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Afternoon all. I thought I would share a bit of a story that happened to me this weekend, in the hope that it will help some others if the same thing happens to them. The model it concerns is any 300C with the Mercedes 3 litre V6 diesel. I'm guessing the newer models with the VM diesel will be totally different. So there we are, on the way to Wakefield from Essex where we live, merrily trotting along the motorway. All of a sudden the dashboard starts to chime repeatedly (as if i've left the headlights on and got out), the engine cuts out completely, and on the dashboard are the engine management light, and the red lightening bolt, with a reverse bracket either side (see attached photo). We coast to a stop onto the hard shoulder, and i try to restart the car. It turns over and over, but refuses to fire up. The missus gets on the phone to the RAC, and we're told there's roughly a two hour wait, so this gives me a bit of time to do some Googling before the patrol arrives. Now then, if you refer to the handbook, it clearly states (even in the diesel supplement) that the lightening bolt light indicates there is a fault with the "Electronic Throttle Control". This is utter nonsense. As it turns out, on the diesel models only, this light refers to a fault with either the Swirl Flap Motor, or the Turbo Actuator. Annoyingly this isnt listed in any of the handbooks that come with the car. Poor show Chrysler! Whenever you turn the ignition on in the car, you can see the arm of the turbo actuator raise up. So if this is the problem, then its very easy to diagnose. I tried this little test, and sure enough, the turbo actuator arm wasn't popping up when my wife turned the ignition on, so naturally I thought this was the problem. Sadly I was wrong. What had happened to my car was this.... Over time, the seal around the air intake on the front of the turbo degrades. This allows a small amount of oil to drip onto the swirl flap motor, which is situated directly below. (very poor design). This oil had eventually seeped inside the motor, causing it to short out. This short had instantly popped fuse number 15 under the bonnet, which in turn had caused the engine to shut down while doing 70mph to protect itself. I didn't have the handbook in the car with me sadly, so searching on the internet just have me fuse diagrams of the petrol models, which on those shows its for the injectors. Again as it turns out, fuse 15 in the front fuse box does completely different things on the diesel models. It protects the following.... A/C Clutch, A/C Pressure regulator, Crankcase Vent Heater, EGR Valve, Engine Control Module, Fuel Pump, Glow Plug Module, Swirl Flap Motor, Oxygen sensors.. So I replaced the blown fuse with a spare 20 amp, and the car fired straight up. It was now in limp mode, and showing the EML and Lightening light, but it was drive-able up to about 80 mph, albeit a bit slow getting there. By this time, the RAC man had arrived. Now there is nothing worse that someone interfering when a pro is at work, so when he arrived, I left him to it, and he plugged the diagnostics in, and it threw up a ton of errors all related to things connected to this fuse. All except the swirl flap motor. He was a bit confused at first, but then I mentioned that I think it might be the swirl flap motor. He hooked up all his testing gear to it, ran a load of tests, and sure enough confirmed to me that the motor was dead. He then cleared the ECU codes, started the car, and only then did it throw up a specific Swirl Flap related error. HE gave me some spare fuses, and after a quick road test, we were on our merry way albeit in limp mode. Now to fixing it. The cheapest place I could find to supply and fit a new motor quoted £575 plus VAT. The motor is just over £100, but the labour involved is a joke. Anything that is situated inside the VEE of the engine (Swirl Flap Motor, Oil Cooler) etc needs major open heart surgery to fix it. Annoyingly both the motor and the cooler seals have known faults, so they couldn't be in a worse place! If you fancy forking out all that money to have the motor replaced, then that is no doubt the best way in the long run, however there is a quick fix for £1.99 and YES it does work perfectly. Get yourself some 4K7 resistors off of ebay, they are £1.99 for 50. Remove the engine cover, then remove the intake pipe that runs from the airbox to the front of the turbo. Right below the turbo, you will see a black box. This is the offending motor. On the right of the motor is a multi plug held in with a grey clip. Remove the metal bracket above the plug, and pop the plug off. Grab a resistor, and bend the legs in such a way that they will fit snugly into the two centre holes in the plug. Theres 4 in total. Once you have put the resistor in, and you can confirm its in there properly. Tape it up with electrical tape so the resistor wont fall out. Replace the metal bracket, and the air intake pipe, leaving the plug sticking up so you can get to it again in the future if you need to. Then start up the car, and stand back in amazement as both the engine management light and the lightening bolt lights extinguish, and the car comes back out of limp mode. Take the car for a drive, and you will see that it drives as good as new. What you have done here, is fool the car into thinking the swirl flap motor is working again. WHen in fact its now disconnected. You shouldnt notice any difference in performance or fuel economy at all. The emissions may be up slightly when cold is all. So to summarise, if your car cuts out with the lightening bolt on. 1) Coast to a stop 2) Curse, swear, have a fag, but don't despair 3) Check fuse 15 in the front fuse box, and replace 4) Start the car and drive home in limp mode - The car will do upto 80mph 5) Order your resistors from Ebay, making sure they are the 4K7 type 6) Still use your car while you are waiting for them to be delivered, remembering that it wont pull away as quick as usual 7) Fit the resistor at the weekend in the rain 8) Stand back, chest puffed out, hands on hips, telling the neighbours you've just saved almost 700 quid :-)

