bignev

I can on one of our three, but the others only come out where the orange line is. But it caused problems when we first got it till I figured out all the way back was wrong and left lots of stuff live.

If the selector is on windscreen, as it is on your photo, or foot + windscreen, the system will switch the AC on as it thinks you want to demist the screen.
 
Turn it further round to say face and foot vents, and it should click out the AC.
 
If it all goes off when you turn the climate power off then all's good. But there is another problem that occasionally occurs. The fan auto speed reg packs up so the fan is on full with no control, and when you switch off the fan stays on full and goes into recirc mode.

HI All, very interested in possibly re badging mine but has any one check to see if this is legal in UK as with a new badge etc it will not agree with DVLA information held by them.

That's great news mate!

Battery
 
Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace.
 
Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Best of luck.
 
Power seat fuse : are as stated droppers, as you have had your battery removed for 4 days the 'droppers' should re-set themselves via the BCM/IPM
 
Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week.
 
The  higher  the  voltage  applied,  the  faster the battery will charge, charging at too  high a voltage WILL  damage  your  battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid  battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% :
 
- @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A
- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]
- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A
- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%]
 
Its not linear so :
 
- two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;
- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement  of  about  300%
 
The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged.
 
- 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator
- 14.00 volts  is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator
- 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing
- 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time
 
NOTE01 : There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and I have never been unable to start the car since. They are :
 
• Electrical items left on.
• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
• An internally shorted generator.
• Intermittent shorts in the wiring
Remote key fob
Radio
Heater blower
Folding mirrors
Central locks
Interior lights when the key is in the ignition
 
 
IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - According to Chrysler's own workshop manual :
 
Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amper- age IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging.
 
BatteryMOD
 
I like many of us was an early adopter of AGM, most of us by now will be AGM. It occurs to me that the safe μF we chose for the buttonMOD could be changed to give closer to 14.4V than the 14.1 I was getting. I went 13.9 to 14.1 it would be nice to have that extra .3V, it would make a hell of a difference on a big 80aH even over such a short charging time frame as 15 minutes.
 
I was thinking 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt would be a goodish guesstimate for keeping it under the 14.6[ish] although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher. I'll be happy if I can get to the extra .3's @ 14.4 * Tested .... smack on 14.4-6 winter and 14+ summer over a 6 month period steady across the REV range. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs Well pleased !

Ah good thinking @@bignev I'm gonna give the aux inputs a go, I was basing that on my last GV which did the above.
 
On the engine, all good and back on the road. It was a cracked flexplate in the end, so separated the autobox from the engine (bellhousing bolts, flexplate bolts removed from the starter motor hole when removed), got enough space to get the flexplate out and replaced. Cost from dealer was around £80 for the new flexplate.
I've been planning on doing a full write-up on steps and gotchas doing it when I get round to it! All up and running and happy again though, cheers for asking m8 :-)

The part number would seem to be YY23BD1AA.
 
Try a main dealer, they should be about £6 to £8 each.
 
Or if a few of you got together we could get them from moparwholsaleparts.com in the States, just had a quick work out and even with delivery they would be around £8 each based on 4.

14.6 without first having the ButtonMOD wiring completed is unheard of my friend. The BCM applies a 'limiter' denying the battery anything over 14V. This IOD issue earns a 'frequent' label on these forums and though it can be anyone of dozens causes usually it starts with the "its definitely not the battery" phrase. So eliminate battery then bodge wiring particularly audio. Best of luck.

The IOD fuse is for the Body Control Module and various other things.
 
It's been on very recently so worth a look back on recent posts but I think you need to check this one for draw only after at least 15 minutes of key out and exit the car, it monitors for internal lights, door closers and other bits for a while before going to standby mode.

Hey up fella, blooming heck you've had a ruddy tough introduction matey!
 
My first one barely gave me a peep of trouble for 4 years. Then it became a git and is still stood at the drive behind my van a year on!!!!!
 
Yeah I agree on the tyres, scary as hell what some people think (or don't think actually) is fine.
 
If you have round front fog lights it's a facelift.
I am guessing it has to be because you mention about stowing the seat, which makes it a Stow n Go version. Only in facelift.
To tighten the spare, if you've not found it there is a nut under the rubber floor cover at the front of the floor console next to the (usually pooe) handbrake.
 
Petrol or diesel?
 
