soupstone

My radio is original, but when chasing a power draw, I removed it and found that it had previously had an aftermarket stereo fitted. 
This was what was causing my battery drain. There was a wire that was live all the time, that should have no power to it with the keys removed.
In my case, the electric windows work all the time, and the clock on the radio is always displaying the time. 
Suspect the wiring's been messed about with somewhere, to give the aftermarket stereo that had been fitted a constant live feed. I fitted a seperate switch to isolate the constant live. 

Something you could try tonight is pull the rdo ewd/rr wpr fuse, see if that keeps the battery voltage around the 12.6.
 Ideally, you would use a test meter and check for a current draw. Mines was 600mA, and it went down to around 30mA when pulling the fuse I've mentioned. 

Are you switching it off before turning off the ignition when leaving the car?

Have a look at post #40 and read on from there. Andy has found the fuse and relay missing from his.
 

http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/2219-28crd-cutting-out-above-25k-rpm/page-2

Best check you've nothing draining the battery too, if the battery looks to have solved the issue. 

Courtesy of Clint221, "04721246AC is the genuine Chrysler part number, it was about £70 from a main dealer."

That's the one I bought for my 2006 stow n go and it was the correct one. 

Mines was around £74, bought from the local Jeep parts department, that used to deal with Chryslers. 


Here's Clints original thread, he stated it's 700mm longer, so should be the 262cm one.

 

http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1665-front-handbrake-cable-problem/

25-28mpg with my 2.8 diesel auto, 15-18mpg when towing.
Had a 2.5 diesel manual before, consistently got 33mpg.

SJC, when was the fuel filter last changed? 
Twice I've removed and refitted the filters on GVs and it has solved a cutting out issue, as they were letting in air. Both had had recent filter changes and the bowl or filter not tightened enough.


 

 Yes, the fuse and relay are both present in mines. 

If it's grown specifically for biofuels, I can see why it would produce more emissions and increase the price of food crops. 
Mines was made at home from used oil, collected from local businesses, and cost about 60p a gallon. 

The filters definitely worth a go.
 When you mentioned gunk earlier, was there a lot? Emptying the filter bowl may have got rid of a lot of it,  giving you a good flow again, but it's built up again and is partially blocking the filter? 
​ This is a long shot, but perhaps google diesel bug (again, due to you mentioning gunk). I read about it when running biodiesel, and put an additive in to prevent it. I'm under the impression pump diesel can contain bio diesel these days, up to 5% without being declared. 

  

 Pretty sure the rear fuel bowl has a drain tap on it as well, so worth checking for either setup. 

 

Would make sense having it fed 12v permanent to a second socket but is wrong...I had a 99 grand voyager (which was actually 3.3 petrol) that came with twin electrics but both were ignition only. The second one is to keep the fridge and other electrics on while the caravan is connected to the car...not over night but only whilst moved from A to B or stationary with the engine running.

Keep an eye on the battery if you have anything towing so it doesn't drain it.

 Turns out it's not  dedicated electrics, it's a bypass relay. The 12v looks to be to supply the voltage to the trailer, so it's not fed directly from the cars systems. 

Not related to the topic but why did you have to go from the towbar to the front side of the car?!?! Everything needed for wiring a towbar is found at the back in the tail lights.

 

Even more easy to wire the camdash ( assuming you want it wired on ignition), is to go around the dash to the 12v socket.

If you want it to the engine bay just so you can add a fuse on it, it doesn't need one, you can use one of the existing circuits.

 No idea to be honest, I got it fitted by a friend, dedicated electrics, and he said it needed a 12v supply. 

Needed the car back and he hadn't fitted this one wire. He said it had to go to the battery. 

Double checked with Goggs at the time (don't think he's on here, just the .com site) who had also fitted a towbar and had a feed from the battery too. 

Possibly for twin electrics?

When wiring a towbar, I took a wire through the front passenger footwell. There's wiring goes through from there to behind the wheel arch cover, where it can be routed into the engine bay. 

Tax hikes on older diesels will just be budget by budget. Restrictions/charges may come in for driving in certain zones though.

