RichardM

Join the club... I get this error quite frequently and the warning light comes on.. quite worrying the first couple of times as you assume something is seriously wrong.. but it isn't. The thing with mine is that at some stage the EWL switches itself off - which is a no no as far as my mechanic friends think. Anyway it does and then it decides to come back on. I have looked for some answer ro this on the web and the only comment I came across with reference to the EGR and Voyager was that there was apparently a software fix to lengthen the count down time before this triggers but that is long gone and no one has the facilities to rectify this in the UK (as far as I am aware). Why mine resets without clearing the code I don't know, now I just accept the EWL as part of the interior illuminations.. one day this will bite me in the butt but 'till then just keep trucking!

Just had the n/s/f sensor replaced - Graham (the mechanic) showed me the old one that had been ground down by that same crud, all tickety-boo now, first time in months I've drived the old girl without an amber glow coming from the dash (quite disconcerting really.

Sorry Sergie but that ain't where it is... it's underneath the engine, above the xmember 'jammed' inbetween the brake pipes coming fron the abs controller - still have the new one in the boot ....

Is it not possible to bock (or quickly remove) the love poison guy (and other non related cr*p) from the site?

Thank's for the response, it wasn't so much where the sensor is on the engine but what Chrysler have bolted around it on the Stow & Go as opposed to the (i NOW ASSUME) standard voyager shown in the uTube video. Well it seems like they stuck everything they could find to obstruct access. I will try and get some pictures taken when it goes back in for the rest of the work to be completed......

Welcome to the forum, few people read the newbie bit so suggest you post the question in the 300 forum, someone will hopefully have an answer for you although the availability of good diagnostic equipment on Chrysler diesel engines runs in the hens teeth area. Good luck with your new car.

Taking the opportunity to get a few things done whilst I took a few days off work (yes I am officially retired but...) I bought a replacement fuel filter assembly (old one split diaphragm - running on BMW in line filter), fuel pressure sensor (hence the need to replace fuel filter assembly for easy bleed), fuel regulator solenoid and crankshaft sensor (has always been difficult to start when warm), camshaft sensor already replaced) Fuel filter assembly - pipe broke during replacement... currently having new one fabricated. Fuel pressure sensor - replaced no problem. Crankshaft sensor - ho hum... I can find no reference to the 2.8 CRD details in any of the manuals; (I have the following downloaded] - 2005-RG-Diesel-SM,RG-Body,RG-Chassis,RG-Diesel-Powertrain,RG-SM,RG-Transmission). Searched on google only found reference to uTube - spent around an hour searching by browsing many different videos, the UTub search is useless - how can Chrysler Voyager 2.8 CRD Crankshaft sensor find Seebring camshafts, et al...... anyway found what appears to be a Russian (Eastern European anyway) one that lead me completely astray in assuming just fourish bolts and away you go. Yes you have to drop the crossmember (those above bolts), which then reveals the ABS unit and steering gear which are both apparently in the way (I'm relaying my friendly mechanic's telephone report, which was interspersed with sobs and whimpers, plus comments on cut fingers and bruised thumb nails - oh even the easy bits, those bolts again, was not that easy as the two main bolts were both seized and required the subtle application of very large hammers and an oxy-acetylene torch). So, after a short (30 minute) telephone conversation, the crankshaft sensor replacement has been abandoned, apparently the ABS pump would need disconnecting which means bleeding the brakes etc. and a half day job has swallowed most of his week. Oh and the new Bosch fuel regulator when fitted and alternator, belts etc. refitted, leaked diesel through the electrical plug so the old one had to be refitted. Joy oh Joy. So no CV until next week, a weekend of wondering how much lighter my bank account will be and thinking I should have left well alone (Eaststart is only a couple of pounds a can after all!). Now to the point of this ramble, does anyone have details and hopefully images of the procedures normally used to replace the C/shaft sensor on aMK4 2007 (2006 type) 2.8CRD ?????? I think I'll buy a new bicycle instead.

Glad to read that everything's working again ('cept aircon of course) best of luck with the MOT.

