frogland

I cut the battery tray and fitted the biggest battery I could find- it helps !

Great news Nev, How were the injectors to do then, not too bad or took a while on them? I keep putting it off as don't get much on leak-off but wonder if it would help on mine.
 
Yeah, there are a few things that cause this and stubborn is the way to go! Keep at it and you'll get it sussed.

The reason I ask about easy start is related to the injectors.
 
Following on from the comments I made in #2 on 3rd June, our Kia Sedona 2.9 got worse, after it started 1st time in the day it would be a sod to start again without a whiff of help.
After I did a leak off test it identified 3 knackered injectors, but it ran really well when it was running, apart from lots of black smoke.....
All of them peed through fuel, so much in less than a minute so I had to stop the test!
 
So tonight I have finally finished the job of 4 2nd hand injectors, and it's seeming to be sorted - we'll recheck that in the morning!! 

Hello there,
 
Did the same a few weeks back, wasn't too bad. Have you checked out http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/4518-not-turning-over-general-starting-fun-on-28crd/? There's some bits on it there.

Redo starter earth and trigger wire as in undo, clean tighten replace especially the spade on the trigger wire.

It was the dimmer control thanks a lot Andy.

It was the dimmer control thanks a lot Andy.

Agreed, that sounds more likely in your case @@frogland
Swap to a different thread to keep the posts clean, I've looked over your previous posts and agree it appears to be related to your MAP/TC sensor.

Ive bought quite a few bits from rock auto, 4 dats delvery and less than half the uk price !

I'd also be a little concerned that you're having to do that on the incline.
 
Normally the box should shift down and cope with it, L and 3 are generally used when you're towing or wanting to force engine braking, the box should automatically shift down fully to handle any hills.

It could also be the bushes in the shock absorber mounts.
Jack it up and it should be fairly easy to see as it rises up if the bolt stays remotely central or pulls from top to bottom on its way up.
 
I did mine last year, they were cream crackered!!!
 
But as it had self levelling type, I did the bushes not the complete shocks, hundreds cheaper!!

Hi
Shifting to 3 is safe at speed it's a bit like using the kick down but using L I would advise from stationary as it uses 1st gear for a long time then shifts to second.
It's almost like a get you moving gear but not at speed.

Thanks Mike,that's a useful link.

codes here

...I was looking online for more info without realising I had the info needed right in front of me:
By moving the mouse pointer on the wire abbreviation it tells the colour, so here you have:

(You should get the software is better and better discovering new stuff every time I use it)

hbl- light blue
hgn- light green

https://www.hitechcontrols.com/cables/technical-information/48-color-abbreviations.html
 
Hope it helps.

It depends how good yoy are with mechanics...by the time you find the brushes you take it to a local mechanic, I usually pay £10-20 depends. If you don't get them right it can damage the rotor, I prefer taking it to someone that does this for a living.
 
Also keep in mind that playing with the negative (earth) it creates high inrush current that can damage the starter, if not damaged already.

I was reading a post on a French Chrysler forum just recently someone with the same engine had major starting issues similar to yours.
He tried everything except the crankshaft of sensor, it turned out to be the crankshaft sensor !
I ll probably end up replacing mine.

Don't mistake alternator with starter.
Probably just a typing error but to make sure, the starter is low below attached near the gearbox that engages the flywheel.

These heavy diesels pull alot of amps for startup. In cold it's far higher. Corroded earth in wiring harness is not unheard of. Mine was getting harder to start. Then just clicking from starter motor. I also saw dash clocks doing strange things. All gear lights lit up. Id already fitted new battery. Dawned on me the earth might be problem so tried jumper cable from negative on battery to starter motor bolt. Dash lights and gear selection lights behaved instantly and car started first turn. I'd add I did usaul checking existing earth was tight and battery terminals where tight. Battery seems to charge alot better now.
And yes bad earth can cause cut out while running. And super easy and cheap to try. I need to figure how to post pic
It might not totally solve everthing but help getting descent power to starter motor.

Got home. The car started using easystart, stumbled about for a bit then it warmed up and ran OK.
I think the fuel may have been air locked, and the battery didn't have enough to start in the cold.
I am in Bolton at the moment and it is freezing.
After using the car for half an hour, I left it to cool down. 2 hours later I went to it, there was ice on the windows and the doors were stuck. I know other people have got worse weather, but i have never been this cold for years.
Took a few turns but it started. the new battery is priceless.
I am guessing the car has a cold start issue.
Does anyone know if it has a glow plug relay?.... I cant believe all the glows have failed at the same time.
This has been a comedy of errors. The lesson learned is don't assume it is only one problem.
These vehicles need a good battery. I have found a guy on my doorstep in Abergele, Tayma Batteries,  he sells American batteries, not cheap, but they will definately be up to the job.  I am convinced that most starting problems are battery related, even if the battery appears to be good. I hope to use the car tomorrow and it will probably be easystart, it's freezing here.
What I have learned about the fuel heater fuse is, it also powers the fuel pump in the tank.

Great, glad to hear it @@Expoman
That adds up to my thinking that this has a large list of problems that cause the same/similar symptoms hence being so tricky to pin down. I'm still getting bad starts so think there is more to be done so I'll get on with that in warmer weather.
 
Did a lot of driving today, snow and -2 temperatures and no problems though.
 
The non-return-valve idea was talked about, QinteQ mentioned it to me a few weeks back when we were having a catch up in his lads garage and sounds a sensible idea if you think that's the issue, though it's more of a sticking-plaster solution than finding the root cause.
 
 
Also, anyone in the UK know where to source the fuel filter (rear edition beside tank) assembly so I can order one as thinking it's worth doing at some point.

Delighted to say that mine is now running well, starts first time both cold and hot so the filter housing and filter change fixed the problem for me. I've done about 700 miles and a good few runs, short and long, with no problems at all.
 
frogland,  When the housing was off and the filter removed, I could see some distortion of the membrane and some fine cracks. Re NRV, I don't know, AndyB2000 would have a better idea on that.

I just got this problem too.
Drove from Wales to Bolton on Fri.
Saturday morning the car started, ran for a few seconds then stalled.
The fuse for the fuel heater had blown. Unfortunately, no tools.
I called the AA they somehow got the car running, and I used it all day Sat.
Sunday morning the same issue as above. Fuse blown.
Called the AA again but this time the guy couldn't start the car, the fuse kept blowing.
I guess the fuel heater wiring has a short circuit.
I'm stuck in Bolton for exams and no Chrysler.
I have a mobile electrical guy coming tomorrow.
If he finds the fault, I will post it.
Meanwhile if anyone can shed a light on this problem it will be a great help.
I've printed Andy's post for the auto electrician.