mikebh8

I've got two negative replies so far, will keep you posted if anything comes up.

I don't know if is still available but you can try.
I typed "Chrysler delta breaking" on the search tab.
The website is:
 
http://www.partshark.co.uk/used-car-parts-breaking-vehicles/chrysler/delta/
 
If they don't deliver to Italy....if you want it delivered to my address, my mother comes in about three weeks from Prato for about a week, she can mail it to you from there...or I can post it from here.
 
Hope it helps.

HI All, very interested in possibly re badging mine but has any one check to see if this is legal in UK as with a new badge etc it will not agree with DVLA information held by them.

Sorry mikebh8, that was for skully 

Hi, I had a 99 grand voyager that had those symptoms... In my case was head gasket, the water was pushed into the manifold exhaust and eventually evaporated into the exhaust, I was putting 2 litres every few days. Plus oil in the expansion tank is a sign of head gasket failure.
 
You can try this:
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/272810410924?chn=ps&dispItem=1&adgroupid=43333907642&rlsatarget=pla-299844085363&abcId=1088846&adtype=pla&merchantid=101725210&poi=&googleloc=9045715&device=m&campaignid=805983114&crdt=0&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F710-134428-41853-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F272810410924%25253Fchn%25253Dps%252526dispItem%25253D1%2526itemid%253D272810410924%2526targetid%253D299844085363%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9045715%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D805983114%2526adgroupid%253D43333907642%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-299844085363%2526abcId%253D1088846%2526merchantid%253D101725210%2526gclid%253DCjwKCAjwlrnNBRBMEiwApKU4POCzoW_-yhyzUGAxuvFaXuDGZYjlNbfcr0GY6NFWPlUxT7uI9eT_cxoCLAMQAvD_BwE%2526srcrot%253D710-134428-41853-0%2526rvr_id%253D1301841868549
 
It worked on a Peugeot that I have and was throwing oil out in the engine bay.
 
Otherwise, find a different mechanic and do a gasket test, eventually a replacement.
Hope it helps.

Yeah I know what you mean about roundabouts... The IGO is really bad at updating quickly enough at roundabouts so it's not always clear which exit to take as the map sometimes hasn't caught up with the actual position of the car!
 
I'm not sure I can be bothered to route the unit as it's too slow. I have used APK files before now side loaded, and that gets around the android version and tablet problem for some apps, but again a painful experience... I'm using a Garmin in the corner of the windscreen like you know for long journeys for the very same reasons.

Hi @@frankiep, on the other side you should have the fog light, I don't encourage you to replace it with a reverse light as the rear fog light is road requirement in many countries.
I'd follow @@Andrewgrale's suggestion. What I use are the led number plate lights, just so you make sure are waterproof.
 
Hope it helps.

Chrysler stipulate using only one battery instead of two ( ill dig it up from the manual when i get home) but I couldn't really comment on why.
 
Not to long back I had a few issues regarding the fob locking/ unlocking and it working at different distances. Turned out to be the battery - well that's all i changed and it fixed my problems.
 
Haha, yeah I've heard about that trick. Apparently there is method to the madness, regarding that trick. 

Or does it have too low a viscosity oil in there, if it's ok on start up till the oil thins and the perceived pressure drops. Had it on an Impreza quite a few years ago, not quite the same as the oil pressure light would come on when starting hot and take a while to go out, soon swapped it back to Mobil 1!

...you're right there isn't one... sad, anyway, try posting on other forums, in my case grand voyager 4th generation, explain first why you're there and I'm sure someone will give you answers.
Good luck.

I don't owe a PT cruiser, however I it helps: there could be blockage of debris in there, I once found plumber's white tape inside a tiny hole and around the fred outside that connection, try flushing the system and replace the liquid( as the mechanic probably did only top up) What about the accessories belt, does your battery charge OK, you should get 14. something volts, it could be loose but you would here it.
 
Hope it helps.

Hi, if Jonnoj's advice doesn't help try to see the wires going through the door to inside the car. Alarm beeping when armed it means a door/s are open, of you have a wire or a set of wires that became faulty and they touch intermittently you will get those errors and the battery will drain.
Plus the previous owner knows more than he tells, new alternator, new battery and knowing about the fuse... to me indicates the fault was inspected before, when you went see it, did you find it with the engine running?
 
Hope it helps.

Quick update
 
the amp is in the rear headlining , there is a single fine black power wire to it
there is no wire like this from the radio plug or the plugs to the amp
 
so there prob is a relay ill rewire it from the aux lead
 
thanks for all your help

Just both one for £55 delivered

Hi, happy to hear is sorted, please mark it as answered for future viewers.

