RichardM

That confirms what I thought .. won't say what I think of the manual (book that is, not gearboxes - though I'm no fan of those either.. probably one of the rare better ideas of our friends across the pond [Autos Forever, Rah,Rah,Rah) Nope, it ain't the auxillary heater, that always comes on even though we pulled the fuse when the in line filter was fitted, this is right next to the fuel warning light = in fact it lights up the fuel light even though it's 3/4 full.... NEVER NEVER run out of diesel when you've put an in line in as you lose the primer pump (it's part of the filter housing). Thanks for the confirmation.

Confusion reigns (again). Last night I got a couple of warnings light up on the dash. First was a water in fuel warning (Little flame type display next to the low fuel warning)... I understood that the seperator / sensor was built into the fuel filter housing on the front of the engine which has not existed on my car for three months (it was replaced by an in line fuel filter from a BMW 3 litre due to poor starting). All the sensor and pre heat leads were left in place with no apparent detrimental effects and everything was tickety boo till last night. No apparent problems with starting or running but thought would check the manual (pdf 2005-RG-Diesel_SM) which indicates there is a fuel filter in front of the rear axle which contains the fuel / water seperator and sensor ???? true or not ? It's too blxxdy cold , wet and muddy to crawl under the car at present and I don't believe the manual .. too many othet errors in it. Second warning wa sthe ABS light glowing in the dark but believe this may be due to a sensor deing ripped off or disconnected when I went through a puddle (rather deeper than I thought) at around 50mph on the A52 .. as I mentioned it's been rather wet lately. Anyway are there two fuel filters on the 2007 Voyager? If not is the WIF sensor in the filter housing at the front of the engine ? (as below) Any help gratefully accepted, recieved. Richard

Confusion reigns (again). Last night I got a couple of warnings light up on the dash. First was a water in fuel warning (Little flame type display next to the low fuel warning)... I understood that the seperator / sensor was built into the fuel filter housing on the front of the engine which has not existed on my car for three months (it was replaced by an in line fuel filter from a BMW 3 litre due to poor starting). All the sensor and pre heat leads were left in place with no apparent detrimental effects and everything was tickety boo till last night. No apparent problems with starting or running but thought would check the manual (pdf 2005-RG-Diesel_SM) which indicates there is a fuel filter in front of the rear axle which contains the fuel / water seperator and sensor ???? true or not ? It's too blxxdy cold , wet and muddy to crawl under the car at present and I don't believe the manual .. too many othet errors in it. Second warning wa sthe ABS light glowing in the dark but believe this may be due to a sensor deing ripped off or disconnected when I went through a puddle (rather deeper than I thought) at around 50mph on the A52 .. as I mentioned it's been rather wet lately. Anyway are there two fuel filters on the 2007 Voyager? If not is the WIF sensor in the filter housing at the front of the engine ? (as below) Any help gratefully accepted, recieved. Richard

Whilst I love the space and comfort of my GV I totally sympathise and understand your decision. I have owned my GV around 13 months now and for nine of those I suffered from the dreaded won't start 'cause I don't feel like it syndrome. My local garage finally traced it to a faulty fuel filter housing which has been replaced with an in line BMW 3 litre fuel filter. Now starts every time regardless (am I tempting fate.. hope not) But back to the theme. Has anyone contemplated replacing the engine (and drive train) with something more robust i.e. older ? Ford Transit 1st edition FWD or something else (Americano with auto box ?). I cannot imagine it would be easy and would require an awful lot of ancillary work (cutting out half a ton of wiring and CPU's.. Fuel consumption may turn our to be lousy but reliability would surely increase along with peace of mind and the ability to get it running again with a screwdriver and hammer. I've also dug out my old vinyl and the sounds of Cat Stevens, Hawkwind and Pink Floyd now reverberate around the house (when my other half is out the house). Bye the bye, I did own a 'classic', a Jensen GT, restored it from rust then found I didn't fit in it...... My old Merc, W124 estate is sittoing doing nothing in the drive due to steel worm in the wings, must do something to it when the weather improves (also need to inject another dose of enthusiasm!) Good luck for the future. - Richard (still love the GV but know when the grmlins return no doubt the scrapyard will call.)

If my calculations are correct thats around 19.5 mpg - ooh -thought mine was juicy 32.2 mpg (according to the car's readout.. in summer it was around 36 - all urban(ish) I live in the countryside so not a great deal of traffic jams. Trust you'll get many more stats.

Sorry but just noted the link to ebay Lucas primer - is this what's fitted or does it require some mods for a 2007 CRD. On the issue of maintenance, is there a w/s manual for this specific engine. I downloaded a set for the Voyager and it is very sparse on diesels and mentions things that do not exist - like lift pumps etc. ? ? ?

Starting getting worse, now thinking the actual primer pump may be the cause or curse.... Trouble is where do I get the bits to overhaul it or where do I get a new one from ? I love this old bus, it's the only thing I've found that's big enough for me BUT I'm getting frustrated with the whole starting issue.. HELP>

On the subject of priming. Prime it by pumping the rubber 'bung' thing at the front of the engine - now use a walking stick from charity shop to stop ripping the skin off my hands. Give it ten pumps and it usually does the tric On the subject of Autel, I am still curious if this kit works with the 2.8 diesels diagnostics as I have not found any code reader that will read live diagnostics. ???

