gordy

Your GV should get to 1/2 on the gauge - does it ?
 
Leedsman
 
Battery

Can't quite believe what I'm reading here about putting sludge coolant back in, saying engine knackered, etc...And its running ok...Just overheating like blocked radiator that QintQ many a time has said using wrong coolant causes this. I take it the top coolant hoses have been bleed of all air.

Hey up guys yes you're both correct, Sachs self levelling - Nivomat - and replacements are available but bloody expensive.
Those are a load bigger diameter body than usual hey Andy!!
 
I got a set of 4 bushes from Jeep Chrysler parts last year for £40, plus I invested in new tool for the garage - a 12 ton press for £90 off ebay hee hee - the Mrs took the piss something rotten - again. Probably a 6 ton would have been fine, but hardly any price difference so lets go large!!!
 
Or there are some KYB options on Rockauto at £163 each, 2 mopar ones left at £154 each. Plus carriage and import duty of course.
 
Better than last year when I could only find them about £200 each - making the press plus bushes a bargain investment.
 
It's not that bad a job with a press - press out the centre piece, use a junior hacksaw so I could get the blade in the middle, cut the rubber out, cut 2 slots in the outer metal of (whats left in my case) the bush, belt that bit out, clean it up and press the new ones in. Doddle.....
 
So then as you say the shocks look like they are not long for this world, if the KYB you have are the same overall length, and only a tiny bit shorter on the shaft for suspension travel, so hopefully shouldn't bottom out before the bump stop, and they were cheap enough, it would in my world be worth a "suck it and see" experiment.
 
And you could then have a look at those originals at your leisure!!

Thanks both of you. jeepchyrslerparts confirmed what I thought, it's the replacement self-levelling (They can't supply) I've been quoted over 700 for them, apparently they are patented so Mopar distro only available. Urgh!
I've also wondered about a press for the garage, and it's mainly been the wife holding me back since my garage subtly keeps getting more and more repair gear in it over time ;-) I might sneak one in eventually if I spot a bargain, but for now other costs are piling up and it's headed towards Xmas at a rather alarming rate.
 
I'm gonna go for the pair of KYB as they're pretty close, managed to get the pair for £100 so going to stick them on and see how it behaves, at least it's not the earth if they fall apart prematurely, but will keep an eye on them and will report back after fitting and initial tests to see how it goes as an alternative.
 
(BTW as an aside, read up on self levelling shock absorbers, rather clever little devices when you stop and think how they work)

- used a capable M18 + big battery, lotsa high rothenburger gas, black grade socket and a scafee bar over a 1 yard snap on bar, did it but it was a pig, even with 5 spring compressors couldn't get them down so i had to borrow a foot operated automotive hydraulic commercial spring compressor,you would never know / see how bad they were till you completely disassemble !  

Thanks you  I give it a go not much left but it was quiet before shocks were done could be new position let you know soon thanks again. Bumble

Regarding the fail point on mine, the hole in cill is directly below the seatbelt anchor point.

Oh just a bit of info chaps, the body of the diesel steering pump is the same - I've had both on my bench - but with a different pulley and inlet pipe connection.
The pipe is easy enough to get off and swap, but the pulley is a completely different matter - ruddy impossible without the correct tools.
 
Rock Auto USA will sell you the body for a lot less than we can get them over here!!

May I add something here after readig it....Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh F/n Helllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll....Sorry....

May I add something here after readig it....Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh F/n Helllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll....Sorry....

May I add something here after readig it....Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh F/n Helllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll....Sorry....

Hic Burp niceee brew...Ahhhhh worst bit now after cleaning up top hat rear discs. Discs, shoes and pads were ok even though I got new ones. Adjusting these rear shoes so Handbrick works before MOT on Thursday coming....
Now I've studied the handbrake screw adjusters and how they work and its a limp wrist movement with screwdriver in the hole of the back plate to take up slack. Then check if handbrake works and how well...
And no its not adjusted equal sides as I've found, offside with its longer brake cables has to come on first to make it work...
Handbrake cables at mo loose as loose as I've got my 4mm drill in hold back slots...
I deserve more beer for this dilemma.... 

I didn't find my pictures from last year till not long ago so thought I would add it on this thread. Was doing top hat strut bearing at the time so took pictures. As I remember it was mentioned on here that other guys don't have these elongated holes on their struts to allow for adjustment. I just replaced mine back in same position where nut had left a mark. 
Being drilling and tapping out a Jounce buffer 8mm stud that had sheared in today...No direct drilling due to axle dead below makes it harder...Having extra beer to console myself now.... 

Piston Ring blowby..Need a compression test done on all the cylinders..

Piston Ring problem here by words of it..Severe blowby that's for sure..Would have thought Turbo seals but engine pressurising...Undertaker imminent...

Thanks again everybody - such a knowledgeable forum!! The cars been running absolutely fine since the repair and my paranoia has also calmed down ha! So far so good x

Hiya @Bexb8188 any progress on your car?
 
Has it - so far - been behaving itself since the last event and fix?

ps listen to gordy and andy 
they a geniuses very very knowledgeable and helped me more than enough times with there advice 
thumbs up fellas  

It won't start. Does that mean its turning over but not firing. If it is its a fuel pressure fault. Like bignev says air in system, Injectors leaking too much or pressure bypass on rail...

And Poland !

Well no4 sounds like engine mounts as on shutting down there is possibly no rubber on one mount, like front one that gets hammered.
No1/2 could be hot start plugs or power to them.
Belts, well, two prices, Chrysler dealer will want £125+/hr for labour. Independents down to £75/hr. Its a four hour jobby. Five years ago Chrysler wanted £650. But got mine for £450 independent. 
If there's screw holes on dash anywhere its been an Airport Posh Taxi and probably been round the moon. But mine was one, 225k miles plus and after 5 years been the best car on 50 odd plus I've had.  
Get the Auto box serviced oil & inside filter.
Oh and how's the Handbrake, does it hold at all.
Good Luck...

Check the Alternator itself, as mine had the problem and I have heard a few others. Alternator seems to work ok but when bearings become dry it makes this odd high pitched noise when idling..

Try exhaust bandage. Repaired a few leaks in mine a few years back. Need to check for more before next MOT..

Crankshaft sensor usually shows its head when it heats up, sending back wobbled-DE-goop voltages to the ECU...Then when it cools down it seems ok, until !

Yes I've got your bigger battery choice as well, having to cut a bit of battery tray out. Worth while job. I got rid of my battery drain problem by turning off interior lights at the adjuster wheel every time I get out.
P0235 still on going with my car, goes into temp limp mod if I boot it. Thought to be over-boost with Turbo waste-gate not being operated by the actuator. Had the complete shutdown issue on booting it but Boost sensor sorted that.