soupstone

Unfortunately I'm no draughtsman, and it's in inches as I think, being American, it was done in inches (mm readings were a bit odd)

Hope it helps
 
https://ibb.co/TkY8BGq
 
 Not bothered with the short leg sizes, as I never used them. Probably used to get a start then changed to the longer ones. 

Just read another one of your posts, you're in Spain. 

I'll get you some measurements

Did you replace the o-ring when the injector was out?

What's the symptoms? Is the car charging at around 14-14.v? What's been done to the car recently? Anything that could have caused the initial issues? Timing belt jumped a tooth? Something that could have affected the fuel pump?

Just read your other thread I'd replied to about the alternator. Did it start before the timing belt change?

Hope all turns out good for your daughter and son Roy, all the best, Rab

 

Hi Rich, personally, I wouldn't let 195k put me off buying it, as it's cheap enough.
 See if you can check when the timing belt was last done, and if the autobox has had a service. If not/can't see it's definately been done, I'd still buy it but get the timing belt done ASAP. 
After that, as long as it's all working fine, and your happy with the condition, I'd jump at it.

There's a few little faults reared their heads through this forum and the one with the same address but .com on the end, but a lot of them are easy, cheap fixes. 



 

25-28mpg with my 2.8 diesel auto, 15-18mpg when towing.
Had a 2.5 diesel manual before, consistently got 33mpg.

Agree with QinteQ.
 
Do the battery mod and check for parasitic battery drain. 


 

Check what voltage the car charges at and where does the temperature gauge sit when it's up to temperature. 

If charging's less than 14v or the temperature gauge sit's around a quarter, the cars got two common issues that I've had with both the GVs I've previously owned. 

Good news is, both issues are easily remedied, for under a tenner. 
 

Thanks Soupstone, 
 
That is the next thing to change. I am in a state of wishful thinking hoping it is the wiring but knowing it is 99% unlikely. 
 
Very helpfully a previous post gave where to buy the whole assembly.
 
Thanks again
 
All the best
 
David

I think the wiring damage occurs because the filter head has a hairline crack in it. 
Fuel drips onto the connection, causing the damage there.
 
 When driving along, the hairline crack draws air into the fuel system, causing the cutting out issue.

Hi It Was a blocked rad some of the veins were totally blocked at the botton of the rad thanks to all for there support. Jeff

To confirm a blocked radiator, get the temp up and try to press the top radiator hose. If it's quite solid, I'd lean towards a blockage. 
The other way would be up to temperature, then jamb the fan so it can't come on without warning. Put fingers through to feel top and bottom of radiator. 
 If cold at the bottom and hot at the top, blocked radiator. 

Take the filter out again and double check there's not 2 o-rings in there. 
Long shot, but worth a go, and something that has been reported before. 

Take the filter out again and double check there's not 2 o-rings in there. 
Long shot, but worth a go, and something that has been reported before. 

I'd go with labelled wrong, your replacement part is 70cm short, which is a bit of a coincidence considering the actual difference between the stow n go and non stow n go is 70cm. 
I can 100% confirm 04721246AC fitted my 2006 stow n go. 

Got rid of my voyager because mines was no good for towing. It may have been an underlying fault/issue with the gearbox. I'd had the fluid and filter changed nd it made no difference. 
  Even with an empty towavan on the back, it would kick down too readily trying to maintain 50 on the flat. 

I got the temp creeping up when going to Cornwall, up a couple of the big long climbs, but it settled again once on the flat/downhill. That was with 1600kg on the back. 

 

Can't see the police checking bulbs or informing your insurer they are not standard equipment.
Even if they did, i'd think it would have to be proven the lights caused any insurance claim that had arisen.
Put non standard bulbs in today, they give up to 150% more light than standard. Still coded E. Had looked at non road legal bulbs, but I'd rather not blind people. 

Can't see the police checking bulbs or informing your insurer they are not standard equipment.
Even if they did, i'd think it would have to be proven the lights caused any insurance claim that had arisen.
Put non standard bulbs in today, they give up to 150% more light than standard. Still coded E. Had looked at non road legal bulbs, but I'd rather not blind people. 

8 rockers, yes. I had a belt snap previously. Here's my thread on another forum when mines went. 

  https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/2-5-crd-timing-belt-loads-damage-10979/
 
The injectors are a pig to get out though, so much so I had to buy an injector puller.
If you go ahead with repairs, I've the genuine Chrysler puller one here if you need it. I'd happily post it to you at cost, as long as I get it back again. 

 http://www.vmdieselspecialist.com/worth a call to price parts, I've used them a few times (replacement injector seals and o-rings, gasket)

 

8 rockers, yes. I had a belt snap previously. Here's my thread on another forum when mines went. 

  https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/2-5-crd-timing-belt-loads-damage-10979/
 
The injectors are a pig to get out though, so much so I had to buy an injector puller.
If you go ahead with repairs, I've the genuine Chrysler puller one here if you need it. I'd happily post it to you at cost, as long as I get it back again. 

 http://www.vmdieselspecialist.com/worth a call to price parts, I've used them a few times (replacement injector seals and o-rings, gasket)

 

8 rockers. Then all the parts that you would have bought for a cam belt change anyway. 
The injectors will need to come out to get to the rockers (this can be a pain) and you'll probably need an alignment tool to set it up again.

Prices are cheaper now than when mines went, just had a look and you can get a timing belt kit with water pump for as little as £120. I was £185 for the water pump alone.
Rockers on ebay, £75 for 16. £14 for a locking kit. 
 

Mines cost around £1600 after the belt snapped. I'd go with the £450

I'm on a Mondeo Estate now. Had a double bed to move today, it went in, just. 
The Mondeo tows better (my pet peeve with the GV) and does 50 MPG compared to the 25 my GV done, but I still miss it. 

Unfortunately, can't delete. 

It could work out to be not so bad a situation for you then, let's hope hey mate!! I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.