RichardM

2007 Grand Voyager 2.8CRD (2006 model ) - RG Twice now the alarm has 'detonated' after unlocking the car. Relocking does not reset it. Fortunately the immobiliser does not initialise, therefore I was able to drive it with the alarm sounding and the flashers going. After around 3 miles the alarm just switches off. After the first time I changed the fob battery and assumed that was the cause but today, three days later it just went off again. This is a U.K .vehicle. and has the Thatcham alarm system fitted Any ideas please ?

Thanks for the reply As the MOT is due hence having to get it into the shop I think I'll replace the pressure regulator, crank sensor, camshaft sensor and pressure regulator at the same time. If that doesn't cure it then a small fire might resolve all problems...... Aaagh..

1. I am no expert on these auto boxes (or anything else on these over computerised beasts, the combination of electronic and mechanical 'challenges' complicate things but having searched and read many problems concerning the transmission I would suggest the following approach. Being as it gets worse when warm / hot I would suspect an oil change might resolve the problem. Change the fluid and filter as you state. Do not add any 3rd party product to the oil initially, see how it responds to the new oil first. You must use ATF4. Whilst draining the old fluid check with your fingers for 'grit', if the fluid is smooth then it's a good but not conclusive evidence of a sound box. As far as I understand it the computer needs to relearn it's cycling after an oil change - didn't seem so when I did mine but have read that a number of longish runs are required including kick downs, up-hill climbs etc. to optimise the gear change 'point'. Also this gives the box's valves to be 'washed' with the new fluid and may clear any partial blockages caused by old contaminates. I wish you the best of luck & hope it's nothing more than ancient oil causing the problem. Please update the thread with any results to help everyone else. Richard

Just an update on that £80.00 alternator I bought from ebay. It's great. Waited till now 'cause I wanted to make sure it lasted more than a couple of days. It works great, charges at 14.2 when the battery's down at 12.2 volts before starting ( I do leave her for a few days sometimes), then goes down as the battery charges. (I do not have the temp mod). The advert says 160Amp which concerned me originally but it certainly does the job and doesn't appear to be overcharging the battery (Optima Redtop [AGM]). Just an adjunct on the battery. When I bought the car the battery wasn't charging properly so bought a new (as above) battery. With the poor starting also bought one of these magic chargers that repairs duff batteries. Plugged it into the old battery and after a couple of days and a couple of repair mode attempts Voila! battery was back up to charge and holding charge. -> It now sits in the old girl with the new one powering the bought for spares one until I get around to changing them back.

Assuming there are no knocks on running this is probably an electrical fault.Check for shorts or o/c. There's an awful lot of cables that go across the head, including the accelerator sensor cable. Suggest check if any cables have been caught during the strip, rebuild. I had an intermittent short on this particular cable and it caused all PNDR123 to light up. A short on cable can cause strange things to happen on this vehicle& prove a bugger to track down.

Thanks or the reply Andy, the Pressure Relief Valve was changed some months ago before finding the original cold or warm no go was caused by the primer pump on top of the fuel filter housing had a split diaphragm. Any idea how accessible the crank and speed sensors are AND.. why does it kick off straight away when wafted with some Quick-Start ? dur...............

Hello again folks, same old topic but maybe a clue helps... Go for a drive for a couple of miles. Stop, switch off have a cup of coffee, or leave her for a couple of hours, doesn't matter she starts, not immediately requires a second or two to fire but away she goes. Drive long enough, for the engine to warm up (eight miles or so) park up and bingo Quick start required to wake her up. Goes like the clappers warm or cold, I am fairly sure it's not machanical, lets face it the old girl is 60% computer hardware, 20% software, 10% cable and 7% mechanical (have excluded the carpets). I have bought another GV (with gear change problems as a donor (2006) with the intention of switching out sensors one by one, does anyone have any ideas before I start the swap overs or which sensors, solenoids I should start with ? The donor has an electric rear door so was thinking of swapping this but it's a different colour (green) and has privacy glass so have filed away as a to do (maybe). It also has a multi cd player as well as the standard cd player (same radio and cd as mine) so another question, can I just fit the multi cd to mine or will the ECU or whatever throw a wobbler ? Also, removed the fuse box from the donor and there is a relay behind it (against the flitch), cables appear to be LG/RD TN/LG LG/BL DG/BL my colour sense on old cables isn't the best but have searched both LG and DG combos; have searched the manual and these colours doesn't make sense (mind you there is a lot in the manual that doesn't make sense....) I am inclined to pull the fuse box on the old girl and see what's hidden behind that one! suggestions greatly appreciated. Richard

