soupstone

 Not really, if it's got a factory fitted towbar, there's probably a small fuse box (can hold around 6-8 fuses) in where the jack is, tucked right up the back of the wheel arch. 

The thermostat is behind the engines on these.
A few of us have bodged a repair (when it's stuck open and the car doesn't warm up properly) by fitting a second thermostat in the top radiator hose. I've used one from a Renault 5, here's a great video by Andyb2000 showing how to do it.
 http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/fitting-second-thermostat-guide-26641/

 You'll need to find out whats causing the discharge. 
Do you have a multimeter? Set it to current, disconnect the battery and put it in series between the battery terminal and the disconnected terminal. 

Mines started around 600mA, dropping to 500mA after a couple of minutes. 

Start pulling fuses until you lose the majority of the current draw. For me, it was the radio getting a live feed constantly when it should only have the feed with the ignition on. Simple test to check this is see if the clock is on constantly even with the keys out. My windows also work all the time, even without the keys in. 

Short term, pulling the IOD fuse overnight would probably save having to disconnect the battery. 

Do you know when the fuel filter was last changed? If a while ago, it may be restricted under load, if recently, it may be drawing air as it's not tight enough. 

Think yours is at the rear, next to the fuel tank. Unplug the wiring and check for damage as well, which might point to a crack in the housing, which will allow air into the fuel system. 

Remove the filter bowl as well, to check there's not two sealing o-rings in there too. 

Quick and easy check, if even just to discount it. 


 

Look for documented proof of the timing belt having been changed. 
The injectors can be a nightmare to get out if it goes. 

7Jx16h2 5 stud, PDC 114.3 

In 6 years over 2 voyagers, the only issue I've had that you've mentioned is the handbrake. I always only patched mines up though. Cable here, cable there, when it goes on my current voyager, I'll just get everything done at the same time.

It took me ages to find our current one at a price I was willing to pay, and even then, it was a 500 mile round trip to pick it up. I felt I got a good deal on ours pricewise, and I'd viewed ones priced much higher that aren't a patch on it. 
 

Issues I've had are thermostat, battery drain and cutting out under acceleration. All fixed on my current voyager for under a tenner. 

Between here and chryslerforum.com, there's loads of info and helpful folks that will assist. 


 

When mines went, I got most of the parts I needed from here. 

 http://www.vmdieselspecialist.com/

 

Just a random thought, how much fuel is in the car?
I had a Frontera once, and eventually read some where that it initially would need over a quarter tank of fuel to get it started. This was after an engine replacement too. 

No idea why this should make a difference, but thought I'd mention it just incase. 

 What mileage is the car on? Having had the expense of a snapped belt on my first Grand Voyager (£1600 as I had to spend £400 on tools), I'd highly recommend doing it if it's due. 

 When I bought my 2.8, I asked the dealer if it had been changed. He didn't know so changed it before I picked it up. Also on around 105k. 


Just noticed your post in the newbie section saying it's a 2004, so as said, it's definately a belt. 
When I was looking, there was one dealer i visited told me it was a chain as well. 

Hello Keith, welcome to the forum.

I bought a 2.8 this year having previously owned the 2.5. 

There's a few things you might be aware of already due to having the petrol version.

On my 2.5, the timing belt went, so make sure that has been done or get it done.

If you can smell exhaust fumes/fuel inside the cabin with the blower on, chances are there's an injector leaking. The injectors can be really hard to get out.

Another issue can be the fuel filter housing. It can crack, draw air, leak into the connector and cause that to short out. A symptom of this is the engine cutting out, requiring you to pull over and restart the car.

The good news is, between here and chryslerforum.com, most things have been covered before.  

Hi, welcome to the forum.
If you re-post in the vehicle specific area for the Voyager 4th Generation, you'll probably get more responses.

My money would be on that the bottom of the radiator is full of sedement/blocked. 

To check, when it's up to temperature, try squeezing the top radiator hose. When this has happened to me in the past, this has been rock hard. 

Another thing is that the bottom of the radiator will be cold whilst it's really warm further up.

That's a bit harder to check though, due to the fans. I'm unsure if the ones on the voyager could be safely blocked to stop them turning or not. I suppose disconnecting them from a power supply should work, but if you are going to check this way, please be very careful and make sure you can't get hurt. 

Yes it is possible but it takes some major moding of the area, there is also the problem that the original radio communicates with the ECU via the bus and to get the radio to power on there is a relay that need shorting ( or run a separate power feed )

 Think this is what must have been done to mines at some point, think I'm needing to take the fuse box apart. Cheers. 

 I've had 2 that have had cutting out issues, luckily, both times, it's been down to the fuel filter not being tight enough, and it drawing in air.
The 2002 2.5 had the filter at the rear, our 2006 has it up in the engine bay.  

I think the wiring issue is caused by the housing cracking, which can let in air. It can also let out fuel, which causes the fault with the wiring. 

No, the steering wheel doesn't light up. 

 I'd be looking for more 12.4-12.8 on a good battery, with a charging voltage over 13.4v.
 I prefer mines charging at 14.4 though. 
My journeys are normally quite short too, 7-12 miles one way.

Here's a link to the locking kit and instructions, just incase. Think it's only needed if the belt had failed though. Handy for reference. 
 

http://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/prodpdf/vs4945.pdf

The guy that done the work to my last GV after the belt failed found it helpful. 

 

 What issues are you having? if you're suspecting injectors, have you tried a leak off test?

 Just checked mines, all 4 are 0.7 ohms too. 

 

I've tested glow plugs on ohms before, but never the injectors. 
Anyone I've ever known to suspect injector problems have had them checked by a diesel specialist. 

Have you taken readings from all 4? Were they all similar?

How's the temperature gauge sitting? 
I've had 2 now that sat about 1/4 even when driving for a while. 
The original thermostat was seized open, but fitting a second thermostat in the top radiator hose solved the problem. 

Have a look at the video by Andyb2000.

http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1425-25-crd-thermostat-sealed-unit-or-not/

 Last key and fob I got done was £150 where the guy came to me. He cut the key, supplied a new fob and reprogrammed a second fob that no longer worked. 
That was for a kia Cee'd

Quite like the look of the 300c, would REALLY love a hemi estate, but thats just a pipedream. 
 

 Bought our first GV in 2010 (2002 2.5 diesel) and had it for 5 years. 
Past it's best, we scrapped it and replaced it with an estate.
Lasted a year, we realised how much we missed our GV, so bought a 2006 2.8 at the start of the year. 

Differences between the two are this ones an auto, so I get a bit less MPG. As it's stow and go, the rear seats don't seem as good as the earlier one, but far more convenient. 

That apart, as I'd owned one previously, I fitted a second thermostat, added a resistor to the cold battery sensor so the battery charges at 14.4 v constantly and got the supplying garage to put a timing belt kit on it before I picked it up. All previous failures on my old one, mods courtesy of "Leedsman" on another forum.

It passed it's MOT a month or so ago with nothing needing done. Even the handbrake passed, which was always an issue on my first one. 

I've fitted a towbar and plan to get the autobox serviced as it's on 110k now and 10 years old.

Only fault at the moment is a constant live feed to the radio and electric windows. Due to this, the battery was discharging via the radio. I've disconnected the live feed to it so far, will eventually get round to taking the fuse box apart to see if there's anything amiss, or fit an isolator switch in the circuit so I can use the radio as normal without draining the battery. 

scotsman4th on the .com forum