VoyagerPig69

Unfortunately I'm no draughtsman, and it's in inches as I think, being American, it was done in inches (mm readings were a bit odd)

Hope it helps
 
https://ibb.co/TkY8BGq
 
 Not bothered with the short leg sizes, as I never used them. Probably used to get a start then changed to the longer ones. 

Just had mine out to do the head gasket.
 
A liberal soak in WD 40 overnight and a couple of gentle taps with a plastic hammer and they came out easy.

Just read another one of your posts, you're in Spain. 

I'll get you some measurements

You are right the handbrake does not auto tighten. there is a blanking grommet in the bottom of the rear disk back plate that allows access to the adjuster. with the wheel off the ground tighten each one until the wheel binds with the handbrake two clicks up. the hand brake on GV's is poor at the best of times so don't expect too much. The cable in the cabin should not need tightening and definitely shouldn't be used to adjust the brakes.

Did you replace the o-ring when the injector was out?

I decided to anneal it anyway, I have always done that for copper washers on oil lines etc and decided it would be a sensible option.
I don't know why I thought 32.4Nm was going to be too high, I guess it was a worry about shearing it in the head because it would be a right pain in the a*se to try and get any thing out from there while the engine was in place.
Once I cleaned the threads up on the bolt it went back in a lot easier than it was to get out!
Its all back together and seems to be running OK but I will keep an eye on it once I have taken it for a proper run and everything is up to temperature properly.

I didn't have much choice, the O ring was a C shape, not an O !!!

As to annealing the copper washer, this should have been done after punching it out. Saying that I havn't seen one yet that looked as if it had been annealed just out of its packaging. Easy to do yourself though.

See here, any help ?

Hi, I had this done twice on my 2001 CRD manual voyager. Didn't do it myself as I don't have the facility to manhandle the gearbox out, but I sourced all the parts for my mate who has a garage to do.
 
First time was at 100K miles, small drip & clutch was slipping slightly. Basically there's no need for any special tools, the flywheel bolts can be used to extract the oil seal(s)  Make sure you get the 3 part seal kit, not just the outer cover one... you definitely need the O rings.
 
Mine started to leak again at about 160K miles, worse than the original one did, replaced it again and also the clutch, the leak was fixed but the gearbox bearings failed about two months after, so I got rid of it.
 
It's a tricky little job, but once you have the gearbox out and flywheel off it's OK
 
 
Mat