gordy

Same here..But Merry Merry Christmus..

7 hours labour thats a joke..

Ì'm kind of wondering if this is something to do with connections. In this case due to two or more wires not joined correctly due to dirt, it causes a voltage drop due to the resistance on the alarm circuit and is picked up by it.

Yes sounds like webasto heater. Èither tighten clip  and recheck leak. Replace clips. Or cut out leaking part of hose. Clamp hose to stop coolant coming out on repair.

Hi there, just wondering if I'm on right car here as I thought all cars only had 2 wheels to a handbrake. Handbrake at front, ha, think I'll pass on this one. 

Now there is a reason for the handbrake problem on this car and I'm surprised its not been mentioned on here, forby Me. Normal cars with handbrake cited between the two front seats have the cable routed below where it's connected up to a "T" piece. Two Equal lengths of cable then carry on to left and right rear drums on most cars take note.

Now in the Chrysler there is not equal lengths as one cable, left side, goes straight to left rear. Other cable has a elbow bend on it. Its this elbow that causes the problem. Pull on the handbrake if you please and you loose part of your brake pull because of this. Answer is to leave left cable slacker than right so drums get equal pull. (Might drive some people mad this answer). 

How about the Vacuum thats needed to operate the servo..

Many sensors and the like work with between 1v and 6v as the ECU/computors like low voltages..

When booting it your engine has to have the correct mixture to get the excelleration..Not enough air will give you the smoke you have..So could be a dirty sensor not getting right mass of air reading. And don't forget the EGR should be closed on booting it, or you'll get smoke. 

Not or difficult starting. Cutting out especially when taking power over certain speed. I take it you've checked the fuel rail bypass/pressure valve is behaving itself. Do an injectors leakoff test while your at it.

It might be the case here that if the EGR is stuck in a certain position it will log that position up and notify the ECU. But is it the EGR at fault though ?

I know what Irish dancing is like as well as this swinging around a maypole holding ribbons is like too. But i still have yet to see someone dancing around the steering wheel of their car. Oh wait haven't had my pills yet...

Was 2012 when I got my last Voyager, not got one at present. Sadly missed. Back then I got my belt kit replaced for £478 from back street garage. Got a quote from the  all singing and dancing main dealer at time and they wanted £750. Time for job was 4hrs. So your price sounds good.

Well its interesting to know that it happens with other cars as well. There's a bit unclarity with your writing as you say it does't stop so is this a loss of power  fault. Well anyway I'll add MAP as this  when faulty either drops power when asking for it. Or shuts engine down. Take it out of engine, sits right on top. Normally caked in the black stuff, but how much black stuff can make it fail. 

Looks kinda like earthing fault there like wires coming together that shouldn't be. How about below fuse box area, think thats a known place where witches brew there soup. 

Are you taking out the whole light unit from front end after removing the 2 or 3 machine screws that secures it to cross member. You  are Voyager I take it. 

Well I would expect that if you stay in middle England I might be just a case of their next door or down the road. I'm talking here about getting a spring made in this country, or they might have one in stock, after handing over the old one at the desk. Price is up to you of course. I reconn you may have to double that though for both springs. My Voyager went to breakers with 2 good springs.

Check this wee info out here on you tube. 

Chrysler Grand Voyager 2.8 crd bad starting/cutting out at 2k rpm in "drive" part 2. Part 1 avail of course. 

By Sandy Anderson published 26th July 2018. Ideal plugin's.

The other problem is the Turbo actuator, this is what gives you the varios boost pressures. Its down back of engine, thats the problem. Operated by a little piston that gets its operating pressure (boost) from inlet manifold, cylinder head side of turbo. 

From watching your vid, while your attempting start, the fuel is running out of the valve and down the tube quite readily..But on idling its only dripping..I'd say the valves internal spring has weakened..

What have you got. Rear door doesn't open by the  small struts either side of door, mechanism is in roof. 

MAP is the boost pressure sensor, the one that tells the engine brain what boost the turbo is making  so that you can get up that hill. If not enough pressure  it shuts engine down. Only thing is you could be overtaking at the time. It's situated on top of the  inlet manifold left side. Clean with care, better replaced. 

Mind check the MAP atop engine on inlet manifold that its not choked with crud and letting it do its job.

Have you checked the injector spill pipes for them all leaking the same. Maybe ones caught the virus and left backdoor open. 

We don't want to jùmping up and down and shouting "It's the high pressure pump"..Silly question but is it being driven. Woodruff key etc.

How about the fuel pressure bypass valve on the fuel rail. However your saying you have no pressure or fuel in pipe between tank and high pressure pump is that right.