FCU is on the n/s in front of the IPM (the thing that house the fuses and relays), it's an aluminium box. I don't think you'll have hit it but you nay have caught a cable.(see image)

Headlamps (Export) are fed directly from the FCU (Front Control Module). The export (UK) has separate bulbs for main and dip beam - if both aren't working would suspect either the earth cable (Brown) via C107-5 (changes to black/tan after C107 to FCU (C1-5) is o/c (open circuit) or the FCU has thrown a WOBBLER. I assume the n/s is working OK. I don't think there are any fuses between the FCU and the bulbs (probably relies on the bulb filament acting as the fuse! The grey cable (at bulb) to white/grey after C107-2 feeds main beam (C1-6 at FCU), white (at bulb) to white/tan after C107-1 feeds dip (C1-10 at FCU) "C" denotes a connector. Headlights.pdf

Duct tape and WD40 fix most things - great news

Sorry about this but maybe this will help ? - from the CGV manual ; The power sliding door control module serves as the main computer for the power sliding door system. All power door functions are processed through the power sliding door control module and/or the vehicles Body Control Module (BCM). At the start of a power open command, a signal is sent to the BCM and then to the power sliding door control module via the Programmable Communication Interface (PCI) data bus circuit. This signal, generated by any of the power door command switches, tells the power sliding door control module to activate a power latch release, engage the clutch assembly and drive the door into the full open position. If an obstacle is felt during this power open cycle, the module will reverse direction and close the door. This process is also enabled during a power close cycle. This process will repeat three times, and if a fourth obstacle is detected, the door will go into full manual mode. Once the full open position is obtained, a hold open latch assembly mounted full open switch tells the power sliding door control module that the door has reached the full open position. If the power sliding door system develops any problems the power sliding door control module will store and recall Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC). The use of a diagnostic scan tool, such as the DRB IIIt is required to read and troubleshoot these trouble codes. Please do not ask about DRBIII - its taboo.

The first thing I should point out is that I am no expert, not a mechanic, not a vehicle electrician. Second thing to bring your attention to is that just about everything in these vehicles is controlled by various computers (microcontrollers) that talk to each other via the PCI bus. (Microcontrollers, and digital communications I am experienced on, ships tend to run on these blxxdy things these days, I am not however experienced nor knowledgeable about the Chrysler PCI bus or SAE J1850 protocol. The controllers, I believe, activate an electronic device (solenoid, motor etc.) by grounding it (independent ground from the chassis), this means when you check component live and ground the meter to the chassis it means absolutely squat all other than there is 12V at the terminal, the control module needs to ground the device correctly for it to operate. Be aware that if you disconnect the controller feed to some devices and then try to operate it an error code (DTC) MAY be generated that MAY inhibit the future operation of the device until the error (DTC) is cleared. So if you have removed the sliding door fuse (F31 - 40A) then non of the electrical devices relating to the doors should be able to activate or deactivate as they are all controlled by their respective Door Control Module, which in turn is controlled (for s/door locks), by the BCM (Body Control Module). With reference to the sliding doors I assume everything was tickety-boo before you changed the battery, I would therefore suggest you assume the wiring is still OK. If you carried out the thermistor mod before fitting the new battery I would recommend that you remove the resistor and reconnect the circuit as original ( did you identify the correct wire ? I am not sure any of this helps ~ if not sorry about the rambling.

On the fob one press on the "Unlock" opens the o/s doors (drivers side) two clicks unlocks all doors (except the tailgate that's got its own button (two clicks to unlock on mine which isn't a powered door)

Providing you sleeve the soldered joints (and ensure the joints are clean before soldering) there should be no problem, otherwise its two chocolate blocks (connectors). It doesn't matter which side of the thermistor you put the resistor on.

This isn't an answer I'm afraid but a request to identify your vehicle. model and year, it will help members answer the question more accurately. I did a quick search in the manuals for automatic transmission removal & found this for the 40/41TE but as far as I am aware the quick learn doesn't require the DRBiii just run the car for a couple of miles (imcluding up & down hills (difficult if you live in Lincolnshire! NOTE: If the Transmission Control Module or Torque Converter has been replaced, or if the Transmission has been repaired or replaced, it is necessary to perform the DRBIIIt Quick Learn Procedure and reset the (Pinion Factor(.