Right, well this is getting odd now!

As you know, I spun the fuel filter off, had a look and didn't see much of a problem. I've not really used the car since. This weekend I had it out and driving (Went for MOT) and thought I'd see how it was behaving. I could NOT get it to stall on me, hard acceleration, slow acceleration, almost red-lining the revs and it just wouldn't do it!

Thought it was a fluke but did it several times over the weekend and can't get it to fail on me.

 

So several bits to this:

I've had the fuel filter off, filter out, tipped gunk out of bottom of housing, reseated rubber o-ring and refitted it.

I've also been running this potentially 'bad' fuel down (down to half a tank now from full) and have put redex diesel injector cleaner in it (upping the RON).

 

So could it have been a combination of the above? I'm not saying this is fixed as I'm expecting it to do it again but I'm starting to wonder now.

When I had a cutting out issue on my 2.5, all I did was remove and refit the filter bowl and that cured it.  

Removing and refitting the front filter on my 2.8 also stopped the same symptom cutting out problem. That was finger tight when I went to take it off, the guy had serviced it before I picked it up. 

So I'd say it's quite possibly been the cause all along. 

Have you searched ebay for "breaking grand voyager"? There seems to be quite a few on there just now. 

Had cutting out issues twice, on 2 different GV's, both times it was the fuel filter. 
Engine cuts out, ignition lights come on as you stop, sometimes it would restart immediately, sometimes it would take a few tries. 

...it does sound like fuel starvation,

What about the quality of fuel. I once went to France with cooking oil, all fine until next day(-2 or -4 it was) when it did not want to start until I drained two batteries and towed it about 400 metres. But once started it was like running in three pistons and a bit smokey.

I do apologize if I go randomly but hoping at least will take you near the fault...

 Off topic, but was that a CRD on cooking oil? Ran my first voyager on bio as it was the CRD. 

Don't make bio any more, but if someones successfully ran on veg in the hotter months, I'd give it a go. 

 Does your abs light illuminate when you switch on the ignition? 
Pretty sure mines was always showing trac off when I had an ABS fault, there may be other issues that cause it too though.

Got them and o-rings from here before
http://www.vmdieselspecialist.com 
 

Just had mines done, there was a guy on ebay that could get me one for around £130. 
I suspect he was buying it from Chrysler and making a bit for himself, as it was only £75 from the dealer. 
Tried a few motor factors, they all said dealer only. 

Had fast flashing indicators once. I'd been looking for a battery drain and removed fuses in a small, 1 strip fusebox located in where the jack is kept.

Turned out I'd put one back in the wrong slot, suppose if it had blown, it would have gave the same result.

The car had a factory fitted tow bar, suspect the fuse box might have been for this.

Has the car got a tow bar? 

You've probably already seen this, but I'll post it anyway.

For the vehicles without the EU specification (e.g. vehicle manufactured for the U.S. or Japanese market) and older vehicles that have not been given the type approval of the EC yet, a COC does not exist. Similarly, it is not possible to issue a COC for converted vehicles. A COC is only obtainable for passenger vehicles, motorcycles and light goods vehicles.

Got from here. https://www.eurococ.eu/en/certificate-of-conformity

There's a live chat option on the bottom right of the page, hopefully you'll be able to get help through that.

Don't think the Range Rover or Frontera would have used the CRD. Range Rover did have a VM engine at some point in the past, don't know about the Frontera.

Never done it on the Grand Voyager, but I used to use Landrover fuel filters on 90's Audi/vws as they were cheaper. I got the part number off the filter, and googled equivilent to get other part numbers which lead to the cheaper filters. Just checked ebay, cheapest oil filter's £3.86 delivered, fuel filter £10.32. Don't know how much cheaper you would get. 

LDV might be an option, but I know the injectors were different shaped so there may have been other differences. 

When the timing belt went on my first CRD, I got most of the parts to repair from these people.

http://www.vmdieselspecialist.com/

On the auto front, generally, if I'm accelerating, mines is the same. Backing off a fraction gets it to go up.