We seem to have moved away from alternators (problem solved with £80 ish alternator) and onto what appears to be the major problem with the GVs or this 2.8 CRD engine in particular i.e. fuel related issues. I have had problems ever since buying the old girl (Dec 2019), I think I am going to bite the bullet and get a new pump, problem is I am not 100% convinced it is the pump, if it was I would expect a more consistent fault ? I think I'll open a new (repeat) thread on this issue.

Possibly but have not been able to find one yet (Old Leake is located 20 miles from nowhere), Boston is closer but that really doesn't count. I know (painfully) that it's a lot of money but every time you buy a 2nd hand vehicle you might as well put a bet on the old grey nag in the 2:30 at Epson. Funny thing is went out this morning, twisted the key and up she fired.... Random(ish) faults are the worst kind...even if you know the source error (P1130) I am seriously leaning towards a new injector pump or buying quick start wholesale.

Alternator arrived this morning, phoned my friendly garage and they popped int in this afternoon ! That problem solved, charging at 13,5 volts all sound on the electrical side... only problem is on kick down during the journey home (nine miles) the engine died and refused to start until bribed with Quickstart juice... got home switched off and tried again, no start .. this love hate relationship is turning into a hate hate relationship... have been reliably informed the HP fuel pump is probably the culprit but at circa £1000.00 worried that it may not solve the problem & a grand down. .. ????

Well, thanks for the info. Glad to hear everything's tickity-boo with yours. I have ordered the £80.00 Chinese thingamy, the part number they quote is correct, just have to wait until Friday to see if it fits! I didn't want to buy second hand, mainly because of the mechanical clutch and potential failure .. hopefully a new (Chinese) one will be better but we will see. By the way do you know how to release the tension on the belt to get the alternator off ??? Cheers Richard

Just an addendum to the above; P0620 - CRV specific P0620 Generator Field Control MALF Open CircuitGenerator Field Control MALF Short CircuitGenerator Field Control MALF BatteryVoltage Too HighGenerator Field Control MALF BatteryVoltage Too LowGenerator Field Control MALF Charging Volts Too LowGenerator Field Control MALF Unstable CurrentGenerator Field Control MALF Battery Voltage deviation Too HighGenerator Field Control MALF Battery Voltage deviation Too Low so could be something or due to battery dying !

Right, after a (very) perfunctory check on the old girl after charging the battery (12.44 volts), started her and measured the volts again (12,1); slapped a current meter across the alternator o/p - sweet bugger all. Also noted a whine from the alternator that I don't think was there last time I opened the bonnet. Based on this wealth of information I am going to get a new alternator (£80++ from ebay) - don't know how good these are but it's as cheap as a couple of hours at the garage! I have checked the error codes (key dance) and got the following :- P0620 - Generator control malfunction .. ha P1651 - MIL / Diagnostic lamp ???? 0204 injector cct #4 0203 injector cct #3 .. pretty sure 0204 etc due to the engine dying with no voltage and are irrelevant, ditto for 1651 ~ anyway until I get the major problem sorted I'ii assume they are all generated by the cpu having a nervous breakdown. Please let us know how you get on.

I don't know whether this is helpful or leading you up the garden path; Firstly my old bus is a 2007 Diesel GV. Today whilst picking up some items from the local electrical wholesaler the GV wouldn't start - not unusual so gave her a burst of Quickstart and brum brum but after a couple of miles I noticed the voltage reading (have a cheap & very useful voltmeter plugged into the cig. socket) was 11.3 (this is whilst driving whereas it's normally around the 12.9 to 13.3 ish; as I continued the voltage dropped quicker than the fuel gauge down to around 11.1 and then the gearbox decided to go into limp mode i.e. it wouldn't change up. After a couple of miles dash lights started lighting up at random, then the speedo died shortly after followed by the tacho, shortly after and 800 yards from home the engine followed suit - amazing how heavy the steering is without the servo helping out. I have never had an electrical problem with the car before (lots of starting issues)... Don't know what's wrong yet will get the fluke out tomorrow and investigate but to summarise low voltage does appear to restrict your choice of gears to 1.

