RichardM

Believe me they don't need any change to go pear-shape!

Can not advise with any experience of this procedure but have extracted the procedure from the manual - treat with caution, the manual appears to be a guesstimate with procedures relating to the CRD - from previous experience.... hope it helps
ExhaustManifold.pdf

So, as usual the manual for the 'Export Model' is BS. Hardly surprising considering my (limited) experience working on the old girl, I usually ship it off to my friendly garage as I have neither the enthusiasm, motivation or tool set to deal with her.  
I guess I'm lucky having a local garage that I trust, they are honest even to the point of telling me to get rid of the bus and buy something more reliable, but I'm 6'5" and it's the only car I've driven that doesn't require double jointed knees. It's also great to just drop the seats when I need a van rather than the hernia inducing removal of other vehicles.......

So, as usual the manual for the 'Export Model' is BS. Hardly surprising considering my (limited) experience working on the old girl, I usually ship it off to my friendly garage as I have neither the enthusiasm, motivation or tool set to deal with her.  
I guess I'm lucky having a local garage that I trust, they are honest even to the point of telling me to get rid of the bus and buy something more reliable, but I'm 6'5" and it's the only car I've driven that doesn't require double jointed knees. It's also great to just drop the seats when I need a van rather than the hernia inducing removal of other vehicles.......

Thought I'd drop this in from the manual...
IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A
normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty-five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position,
and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain
Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty-one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be
used for twenty-one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module
(IPM). This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
² Electrical items left on.
² Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
² Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
² An internally shorted generator.
² Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over twenty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be
charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
(1) Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated
entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take
up to twenty minutes. 
(2) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(3) Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal
clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multimeter
amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending
upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery
negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD
test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated.
(4) After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or non existent, depending upon the electrical
equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit breaker in the Integrated Power Module (IPM), one
at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or non existent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information for complete Integrated Power Module
fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the
amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage
reading now becomes very low or non existent, (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/CHARGING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) for the proper charging system diagnosis
and testing procedures. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary,
repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere
scale of the multi-meter to check the low amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.
(5) Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes
(0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in
Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required;

Well the hubs arrived after 2 days (blxxdy heavy) and checked them for shoulders and yup they have them. Arranged with Judds (friendly garage) to fit them today and apart from a few curses about everything being seized (the n/s had to be ground through to release it) job done and dusted. Driving the old girl back home was a revelation, so quiet ...
I haven't done any mileage yet but the hubs certainly look the part, fit as per originals and were less than £85.00 for the pair. (Ebay GSF).
GSF's item number for these hubs is  303770358853.When you order they ask you to supply your VIN and they then confirm suitability, as I said no mileage on them yet but so far an excellent buy.

Join the club... 
I get this error quite frequently and the warning light comes on.. quite worrying the first couple of  times as you assume something is seriously wrong.. but it isn't.
The thing with mine is that at some stage the EWL switches itself off - which is a no no as far as my mechanic friends think. Anyway it does and then it decides to come back on. I have looked for some answer ro this on the web and the only comment I came across with reference to the EGR and Voyager was that there was apparently a software fix to lengthen the count down time before this triggers but that is long gone and no one has the facilities to rectify this in the UK (as far as I am aware).
Why mine resets without clearing the code I don't know, now I just accept the EWL as part of the interior illuminations.. one day this will bite me in the butt but 'till then just keep trucking!

