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RichardM

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Posts posted by RichardM

  1. The main reason for losing the old girl is the lack of support (and diagnostic tools) available. I am sure the problem could have been resolved for a few hundred pounds if dealer level support was around but it ain't.

    Think I'm going to have to resort to common or garden makes from now on. I don;t require the versatility of the Gv, will have to suffer lack of comfort or give the DVLA around £700.00 per year RFT for something big, but there again my wife wouldn't drive anything that big (Fancy a Merc SUV !!  ) but what ho, will probably end up with petrol Kuga - don't fancy anything with a particulate filter thing as majority of trips are of insufficient mileage to keep it clean. Ho hum... 

     

    Best of luck with your new beast.

    Richard

  2. Well after trying everything I can think of it's time to say goodbye to my favorite vehicle!

    I've lived with spraying cold start when trying to start the engine when  it's hot but cannot live with the stalling whilst driving - too dangerous with no brakes and steering the Hulk would struggle with, so now searching for replacement. Pity, love the car, great performance great space, great comfort but too dangerous. Plus may get brownie points from her indoors as she claims it's toobig for her to drive.

     

  3. This is probably a useless suggestion but I needed to get an extra click on the ratchet which meant pulling it up more than it wanted to go - so I straddled the handbrake lever, pulled with all my might which gave me three clicks on the ratchet. 

    I assume you only want 1/3rd of the pull to release the handle.

    If all else fails, and if you don't live too far away you are welcome to help yourself to the whole handbrake mechanism on my 'spare' 2006 GV - you will have to dismantle it though!.

     

  4. Be, sorry about the slight delay (approx 3120 days) but have been quite busy lately. Notice you were in Taipei when you replied to Penguin.., was in Taipei and Taichung 1984 (ish) - loved the place, loved the people - never learnt the language though.

    Anyway, this is to offer my help as an apprentice moderator if the post is still vacant !

     

    Regards  Richard

  5. This applies to the 2.8 CRd - specifically the 2006/7 vrsion where the EGR valve sits at the front of the engine on the right hand side (viewed from the front), just behind the fan relays.
     Ignore the workshop manual completely - if you have one, this refers either to the 2.5l or an earlier version of the engine where the EGR was at the rear of the engine.
    Access is a pig, especally if you have large or even noral sized hands. Be prepared for cuts and abrasions galore.
    Having said all that it's not as bad as it first appears.
    Equip yourself with plenty of disposable gloves, Swafega, rags etc.
    1. Remove battery - a) for safety b) for somewhere to stick the coolant pressure container (Chrysler's description not mine) 
    2. Unclip this container and pull upwards to disconnect from its rear slide. after disconnecting the front pipe.
    Disconnect the two vacuum pipes connecting the ERG valve to the solenoids.
    You should be able to access the jubilee clip securing the EGR's air inlet pipe, slacken off and push the pipe downwards.
    There is a circular clip holding the EGR valve to the sump feed pipe (where all the sh*t comes from), then insert a #5 allen key and unscrew fully. CAREFULLY bend the clip open until it can be dropped down the pipe.
    Remove the 4 8mm bolts securing the valve to the inlet manifold pipe.
    At this stage I would suggest you do not do this over a grass driveway as I did because finding the dropped bolts is a nightmare.
    Lift the EGR valve out. (Be patient, curse freely - it will come out.
    If you are removing, cleaning and refitting have fun. I still have remnants of the gunge in my fingernails despite gloves, swarfega and petrol.
    [Note the EGR cleaning spray I ordered hadn't turned up so I used some industrial cleaner (modern type [non smelly] Gunk - for those of you that remember solvent based degreasers)
    After cleaning or unwrapping your replacement valve I would suggest holding the valve in place by loosely fitting 2 of the 8mm bolts to secure the valve against the inlet pipe before refitting the pipe clamp underneath the valve. - PATIENCE patience patience.
    Then fit the other two bolts and tighten all four.
    Refit the vacuum pipes, refit the air inlet pipe and tighten jubilee clip, refit coolant tank, top up any lost coolant, refit battery. Should be done!

    Including two cups of coffee time taken ~ 4 hours (Any fit member of the cult should be able to cut this time by at least 25% 


    Note: A year or so ago it was suggested to me to buy on eof the EGR sprays that clean the valve whilst you run the engine on tickover, so I followed the instructions and sprayed the magic folmulae having disconnected the inlet pipe from the air filter.
    1. The air inlet to the EGR comes from a secondary inlet via the grill.
    2. The ECM deactivated the EGR during tickover.
    So, I think this was a waste of time, waste of money ??

    Comments ?
     

    EGR After.jpg

    EGR Before.jpg

  6. Mk4 is not fully OBD compliant,  J1850 protocol is implemented for some functions but very few readers work, even fewer allow you to reprogram anything..

    The battery temperature sensor is also used for

    OBD II diagnostics. Certain faults and OBD II monitors are either enabled or disabled depending upon the battery temperature sensor input (example: disable purge and EGR, enable LDP).

    Most OBD II monitors are disabled below 20°F.

     

    The battery temp is read via a NTC thermistor  readings are;

    SPECIFICATIONS - BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR

    °C °F K-Ohms Min. K-Ohms Max.

    -40 -40 291.4 381.7

    -20 - 4 85.8 108.4

    20 68 11.4 13.6

    25 77 9.1 10.9

    120 248 0.37 0.41

    130 266 0.28 0.32

    to bypass if you cannot get a replacement thermistor replace it with a 12K resistor (20sih  degrees C.

    Any mention of diagnosis in the manual refers to the DRBIII reader - obsolete 2nd hand rare and blxxdy expensive.

  7. Trust you have a multimeter.

    Haven't had this problem but - A signal is sent to the sliding door lock motor P34 TN/LB to unlock - maybe if in quiet position you'll hear this actuate - there is probably a logic somewhere saying yes door lock released (as per manually pressing the latch) ??? 

    If there is no action on the actuator check voltage & current - if voltage but no current suggest actuator buggered, if neither check wiring back to BCM. (Wiring diagram attached.)

    Goodluck - let us know how you get on. (I do have a spares GV if you need a replacement)

    Sliding DoorRHS.jpg

  8. Sympathy for living in Melbourne, lived there myself for two years, sourcing parts is probably going to be restricted to online (ebay etc.) except where parts are common between the GV and the Jeep, don't know what penetration the GV made into the Australian market, would think most would be the V8 petrol version judging by what I remember about fuel prices.

  9. 20 hours ago, bignev said:

    If there was little to no resistance, its probably touched valves sadly. And turning an eigth of a turn on the cam shafts then getting resistance could be normal, as in valves getting pushed down and touching a piston.

    But other than that standard knowledge,  unfortunately I can't help you further, sorry!

    bignev is right, the 2.8GV engine is of the interference design, i.e. it relies on the timing between crank and cams to stop valve meeting piston. If they do meet it ain't a pretty sight.  

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