Yes Nello, it is a Limited, cream leather interior, heated seats but not electric which I find strange, changed the cabin filter today the one that came out was FULL!!! huge sunroof which also was unexpected, I thought it was just a panoramic roof! My 500X returned 48mpg in town driving and Yes sport mode is entertaining, have you found the 'G' meter?? Sorry the interior photos are poor.

Hi, hopefully this car is going to be mine! The low mileage is due to it being a Guernsey car, so low miles but perhaps a bit more clutch abuse. I've put a deposit on it, just waiting now for the dealer to get a UK registration & MOT for it. I would say it hasn't seen many harsh winters and salty roads etc., however I suppose it has lived in a coastal environment as Guernsey is so small you can't really get away from the sea. I couldn't find any corrosion though, there's a tiny mark on the n/s/r bumper up where it meets the wing and signs of it being stood about (leaves & cobwebs around the under bonnet scuttle area etc) but other than that the exterior is lovely, the wheels & interior are pretty much immaculate. As a long time Lancia fan & owner of an original Delta this one will be getting the re-badge treatment to remove the C-word!

Electric Windows seem to be a bit of a bone of contention. Don't let a seller tell you "It's probably just a fuse" if one of your windows doesn't work, there are no fuses. I have spoken to a couple of other Voyager users and they say the same. Keep the window tracks oiled so there is no resistance for window going up and down. Seems once the tracks either end dry up, the motors slow down and that's when problems can start. I use some 3 in one oil, not WD40, and my once slow windows now nip up and down. Just a thought!!

You are right the handbrake does not auto tighten. there is a blanking grommet in the bottom of the rear disk back plate that allows access to the adjuster. with the wheel off the ground tighten each one until the wheel binds with the handbrake two clicks up. the hand brake on GV's is poor at the best of times so don't expect too much. The cable in the cabin should not need tightening and definitely shouldn't be used to adjust the brakes.

