RichardM

HIya.. yup seems everyone (if there are more than 1) have gone AWOL... spamming, well at least the witch doctors still haunt the site.

sorry but the file upload for mirror switch too big to load

Ther is no relay for the mirrors only a fuse (No. 18.. 15A

Mirrors (if you have memory seats there is another controller buried somewhere (under the seat ?)

ah hah - Remove the appropriate seat from the vehicle
and place it on a clean work surface, (Refer to 23 -
BODY/SEATS/SEAT - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the Memory Seat/Mirror Module
(MSMM) mounting fasteners (if equipped).

refer to Mirror connector switch image attached - Using two jumper wires:
Connect one to a 12-volt source
 Connect the other to a good body ground
 Refer to the Mirror Test Chart for wire hookups at the switch connector

another answer follows with switch wirig details

Was previously able to download images to assist in diagnosis of problems (Mk 4 GV) now restricted to 18.1 KB - spent an hour this morning trying to convert wiring images to this size but failed.. Why has this restriction been initiated & can it at least be uplifted to 200K  PLEASE - these days that's not unduly large ! 

any success on the search with the new vin ?

Assuming this is a late registered Mk 4, there is only one relay feeding the mirrors(according to the workpoo manual (no did not spell it wrong), if it's a Mk 5 then don't know.

Possibility the switch is at fault. Tried to upload an image from the manual but 18.iKb doesn't permit !

With respect to the park assist suggestion 1 - remove battery negative lead for 10 minutes... 2- clean each sensor individually with soapy water ?

Only just caught this query whilst browsing. I would suggest you post further queries in the Grand Voyager V forum. Question 1 is what OBD codes are you getting, these codes should at least point in the general area of the problem & take it from there (and then repost with these codes in the correct forum )

Best of luck - Richard

Thanks for the reply but have had the injectors checked, they are apparently all OK.

There are websites offering to supply a pin for the vin, tried a couple on your behalf both said they don't recognise the vehicle.. not suprising with a GV...

You could try other (pay for results) sites but I would be wary of spending a fortune on unproven sites.

I believe you would then need the DRB111 tool to reprogram the SKIM ????

Again, back to the lurid story of failure to start when the engine is hot (well not hot as in overheating, just hot as in at running temperature, that is to say between 1/4 and 1/2 on the temperature gauge).
Start the car in the morning (today it was -6 Celsius this morning, key in, wait for glow plug light to go off, start (turns over five or six times), fires up and idles perfectly. Drive along, accelerate etc. no problem. 
Drive 10 - 15 miles ( at -4 Celsius) Park up for 5 - 20 minutes, gauge is just off 0) Start up after glow plugs off (1 - 2 sec) away we go.
Park up for 6 hours, same - no problem.
Drive long enough to get engine hot, difficult to do at this time of year! Park up (say 1/2 hour), engine still hot, warm no way it will start without a blast of cold start, then drive, accelerate all tikety-boo.
Only error (repetitive) is P1130 - fuel pressure too high, too low. (Very helpful).
So over the last two years or so, pressure relief valve changed, pressure sensor changed, pressure solenoid changed, injectors checked So what else can it be ?
I read a post on the JEEP SITE , sighting the non return valve (FUEL FLOW BACK VALVE (Yank speak)) as a possibility ?

Has anyone replaced this pipe assembly, if so easy, hard, what am I going to bugger up ? (I have a spare car with a good engine (knackered gear box or associated electronics)

All replies gratefully received but it ain't normal fuel starvation - she accelerates like (expletive).
Doesn't normally stall - did a couple of times in the past but I put that down to me changing things and not bleeding her properly.

Pipe assembly thingumy attached -no it's not fails claiming file size too big (17.1Kb ??) - sorry
 

I think it would be useful to all members, subscribers and visitors if, when a problem is posted and resolved that the solution should be posted. That way anyone else with the same problem may be presented with an immediate solution.

A quick 'Thanks (who ever) that's solved it) would suffice, or, if the solution was something else then a quick note on what the solution was would be great. 

