gordy

A very recent fault this one on here and we seem to have narrowed it down to the Turbo Actuator. What's happening is the actuator operates the waste gate on the turbo and whether the actuator diaphragm is goosed or the hose to it from boost side of turbo is blocked with carbon, the Waste Gate is not operating. So hence we have over boost on booting it, ECU operates the management light, power is reduced and code P0235/7 is recorded. P0069 is probably over boost pressure. Sounds too good to be true but hope it works for you. If not record your answer on here. I have same problem at moment but working on it is a problem. Mine started shutting down quite recently but a new boost/temp sensor sorted that out. The problem is getting an Actuator as their normally sold with a turbo.

I have had P0235 for ages now. Yes Boost pressure related.

There is another answer worth checking before replacing the Turbo actuator. Check the hose to actuator is clear and not blocked with carbon. Also check the tapping into the boost manifold of Turbo where the hose fits on is also clear. EGR blocks so why shouldn't this small bore pipework block as well. Gosh we've came a long way forward in answer to this fault.

Is it from engine compartment after shutting down. Lift bonnet after shutting and check.

You don't need to shut down engine and restart to clear the fault and light. When limp mod comes on just lift foot off accelerator slightly and it will keep going, full power returns in about 30 seconds. It's a b#gger when you want to accelerate past another car, but it can be done, just don't boot it so hard.

A Chrysler garage quoted me £750 in 2013 but got it done for just under £500 (belt & wheels) as Andy says. You can buy the locking pin kit on fleebay for around £25. Time for job is 4 Hours. But wasn't very happy with the garage afterwards when they told me there was a coolant drip leak near where they were working. Had an idea it was the thermostat housing to head joint. Rad weld sorted that though.

Give system a reset just incase. Neg terminal off battery for half hour.

These are wiring at back of lights at plug and where they go on bulbs. Near Side. White/Light brown - Brake Light. (1). White/Dark Green - Indicator. (2). Black/Green - Earth for 1 + 2. White/Light Green - Reverse. White/Yellow - Fog Light Earth. White/Dark Brown - Fog Light + Tail Light. Offside. White/Light Brown - Brake Light. (1). White/Dark Brown - Indicator (2). Black - Earth for 1 + 2. White/Light Green - Reverse. White/Yellow - Fog Light Earth. White/Orange - Side + Fog Light. Hope this helps...

Age of your car Deano ?

Seen a Voyager for sale with the bench seat in the middle and it made me wonder...

Probably because that's the highest wear point on the tank sender. Some people tend to only fill their tanks to between 1/4 and 1/2. So with little fuel in the tank the fuel sloshes about more and the sender finger wears away the same spot on the resistor board.

ABS light on usually means front ABS sensors need renewed. Course they are at back too but sensor and castle ring covered from elements there. For by front sensors clean the castle segments on the driveshaft ring which will be badly rusted.

Yip looks like a mounting position for summit.

Or cable adjustment. Maybe loose links or levers. Check it over.

EGR gas supply is from the exhaust outputs of the 4 cylinders. Through supply via EGR then goes into the intake manifold where it is mixed. So for any ports/holes into the cylinder head for a special EGR valve there would need to be 4 x 2.....Kinda silly eh...

Does the car lock via the key in the door. What happens.

Someone recently had a problem of vibration and found it was engine mountings.

I would go with Bignev here. I had a look on fleebay regarding gaskets and as for cylinder head ones there's dozens. So which ones are good and which ones are useless copies made in China. Payen I would say are the best but possibly dearer. As for prices, £39 - £149 for same part. Minefield or what.

All I can say is Reboot it. Pigs might fly.

Rear engine oil seal. Has been brought to light by quite a few people on her. If it happens to leak, just after your clutch is done, gearbox is out again.

Its like mine that I have had for 3 years now. Changing the gearbox oil/fluid which is ATF helped it slightly. I'm thinking its weak fingers on the clutch but I'll wait.

Might be a blocked filter or one way valve in the line.

Initially spells there's not enough coolant in the engine. Or air lock.

Not sure what's been done here but you've certainly got a few circuits trying to engage. Sounds like you've got earthing wires. Have you checked the wiring from module in passenger side front wheel well to the main loom, as there's a known spot where it goes over the inner arch. Otherwise remove the module and check for moisture inside.

Well one of my two of my assumptions may be right. So what have wee. Now firstly the trans fluid must be at the correct level to start. P0891 TCM power relay sensor circuit high. P0891 Transmission Relay is always on.. This means Transmission Control Module senses there's more than 3.0 volts at transmission control relay output terminal of the TCM prior to the TCM energizing the transmission control relay. Causes to this: Intermittent problem with wiring and connectors. Transmission control relay stuck closed. Transmission control relay control circuit short to voltage. Transmission control relay output circuit short to voltage. Transmission control Module faulty. So looking at about what have we first check, stuck relay and earthed wiring (heard these two before somewhere). If not maybe a Module..