 @ £129:99 while the nice clepto-cashier lady was emptying my plastic I flicked up the terminal covers to find the Terminals were the wrong way [o O - they should be - O o] round. http://i40.tinypic.com/1y8j2r.gif A 12 year old expert fully trained and certificated male assistant wiped the dribble from his nose and stormed out to my MOTA in the rain which was splattering against his thin bony shoulders making a mess of his over white freshly ironed by his Mother .. .. shirt, all the time asserting in a very authoritative way why I way wrong and why it could not possibly be their 'fittings dBase', his matchstick like thin arms finally managed to lift the bonnet without breaking any of his arms only to find the common standard terminals. I did try to help his embarrassment, honest I did, I even offered him one of my Wurthers Originals and assured him we all make mistakes .. .. its all part of life's long learning .. .. but I still want my £230 snots back and I want them now. So now I'm back to where I started, I never in my life thought buying a correct 'soddin battery would be so much trouble. So I start the search again - this companies dBase correctly identifies the MOTA even listing the correct colour of my car etc and suggests 2 - both in the S range both will do the job , the; S4010 / 12V, capacity 80Ah, cold test current 740A / £72:95 - 5 year warranty - free deliveryS5010 / 12V, capacity 85Ah, cold test current 800A / £87:50 - 5 year warranty - free delivery My one remaining indecision is that though they list 315mm long, 175mm wide, 175mm high, the 315mm is about 27mm / 1.06 inches more than my current battery which will make the 175mm installed height of the battery a full inch closer to the sound deadening material on the underside of the bonnet [radiator side]. Two Three Four Points .1. - unless someone wants to convince me before Monday that it wont fit, or the terminals are arras first I'll buy the bigger one .2. - why waste all these letters of the alphabet ?, because there is an issue getting an 85/800 in the UK to fit a Voyager, and others following me might benefit from a thread that proves you don't have to go for a lesser capacity paying a lot - when you can have the full 85/800 for relatively little compared to the 175/175/278 size. .3. - if I'm wrong tell me quick !!!! because although this Forum's users will benefit from my mistake, I'll be £88 Quid down the chute ! .4. - don't believe what these 'enter your registration' dataBASE's tell you .. .. they are as good as the wo/man entering the DATA and I've found three tonight alone that were wrong, and one [in hope more that expectation] that's correct.

Reproduced from an old post of mine. Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace. Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Best of luck. Power seat fuse : are as stated droppers, as you have had your battery removed for 4 days the 'droppers' should re-set themselves via the BCM/IPM Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week. The higher the voltage applied, the faster the battery will charge, charging at too high a voltage WILL damage your battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% : - @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%] Its not linear so : - two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement of about 300% The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged. - 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator- 14.00 volts is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator- 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing- 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time NOTE01 : There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and I have never been unable to start the car since. They are : • Electrical items left on.• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.• An internally shorted generator.• Intermittent shorts in the wiringRemote key fobRadioHeater blowerFolding mirrorsCentral locksInterior lights when the key is in the ignition IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - According to Chrysler's own workshop manual : Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amper- age IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at faultThe term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. BatteryMOD I like many of us was an early adopter of AGM, most of us by now will be AGM. It occurs to me that the safe μF we chose for the buttonMOD could be changed to give closer to 14.4V than the 14.1 I was getting. I went 13.9 to 14.1 it would be nice to have that extra .3V, it would make a hell of a difference on a big 80aH even over such a short charging time frame as 15 minutes. I was thinking 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt would be a goodish guesstimate for keeping it under the 14.6[ish] although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher. I'll be happy if I can get to the extra .3's @ 14.4 * Tested .... smack on 14.4-6 winter and 14+ summer over a 6 month period steady across the REV range. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs Well pleased ! Battery Test IMO 99% of test products including garages are useless old 1940's tech, you need even on a brand new battery what CCA it is actually delivering and they are not cheap. Best of luck.

The Americans/manual calls it TPP - the manuals are here - the RG Powertriain/componant locations/page 261/shows the APP and harness next to the throttle/see the imgur post 2 lines above - note this forum bans short URL's just paste" imgur.com/a/oHc2v8p " into a browser, best of luck.

Clue might be in this install https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvZ477qE-wA

- used a capable M18 + big battery, lotsa high rothenburger gas, black grade socket and a scafee bar over a 1 yard snap on bar, did it but it was a pig, even with 5 spring compressors couldn't get them down so i had to borrow a foot operated automotive hydraulic commercial spring compressor,you would never know / see how bad they were till you completely disassemble !