Taking the opportunity to get a few things done whilst I took a few days off work (yes I am officially retired but...) I bought a replacement fuel filter assembly (old one split diaphragm - running on BMW in line filter), fuel pressure sensor (hence the need to replace fuel filter assembly for easy bleed), fuel regulator solenoid and crankshaft sensor (has always been difficult to start when warm), camshaft sensor already replaced)
Fuel filter assembly - pipe broke during replacement... currently having new one fabricated.
Fuel pressure sensor - replaced no problem.
Crankshaft sensor - ho hum... 
I can find no reference to the 2.8 CRD details in any of the manuals; (I have the following downloaded] - 2005-RG-Diesel-SM,RG-Body,RG-Chassis,RG-Diesel-Powertrain,RG-SM,RG-Transmission).
Searched on google only found reference to uTube - spent around an hour searching by browsing many different videos, the UTub search is useless - how can Chrysler Voyager 2.8 CRD Crankshaft sensor find Seebring camshafts, et al...... anyway found what appears to be a Russian (Eastern European anyway) one that lead me completely astray in assuming just fourish bolts and away you go. 
Yes you have to drop the crossmember (those above bolts), which then reveals the ABS unit and steering gear which are both apparently in the way (I'm relaying my friendly mechanic's telephone report, which was interspersed with sobs and whimpers, plus comments on cut fingers and bruised thumb nails - oh even the easy bits, those bolts again, was not that easy as the two main bolts were both seized and required the subtle application of very large hammers and an oxy-acetylene torch).
So, after a short (30 minute) telephone conversation, the crankshaft sensor replacement has been abandoned, apparently the ABS pump would need disconnecting which means bleeding the brakes etc. and a half day job has swallowed most of his week.
Oh and the new Bosch fuel regulator when fitted and alternator, belts etc. refitted, leaked diesel through the electrical plug  so the old one had to be refitted.  Joy oh Joy.
So no CV until next week, a weekend of wondering how much lighter my bank account will be and thinking I should have left well alone (Eaststart is only a couple of pounds a can after all!).
Now to the point of this ramble, does anyone have details and hopefully images of the procedures normally used to replace the C/shaft sensor on aMK4 2007 (2006 type) 2.8CRD ??????
I think I'll buy a new bicycle instead.
 
 

FCU is on the n/s in front of the IPM (the thing that house the fuses and relays), it's an aluminium box. 
I don't think you'll have hit it but you nay have caught a cable.(see image)

Hi Richard!
No, there's never been any problems with the LED's for side lights, or the cheap aftermarket HID Xenons I swapped in for the headlight low beams.
 
The light switch on the earlier models 2001 up to 2005 were indeed backlit illuminated, I had 2 of them, but not our later ones. It annoyed me enough in the early months of ownership of this one that I sourced the older version with the fittings and bulbs and figured out which wire it needed to link across to light it up.
The previous model also had 2 lights on each of the vanity mirrors in the sun visor, that were dimmable. I changed them too.

I believe the horn lives behind the n/s headlamp assembly and you are right it is a separate unit (VSS). For the time being the alarm is behaving itself and it's too friggin cold to start investigating at present. As for auto electricians they believe Grand Voyagers are the Devil's work and would prefer to stick their hands in pre heated frying pan and I can understand why.
(Page 1257 of the RG-Body.pdf manual shows the location of the alarm horn)

2007 Grand Voyager 2.8CRD (2006 model ) - RG 
Twice now the alarm has 'detonated' after unlocking the car. Relocking does not reset it. Fortunately the immobiliser does not initialise, therefore I was able to drive it with the alarm sounding and the flashers going. After around 3 miles the alarm just switches off.  After the first time I changed the fob battery and assumed that was the cause but today, three days later it just went off again. This is a U.K .vehicle. and has the Thatcham alarm system fitted Any ideas please ?

1. I am no expert on these auto boxes (or anything else on these over computerised beasts, the combination of electronic and mechanical 'challenges' complicate things but having searched and read many problems concerning the transmission I would suggest the following approach.
Being as it gets worse when warm / hot I would suspect an oil change might resolve the problem.
Change the fluid and filter as you state. Do not add any 3rd party product to the oil initially, see how it responds to the new oil first. You must use ATF4.
Whilst draining the old fluid check with your fingers for 'grit', if the fluid is smooth then it's a good but not conclusive evidence of a sound box.
As far as I understand it the computer needs to relearn it's cycling after an oil change - didn't seem so when I did mine but have read that a number of longish runs are required including kick downs, up-hill climbs etc. to optimise the gear change 'point'. Also this gives the box's valves to be 'washed' with the new fluid and may clear any partial blockages caused by old contaminates.
I wish you the best of luck & hope it's nothing more than ancient oil causing the problem. Please update the thread with any results to help everyone else.
 
