bignev

Mine went to scrappy with All electricals working too. Engine was a puller. It's just I ain't got the go go with this copd that I've got to repair the MOT faults.
Good Luck is all I can say.. 

I'm so sorry that it's ended up this way for you pal. And I agree with you on modern electronics, ok when they're new (mostly - but that's a whole other story) but garbage on a lot of stuff after only a few years. Never mind, the manufacturer made their big money and it met all the lovely environmental requirements hey.

I can reply to my own question now for anyone asking the same in future. I bought an ebay special that claims to replace the VES remote and it works! Described as Remote Control For Chrysler Grand Voage 300C Video DVD Headphones VES System, we're up and working again!

Was a 2.5CRD 2003 with about all the toys. Had her 7 years with only service items. Reconned she had been a Birmingham posh taxi, while having 170k miles on her she probably had more. Clutch was a stirring the soup to find low gears over those 7 years. 
She was to sit aside again for MOT repairs so decided to scrap her. Got a bit welding to sill done 2018.
Brake pipes needing replaced. Clutch was a problem. Steering gear leaking. Engine was perfect, didn't need topping up, maybe due to the Redex it got on every fill, (Tesco £2). Always passed the smoke test too. 
She was a good old girl, would buy another if one came up not far away. Half the price of Volvo XC70's I was looking at.
I'm not soo good at mo so might not see another.
Selling her was a problem, had her down for spares and repairs in local facebook, £300 was far to much for most, so scrapy got it for £100 uplifted. 

Not sure if you've still got the car, it being 2 months later, but at 108K you should have a year or 2 left in it. However as you rightly say (and I'm at a similar place with mine) there is a point when spending more money on it has to stop.
 
That said, being the sceptic I am, my first thought is ....is the garage you used reliable ?, or did they say just that there was a bigger problem because they were unable to solve a simpler one ?. 
 
My suggestion is twofold, 1, if I were in any way suspicious of the accuracy/integrity of the garage I used, I would have it checked again by another garage to confirm. And/or 2, depending on cost, try a different ABS Module/pump based on seeing on the eBay picture as to whether or not it looked identical.
 
Point to note, In the past I've been very successful in buying parts for unusual car base on assessing the advertise picture(s), and only had a problem when the picture wasn't actually of the part being sold !!!
 
Good luck.

Good evening
 
At my house we have been down to minus 16 last week. around zero now, but expecting cold week coming. Yes, I was also thinking that 5W is for me, but now I have had some advice from my local garage. Was there to take the two year EU-control. Thinking that was a good place to start to see if I shall spend some money on the car or nor. It passed pretty well, only problems with brakes on right front wheel and ABS-sensor both left and right side front. So, I am going ahead with engine oil now and gear oil when I find out how to do it. This is one of my first cars with auto gearbox, at least he first one I am planning to change oil on. Yes, I hav some  experience with  a bad bearing and whistling sound form tensioner and pulley. Not much experience, but I had a bad bearing in the tensioner pulley for the alternator on my last car. I think it is not that this time. The cambelt has been changed recently by the former owner, but I must contact him to find out which pulleys he changed. The sound in my car seems to come from under where the oil sump is. I tried to listen left, right and from above the engine, but it was most clear from when I put my head under the engine. Then I tried to increase then idling/revs. I am not sure, but it may be the noise then disappeared. Or it disappeared because of more natural engine noise. Difficult to say, but I am starting to be more convinced about low oil pressure. Anyway, I asked my mechanic about this noise. He told me that had very good experience with Valvoline 10W/40 on  a relatives car, an older Volvo S80 with turbo engine, maybe it was a 2.0 liter. That I dont remember clearly. Like they always says in the garages, go for quality oil. I have not listened much to that earlier, but when i came home and checked Valvoline's website I got this feeling that I will go for this. Actually Valvoline recommend 5W/40 for my car. New stop at the garage, but the mechanic urged me to go for the thicker 10W/40 even if I live in a cold area. Then  I will surely find out if a thicker oil is helping, or if it maybe is the oilpump itself. My next check on Valvoline also revealed that their Max Life 5W/40 is fully synthetic and the 10/40 Max Life is Semi Synthetic. I have some hope that semi synthetic is better in this case. The oil will be changed during the coming week, I hope, will come back with the result!

Trying to be positive about it, even down in Portugal the ambient temperature will have dropped a bit over the last few months, which will affect the fuel consumption, more so on short journeys. A colder engine uses more fuel. And winter diesel is different too - but I have NO idea if you get that, probably not, but I don't know if you're North or South and ever see freezing conditions.
 