Hi, welcome Not sure if there is a buyer guide, but mechanically the car is similar to a Fiat Bravo II and both seem fairly reliable.The engines are used across a wide range of FCA products from Alfas to Fiat 500s and seem fairly robust and economical. The car is made in Italy but do not expect a thrill a minute Integrale experience, this Delta is more refined and almost an Italian Rover or Audi. The main issue is that people, even car buff do not have a clue what it is although passengers in mine seem quite impressed once inside. Have a search on Instagram for how good they do look inside and out. That 'identity crisis' does make the car hard to price. There are only 900 or so on British roads so some are priced on how they look which can be high (see the £4k one on ebay, looks great) or quite cheaply as there is no real demand. At auction they will typically sell for around £1500. All cars are around 8 years old so expect some wear although mine at 123k miles is holding up rather well. Budget £300 or so for a cambelt at least. Living with it is not a straight forward as Golf, indicator click is stupidly quiet, you have to fold the rear seat down to remove the parcel shelf as the tailgate is smaller than the shelf, no obvious place to put glasses or phone. The feedback from the road is set more toward isolation that the involvement of an Alfa, not as crisp and direct, but more refined. The radio is a let down, trim can be plasticy in places too. On the plus side the driving position is good, engines have decent poke, the body shape still looks crisp and modern and owners of similar sized Mercs, Audis and BMWs do not have a clue what has zoomed past them. Get a remap and take on bigger cars, readily available as the engines are Alfa/Fiat. Parts cheap too for the mechanical stuff, just don't damage the body or interior. The one pictured is a base spec with an even more unloved semi auto gearbox with high is miles, at auction it would have been around £1k, OK for basic transport with a good discount but if the autobox goes wrong few will know how to fix, and probably due a belt change. Now is a good time to get a Delta, market depressed, little demand, confused identity, but reliable basics, distinctive looks, nice colour combinations, smart interior, no signs of rust and prices rock bottom. Seek the best specced one you can find and haggle. What is there not to like!

Got home from the rig and the nice people at Swansea have written to me. So right now I am the proud first ever owner of AP12 VXC! Weirdly the V5 says 'first used elsewhere in the UK', which - if you've been following this - we know is B-S & is what caused all the faffing about in the first place; Guernsey isn't in the UK or EU. Never mind, tomorrow will transfer the GAS plate over & that is finally that!

My Saturday was full on....

Hi . I’m the lucky person who now owns Mikeys Delta. Just got home from collecting it .Mikey has maintained and looked after D3LTX. I have a file 2 inches thick listing everything he’s done .Really nice drive and a credit to him.

flip sake, thought it was just me. Just wasted half a bottle of aftershave.

Hi all, I managed to fix the issue and hope that it will help some of you in the future to save some stress and money. The problem was bad ground wire G300 that lives under the carpet next to the B pillars on each side of the car. You must remove plastic covers and lift the carpet, undo the wire and give it a good clean. I found this video for similar problem, that might help you to picture it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSEAVnWP5X0 Hopefully this is it and I wont have this problem any more.

Hi Sorry for loooooooooong time to answer. If you wont to go lowered on active susp. Just replace springs nad thats all. Dont touch anything on cpu. Replace spring and njoy http://i68.tinypic.com/2quhh5k.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/2a5fapz.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/15xpe6o.jpg

Just to confirm got my Delta services and MOT by my local indie. Sailed through MOT:) Sump plug and washer from mito from Alfa workshop was fine. Spark plugs were also right, car feels a lot better a lower revs. Glad I got it done, thanks for the advice chaps

Fixed at last! Got a new siren/control unit off eBay different part number but just the tone of the beep seems slightly different £80 as opposed to about £200 from Fiat, didn't want to risk £200 on something that may not have fixed it! The reason for failure of these units seems to be neither battery failure nor damp. The unit is sealed against damp but this has the side effect of holding in very small amounts of corrosive fumes from the charging of the batteries and this corrodes the circuit board. That's the theory I found on the net and seems plausible

May I add something here after readig it....Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh F/n Helllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll....Sorry....

Thanks again everybody - such a knowledgeable forum!! The cars been running absolutely fine since the repair and my paranoia has also calmed down ha! So far so good x

Hopefully this will be of some use to someone if the same happens, which sadly I believe it a common thing . I've had the resistor in place for a week now, and its been working perfectly. About 300 miles covered faultlessly. It was playing on my mind about the whole thing being held together with electrical tape, so I decided to buy the ready made part from the chaps at www.custom300cshop.co.uk Its the second time Ive used them, and they are really helpful, with fast deliveries. The part I ordered was the swirl flap emulator http://www.custom300cshop.co.uk/chrysler300c_swirlportemulator.html Its basically a resistor fitted into a purpose made, and very high quality plastic casing, which fits perfectly into the swirl flap plug. This should take the worry out of the electrical tape melting or degrading over time. It was £40, which some may say is a lot for a bit of plastic, however the fact that they have had these specially made, they fit perfectly, and they are a damn sight cheaper than a new swirl flap motor, I think its good value for money. Pictures below if you fancy a look. Cheers Matt.