Hiya, Does this device read engine diagnostics - fuel pressure, timing, etc.. I am still struggling with having to prime the blxxdy diesel line every couple of days otherwise it just turns over threatens sometimes to start Once running goes like buggery, no smoke just loads of acceleration. Had the injectors checked and the relief valve, all spot on. Can find no leaks on the fuel system. A previous owner fitted an in line fuel pump, don't know if it does more harm than good?

again on the eBay scheme there are lots of people breaking Voyagers, may be worth contacting a few. Otherwise check out 1stchoice.uk - a network of breakers - have used before with pretty good results

This may be totally irrelevant and pointing you in the wrong direction BUT.... My bus starts most mornings with little problem, on warm, hot days I can travel 2 miles or twenty and it's a toss of the coin whether it will behave or not (fuel starvation.. 10 seconds on the starter sometimes fires her up sometimes not. I have not solved this to my satisfaction but can always (so far) get her to fires by pumping the finger button on the fuel pump. There must be minor an air leak somewhere in the fuel system but buggered if I can find and perhaps the heat in the engine compartment exacerbates the problem t. Anyway, just try a couple of presses on the rubber 'thing' atop the fuel pump, if it cures the problem (only for that instance) then you're in the same boat I am. I now carry a 15" length of plastic conduit to assist with this process as I was always ripping the skin off my hand, wrist due to the clever way Chrysler have buried the pump at the lower front of the engine below the sharpened edge of the slam panel. Now it's a breeze - but still the #1 on my sh*t list.

Update. Well after a couple of weeks it appears to be working, I haven't done much mileage wise (lockdown), but a trip to the shops (essential items, potatoes, peas, Brandy, Magnums etc), is a round trip of 36 miles and my wife eats a great number of Magnums so... Yup car looks greatly clean (baring the dust), seems well worth the effort. Treated the windows with the rain piss-off stuff that I bought around 12 years ago and filed away on the back shelf of my shed, again pretty good but suspect it may have aged a little, and unlike your Vin Rouge I don't think aging does it any good, may invest in a new bucket when the raps come off.

Having a fair bit of time on my hands recently I decided to apply a PTFE coating to my dreaded Black Pearlescent Voyager. Black is beautiful if you clean it and leave it in your garage (my garage is too small for the bus). I HATE CLEANING CARS. So, having bought this sealant a few months ago, I finally opened the bottle and armed with a mass of microfibre cloths commenced this dreaded operation. So panel by panel applied the first coat (reactive agent ?), left it dry, buffed it off, applied the PTFE top coat stood back to admire the result (clean and shinny) and proceeded to the next panel. After completing half the vehicle, went indoors for a coffee and decided enough was enough for the day. A couple of days later (slow to recuperate) decided that it wasn't going to finish itself. In the meantime I went into town to get some essentials (as per HM govs rules) - I consider cream cakes part of my 5 a day, and noticed rain spots from the previous day still on the bonnet, so it's not magic but as the bottles were open and already paid for decided to carry on and complete the task. The last panel was the roof, and being 6'5" still needed to open the doors and stand with feet in the car to reach the centre of the roof. Please note that pigeons know exactly what you're doing and therefore shat all over the roof - despite Chris Packham's crusade I'd love a shotgun! Regarding those rain spots, they didn't wipe off with a dry rag so had to wash them off - not difficult but thought this would be a thing of the past. Anyway, will see how things go.

Ah Grantham, just bordering on civilization I believe. 1 pub, and two more lamp posts than us, the one we have hasn't worked for two years. Spent the 80's out of the country (S.E. Asia), I do remember the seventies though, the early parts through a slight alcoholic haze, great music and a 1600E resprayed a violent VW green.

That is very kind, hopefully don't have to take you up on the offer ! (I'm in the East Midlands by the way (Old Leake, Boston), take the A52 to the ens of the Earth, when you arrive carry on another 25 miles.

It helps in confirming my worst fears.. The old girls OK at the moment but if something goes wrong then there's no dealer in sight and therefore diagnosing anything other than a flat tyre may prove interesting.....

Just pull the bottom hose & move out of the way (fast).

Sorry forgot to mention this, 9 times out of ten (including cold mornings after two or three days standing idle the old girl starts after maybe 5 seconds. Occasionally, and for no discernable reason she gets the hump and requires multiple attempts of 20-30 seconds of grinding away.... I don't understand why, it's usually when the engine is warm maybe I've travelled 20 miles and parked up for 6 hours or I've driven 8 miles and parked up for 10 minutes.... no logic that I can discern. Still I love the old bus, sometimes car, mostly van but being 6'5" (and a bit) it's the most comfortable PC I've driven .. and yes another inch or two of legroom would be nice and being able to raise the steering wheel a bit mere AND the blxxdy brake pedal is so far to the left that I sometimes run out of brake travel due to my size 11s getting stuck under it! Oh must mention the hernia free seating compared to my old Galaxy, and it gives me more room in my garage (not for the car just freedom from seats, I would love a garage big enough to park the bus but would be lucky to get an (old style) Mini in mine. Regards and joy in these days of self imposed exile!