Just my opinion, but if it runs well without excess smoke, starts fine, and no problems at any running conditions then it's not over likely to have damaged injectors. 
 
Of course you may have had it years, I don't know that level of detail, and the fuel use has not been this low before at this time of year.
But if you have had it a while have you always filled the tank? If not then there's no comparison to be had sadly.
 
And at 2 to 3 mpg worse yes it's costing you money, but at low miles per year (guessing again here because of the 10km journey, but you could do it many times a day.....) then that actual cost may not be that high? And it's relative cost compared to a set of refurbished or new injectors?

Dear Taxi Driver, bignev!
 
My wife and daughter arrived from Pakistan 2. of January. I was almost a nervous wreck on how to get them back into Norway again due to the corona, if I was not in trouble having them in Pakistan in the first place;) I am out of mental hospital now, thats a joke, but it has been extremely busy. I will come bak with a complete answer during the weekend, but I will give you a taste and that is that I am probably over from cheap oils to Valvoline Max Life 10W/40 for high mileage vehicles.

I decided to anneal it anyway, I have always done that for copper washers on oil lines etc and decided it would be a sensible option.
I don't know why I thought 32.4Nm was going to be too high, I guess it was a worry about shearing it in the head because it would be a right pain in the a*se to try and get any thing out from there while the engine was in place.
Once I cleaned the threads up on the bolt it went back in a lot easier than it was to get out!
Its all back together and seems to be running OK but I will keep an eye on it once I have taken it for a proper run and everything is up to temperature properly.

I didn't have much choice, the O ring was a C shape, not an O !!!

Hi there and thanks for welcoming me to the forum. My name is Kevin Hallam from Chesterfield Derbyshire and I just Googled PT forums and up you popped.
This will be my third Cruiser over the last 15yrs on and off but my present one is my first diesel.
I first encounted them on the Hire Fleet at Tampa airport 19yrs ago when they first came out and thought I was the Bees Knees driving down the Gulf Coast of Florida.
That seems like a very very long time ago now.
I am looking forward to recieving and possibly giving snippits of advice/experience in my time with this forum.

Doing a check over this thread as I had just flew over it in past. Did I just read 1 1/2 miles, one and half miles driving with petrol in the diesel. Can't believe your contemplating doing an injector change. Think it was my son that did this years ago with his injection car and he drove it back home about 6 miles. Didn't hiccup or anything enroute he said. But its up to you of course, garage, AA and RAC would recommend you change them after half a mile.

This is the current one with 18" wheels, 245 45 tyres 

 

Quick update
 
Not sure 100% if this was the issue but it does seem to have solved it.
 
One of the sliding door windows was broken (would not go up or down no problem) however somehow it got nudged down by about 2mm down so not visibily down and not indicated as open on the vehicle panel. This was basically keeping the entire CAN bus (the electric sysem) on. By manually placing two hands either side and pushing it up to reengage and the CAN bus would switch off along with the ignition. 
 
What horrid fault with an already broken window.
 
Took me months to find and only really 

If my calculations are correct thats around 19.5 mpg - ooh -thought mine was juicy 32.2 mpg (according to the car's readout.. in summer it was around 36 - all urban(ish) I live in the countryside so not a great deal of traffic jams. Trust you'll get many more stats.

Hi gordy, according to the guy that repaired it the only damage was to some printed circuits and they have been repaired and tested. He could not test the main program, with out the Chrysler security program. it can only be done in the car. Catch 22, Finding some one with the gear and knowledge to use it is the problem. The Jeep dealer in Swindon can help but It will cost because I will have to transport it. It could cost quite a lot more to find the problem and fix it. Catch 22 again. A lovely car like many others ruin by the computer generation because they think its the answer to everything. One day they will realise they have gone to far. I have not given up just yet but my patience is getting quite short now. That aside stay safe everyone, regards Roy.

Hi gordy, yes everything is doing what its supposed to do,but of course the ecu was damaged by a 12v spike and has had the damaged circuits repaired and tested as far as possible, but the crunch time for a full test is when its back on the car and started. Some advisors have said that it should fire right up but nothing happened.it turned over good but it did not fire. I am sure I need someone with the right gear to test it and there's the rub. So far no one around here wants to touch it. I have a couple more calls to make so I may still get lucky. At least my classic Rover and Maxi are going fine. Looks highly likely it will go for spares repair after Christmas if I have no luck. Since 1998 when I bought my Range Rover P38 every car I have owned since then has had electrical problems to some extent. I have been looking at classic cars for quite a while and have now taken the plunge. No computers, no aircon, power steering ,electric windows  or anything else much. Just happy old fashioned motoring and cars that have to be driven. Since my wife passed in September I have found something to really smile about and although it can't replace her it is good fun and lots of people stop for a chat. I hope we all have a happy Christmas despite all that's going on and maybe I will find some to at least test my Voyager. Happy Christmas To  All, Regards Roy.