So garage have fitted 4 new injectors, and it so far so good. They have tested it and cannot replicate the cutting out. I have only driven it short distance, but it starts well (when previously it didn't) and it hasn't cut out, when previously it might have. If anything changes I will get back on here, but for anyone else who is experiencing poor starting and cutting out here is the order of events for me: Fuel FilterPressure relief valveFuel filter housing and wiring loomPressure sensor on fuel railInjector testingNew injectors My car has been renamed Triggers Broom!

https://www.parkers.co.uk/chrysler/delta/hatchback-2011/16-m-jet-sr-nav-5d/owner-reviews/20180112065355/?utm_campaign=parkers-owner-reviews&utm_source=publication-confirmation-email&utm_medium=email

This forum has proved indispensable for a Delta owner. I had the misfortune of a snapped passenger side spring coil, originals come in pairs with a hefty £300 price tag. I am going for an advice I got from the forum for a suspension lowering eipache kit been backed and shipped and hopefully by next week will be fitted OK. I will have surplus driver side and the 2 back ones old and bit rusty of course (11 reg) but can solve a problem and get a Delta back on the road. I can find some space in the garage or the attic to keep these in case a mate in the forum needs them, can ship for what it costs. Do you think we should set a spares thread....

Thank you for al your help I have hopefully now fixed the transmission relay problem code p0888 fingers crossed

Okay, carried on and prised out the Bush, it had to come out one way or another, and with that out the sub frame was lowered and the Arm came out. Old Bush off, new one on, well on once I spent a long time cleaning the inside of it out of over-rubberisation (note to self - do not but cheap eBay replacement parts), and now all back together . Now to address the other thing it failed on, smoky engine bay .

Great review!!!!

Hi all Had these made by Vistaprint, well chuffed!!

Well I did a quick check over and apart from the Radio (which can be a bit iffy anyway) everything worked, i.e. heated seat, lights, windows, wipers etc. After connecting the Battery, I put the key in the ignition and the Speedo and Rev counter did a full sweep, which is what happens when trying to start when the Battery gets flat, only this time it cranked well and started straight away. The Heater Plug light didn't come on, but it started fine all the same. I was going to try putting the 'Fuse' back in, but it was a lovely afternoon and I didn't have the nerve to upset the locals , however I will go out over the next few days, and try it putting it back in when I find a quiet spot. I'm still wading through the mass of light bedtime reading a.k.a the links to the manuals

Just adding a note on my experience with the springs. When I bought my car, 2012 1.4 Multiair, in 2016 it had had the offside rear one replaced. The nearside rear duly broke in 2017 and since I needed to get it back on the road quickly I purchased replacement from Chrysler but at the same time ordered a full set of the Eibach springs since I knew sooner or later based on the comments on this Forum that I'd have a problem with the fronts. They were being quoted as out of stock at Eibach at the time hence the decision to get one from the local Chrysler dealer. The Eibach springs took several weeks to arrive but they did eventually (£124 for the four) and since then have been sitting in the garage but sure enough a couple of weeks ago the front nearside spring broke so this gave me the opportunity to replace all four with the Eibachs. I've attached some photos to show before and after and I think it's clear there's a definite lowering. Unfortunately I wasn't organised enough to actually measure anything! They are noticeably stiffer and I'll keep an eye on them to see if they lower any more as they settle in.