Richard
 

Assuming there are no knocks on running this is probably an electrical fault.Check for shorts or o/c.
There's an awful lot of cables that go across the head, including the accelerator sensor cable. Suggest check if any cables have been caught during the strip, rebuild. I had an intermittent short on this particular cable and it caused all PNDR123 to light up. A short on cable can cause strange things to happen on this vehicle& prove a bugger to track down. 

Just an update on that £80.00 alternator I bought from ebay. It's great. Waited till now 'cause I wanted to make sure it lasted more than a couple of days. It works great, charges at 14.2 when the battery's down at 12.2 volts before starting ( I do leave her for a few days sometimes), then goes down as the battery charges. (I do not have the temp mod).
The advert says 160Amp which concerned me originally but it certainly does the job and doesn't appear to be overcharging the battery (Optima Redtop [AGM]).
 
Just an adjunct on the battery.
When I bought the car the battery wasn't charging properly so bought a new (as above) battery. With the poor starting also bought one of these magic chargers that repairs duff batteries. Plugged it into the old battery and after a couple of days and a couple of repair mode attempts Voila! battery was back up to charge and holding charge. -> It now sits in the old girl with the new one powering the bought for spares one until I get around to changing them back.

Thanks or the reply Andy, the Pressure Relief Valve was changed some months ago before finding the original cold or warm no go was caused by the primer pump on top of the fuel filter housing had a split diaphragm. Any idea how accessible the crank and speed sensors are AND.. why does it kick off straight away when wafted with some Quick-Start ? dur...............

Hi Richard,
 
Welcome! Others will probably stop by and help, hopefully my memory of these beasts will help, sadly I no longer have my own.
 
So this is one that has cropped up from time to time quite often. It's also a problem I had on my old CGV (The second one I owned). Same thing, it's a warm start problem and it's very repeatable as you describe.
 
My suspicion though is it was mechanical. When hot there is expansion in most components, and in my thinking it's down to poor compression why it won't start. It just turns over and over, it occasionally tries to catch but then dies (If you listen carefully to the engine you can hear it almost catch then immediately fail and back to starter motor just spinning the engine).
 
If I still had mine I'd be starting to look at the cylinder head gasket or even cylinder rings getting worn and loosing compression when hot. Once engine is running it sort of self-heals as it's not as noticeable but when starting that's when you need it most.
 
BUT after all that, sensors also deteriorate when hot so your thinking of swapping sensors is logical. My first thoughts would be the PRV on end of the diesel rail, the crank and speed sensors too, one by one is sensible here. All of those can affect the startup and are also sensors very prone to temperature related failures.
 
On the radio/CD you should be fine fitting. You'll need the code from the old one though. The codes are normally stored in the ECU and 'pair' when they connect up, fitting a different unit I suspect will trigger the need to enter the code, which if you don't have the original manual/code doc for the donor car might not work, but I'd say give it a go.
 
I recall that relay you mention but cannot for the life of me remember it's function. I'll see if I can find out!
 
Cheers,
Andy

We seem to have moved away from alternators (problem solved with £80 ish alternator) and onto what appears to be the major problem with the GVs or this 2.8 CRD engine in particular i.e. fuel related issues. I have had problems ever since buying the old girl  (Dec 2019), I think I am going to bite the bullet and get a new pump, problem is I am not 100% convinced it is the pump, if it was I would expect a more consistent fault ? I think I'll open a new (repeat) thread on this issue.
 

Okay, not whishing to hijack this post as my knowledge of Alternators is next to zero other than many years ago I had a doggy Alternator tested in a 'Lucas' test shop to say it was the 'Diode' ? which was only a 1/3rd of the cost of a new one. Which I then bought and fitted (2 wires) for it then not to work and the shop say that something else was wrong, which couldn't have been diagnosed until the Diode fault had been cleared. Consequently from that day on, whenever it arose I have simply replace a dodgy one with a new/rebuilt one, and while I haven't change my GV one, it looks to be a very straightforward job.
 