When you say x431(grey) I assume this is a clone ? If so which clone (please), there are so many and most just glow in the dark. Also, does it run live diagnostics i.e. plug it in, go for a drive & download the data later ? Thanks (in advance)

The time the glow plugs are on varies on mine dependent on (1) the outside temp and (2) if I've just tried to start (they're still hot/warm), assume the magic computer system has something to do with this ? ... No way it'll start without them. Have thought about routing another feed direct from battery via hefty switch but will wait and see. Diesel LP appears OK hand primer is solid, filter is new no water etc. etc.... Glow plugs were replaced by previous owner 4K, 12 months ago, my friendly garage checked the spill rate just after I bought the car, all injectors spot on. No problem with kick down goes like sh*t down a slide, no hesitation so who knows ? Would like to plug in a magic diagnostic (live run) to see if anything turns up but no garage in the area - not even the ex Jeepy have the tools..... I just live (drive) in hope with a set of jump leads.

From Galaxy (2.0 Ghia auto diesel) to CRD extra £135.00 (six months left on policy),.... still pity the poor insurers, both caviar and champers are going up in price every week and I do get an extra 900cc................

I have stuffed the grill with Screwfix lagging and it certainly makes a difference, Have got a Renault 890C thermostat in reserve but my thermostat appears to be working as per spec... if it aint broke.............. I have not done the battery mod, I did have to fit a new battery after buying the car but to date have not been stuck despite many many short (less than 2 miles) journeys. Occasionally she's a pig to start, I have to watch the glow plug light like a hawk, start immediately and keep cranking till she fires which can take a frighteningly long time. The thermistor's readings are also part of the idle revs and emission control systems (God bless software) Placing a 22K resistor in line with the thermistor appears to tell the computer that the engine bay is 20oC less than true. (assuming the thermistor is a NTC 3950 (this is the closest match I can find relative to the small data set in the ws manual) Extrapolating the figures from the workshop manual and then restricting the data set to the relevant range gives the following; (sorry can't find out how to insert the graph) (At 40C the ECU will think it's 2C, at 20/25 around -1C etc. (with 22K resistor inserted)., within this range the thermistor is fairly linear So my thoughts are there is going to be more diesel in the cylinders than is optimum.... Thoughts ????

I've just replaced the antifreeze in my wagon... well not really me, had my friendly garage do it thank heaven. They had to flush it five times before it ran clear, apparently the first time it didn't so much run as glooped out. I knew it was bad as it looked like red mud in the reservoir (it's still stained reddish brown). Anyway the reason I'm posting this is that I bought the HOAT antifreeze from a company called AGM - Polygard MIS16523 Green H-Oat Antifreeze. at £13.19 per five litres. It seems to have comply with all the specs and It's made in the UK (Rule Britannia ) I must state I have no association with the distributor or the manufacturer (in fact I had never heard of them before searching the internet for HOAT antifreeze. I bought 2 x 5L and delivery was free! This is just for info - no endorsement yet but unless the temp drops below -39 or the radiator corrodes thru there's very little to validate it against. But it's the cheapest I could find that had all the specs and as I mentioned its UK made. (Oh and Graham, my friendly mechanic said, it looks like antifreeze, smells like antifreeze therefore it must be antifreeze.) On the short runs I've made since everything appears tickety-boo, heater's good, warms up in a couple of miles, keeps a constant temperature just below half way on the gauge (don't know how many degrees this corresponds to - intend to try and calibrate it when the weather gets better.) Specification Information: Exceeds the requirements of: ASTM D3306, ASTM D 4985, AFNOR 15-601, VAG TL774-C, TMC RP329, MYU 5038, MAN 324NF, CaterpillarSEBU6250-12, Detroit Diesel 7SE 298, Mercedes Benz DBL 7700.20(325), Saab 690 1599, Scania TB1451, Cummins 14603, MTU: MTL 5048, BMW N 600 69.0, Volvo Car 1286083 Issue 002.

If everything else fails see if you can get a 'new' one made via a 3D printer. There are people - and companies that offer this service ~ I have made some cams for my electric gate motors when the manufacturer wanted £25.00 each for them. If I costed my time out for producing them (2 off) would probably be around the 150 mark but times free on a Sunday - better than mowing the grass anyway.

From the manual (basically as above but the Yanks are quite verbose ; MESSAGE CENTERREMOVAL(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.(2) Using a trim stick (special tool #C-4755) or equivalent, gently pry up on the front side of the message center and lift out of instrument panel opening.(3) Disconnect the wire connector from the back of message center.(4) Remove message center from vehicle. NOTE: If the message center lamp needs replacing, twist out defective bulb socket and replace with a known good bulb and socket.INSTALLATION(1) Connect the wiring connector to message center.(2) Place message center in position on instrument panel and firmly snap into place.(3) Connect battery negative cable.Ta Da !