OK guys, anyone following my Voyager problems will know my affection for the Maxi. Today I purchased one in reasonable condition. !976 with full history  and historic status. I also purchased 3 weeks ago a 1991 Rover 214 sohc 8v carburettor model. They both have the same things in common. Muscle toning steering, windows etc, no central locking or immobiliser and above all else NO  NAFF COMPUTER. Still waiting for some competent auto tech to fix my Voyager, in the mean time I am enjoying real motoring, and with all the things that's happened to me this year this touch of happy days is very welcome. Stay safe, regards Roy.
 
 

Hi Rab, thanks for the support. Daughter still unwell but I and many of my neighbours  have got a repeating stomach bug problem. I guess its that time of year. Two weeks before my wife past away I went to move the car and it just would not start. This had not happened in the previous 14 months of ownership. I joined the forum after purchase and set about giving the car a full mechanical over haul. £1700 later job done and all the cars known foibles have been sorted. The only upgrade not done is the battery box. I have a new red top that has been performing well. I know a local auto electrician who came out and diagnosed a damaged ECU. He sent it away and it was repaired and tested as far as it could be. Apparently it can only be really tested in the car. The problem is the auto man took ill and testing showed he could not work any more(he is 70). I have contacts, friends and the forum looking for some one with the knowledge and expertise in the Cheltenham area to get it started. Many on the forum especially Andy thinks the 12v spike that caused the problem was the alternator, this has been replaced. The car has had some basic circuit tests but a knowledgeable person needs to be present with the right gear when the battery is reconnected. Everyone so far as not wanted to touch it. The car is in good order and far to good to scrap. It is a stow n go and until this, I believed it was the best car I had owned, but, like every car I have owned since the early nineties computer electrical faults have ruined them. I have purchased a 1991 sohc 8v Rover 214 with no ECU, power steering, electric windows, air con. central locking, just a radio cassette. I am going to see the most practical and easy to maintain car I have owned, I know my wife would approve and I wish she was here to see and decide at last that this a good one. 1976 Austin Maxi 1750. People who have read my topics would probably know this and I have my fingers crossed. I still want to fix the Voyager and may have to sell as spares repair. That's the position so far, if anyone has any idea's they are great fully received. Stay safe, and look after yourselves, Regards Roy.

Yep stuck EGR = too much exhaust recirc through engine = lots of smoke = big black smoke if gunned on set off
 
Difficult to see when driving but easy when sat idle,
 
You've blanked it before what do you have to lose as an experiment!! Just because the egr valve has been changed doesn't mean it can't soot up and stick.
 
Generally injectors would mean various characteristics - difficulty starting, poor fuel economy, overfueling at various parameters giving engine management light, amongst many others as you infer, but you say it drives great.

blank egr off and see if it gets any better

What's the symptoms? Is the car charging at around 14-14.v? What's been done to the car recently? Anything that could have caused the initial issues? Timing belt jumped a tooth? Something that could have affected the fuel pump?

Just read your other thread I'd replied to about the alternator. Did it start before the timing belt change?

Hope all turns out good for your daughter and son Roy, all the best, Rab

 

Hi all, I have just finished refitting my rebuilt ECU and exchange alternator plus some basic circuit testing. I have to now find a good mobile auto electrician with diagnostic knowledge to help get it started or it will go for spares ,repair losing me lots of time and money. Daughters cancer op. postponed due to stomach bug and youngest sons marriage has broke up. What a !!!!!!!!!!! year. I still cannot get an answer to ( how does a covid 19 germ know it has to die at 2 metres distant?) and after spending millions on field hospitals some idiot expert decides to put people with an infectious and incurable decease into the general hospital population putting all staff and existing patients at risk as well as closing cancer and other serious illness units leading to premature deaths and it still goes on. Enough of that. if anyone knows a good mobile auto electrician in the Cheltenham area please let me know, regards to all and stay safe Roy. 

Marvellous, I must have blanked that part from my mind as I don't recall having to make any more access, do remember dropping a screw inside the door though ? and forgetting to put the polystyrene block back in before I put the door card on..... I left it out for a couple of years till the actuator went noisy and I changed it again.

The pipe...found it at jeepchryslerparts
Plenty in stock...appears the sell a lot....