Sentech

Actually I have a bit of a dilemma.
 
I changed the water pump and the timing belt and the engine ran. Should mention here that I did it using the cambelt locking pins.
 
Sadly the gasket on the water pump leaked, guess I wasn't careful enough when I installed it.
 
To cut a long story short I set the engine with the timing marks, locked the camshafts again, then removed the timing belt AGAIN, removed the pump, reassembled the rubber gasket adding a splodge of Hylomar Gasket sealant, refitted the pump and belt .................. I haven't done anything different to the first time BUT the engine won't fire up, she just spins on the starter motor.
 
No nasty noises coming from the engine, she just refuses to start.
 
Suggestions, bearing in mind the engine ran first time and I used the same timing marks second time round
 
Is the position of fuel pump critical ???................... I didn't think it was being a CRD
 
 
Chris

I'm in the middle of this job (in situ), timing is set, pins are in but getting the water pump out was a nightmare.
 
Gonna reassemble tomorrow  
 
Does anyone have any inputs on an easy way to get the pump, in with the five 10mm bolts and that damn 8mm bolt for water pipe bracket ???
 
Talk about a tight squeeze, I'm dreading trying to put the rear timing cover back on.
 
I tried watching the Russian guy on youtube but he doesn't show the pump change.
 
Looking for useful hints.

dave62pb, 
 
Not touched the vehicle since Wednesday last, we went to the beach for the weekend
 
The job is a pig if like me, you do the water pump as well, the work area is so limited, TBH it's probably easier with the engine out
 
That idea with the clothes pegs is pretty nifty, I'm gonna try that before I do anything else
 
Update to follow

Long story, 
 
2.8 CRD 2007, New head gasket (correct size and properly torqued), eight valve lifters, new top end gasket set, new water pump, timing belt and pulleys, fitted at 90 degrees after TDC using camshaft and crankshaft locking pins.
 
Now the sad part:
 
First start ok ....... will not accelerate beyond 2500 rpm.
 
Stripped it it all down again (except the head gasket), reassembled .............  same story
 
The damn thing is in "Limp Mode" 
 
PNDR123 all have little green squares indicating this fact.
 
The engine work was done in situ and I didn't touch the gearbox.
 
 
ANY IDEAS ????
 
 

Just had mine out to do the head gasket.
 
A liberal soak in WD 40 overnight and a couple of gentle taps with a plastic hammer and they came out easy.

@@Sentech There are actually two locations for the 2.8CRD (and 2.5CRD) fuel filter on 4th gen. On every 2004/2005 model I've owned they are underneath to the rear by the fuel tank. None in the engine bay, but I've worked on ones with the filter (with the small rubber manual primer on the top) in the engine bay as you describe also.
 
There seemed to be several variations on the design and so you need to physically check as I've yet to find a way of finding which edition matches which location for fuel filter and lift pump!

Sounds Like dirt in the fuel tank to me

I've got my 2.8 stripped down right now. I don't believe the engine would come out thru the from the front there just isn't he space.
 
What are you planning to do ?
 
In situ I have the head off, exhaust manifold and Turbo.

A bit late with reply as been very busy, Not sure If pump timing is critical as its just high pressure pump , but when I did my belt and water pump I had a few attempts to get the pump marks to line up , in the end I clamped the belt to cam pulleys with wooden clothes pegs removed the idler near pump so I could turn pump a tooth 
just past marker , and put idler back on, then when I set belt tension all lined up
 
When I first stripped it all down I checked markings and pump was 1 tooth out but car ran fine 
I too struggled with water pump bolts but found it best to put the bolt in pipe bracket and pump first , line up and screw in part way before other 4 bolts 
TBH the whole job was a pig so many bolts difficult to get to 

Trying to be positive about it, even down in Portugal the ambient temperature will have dropped a bit over the last few months, which will affect the fuel consumption, more so on short journeys. A colder engine uses more fuel. And winter diesel is different too - but I have NO idea if you get that, probably not, but I don't know if you're North or South and ever see freezing conditions.
 
Just my opinion, but if it runs well without excess smoke, starts fine, and no problems at any running conditions then it's not over likely to have damaged injectors. 
 
Of course you may have had it years, I don't know that level of detail, and the fuel use has not been this low before at this time of year.
But if you have had it a while have you always filled the tank? If not then there's no comparison to be had sadly.
 
And at 2 to 3 mpg worse yes it's costing you money, but at low miles per year (guessing again here because of the 10km journey, but you could do it many times a day.....) then that actual cost may not be that high? And it's relative cost compared to a set of refurbished or new injectors?

I fitted new struts isolators and ball joints to mine a few years ago, compressing the front springs is a bitch of a job because of the shape and width, although I have never experienced your symptoms.
 
If the work was completed in a garage I'd take the vehicle back to them
 
Chris

Thanks for the inputs.
 
The fluid level is spot on,and the vehicle sailed thru its inspection less than a month ago.
 
I'll check out the other adjustments recommended this weekend and give an update.

Update 
 
I found all the relevant info in my electronic manual  (using the index at the end helps) 
 
It looks fairly straightforward to replace the core. I'm ordering one tomorrow and I'll fit it next weekend. 
 
I'll take some photos for the record in case anyone else runs into this problem.

Hi Big Nev,
I'm currently in Chester. My driveway slopes down and for some reason I never saw a leak from the front (saw a small pool beneath the thermostat housing area but nowt else). Took it on numerous test drives, absolutely fruitless. I dipped the oil to see if it had risen (head gasket). It was high but when I put a lighter to it it didn't hiss or spit, then I thought hang on you PONKER put it on level ground. I did this the oil level was fine but when I topped up the expansion tank I felt water dripping onto my left foot. I removed some plastic from above the radiator and hey presto a friggin leak on the radiator just visible behind the condenser.