That said, my GV does have an Alternator fault whereby the battery drains after about 3 days which I think is a 'leak' through the Alternator. My solution was to buy a Battery terminal isolator for a few £s off of eBay, which other than the slight inconvenience has worked well for nearly 2 years
 
So onto RichardM's issue, when I say pump's output, it's the 'Injection System I'm talking about, inasmuch as it's common rail diesel CRD implying that the 'injection system' is always pressurised ready for each injector to fire. If the system is not pressurising it's either the common rail (high) pressure pump letting by or the lift pump letting by (could be same pump) (I'm not that knowledgeable). Or, it's allowing/letting in air when at rest, which then needs purging on starting from such as a fuel rail leak, or leaky (perished) feedbacks from the Injectors, or leaky filter, etc.
 
There is also a bizarre fault mode (on some cars) whereby it messes about starting depending on whether you have the car facing uphill or downhill  .
 
Other indications of fuel delivery issues are how well its running and (especially) for starting how much and what smoke comes out the back, although in your case the easystart will make that diagnosis difficult   .

£1000 ouch, ouch, ouch, that would be enough to have mine be on it's way to the great scrappy in the sky 
 
Surely as they are a popular engine for many models, especially campervans, there will be some local 'diesel' expert who can check your pumps output as a first step  .

I don't know whether this is helpful or leading you up the garden path; Firstly my old bus is a 2007 Diesel GV. Today whilst picking up some items from the local electrical wholesaler the GV wouldn't start - not unusual so gave her a burst of Quickstart and brum brum but after a couple of miles I noticed the voltage reading (have a cheap & very useful voltmeter plugged into the cig. socket) was 11.3 (this is whilst driving whereas it's normally around the 12.9 to 13.3 ish; as I continued the voltage dropped quicker than the fuel gauge down to around 11.1 and then the gearbox decided to go into limp mode i.e. it wouldn't change up. After a couple of miles dash lights started lighting up at random, then the speedo died shortly after followed by the tacho, shortly after and 800 yards from home the engine followed suit - amazing how heavy the steering is without the servo helping out.
I have never had an electrical problem with the car before (lots of starting issues)... Don't know what's wrong yet will get the fluke out tomorrow and investigate but to summarise low voltage does appear to restrict your choice of gears to 1.

Hiya Richard, do you get it to start by proving the fuel pressure manually?
On another vehicle my problem was caused by the fuel non return device failing so it drained back to the tank. And the pump can't pull if there's air in the line! New non return on, sweet as you like!

Whilst I love the space and comfort of my GV I totally sympathise and understand your decision. I have owned my GV around 13 months now and for nine of those I suffered from the dreaded won't start 'cause I don't feel like it syndrome. My local garage finally traced it to a faulty fuel filter housing which has been replaced with an in line BMW 3 litre fuel filter. Now starts every time regardless (am I tempting fate.. hope not) 
But back to the theme. Has anyone contemplated replacing the engine (and drive train) with something more robust i.e. older ? Ford Transit 1st edition FWD or something else (Americano with auto box ?). I cannot imagine it would be easy and would require an awful lot of ancillary work (cutting out half a ton of wiring and CPU's.. Fuel consumption may turn our to be lousy but reliability would surely increase along with peace of mind and the ability to get it running again with a screwdriver and hammer.
I've also dug out my old vinyl and the sounds of Cat Stevens, Hawkwind and Pink Floyd now reverberate around the house (when my other half is out the house).
Bye the bye, I did own a 'classic', a Jensen GT, restored it from rust then found I didn't fit in it...... My old Merc, W124 estate is sittoing doing nothing in the drive due to steel worm in the wings, must do something to it when the weather improves (also need to inject another dose of enthusiasm!)
Good luck for the future. - Richard                               (still love the GV but know when the grmlins return no doubt the scrapyard will call.)

If my calculations are correct thats around 19.5 mpg - ooh -thought mine was juicy 32.2 mpg (according to the car's readout.. in summer it was around 36 - all urban(ish) I live in the countryside so not a great deal of traffic jams. Trust you'll get many more stats.

Starting getting worse, now thinking the actual primer pump may be the cause or curse.... Trouble is where do I get the bits to overhaul it or where do I get a new one from ? I love this old bus, it's the only thing I've found that's big enough for me BUT I'm getting frustrated with the whole starting issue.. HELP>