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Posts posted by karmannski
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Now this is totally strange, I had to do a 30 mile round trip today so with just water in the system and no inline stat it took a long time to warm as expected but eventually crept to between 1/4 and 1/2 in traffic then back down to 1/4 when cruising
When I got home i checked the level , I have not lost any water, the system had virtually no pressure and no sign of any bubbles in the header tank
I will run for a week drain /flush then refill with coolant
Need new Thermostat, on MK4 temperature should be round the middle all the time.
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The BCM seems to be faulty on our 2003 CRD Grand Voyager. The rear doors won't open remotely, the switches on the B posts don't work. The overhead console functions are all not working either. Can the BCM be reprogrammed? Is this a Chrysler dealer job?
Yeah reset BCM by unpluging battery for 30min like @@bignev said.
If wont help,
1. Plug in Diagnostic tool. and read any codes.
2. Clean all ground cables http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/4935-sliding-doors-problem-on-mk5/
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tried two commercial 1 ton hydraulic strut coil stations - useless
ended with 6x390mm new Amazon cheepo clamps, used only 5
Got to be worst waste of a whole day, still have the other side to do .. .. ..
WTF? how did you manage to put 5 clamps on one spring?
they must be relay small - got some pictures?
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I have just ordered longer 380mm clamps.
These should do the job.
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Have you took the head off?
Need to be pressure tested and if good skimmed, after all it should be Ok.
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Hi all,
I managed to fix the issue and hope that it will help some of you in the future to save some stress and money.
The problem was bad ground wire G300 that lives under the carpet next to the B pillars on each side of the car.
You must remove plastic covers and lift the carpet, undo the wire and give it a good clean.
I found this video for similar problem, that might help you to picture it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSEAVnWP5X0
Hopefully this is it and I wont have this problem any more.
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Problem is coming back. Sadly
I will have to do further inspection
Has anyone got access to the diagrams for central locking?
My MOT will expire in 3 weeks and I need to get this done ASAP .
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Yeah I was strugling with them too, painfull job.
Its is better to pay few quid more for complete assemble with new springs.
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check Oil pressure - you can buy the tool in most of the shops or online (eBay)
It could be oil pump seal.
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Both sliding doors do not open manual only from the remote or cabin buttons (!)
Now in the cold morning like today 1-2 Celsius both started to work 1st thing in the morning.
So I assume this is more electrical issue than mechanical.
Before I will take the panels off, or the doors can anyone share their experience with similar issue?
Thanks a lot.
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Bad Crank sensor or ring should activate EML - well it did on mine 2008 MK5 not 100% sure on MK4.
Usually it is the valve at the end of the fuel rail that leaks under gigh pressure and replacing him usually helps for 2-3 years.
+ clean or replace MAP sensor.
+ clean EGR if you can (or block it) it will help.
There was a very good video on YouTube while ago done by @@Andy from here targeting all areas of cut off problems.
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Taking the Head off MK4 Voyager not hard at all,
1. Remove the top plastic Cover (where whippers are)
2. Undo Thermostat hose's ( it will be easier without the cover on)
3. Get locking tools to lock crank and cams (on eBay for few quid)
4. Remove Cam belt etc, Inlet, exhaust
Thats it Head off.
Let us know how Liquid gasket worked on/
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when my put my in Reverse b4 I release brake pedal it produce vibrations too.
Check you gearbox fluid condition and level as well, not saying that it ill help but always good to change that regualry.
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Check the Voltage on you batter it may be low.
Go to Halfords/KwickFit etc to test your battery.
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I've got a mark 5 Grand Voyager 2.8 CRD Limited and mine usually hovers around about the same place, the heaters blow nice and hot as well.
Thanks bro - and what is your Fuel consumption those days in Cold Engine?
I drive 20 miles to work Engine gets worm after 10miles, then I get around 10l/100km and just before I will end my 20miles trip it get better like 8l/100km
But @SpawninHell apparently manege to achieve 6l/100 at 50mph
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look on ebay there was a manual dvd version for few quid.
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It is expensive I agree.
I have done it my self but was quoted same £400 plus parts last year.
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It wont work plug&play - this stereo is very complicated - I tried to pit aftermarket stereo ages ago and I give-up its to do with the amplifier I think.
However there is a FM transmitter that can be used or just use you RCA ports (AV Components)
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Hi I just ordered new front wheel bearing for my 2.8 CRD 2008 for £89 incl VAT Blue Print Brand from local car parts shop, I don't understand why your garage has got a problem with it.
I just went by Reg plates and all done.
I think that you can buy ball joints on its own and press old out and new in.
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Head Gasket sorted out.
Head tested&skimed £50 (cash in hand) , new 1.2mm head gasket for £30 from eBay
Old bolts as they do not stretch and are spot on 15.5cm long every single one and there is TEN of them not 18 or 16.
Anyway, now I need to clean all injectors as not efficient and has got low performance and need new washers as one of them leaks.
Engine is taping and smoke comes out.
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Price& pictures please ?
Front Strut Top Bush Nightmare
in Voyager 4th Generation (2001-2007)
Posted
On this video it looks so easy made.
don't think that it will work that well on the Dieasel Voyager springs.
I rang the guys from Jeep-Chrysler Parts - and asked them for a complete struts with new springs and top mounts.
They only have them for Petrol models MK4&MK5.
And they do not sale Diesel springs, + very hard to get the right one.
So I will have to use old once.