RichardM

Did you solve this ?

I note you said you changed the stalk, this, as far as I'm aware does not form part of the hazard circuit. The common bit are  the BCM onwards.

Morning, oops it's now 14:50 - afternoon BigNev.. greetings and felicitations even (you don't even have to look at your watch...)

Well, this morning weather was lovely, wind blowing rain cascading down and the thermometer threatening to bottom out, so undaunted, and wearing lots of clothing tried it after dropping the earth off for half an hour or so (cup of tea and a biscuit), reconnect & nowt.

Went over to CRD 2, removed switch assembly, over to the old girl, removed her switch assembly, then plugged her back together and it's working.

Up and down like the proverbial wh***'s draws so reassembled and left it like that. Thinking about it, initially the switch felt as if it had fallen to bits internally, I don't know if some dirt had got between the switch and the plastic mount but it felt fine after reassembly... who knows, anyway now got a spare switch in the glovebox.

Just one little gripe, the screws holding the switch to the plastic cover are 1/4 AF. First fittings I've come across that aren't metric but then again should anything surprise you with the 'Export' G.V. ???

With respect to you mentioning the bus, I think it should be renamed bustard , considering how archaic and temperamental it is. 

Anyway all tickety-boo for the time being (except for needing cold start when hot )

Have a good day.

Richard

So, out on ajob this morning, eight miles on council was in the process of closing the road to repair a couple of potholes, (the whole road resembles a cart track through the Himalayas, think the road is sponsored by tyre and suspension companies). ANYWAY, dropped the passenger window to persuade the road cone minder to let me through (he kindly did)

Pressed the 'UP' button - bugger all, leaned over and tried the ns door's button, bugger all. O/S window works as does other electrics so can not be a fuse.

Sorted the job with the van's window stuck down, scrounged some polythene sheet from grateful customer, jammed into door frame and taped down bottom edge and drove off. Couldn't see through the n/s window (dodgy whilst crossing roads!), problem solved when the wind ripped the polythene off and sent it careering over the Lincolnshire fields. Could now see approaching traffic but the rain pouring through the open window was slightly disheartening.

So tomorrow (Saturday) will strip the door and see if I can sort it out, I do have a spare CRD so if the motor's died should have a spare, will update on progress. 

oops, bit late but still... from a qualified owner (it's still running & passed the MOT ) a hope a good Xmas was had by one and all and that this year 2023 may prove to eventually be better than 2022. 

God save the King ...

God save Ukraine....

God damn Putin !

(Trust I'm not being too political..... at least I left out the swearwords)!

Maybe this circuit diagram will help ? - Treat all info from the workshop manual as suspect (from experience)

Sounds like head gasket .

Suggest you run a pressure test on your coolant system, the common, but not only cause of black sludge is oil getting into the coolant system (usually) from the head gasket. There are other causes possible including the addition of an incompatible anti freeze. A coolant pressure test should identify if you have a leak and if so where the leak is. If no leak a flush and refill with recommended anti freeze should cure the problem.

There is in fact no lift pump at all on the 2.8CRD, all the fuel is delivered by the vacuum created by the main (high pressure) pump, therefore any resistance in the fuel line, or air leakage will screw the fuel delivery completely. Mine has suffered from poor starting when the engine is hot from the day I bought it, never solved the problem except by squirting cold start - seems odd but works. Fuel filter housing is always suspect, replaced mine some time ago when the diaphragm gave up the ghost. 

There's only one fuel filter on the 2.8 and the housing is prone to failure both on the heater feed (melts the connector) and the manual primer pump on the top. AS far as I can tell there are NO non return valves in the fuel feed despite the w.s. manual, I may be proved wrong but mine certainly doesn't have any.

might be pre-emptive as the question appears cut off mid sentance but my wife's Mondeo does this when low on power steering fluid - check the level.

You're welcome - trust it helps.

The only pair of wires I can locate with this colour combo are for the water in fuel sensor -- 

Just a followup - did the information help .. more importantly did it bear any relationship to reality ????

Believe me they don't need any change to go pear-shape!

Thanks for all advice in the past, I doubt anything will replace the GV ....BUT totally understand where you're coming from best vehicle on the road when they go but too often they don't. All the best in your quest and as bignev says don't loose touch. 

OK, Clear now, new units are available on ebay for around £80.00 inc pp strut bearing. Strut support mount around £40.00

If the bearing assembly has collapsed it should not have damaged thesteering knuckle strut itself. The hub/bearing assembly bolts to the steering knuckle - the steering knuckle in turn bolts to the strut assembly. All of these are available on ebay ~ either new or second hand.. Had my hub /bearings replaced and supplied parts are excellent (see my previous posts on this for the supplier's contact details. I've attached the pages from the manual - hope this helps.

FrontHub.pdf

Can not advise with any experience of this procedure but have extracted the procedure from the manual - treat with caution, the manual appears to be a guesstimate with procedures relating to the CRD - from previous experience.... hope it helps

ExhaustManifold.pdf

Sorry gordy you've read it slightly wrong.. there are three cables for the hand /parking brake. A front (forward) cable runs from the handbrake lever to an intermediate bracket, this connects to two rear cables that connect to the rear brake mechanism.. or so the manual says!!!! 

If you're still trying to locate a cable & ebay can not help try 1stchoice.co.uk - I've used them before (not for the GV) and they're pretty good 

One quick (1/2 second) burst of cold start & she fires up straight away ..........?????????????????????????

I assume you mean you've changed the battery in the fob and not the battery i the car.

Suggest you try another battery - ensure it's inserted the correct way around... If that doesn't work try cleaning the contacts in the fob.

There is no easy way to reprogram the fob to the vehicle it's all SKIM magic and I don't know f any resources in the UK - does anyone else ?

I thought about the cooling scheme but in twenty feet of water... Have replaced most of the sensors to do with the fuel system and replaced the fuel bleed valve. Is it possible that the high pressure fuel rail that alledgedly has a non return valve built into it could cause the problem ?. I question most things in the ws manual having found too many anomalies to trust that the Yanks actually took any interest in the European build... Am currently trying to figure out how to build an air trap (as per the old diesel tractors) - finding space to do anything is a nightmare. 

If it's only the siren then you should be able to cut the feed or remove the earth from the siren and then leave it to drain it's internal battery.  I don't believe this will trigger the immobiliser.  Image from the w/s manual so no guarantees that's where it is -- anyone else confirm this ?

Nope sorry, same thing happened to me last year. Bought two different 'solutions' - pads etc. one lasted a week, the other approximately 1/2 an hour. My original detachment was due to me attaching a dash cam / rear view screen to the mirror which worked well until a really hot day must have melted the glue on the factory 'fit' / glued mount. My solution presently is to file the mirror away in the glovebox.

Be very careful when dealing with the alarm system, it's a Thatcham approved system which means the Yanks understand naff all about it. As maxcaddy said do not cut any wires or you may end up with a totally disabled vehicle. 

I have attached two images which (may) assist whatever workshop / auto electrician you go to BUT be aware with all things Euro Grand Voyager the w/shop manual may well be total bull do-dah. (Even the image of the export model shows LHD.

If you haven't got round to disconnect & wait (Thursday's post), do this first - it's a lot cheaper .and is guaranteed to do no harm.

ThatchamAlarm.pdf