mikebh8

I explained in post #2, also when you remove the key it resets, the same with the radio you remove the key with radio on mute and when you pit the key back in the volume is back on.

You mean the bulb itself or the whole fitting? Eurocarparts does a variety of bulb or eBay for the whole lot. Hope it helps.

I though is the inside one too but he is actually talking about the main fan in the engine bay, am I rght Frogland?

That is abnormal, does the water temp gauge indicate right? Also, if one of the relays, you asked about in the other post, is broken (shorten) the fans will start and stay always on until key is removed (I don't remember if it does it only with the engine on or even with just the ignition on.

Tonight do this: after a half an hour an hour trip, disconnect the battery terminal and che k tomorrow what voltage do you get. Is the battery good?

I didn't have time to take mine apart to post a picture but it should have a wire there with an electronic component, I can't say if it is resistor or not. If you search it online you could see it. Hope it helps.

When you crank the engine, the ACC( including fan) turn off. there isn't any switch apart from the heating/ventilating switch.

Try to find your model in the link below. It is a manual with pictures and detailed texts which I found very useful. http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service%20Manuals/

If is 12.5v after one overnight it is something wrong with the electrics. I bet if left two three days it does not start anymore, if I were you I would investigate further... As per the fault code, have you ruled out the sensor first, I don't remember exactly but I gave these tests to someone else as well: -pin 3 and 5(plug disconnected) testing the maf sensor you should have 336000 ohmi with 18 Celsius outside -4 and 5 disconnected testing the maf sensor you should have 340000 ohmi -2 and earth disconnected testing the supply( wiring) with ignition on you should have 11-14 v -3 and 4 plug connected engine at idle you should have 5v 3 and 5 plug connected engine at idle you should have 1.6v Same fault code applies for the turbocharger boost pressure sensor and test is as per below: -pin 1 and 4 connected and engine at idle you should have 1.6v -pin 1 and 4 connected engine at 2500 rpm you should have 2v. Hope it helps.

@@ben, could you please have a look at the "unreplied" section? If one of the unreplied topics is related to Chrysler it will never get answered. Thank you.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong! The long wheel base is grand voyager and the short wheel base is voyager which is about 30cm shorter. Mine is long base (if I'm right) and is not stow'n'go. So I guess if you have a grand voyager the longer cable will do. Or buy both and when you removed yours from the car match the one you need and return the other one Hope it helps.

Hi, I'm not sure on your Sebring but on a mini (with the same concept) that are located near the camshafts sprockets, you should see wires near there, is removed with a 10mm socket. They look more or less like the one in the link below: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=sebring+vvt+oil+valve+location&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjy1bj2wLHZAhXRWsAKHQHvA10Q_AUIESgB&biw=360&bih=560&dpr=2#imgrc=gDKXf0xLpKb-oM: Hope it helps.

If you mean pairing the phone, does the link below help? https://youtu.be/a53nNN9L4k8

Could you please explain the hone problem? I didn't get it...what do you mean with "when phone touched on screen nothing happens", you mean the phone icon on the display?

...you took an injector from a 3.3 (petrol) and tried to fit it on a 2.5 (diesel)?!?! You pushed the car around, did you hear any compression, it could be piston rings loosing compression. If indeed piston banged the injector, you could have a cracked piston. Try turn it by hand from the crankshaft, if it doesn't spin the piston/s are sized, if it does spin but there is no compression is one or more piston rings. If you have compression and the engine turns by hand OK, it could be that the different injector (not by appearance but by the inside parts set on different values) kicked in the auto shutdown?! Hope it helps.

From the description it looks love me is coming with the laptop. It should also have a Delphi CD, if not that one if you buy a different one they are sent with a CD. What I did, I saved the files into an external hard drive(just to make sure I don't lose them). Ever since I use a USB stick to copy paste from one laptop/hard drive to another. Just remember as Andyb2000 noticed as well, remove any antivirus and/or firewall as it will send some of the files into quarantine or delete them. The Delphi is not defecult to install, other programs needed for cars or for the car's software to run are a bit difficult to deal with. Depending on the xp version running on the laptop it might not work, in that case try xp pro sp3 or windows 7, for that to install on your laptop, make a bootable USB (minimum 4Gb) with rufus and on the boot settings make USB boot as primary choice. Hope it helps.

The price is not for the £25 laptop I used or for the used Delphi vci. The laptop has software installed that some people don't even know exist, when I first post it on Facebook, due to copyrights, the ad was removed...in theory the copyright issue is now solved. I actually rejected a £200 offer. However, fell free to chose from a variety of gadgets available on the market. Victorthevoyager, my apologies if somehow the topic when off its main purpose.

BTW... I'm selling my laptop and software if anyone is interested, could deliver(depending where). Is advertised on Facebook market with 250. Thanks.

The software I uploaded on Dropbox is just a generic list. The one below is delphi you need: https://alexnld.com/product/delphi-ds150e-autocom-cdp-professional-auto-cdp-for-autocom-diagnostic-car-cables-obd2-diagnostic-tool/?gclid=CjwKCAiAn5rUBRA3EiwAUCWb2-5VFfadD0izFGFTVsQaNG5Iw2-xePh2wx2s83B66IvyP9NJbkQLLBoCIOUQAvD_BwE It comes with the CD as well. Delphi would tell the fault, location and tests like injector ticking or rear wiper. The other one will tell you more related to technical data, like tightening torques, oil intervals, sensors value and more. ...I don't know why would you need to read the VIN number?!?! On mine it doesn't even have the diesel version, but it still reads every fault if any. Mind that a SnapOn (a lot of money) couldn't see a fault when Delphi displayed it. Hope it helps.

From 300c will fit, I had them on mine, don't forget to get the spacers as it is a must for front wheel arch and rear brake pipes.

What car, year model?

Try the battery, after a long trip (more than 30 mins) measure the battery voltage, disconnect the battery and next day check what voltage do you have...if is a bad battery it may cure the hard starting issue.

Good to know for future us, I replaced as it was due to MOT.

Is something to do with the built up pressure under the rocker cover, I think (after a bit of google) it's called PCV, positive crankcase ventilation. The valve that is in top of the rocker cover should be inspected and cleaned every once in a while Hope it helps.

It could be an electric fault, mine on some portions of the road it will lock the doors..even after going over 20-30 mph, I'm sure is a faulty wire somewhere bit didn't have the time.