Is there anyone out there with the part number for the high pressure pump for the 2007 2.8 CRD engine? I am hoping the Jeep Cherokee's (Same engine) will fit, the part number for this is 0445010084, but can find no parts manual for the diesel GV.

Injectors spot on - leak test done. Pressure relief valve replaced with no effect. (Bosch) Doesn't cut out or stutter when started - goes like the proverbial bomb. ..... has behaved itself these past few days, have a tin of quick start in the van (hate using it but my job takes me to some very very remote areas. Have ordered a pajero fuel filter housing (has a primer on top!) .. will see how that works (it's £26.00 as opposed to £189 ish for the Mopar original)

There is no primer pump on the old girl now; replaced the filter housing with a BMW in line about 9 months ago. Will check the NRV but doubt it; there is pressure in the rail but not enough. The bleed off / overpressure valve on the rail was replaced 10 months ago but may be worth replacing again; pressure is dropping off in the rail; spill test was done at same time (9 months ago) and injectors appeared spot on.. no doubt the brothers Judd (my local garage) will resolve it eventually but I don't half miss the old girl (a ton of tools, cable and junk and still loads of room!)

Was going to start with "Hi guys" but not sure if that's politically correct these days so Hi ya'll (Americal - Correct ???) Anyway after many months of no problems I had to call the recovery truck yesterday, thought the old problem of air in fuel had reared it's ugly head again despite the new and improved BMW fuel filter .. but no ... a new and challenging fault .. #1130.... My local garage put the diagnostics on and whilst running the fuel pressure starts at 26000 and runs up to 32000 (PCals or something) but as soon as you switch off it drops down to 400 (read during crank over) any ideas .. fuel pump, sensor, cpu ???? Help and advice required please. Cheers Richard

Just reversed into my fence - lost my rear view mirror a couple of months ago - it fell off due to the heat. Anyway wasn't paying attention and managed to damage the rear bumper, anyone breaking ?? anyone breaking a black one ???? (1997 Grand Voyager CD Stow & Go (Pearl Black) always live in hope ! Richard

Just reversed into my fence - lost my rear view mirror a couple of months ago - it fell off due to the heat. Anyway wasn't paying attention and managed to damage the rear bumper, anyone breaking ?? anyone breaking a black one ???? (1997 Grand Voyager CD Stow & Go (Pearl Black) always live in hope ! Richard

Just reversed into my fence - lost my rear view mirror a couple of months ago - it fell off due to the heat. Anyway wasn't paying attention and managed to damage the rear bumper, anyone breaking ?? anyone breaking a black one ???? (1997 Grand Voyager CD Stow & Go (Pearl Black) always live in hope ! Richard

One click of the fob should release the locks on the offside (driver's side) two clicks unlocks all doors and the 5th door as well. (Well this is what should happen - and it does with mine) but these vehicles are very prone to electronic glitches and unfortunately there is on official dealer network in the UK as far as I am aware. I have never used the key itself to unlock the car but perhaps a double unlock done quickly will release all doors ? BUT.. if the driver's door is unlocked with the key the alarm should be disabled automatically, perhaps the battery in the fob needs replacing ?

As far as I understand it there is no 3.3litre diesel. The 3.3. is a petrol engine so a very different beast.

Some vehicles with {sophisticated / over engineered} computer systems complain when you change a lump of hot wire for an LED, interested to know if you get any faults generated. Also, on the topic of lights, should the light switches on the right of the dash be illuminated - mine aren't. If there is a bulb behind the housing any idea how to change it ?

Ah, wonders of wonders, both problems have resolved themselves... must have been the puddle (lake), I drove through. No more warning lights. (The auxillary heater still comes on.. Any suggestions ????