soupstone

Think it's more the legs that matter, and the top part. That's what seats the tool in position, more so the bottom of the legs into the cavity between the injectors, with the top part giving you the correct spacing between them. 
For actually pulling up, as long as there's a slot that goes round the injector, it'll be good to go. 

Yep, #1 and #2 are the puller part, just to try and show it a bit better.

Good luck with the project.
  

Unfortunately I'm no draughtsman, and it's in inches as I think, being American, it was done in inches (mm readings were a bit odd)

Hope it helps

https://ibb.co/TkY8BGq

 Not bothered with the short leg sizes, as I never used them. Probably used to get a start then changed to the longer ones. 

Just read another one of your posts, you're in Spain. 

I'll get you some measurements

I've one here for £80.

It's been adapted, I suspect it was done so it could pull the injectors from the LDV as well (more bulbus top).

Had to buy one years ago when my belt snapped, cost about £450 all in from America. Not all bad, I rented it out at £100 a pop plus postage and got a good 12 or 13 hires. Nearly covered the whole rebuild costs.

Think I paid around £90-£100 for a reconditioned one when I still had my GV, which included return postage for mines (otherwise there was a surcharge).
Similar issues beforehand, random lights, random issues, then cut out and wouldn't start again. 
 Belt tension, when you remove one of the bolts, and loosen the others, does alternator not just pivot?

Had it on a 2002 and a 2006. 
 

Both times it was fuel filter related. The 2002 I had changed and it hadn't sealed it right, 2006 it had been changed before I picked it up and was slightly loose. If it's not had a fuel filter for a while, that can cause it too.
 

After that, the filter housing would be where I'd look. Hairline crack possibly. 

Those are pretty simple/cheap before you get into the nitty gritty

Did you replace the o-ring when the injector was out?

What's the symptoms? Is the car charging at around 14-14.v? What's been done to the car recently? Anything that could have caused the initial issues? Timing belt jumped a tooth? Something that could have affected the fuel pump?

Just read your other thread I'd replied to about the alternator. Did it start before the timing belt change?

Hope all turns out good for your daughter and son Roy, all the best, Rab

 

Was a couple of years ago now, but I got an alternator from Ebay on an exchange basis. 

You just popped the old one in the box the recon one came in, and sent it back. 

Here you go, cheaper than when I done it. (seen your original post, cant remember but assuming it's for a diesel?)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1A2830-ALTERNATOR-For-CHRYSLER-Grand-Voyager-IV-2-5-2-8-CRD/263218935251?epid=25010161697&hash=item3d491235d3:g:pLMAAOSwQiBZwlJM

I've 4 here, aftermarket and only on the car about a year. 

Tyres no good, I'll dig them out tomorrow, wash and get some pictures. They need to go anyway, it'll encourage me to advertise them even if you're not interested. 

Just curious, how NW UK is NW UK? 

To the best of my knowledge, only at the rear axle. 
That's the only one I changed on my 2003 2.5crd, never seen another one. 

Passenger foot well if you want it wired to the fuse box. 
Ran a towbar wire through there before, it then runs behind the plastic liner up into the engine bay. 

Diesel? Start with the fuel filter. If it's been renewed recently, remove and refit it. If it hasn't, change it. 

Sure, there's other things it might be, but it's a quick and reasonably priced place to start

Agree with QinteQ.

Do the battery mod and check for parasitic battery drain. 


 

Mines was used for short journeys really, 8 miles to work, battery charged around 13.8v. When winter came, it wasn't enough to keep the battery topped up and it would start to have starting issues. The low charging was also causing the battery to fail/stop holding a charge, and was replaced every year to 18 months until I done the mod (4 years to get it on the first one, modded my second one when I bought it) 

Post 13 on this thread of QinteQ, at the bottom, gives the original info from a guy called Leedsman who was great with everything GV.

 http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/895-06-starting-issue/  

 The other issue was the thermostat sticking open meaning 1/4 on the temp gauge. Again, more of an issue come winter time. Renault 5 Thermostat fitted in the top radiator hose was the workaround. 

 https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/fitting-second-thermostat-20480/

 Handbrake work was virtually every mot for mines.

Cutting out under acceleration. Both mines was a remove and refit the fuel filter to solve, but there are others that have had to replace a valve on the end of the fuel rail. It's just air getting in to the system. 

The radio can cause a power drain, especially if it has or has ever had an aftermarket stereo fitted. I fitted a switch to isolate the radio when I parked up.

Sounds bad when I write the issues I had between the two, but they're great cars.
 Fuel economy (change of job, would have been a gallon each way) and it wasn't very good at towing our 1600kg caravan were the only reasons we got rid of ours (15mpg towing, constantly kicking down/high revs).

For spares, "VM diesel specialist" was where I got engine spares. Other spares, it's worth giving ex Chrysler dealers a call. 

Think that's about it, between this forum and chryslerforum.com, you'll get any info and help you might need. 

 

Check what voltage the car charges at and where does the temperature gauge sit when it's up to temperature. 

If charging's less than 14v or the temperature gauge sit's around a quarter, the cars got two common issues that I've had with both the GVs I've previously owned. 

Good news is, both issues are easily remedied, for under a tenner. 
 

Best bet would be a mobile locksmith. 

 Try this place for a quote. Used a similar company local to me before when the only working key we had stopped working. 

 
http://autolocksmithnorthampton.co.uk/car_keys.php

 Guessing it's got the auxiliary heater. 
Pipes running from behind engine to the Webasto, just to the rear of the drivers door. 

Look under the drivers door, a small exhaust should poke out a bit. Follow the pipes to the leak. 

You've found the rear fuse box then, that was the cause of my issue, although it was all the indicators that were flashing rapidly. Hazard and unlock worked fine.
I'd pulled the fuses checking for a battery drain and put one back in the wrong slot. 

I'd try to hand trace the towbar electrics, try and find a dedicated bypass relay, and check the wiring is all ok. Can't remember if mines had one or not, can remember removing all the panelling roof to boot floor and towards the wheelwell at the LHS of the car though.
There must be a connection to the bodywork somewhere for ground/negative, make sure it's ok. 

 Just a guess, but are there any earth cable(s) for the rear lights? 

 
 If they're not flashing correctly all the time, I assume that's what's giving you the rapid flashing on the fronts and sides.

Has it got a factory tow bar fitted?

I've got a miller tools injector puller and 2 new handbrake cables (rears) for the Grand Voyager. 
Would anyone be interested in purchasing them?
Set of aftermarket alloys there too. 

I'd have posted in the for sale section, but does anyone look there?

I think the wiring damage occurs because the filter head has a hairline crack in it. 

Fuel drips onto the connection, causing the damage there.

 When driving along, the hairline crack draws air into the fuel system, causing the cutting out issue.

Yep, and it may not even be burnt out connections. 
A blocked fuel filter would also give the same symptoms, as does a loose fuel filter. 
Had it with 2 GV's now, both times removing and refitting the filters (both recently changed) solved the problem. I checked the housing at the same time. 

My first port of call would be the battery. 
Voltage before first start, and charging voltage when running. 
If the charging voltage is below 14 (ideally 14.4) there's a modification you can do to get this up to the 14.4.

I've fixed a metal radiator pipe before using liquid metal/petrol patch. 

Might be worth a go.