You do have to really like them to put up with them don't you!
I've not driven ours for a few weeks as it's been getting some repairs and plenty of (Ihope) preventative bits on the suspension, but today went out for a 110 mile round trip with my 2 girls to meet other family. Our 2007 Galaxy is nice, but this was effortless, mega smooth 1st class comfort travel.
 
And I like the line about the taxman with a torch!! When I was a kid it used to be "some bugger with more work".

Hi there Chilli !
 
Oh no you are not alone!...........
 
I hope I can answer a couple of your points
 
The sliding door tracks are quite hard to find, I've just been through it with mine after my electrical soldering skills were tested and failed. Twice.
If yours is the facelift model, there is an extra crash sensor on this loom, located at the back of the door opening, green flat ish plastic, so the earlier loom won't do the job.
I bought a new one from the US, from moparwholesaleparts.com but remember it's either a Town and Country or Dodge Grand Caravan on there. The bad news is they are around the £100 mark each.
 
On the central locking it's most likely the actuator, ebay, from China, I believe the record is under a tenner.
 
Not sure on the radio one,
 
but starting and spluttering if it's diesel may be linked to a faulty fuel pressure / non return valve on the rail. Not quite holding enough fuel pressure to keep it going first try.
 
Battery / amp etc unreliable - it's a Yank Tank......... The dials sweeping are an pointer to a low battery charge.
 
Satnav - no idea I don't have the discs, someone said recently there is an updated one, but I'd feel a stand alone unit would be a better bet now.
 
They are a heavy bus, so at 12 years old it isn't impossible the front shocks have had enough.
 
The rear shocks will be much larger diameter than a standard unit if they are the "nivomat" self leveling ones. If you can see a yellow sticker with "Sachs" made in Germany on it and a part number 04743234AA then they should be.
 
Good luck mate, they are a fantastic bus if a little bit of a pain in the toolbox.

Hi pal and welcome.

 

Nope you're not being thick, I tried it too, they are weird in that the bench seat will fold flat backwards, but not forwards!!!

 

But I am sure I saw a photo of one perhaps on autotrader that was folded forward, or maybe i dreamed it......

Welcome!

Hi there!
 
It's done with the functions on the overhead display at the front.
 
I can't remember accurately but go into the menu, go along till you get to service interval, then reset to another km / mile range, if you have a handbook it's in there somewhere (probably I think!!!)

Hi There.
Mine is odd at times, you have to press the headphone button on the remote to bring the screen on.

Aha. Just twigged you've presumably just bought the 2.8 2006 that was on another post recently?
 
So I guess the doors didn't work when you picked it up? Which of course agrees with your comment that they may have both broken over time.
One door on ours would motor open or closed until it flexed the cable to the crucial point then stop, so it could be when you are metering it out the cable is making a connection as it's broken inside but of course the insulation is holding it together.
 
And do the central locking motor latches still work?
 
Do check the little button on the overhead switch bank, it turns the doors and tailgate off.
 
The two pin plug / sensor is a crash sensor, added on the facelift models. I've just tried mine unplugged and the doors still motor open.
 
On the DVD, I have to press the headset picture on the remote control to put the screen on each time it's started.

BLOODY AWESOME YOU GUYS!!!!
 
Fantastic info some of us may be thankful for at some point hey!
 
And sometimes it's actually nice to be wrong, in a good way, hey gordy!?

Speaking as I was of her sodding megane - that happened to it about a year ago. One bulb went & the other went the following day - hence how I know it's an hour both sides. Different cars I know, but can happen. You assume they would both have originally been fitted the same day, first turned on the same day & done the same ever since.

You have a fault with the reversing sensor system, or "Park Assist" 
Just went out to confirm, I had the same warning, as the in car display had been knocked off. I've just reattached it and the warnings gone. 
So you just need to find out whats broke, and fix it. 
 

I'm with you @@gordy - hear it far too often nowadays. All the technology but no old school skills or brains. 
Open the bugger up and find out, or take out the injectors or glow plugs and do a compression test, or SOMETHING!!!!!!
 
My van had no fault codes but drove like a sack of poo from cold..... Nowt wrong with it then obviously!!
Go on then drive it I dared them - oh yes it's awful isn't it - bloody hell yes!!!
So an older chap, who used to work on cars in the good old days of points, distributors, condensers etc, said - "egr valve that Nev, gummed up and sticking" and it was. Ruddy new one needed "coding in" to a Renault Master.
 
My line of work is heating and gas engineer, and the number of times I come across the phrase "wouldn't you be better off with a new one" pee's me right off.
No they wouldn't - ruddy fix the damn thing, or don't claim you can repair them.
 