Did you solve this ?

I note you said you changed the stalk, this, as far as I'm aware does not form part of the hazard circuit. The common bit are  the BCM onwards.

Morning, oops it's now 14:50 - afternoon BigNev.. greetings and felicitations even (you don't even have to look at your watch...)

Well, this morning weather was lovely, wind blowing rain cascading down and the thermometer threatening to bottom out, so undaunted, and wearing lots of clothing tried it after dropping the earth off for half an hour or so (cup of tea and a biscuit), reconnect & nowt.

Went over to CRD 2, removed switch assembly, over to the old girl, removed her switch assembly, then plugged her back together and it's working.

Up and down like the proverbial wh***'s draws so reassembled and left it like that. Thinking about it, initially the switch felt as if it had fallen to bits internally, I don't know if some dirt had got between the switch and the plastic mount but it felt fine after reassembly... who knows, anyway now got a spare switch in the glovebox.

Just one little gripe, the screws holding the switch to the plastic cover are 1/4 AF. First fittings I've come across that aren't metric but then again should anything surprise you with the 'Export' G.V. ???

With respect to you mentioning the bus, I think it should be renamed bustard , considering how archaic and temperamental it is. 

Anyway all tickety-boo for the time being (except for needing cold start when hot )

Have a good day.

Richard

So, out on ajob this morning, eight miles on council was in the process of closing the road to repair a couple of potholes, (the whole road resembles a cart track through the Himalayas, think the road is sponsored by tyre and suspension companies). ANYWAY, dropped the passenger window to persuade the road cone minder to let me through (he kindly did)

Pressed the 'UP' button - bugger all, leaned over and tried the ns door's button, bugger all. O/S window works as does other electrics so can not be a fuse.

Sorted the job with the van's window stuck down, scrounged some polythene sheet from grateful customer, jammed into door frame and taped down bottom edge and drove off. Couldn't see through the n/s window (dodgy whilst crossing roads!), problem solved when the wind ripped the polythene off and sent it careering over the Lincolnshire fields. Could now see approaching traffic but the rain pouring through the open window was slightly disheartening.

So tomorrow (Saturday) will strip the door and see if I can sort it out, I do have a spare CRD so if the motor's died should have a spare, will update on progress. 

oops, bit late but still... from a qualified owner (it's still running & passed the MOT ) a hope a good Xmas was had by one and all and that this year 2023 may prove to eventually be better than 2022. 

God save the King ...

God save Ukraine....

God damn Putin !

(Trust I'm not being too political..... at least I left out the swearwords)!

Maybe this circuit diagram will help ? - Treat all info from the workshop manual as suspect (from experience)

Sounds like head gasket .

Suggest you run a pressure test on your coolant system, the common, but not only cause of black sludge is oil getting into the coolant system (usually) from the head gasket. There are other causes possible including the addition of an incompatible anti freeze. A coolant pressure test should identify if you have a leak and if so where the leak is. If no leak a flush and refill with recommended anti freeze should cure the problem.

There is in fact no lift pump at all on the 2.8CRD, all the fuel is delivered by the vacuum created by the main (high pressure) pump, therefore any resistance in the fuel line, or air leakage will screw the fuel delivery completely. Mine has suffered from poor starting when the engine is hot from the day I bought it, never solved the problem except by squirting cold start - seems odd but works. Fuel filter housing is always suspect, replaced mine some time ago when the diaphragm gave up the ghost. 

There's only one fuel filter on the 2.8 and the housing is prone to failure both on the heater feed (melts the connector) and the manual primer pump on the top. AS far as I can tell there are NO non return valves in the fuel feed despite the w.s. manual, I may be proved wrong but mine certainly doesn't have any.

might be pre-emptive as the question appears cut off mid sentance but my wife's Mondeo does this when low on power steering fluid - check the level.

You're welcome - trust it helps.

The only pair of wires I can locate with this colour combo are for the water in fuel sensor -- 

Just a followup - did the information help .. more importantly did it bear any relationship to reality ????

Believe me they don't need any change to go pear-shape!