Best of luck. It would be great if you let us all know the outcome!

For the 'never worked' part of the query :- Have you checked via the 'key dance' (see previous posts if you do not know how to do this), if your fob is communicating with the vehicle ? An error code (P1680 or P1685) would indicate a possible incompatibility between the fob and the SKIM. It seems possible, due to the fact that the fob has never worked that; 1 the SKIM / SKREEN system needs reprogramming; 2 the fob is faulty 3 the fob does not belong to the vehicle. for the recent 'escalation' it may well be worth doing a reboot (disconnect the battery by removing the earth strap, for at least 10 minutes) reconnect with fingers crossed. Unfortunately detailed diagnostics on these beasts or reprogramming anything appears to require a DRB111 diagnostic tool that is as rare as hen's teeth, FYI section 3.2.4 - SENTRY KEY REMOTE ENTRY of the RG Diesel Powertrain w/s manual makes a good substitute for counting sheep. Sorry can not be of more help (this is one of the few problems I haven't come across yet).

Following on from Perry's question on headlamps I hope 1] this info is correct & 2] it proves helpful.... Whilst browsing the net came across this information for the GV. Dipped Beam (Headlight) H7 (499) Full/High Beam (Headlight Flasher) H9 (709) Front Fog Lamp H3 (453) Side/Parking Lamp W5W (501) If anyone is aware of errors please update. Regards Richard.

From the infamous net ; Please note that since January 2021, the MOT Inspection manual has been updated to include LED bulbs. Section 4.1.4 now states the following: “Existing halogen headlamp units should not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp.” This is a brand new update that seems to only focus on headlights. I assume this is reliant on the diligence of the MOT station in question..... must admit that I am sorely tempted to shove something brighter in mine or upgrade the auxiliary driving lights.

I'm in the wrong part of the country to know of any C specialists, experts etc. Might I suggest you detail your problem on the forum, perhaps someone here can help to point you in the direction of a solution... Engines are engines and gearboxes are gearboxes regardless of the make... Electronics are another matter entirely.

Sorry for the delay in replying but missed this one.. The 2.8 (on mine) has both sensors, the camshaft sensor is nice and accessible on the top of the cylinder head. The crankshaft sensor is underneath the engine, again towards the rear and requires the crossmember dropping. Not a big job if you can jack the car high enough.

The battery isolator solution is a last resort; I am thinking of wiring a switch (just behind the grill) in series with the IOD fuse so I can 'pull' the fuse when leaving for any period of time - but - will have to check if the alarm detonates again if I pull the fuse; don't have the inclination at the moment but will try it out 2022ish, in the meantime will just keep the battery charger on overnight. Have a great new year (or at least a normal [old fashioned] one)....

Following on from this latest event (today 24th Dec), I got home and as the battery has of late decided to drain even faster than usual, and as I don't intend using the old girl for a couple of days , I decided to remove the IOD fuse... duh as soon as I removed it the alarm went off (not at mega dB as the alarm battery isn't very well but loud enough for me to panic and replace the IOD fuse. Big mistake.. Alarm now loud enough to be mistaken for an air raid siren in Moscow. So tried locking (alarm alarm alarm) then unlocking (alarm alarm alarm)... Shove key in ignition switch start up and shove car into reverse (alarm alarm alarm) with the intent on going for a four mile trip (which usually silences the blxxdy thing. Got ten yards and the alarm stopped, and more interestingly the little red, I'm watching you, LED just in front of the tacho went out (as far as I'm aware that little red light has flashed continuously for the past two years, regardless of whether the vehicle was locked, unlocked, parked or being driven. ? ? ? So, left her parked up, not locked and will go out tomorrow or the day after and slam her on the charger.. Does anyone, please, have any ideas (constructive ones if possible !) Happy xMas one and all, lets hope next year proves more conducive to a normal life!

I believe the horn lives behind the n/s headlamp assembly and you are right it is a separate unit (VSS). For the time being the alarm is behaving itself and it's too friggin cold to start investigating at present. As for auto electricians they believe Grand Voyagers are the Devil's work and would prefer to stick their hands in pre heated frying pan and I can understand why. (Page 1257 of the RG-Body.pdf manual shows the location of the alarm horn)