Ok found the fault 3 injectors was knackered! So went and replace all 4 today also changed engine oil and filter as I think diesel been leaking.pressured system and hoary it alive! Thank you all for your help much appreciated.

Hi, just a thought, from your post indicates that you probably recently bought it..."i am beginning to think it was a bad idea buying a chrysler"
It happen to me when I first bought one.
Please see pictures attached to understand what I'm about to say:
for some reason Chrysler added an option on the ignition where it gives the driver the opportunity to extract the key with the engine running...sometimes is good but when it comes to turn off the engine and lock the car...if not enough attention is given to in what position the key was when removed, the second ACC is still on.
Where the red circle is it used to be a push button which will block or unblock the key to go to zero position.
Where the orange line is, is there where the key should be so all the electrics are off.
the blue line to the left of the orange one it keeps the car "alive", and with the key on the right of the orange line it lets the driver remove the key while engine on.
I removed mine (on both, the previous one and the current one) and never had problems since... Also, when the key removed and the driver door is opened, if you hear a buzz it means the ignition is still "on", even if the key is not in.
 
 
Hope it helped.

I can on one of our three, but the others only come out where the orange line is. But it caused problems when we first got it till I figured out all the way back was wrong and left lots of stuff live.

I am sorry you feel that way about the forum, I found and still find very useful information on here.
Faults that mechanics can't diagnose or even faults that may appear once in a life time of a car.
In my defence I had a weird working schedule which gave me no time to get online.
For what it's worth I apologise in behalf of other users, sometime (in my case) if I'm not sure of something I don't like interfering as I let someone else that knows more replying to that topic instead of giving useless or ambiguous suggestions. It might be that with your topic...
I hope you will ask again as the answer received might help someone else and so on.
 
However glad you got your car sorted.

Hi, I know for sure that 2.5 and 2.8 are identical, engine wise and accessories like alternator and others. The only difference is on the pistons and the parts related to them.
If you have a VM engine (it says on it if it is), mercedes sprinter uses the same engine and Alfa Romeo use it on one of their models.
Hope it helps.

Hi folks! I'm new to the site. I own a 2010 Chrysler.
Hoping we can be a happy group members and sharing the same interest here as i do .
Thanks for letting me join.
Kind regards 
james
 

EGR is at back of engine, need to remove wiper tray to get at it. Follow the stainless pipe from under inlet manifold at front of engine, it goes around back, battery side and joins to EGR. While you are there check operation of turbo waste-gate actuator to see its working, inclusive of rubber tube-work incase of blockage. Once you are learned the job come and do mine...

If the selector is on windscreen, as it is on your photo, or foot + windscreen, the system will switch the AC on as it thinks you want to demist the screen.
 
Turn it further round to say face and foot vents, and it should click out the AC.
 
If it all goes off when you turn the climate power off then all's good. But there is another problem that occasionally occurs. The fan auto speed reg packs up so the fan is on full with no control, and when you switch off the fan stays on full and goes into recirc mode.

So just to confirm to everybody I have now repaired my vehicle using a gearbox from a 3.3 petrol voyager. I purchased a 52 plate with head gasket failure for £200.The car had done 68k with one owner and full service history. I drove the vehicle for 36 miles without fault and if im honest it was a shame to break the car as it drove perfectly. I figured for £200 I would have a go and see if it would work. Well the answer is yes all though there is 2 slight modifications you have to do.
 
1: On the 2.8 gearboxes you will find 2 bolt holes under the rear diff, the 3.3 only has one and its in the wrong place. Easy to sort just alloy weld and make second hole. (I suppose you could just ignore it because its only one bolt but I like things to be right)
2: the hoses at the front as Neil said are incorrect. Rather than using hose I simply unscrewed the fitting and replaced with the correct fitting from my 2.8 gearbox. Fits perfect.
 
I did use the torque converter from my 2.8 but looking the 3.3 would fit no worries. I have driven the car around 50 miles and all is perfect. So how much has it cost for this gearbox repair:
 
Scrap car £200
Gearbox oil and filter £36
total £236
 
But then guess what, as I have bought a full car I can now either break the full car which I haven't time to do or sell to scrap yard. I have chosen the later and they are collecting it and giving me £125. So this gearbox repair has cost me £111.
 
I did look at the internals prior to fitting and can also confirm they are the same. hope this helps somebody else in the future as on my quest to find a gearbox everybody told me it couldn't be done and that a gearbox is £500. Well they were wrong

I had a one year old battery and excluding that from the picture, I replaced sensors and injectors ( from another car for testing), eventually I bought a new battery and it started first time. I believe is the battery. Please update the thread once it is solved.