Sorted from jeep chrysler lads ta !, if you need em, these are they : #2 @ £24.95 GBP per sideSTRUT MOUNT & BEARING - FRONT, UPPER CHRYSLER VOYAGER/GRAND VOYAGER (RS/RG) in years 01-07 DODGE CARAVAN/GRAND CARAVAN (RS/RG) in years 01-07 OEM # 4766116AB

Looking for strut 'top cups and bearings' if anyone knows where they are lads !

Redo starter earth and trigger wire as in undo, clean tighten replace especially the spade on the trigger wire.

Yes, flushed with ordinary hosepipe water. The en hose in the white plastic top up bottle flowing in at the same slow rate as the slackened bottom hose was flowing out. Heat full on and fan full on with engine running is to completely flush the heater matrix. You will see the pulse [es] of water going into the little In pipe on the water top up bottle as evidence of a regular circulation of water all round your engine. I used a full 5L can of G05 and a full 5L can of distilled water to refill with the correct coolant when the forward flush was running clear. Take care with a running engine ! Best of luck.

I had no problem but decided to do an all fluids change including oil, and hygroscopic bake fluid. Vacuum through the dipstick did a good half on gearbox then replace with recommended. Loosened bottom hose OUT with engine running, heater matrix wide open, fan full belt and hose pipe at the same rate IN did the job. It looked like Heinz main course soup - lots of square carrots - do NOT back-flush alloy rads !

Manifold absolute pressure sensor [MAP] as an alternative to the MAF type, both for injected car air flow measurement.

4 years ago - still applies.

A good 70W German panel correctly orientated in the summer will do, in the winter no idea but should do. A cheepo panel from Maplins won't hack it even in the summer. The 'buttonMOD' gives me 14+ in the summer and 14.5 in the winter which is a shipload better than the default before the buttonMOD. The Optima RedTop battery @ 800CCA will go straight in for about £150 delivered will straight in but will not fix your 'lifestyle' issue of infrequent use.

Zero start or no attempt to engage bendix ? No electrical activity at all is usually trigger wire. http://my.prostreetonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/starter_solenoid1.jpg

- the pump bulb is always 'limp' and starting improves when primed - new filter housing and replacement loom conn set - the problem today for the first time is that it didn't want to turnover at all Above suggests #2 problems. Air in or vacuum leak out of the LP side and battery charging issues. I've seen more than several where the white plastic water trap [bottom] has vibrated loose giving both 'no start' and 'decelerating cut out' going into limp0 mode. Either way they along with 'double / twisted 0 a ring and dirty diesel filer are' cheap or cost free DIY issues that need eliminating.

Have a read here and here and here my friend, as bignev will tell you it can be any of a dozen issues, but they need to be ranked ~ tested ~ and made good in order to be economic. Usually from DIY + cheap to specialist + expensive. Everyone has a worthwhile opinion, mine is always battery 1st ~ battery 1st ~ battery 1st battery 1st, then diesel Low Pressure starting supply. Best of luck

Proper stuff is ± £26 delivered to your door .. .. HOAT G05

41TE info from allpar.

Plates are lead .... not lead alloy and 850CCA is a very big thumping crank. Good kit, very good kit. A whole £2 spent on this. 12.65 = 100% 12.45 = 075% 12.24 = 050% 12.06 = 025% 11.89 = 000% dead as a dodo SJC even a battery of this quality will let you down [lifestyle] if you don't charge it up. See above an additional £2QUID will tell you when [25%] you need to change / charge. Make sure you use the switch-able low output cigarette lighter socket on the RHS. Best of luck.

Leedsman has not been around for 3+ years. Here is his original 2013 thread.

- it will be on all the time if its cold enough - it will 'run on' for a short time after its turned off to clear the fuel & fume from the 'burn bowl' - it will never switch on under 1/4 tank of fuel Cheeepo pipe lagging from screwfix will speed up the water & cabin heat time and reduce fuel consumption while increasing engine protection. I'm lucky I own a digital lathe and made a housing for my in-line stat Renault 5 Part Number TH01489 from rock auto uk. The 22K Ω buttonMOD completes your winterising self help. Best of luck.

- beeps when locking / unlocking - kilometres / miles - SatNav DVD codes etc - DRL etc Are all functions of the EVIC. The EVIC however is a function of the 'country code' it will be right there and visible in a full workshop quality diagnostic scanner but will not turn on if at the time your GV EEPROM was written it was not in your country code.