Hi guys & gals. First time owner of a Chrysler. Brought a 2007 Grand Voyager Executive CRD auto 84’000 miles 4 months ago. Learnt a lot from the forum before joining today. Already done the button mod. Thanks leedsman. Really enjoying ownership so far. Nice big barge to drive. When I brought the car it had a Exide EB741 battery on (unknown age but looked old), worked fine till it got cold. Decided to buy a RedTop. Mistake. Yes it had great cranking power, but drained heavily when not used for a couple of days. I borrowed a high tech amp meter which recorded over a long weekend of no use. Car was only drawing minimal ma consistently. Yet my battery tester had it down to 40% charge. When I charge the RedTop up to 100% and leave disconnected, it retains charge. Apparently the self discharge when connected is common on these red tops. Quality is not what they used to be. In the end gave up and brought a Advanced 096R XD battery for £80 delivered. This battery is perfect. No self discharge and plenty of power to spin the crd over on cold mornings. Volt meter reads 12.8v after leaving all weekend. Result. Sorry for the long first post, but wanted to share my experience. I like to do my own servicing and repairs, and pretty handy with electrics and fault finding on management systems. Hope I can contribute to the forum as much as it’s helped me already. Paul.

Deltamike - I honestly think the Delta's lights are really good - and that's with Halogen Dipped beam.............. you should try driving a Fiat Coupe at night!

A very happy and peaceful Christmas to all the Delta drivers! May all your problems be little ones

Well done Mike!!! Everything comes to he who waits

Hi Nico, and welcome to the club! The Navi unit will require the loom as the connections will be different. Unfortunately most used units don't come with any wiring, so you'll find it difficult to install. My advice would be to go for a good quality branded aftermarket unit instead as it will be much more straight forward to fit.

Looks great Tim! That sits nicely even without the bumper cut out.

They're just adhesive, so they will stick to the strip.

Ok It seams to work after reseting of the module. To reset it you need to disconect positive lead from batterry for 10min. I hava also checked IOD fuse (M13) and give it a clean. Aparemtly it is the software failour and it happens now anf them.

As long as it is thin enough to flow at low temperatures and thick enough to perform satisfactorily at high temperatures where you live. 6L of 5W30 will perform correctly up to -25 degrees C and in 75 big round years of driving I've never seen those temps. Manky filter-change it !

Well, going to see one tomorrow. 1.6MJ SR, 42k on a 12 plate, private sale.

Hi there, Unfortunately this can be a long list of problems, there are lots of posts on here and on other forums and I did a whole video dedicated to it: https://youtu.be/ucfZfV1cNng When you say it won't run for hours what does it do, dashboard light up, you hear the starter motor turning the engine over it just never fires? When it does that if you waggle your foot on the accelerator will it catch and start? Also, the assumption is the cut out is when you do hard acceleration/over 3.5k rpm? That's the common failure. So back to the list: Fuel filter - when was it last changedFuel - what fuel do you buyFuel - put a diesel cleaner/additive through it sometimes helpsIf the filter has been changed recently, get the filter assembly checked to make sure its sealed properly, has an o-ring. Worth getting it changed againIs it a front or rear fuel filter model? The 05 has different designs, if front check the primer pump and pump it to get it started, if it goes soft it means potentially air/leaking(Those are just a few that popped into my head as I type, there are lots of posts on the matter! Engine warning light is a newer one that hasn't been seen in many cases, the fact that the garages plugged in and got no codes means they're not using the right code readers, these need very expensive/special readers to read the Chrysler codes, so the fact the engine light is on but they see no codes means their reader isn't good enough for the job!

My bad, the license on one of the components ran out (but didn't alert me!)

Yes, you can pull off the washer bottle neck, and I have also taken off the cross brace strut. It's a pain for sure, but I've done that change 2 or 3 times.

The dreaded seat! I really wish it was sliding like the other versions

For anyone else out there looking to do the same. Here’s a good video for anyone looking to do the same: https://youtu.be/jdie4bJQGWYI think it’s in Spanish though, but good that you can see how to. He’s used 41mm festoon led’s.

Hi, I have a price: 41, 48. They do want payment in advance... So, if you think of a solution. I can only assume they will ask for an uk credit or debit card, they do take payments over the phone or someone can go in the office and order the part. Let me know what you think.

