mikebh8

If after first start works fine until next day when you have to spray iy again look for an injctor leaking, on youtube you eill find videos on how to test them. Hope iy helps.

Hi, are you sure you have a MAF and not a MAP sensor? MAF is usually after the air filter and MAP is on the engine, depending on the model the place differ. Hope it helps.

?!

Hi, does the side ones work? Looks like a blocked/broken flap. The cover along with the air vents is easy to remove, you could investigate further from there. There are two screws at the top and two at the bottom, the ones at the bottom you get to them by rimoving the trim above the ashtray. Hope it helps

Hi, yesterday the rear left brake pipe snapped ( luckily I was bleeding the brakes and not on the motorway) So I thought I search online for a replacement. For those that didn't know I wanted to share this: eurocarparts is selling it with 71.99 and carparts4less with 48.03. The point is that carparts4less belongs to Eurocarparts. Hope it helps and always keep an I on low prices.

Would make sense having it fed 12v permanent to a second socket but is wrong...I had a 99 grand voyager (which was actually 3.3 petrol) that came with twin electrics but both were ignition only. The second one is to keep the fridge and other electrics on while the caravan is connected to the car...not over night but only whilst moved from A to B or stationary with the engine running.Keep an eye on the battery if you have anything towing so it doesn't drain it.

OK, what size fuse comes with? Many gadgets come with fuses on but it is for porpuse, depending on the case. Even so, going to the engine bay means you want it hooked on the battery, I personally don't encourage that as the circuit will be always on and it will drain the battery. Get power from the ignition ( ACC, not necesarly from the barrel) and fit the fuse if you must. Hope it helps.

Not related to the topic but why did you have to go from the towbar to the front side of the car?!?! Everything needed for wiring a towbar is found at the back in the tail lights. Even more easy to wire the camdash ( assuming you want it wired on ignition), is to go around the dash to the 12v socket. If you want it to the engine bay just so you can add a fuse on it, it doesn't need one, you can use one of the existing circuits.

Hi, diesel cars are running with the battery removed, on petrol only some. Try, with the engine running, disconnecting the minus and then the plus see if it still runs. If it does stay on or not, it still points towards the alternator, check what voltage do you get with the engine running( on the battery terminals). Hope it helps.

Assuming it is a grand voyager, the wiper cover and motor comes off. You can drill a hole and use a grommet, or what I usually do is finding a ACC plus next to the rer view mirror and wire it there, if you use the inside lights make sure you connect before the switch. Hope it helps.

It shouldn't be a problem with a bit of DIY, just make sure the plus and negative are in the right place, it probably won't brake the pump but it will pull instead of push (or the other way around). Contact the seller and see if he/she has a plug too, then you can cut the wires and connect the new plug. Hope it helps.

When you say they drop, what do you mean? In intensity or angle with the road( motor)? Thanks.

Hi, obviously it varies from model to model. Best thing is to download "totalcarcheck" app and if you have the registration number it tells you the tax plus more useful info about the car and past MOTs. Hope it helpa

Hi, when you say connector you mean electrical or water? Some pictures would help. There was someone else with the same problem on the forum, is it definitely the pump?

While cranking the engine( it needs a second person or crocodile clamps) check if power goes to the starter. Hope it helps.

Hi, the thermostat is at the back of the engine, under the drive side wiper( note or less), for better access remove the wiper cover and motor enclosure. I had that on mine, same year and engine, same issue the thermostat blocked. Hope it helps

It shouldn't be a problem just look twice before connecting as the batteries are some with minus on left and plus on right and some the other way around. I still think is the starter, it probably needs replacing (or repaired).

Nice car...

If it comes from a same model it doesn't need "pairing". If it is from a different car that uses same type of sensor then yes it needs resetting. What happens now with it replaced? Try disconnecting the battery for 30-40 mins and see if works. Hope it helps.

Hi, try nocking the starter motor( a hammer handle or a piece of wood), with low temperatures the brushes get stiff sometimes, it is also a sign that needs lokked at. Hope it helps.

...I thought is fuel starvation on mine (different scenario but just an idea) at the end was a relay. What about autoshutdown relay not faulty but bad connection that leads to wrong information sent to the ecu... Just a thought as at this point not sure what to suggest.

...I have xenon lights on both low beam and high beam I don't see where the problem is as they work perfect. I'm away now(the car is home) soon as I will get back home I'll make a video... Only on some models, the ballast will cause the ecu to read it as a fault, not on grand voyagers.

Hi, on YouTube you will finalize videos how to make a n injector test leak. It involves four plastic cups (or similar) and four fine hoses to fit on to each injector's return. Try that as exactly that was happening to mine two winters ago.

It's exactly like mine: -The tool with red handle is for the tensioner pully( be careful as on mine the pins snapped, I fitted some screws in the holes) - the tool like a nidle is for the shaft balancer( only need it if the engine has been dismantled) - from bottom left first one is for the exauhst cam shaft( the one towards the car, the hole is near the thermostat) - second one left is for the intake camshaft( the hole is behind the alternator) Third one left is for the crankshaft( the hole is behind the starter thus needing to be removed) The other ones are for other engines like jeep Cherokee or different models of grand voyagers. If I may suggest: I shared an YouTube link with a Russian guy doing a cam belt replacement which is very useful (is somewhere in my posts) After making sure everything is locked, I undone the camshafts bolts, doing that it makes it very easy to put the new one up, but when tightened them back on pit something between the pullies to block them for twisting( for the exauhst cam above and for the intake cam below, I used a small ratchet extension) also remember to get the wipers cover and motor casing out to have more room to put the exauhst blocking pin. And while you're there do the water pump too. Any more questions, please ask if I don't know I'm sure someone in here will give you an answer. Hope it helps.

It can be done, I found few videos on YouTube on how to, even old remote from a different car (same model). I also have a T300, recently purchased so I didn't have time to go through all the options, however with the car's security code can be done( I only tried it to a VW beetle until now so I don't know if all the manufactures locked the ECU with a security pin). More uptades will be posted once I will more time to play with it.