karmannski

I will try to check, 3 out of 4 Cyl as I cant be bother of removing alt to get in to the 1st plug. Sorry but I'm going away in few days for holiday. 

And I recommend to use some diagnostic equipment to read faulty codes from ECU that will help us to focus on the right stuff. 

It could be anything. 

- bad fuel 

- bad injector

- low pressure (normally wont start or will cut off)

- MAF Sensor need replacing (try to borrow one just to test it)

- bad timing? If cam-belt was done and timing not set right will have to check that. 

Keep in touch 

hehe, next will be "put that foot down and let me VRRRUMMMMMM that babe !!!"

Heave you tried to replace Fusebox with ECU under the bonnet? 

Have you read this topic?

http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/4967-the-dreaded-1130-code-2007-28-voyager/

awsome

Hi All 

Has anyone here got spare cylinder head for 07 CRD 2.8?

Thanks

You can buy workshop manual on Ebay on DVD disc for all Diesel 2008-2011 

Seller name is : remont-all

I use this manual and it is very helpful. 

Well done! 

Hi there what engine size is your grand as i got a deiphi from ebay and never did get it to connect to my 03 2.5 crd voyager but it connected to a vauxhall and bmw ok so i no it works ok.

MK4 was 2.8 CRD 

MK5 2.8 CRD 

Never tested in on 2.5 CRD but it should work fine. 

Buy Delphi OBD Reader from eBay - Covers mine MK4 and MK5 Voyagers , and many more cars. 

Well done mate

eBay? 

I will have a look tonight on the chrysler Manual. 

I bet its the Thermostat 

Hi Soupstone,

                         thanks for your reply, i checked that before fitting the new housing, this is really getting to me now,  never had so much grief with a car, Chrysler agents are pretty poo when it comes to diagnosis of problem, and want loads of money 

If you changed and tested everythnig? 

- Injectors Test. 

- High Pressure Valve

- MAP Sensor (In inlet) 

- Fuel Filter 

- Turbo Actuator

- Cleaned EGR and Inlet

Try to swap or at least clean Mass Air Flow Meter, if you know someone near who owns same car. 

Don't Give up!

If you will need a help pop in to Peterborough. 

There was a new MOPAR Towbar for MK5 few weeks ego on eBay, 

I have aftermarket Witter bar but never tested it. 

If you will call Witter Towbar System guys they will sale you dedicated bar for your car. 

Also:

Test, and if leaking Fuel pressure Valve. 

Check compression on cylinders. 

Clean MAP sensor

Clean EGR valve (good-luck) 

It may be worth of removing Injectors and cleaning them. 

Thanks for the suggestion. That might be worth looking at if the power sliding doors didn’t work at all, but they do when the key is not in the ignition. They only stop working when I turn the key to first position.

Keep us updated, 

This Ground cable (under carpet) I believe is responsible for more than just a door. 

there 

under the carpet next to the B Pillar on each side you will find G300 ground wire that may need cleaning. 

Remove plastics and B pillars to access it. 

Undo take a wire brush, and bolt it back in. 

Hi all, hope someone can help. I’ve had the car for nearly 10 years now (it’s a 2008 GV). I had an issue for a while which consisted of the car only going into first gear when put in drive and staying in first, I’d realise after driving for a while, stop, put into neutral, engine off, start again and it would normally be ok. Also, whilst this was happening if I tried to operate the manual gear change it wouldn’t show any gear at all on the display and stay in first. The engine warning light was on for about a year because of this. Eventually I reset the TIPM and the engine warning light went off and this issue seemed to stop. The reason I reset the TIPM was in the hope that it would enable me to unlock my drivers door which now refuses to open. The button pops up with the fob and with the inside handle but the second stage of the lock does not open and I can’t get in the driver’s door. This morning I went out, opened the sliding doors fine, stowed the seats, then tried to start the car and everything is completely dead, lights, doors everything (doors worked fine seconds before) the little clock on the dash is still going. I had a new battery 4 years ago. Any ideas on how to get the driver’s door open and what this other issue could be, can a battery fail like that? I’m used to seeing a few symptoms first and having paid over 300 quid for this one 4 years ago, would expect it to last a little longer than this. The door issue is separate but still needs sorting. I’m currently resetting the TIPM again and charging the battery but I doubt this will sort the door.

Any thoughts?

Did you fix the door problem? 

Hi Did you managed to fix this? 

I recently had similar issue but with rear sliding door (covered in MK5 section) 

Doors locked every time with no problems only when it came to unlocking the actuators on both sides stuck. 

The problem was corded  ground wire under behind front seat under the carpet. 

I disconnected it clean it with a brush and so far Ok. 

Hard one, been looking for one for ages. 

Search/Look at US eBay 

Did you find it? 

Is it MK4 or MK5 you looking? 

Go to Chrysler HQ [usa]...pick a town/dealer [dont share your location in search] call or write them with vin. Ive done it a few times..Remember, they do the VM engine in the usa [jeep] ....It is fiat/chrysler]

Yeah but I dont want to pay $$$$ for two springs from states. 

It's not worth it. 

You can sale it and look for another one for £2-£4k 

If its only a service like cam-belts, brakes, interior cleaning then yes.