Hi, I got through the local main dealer, it moved from Chrysler Westover...to Jeep Westover( they changed name and location). I am waiting for a price from him as the system wasn't loading fast enough. If you wish to contact them, you have to say it is a right hand side driver, they will ask that along with a number plate or chassis number(don't use the chassis number as it comes up left hand drive..if anyone that reads this message could post their number plate would be easier for the guy to find the right part...it should be only one part coming up but the guy at the phone said it comes up with more models. I'll let you know what the price is soon as he contacts me.

Hi Lindzy and welcome along ! If there's 84k miles on the pump and you have no evidence that it has been changed in the cars lifetime, I would take the opportunity to do it now, as it would be at least 5 years old now ???? The reason that most garages recommend a pump change is because most are ran by the timing belt now and most timing belts are now in kit form and include new guide bearings, belt stretcher and some include the pump and gasket, when the new belt is fitted the new stretcher puts a different tension on the belt (because it is new) and this may be more than the old belt, which is a different push or pull on the old water pump (if it hasn't been replaced) what often happens is, that 3 or 4 months after you replace the timing belt and don't renew the pump, the pump begins to leak because of the different tension Apologies for the rambling response, your eyes have probably glazed over

Hi, did you get this problem sorted at all? If you didnt, then its an easy fix. Open the bonnet and, and find the washer bottle. Next to that, bolted to the drivers side wing, you will find a black box. Unplug the box, and hey presto, the fault will vanish. It will also cure a few other faults, such as indicators that miss a click, rear wipers wiping on their own, reversing sensors firing up when your driving forward. The box is the HID translator module. All it does is let the ECU know when a headlight bulbs blows. If you can live without that function then you can cure all the rest!! The HID module develops a fault, and effects lots of other things down the line.

Update time!! - I fixed it! After studying the circuit diagrams, I pulled the connector off of the underside of the fuse/relay box and disconnected the connector to the ABS controller. I found that one of the wires that takes a 12V supply to the ABS controller had a break in it. It had a splice somewhere between the 2 - which I thought was probably where the problem was. Of course it was somewhere in the wiring loom and I didn't have the time or inclination to get to it - so I ran a bypass wire along the route of the loom. That fixed all the error codes apart from the Front Right ABS sensor. I tested the continuity between it and the ABS connector and it was fine. I then replaced the sensor with one I had got from a breakers yard.......and once I got above 15mph......the yellow ABS light went out!! :-D

Just wanted to thank Nello for his instructions on how to replace the front grill and yes, I know this post is getting quite old now. We've got two Delta's - a Volcanic Black Momo 'S' model and my white SR, both 1.6TD. I found a grill on eBay Italy but the guy wouldn't ship it to the UK for some reason. (He also ignored the messages that I sent him), so I got it shipped to a friend in Germany who kindly shipped it to us. Yesterday we took the front bumper off the S and replaced it with the Lancia grill, then moved the Momo grill to my SR. The grill wasn't cheap, it was 199 Euro. Also the back Lancia badge was another 22 Euro. The right hand side, underneath the car is a total pain in the arse because its got plastic screws which hold a cover in place. The rest of it was fairly simple. The first bumper took about an hour and a half as we were learning on the job, where as we did my SR in about half that time. I'm not convinced yet by the black grill on my SR, but it does look good on the S. Here's some pics of before and after.

Did it!! Excellent video andyb2000 thanks! I found out that the thermostat I bought was actually mis-labelled in the database and was for an earlier voyager variant. I didn't fancy waiting for 2 weeks for delivery of the ebay thermostat that andy mentioned in his youtube notes so I did a little research on similar types. I picked up a thermostat for a 1992 Renault Clio 1.1 Engine code C1E700. It was about £8. It didn't have the same housing as the one Andy used, but the disc type. I had do do a fair bit of filing to reduce the diameter. It works a treat! Thanks all for your help.

Hurrah!