Worst one recently was a conventional boiler supposedly knackered, young couple recently moved in, but when I go round it's still ok for hot water.
So as I said to the young lady - well it's still working then isn't it, it's not dead. If it gets the water hot the boiler is fine.
Two people had happily quoted her a new one.
I had a look round at the system as to why the heating wasn't on, and eventually found the camouflaged thermostat, painted over, turned it up and hey what do you know hot rads 5 minutes later.
Rocket scientist I must be.
So much to the pleasure of my little girls I put a Bob the Builder sticker on my van, with the slogan "Can We Fix It? - Probably!"
 
Anyway sorry I went off topic too.
So commisserations woodie and Andy.
 
Mind you I still have my 2002 3.3 going green on the drive behind my van, my old post from last year has just been brought up by someone else, and slightly new test info, so it may breath life again, yeah right.

It takes all of 5 mins to take the entire heavy mirror housing off and do the job safely with warm fingers in the living room. YouTube is your friend.

Yep, they measured longer, with a tape, and when offered new to old.

Welcome to the site!
 
Yes the pricing especially from dealers can be vastly ranging, seen some for ridiculous money because they had "low" mileage.
 
We've had 3 and not seen any rot, but ours are all 2002 / 2005.
 
All our we're petrol, on LPG, so not had many of the running problems of the diesels.
 
I changed the wheels on 2 of ours, porous on one and scabby on the other!! Try the PCD checker website as a backup.
 
Yep the central locking motors can be a problem, bu they cost pennies to fix.
 
If your family is growing and you are using buggies - you WILL notice the difference to the Grand, our twins buggy wouldn't fit in the shorter Voyager with the rear seats slid to the back.
 
Handbrake not holding - yes got that, so I park it in "Park" it clunks when i comes out on hills, other than that not a worry for me.
 
In 12 months and 11,000 miles a set of new 18" Accelera 245 50 PHI R wore by 1mm on the back from 8mm centre 7mm outers. No they are not the same depth all the way across I measured brand new ones.The fronts were down to 2mm so I replaced them, for more Accelera's.
 
Top front suspension mounts - yep fairly common, but is that because we talk about it and other car sites don't as it's an easier / less expensive fix so just gets done?
 
Wiper stalk problems, I've had the indicator not self cancelling on one of our cars. Got a brand new pattern unit recently for £28.00, and 20 minute to replace it.
 
No problems as yet! with the lights.
 
They are super things to drive, we also now have a 2007 Ford Galaxy Ghia with loads of toys, panoramic roof etc, but the Grand Voyager is a much nicer "posher" car (and in petrol / LPG silky smooth), and he Ford is far from fault free!!!!

Welcome to the site!
 
Yes the pricing especially from dealers can be vastly ranging, seen some for ridiculous money because they had "low" mileage.
 
We've had 3 and not seen any rot, but ours are all 2002 / 2005.
 
All our we're petrol, on LPG, so not had many of the running problems of the diesels.
 
I changed the wheels on 2 of ours, porous on one and scabby on the other!! Try the PCD checker website as a backup.
 
Yep the central locking motors can be a problem, bu they cost pennies to fix.
 
If your family is growing and you are using buggies - you WILL notice the difference to the Grand, our twins buggy wouldn't fit in the shorter Voyager with the rear seats slid to the back.
 
Handbrake not holding - yes got that, so I park it in "Park" it clunks when i comes out on hills, other than that not a worry for me.
 
In 12 months and 11,000 miles a set of new 18" Accelera 245 50 PHI R wore by 1mm on the back from 8mm centre 7mm outers. No they are not the same depth all the way across I measured brand new ones.The fronts were down to 2mm so I replaced them, for more Accelera's.
 
Top front suspension mounts - yep fairly common, but is that because we talk about it and other car sites don't as it's an easier / less expensive fix so just gets done?
 
Wiper stalk problems, I've had the indicator not self cancelling on one of our cars. Got a brand new pattern unit recently for £28.00, and 20 minute to replace it.
 
No problems as yet! with the lights.
 
They are super things to drive, we also now have a 2007 Ford Galaxy Ghia with loads of toys, panoramic roof etc, but the Grand Voyager is a much nicer "posher" car (and in petrol / LPG silky smooth), and he Ford is far from fault free!!!!

Can we have a tab for lpg converted grand voyagers. To discuss problems, tips etc