Coolant Pipes

[bluelandcruiser]

hi all, wonder if anyone can help me have a 08 chrysler voyager 2.8crd auto. i have been given an advisory on its test that the long coolant pipes that run under the drivers seat and run the length of the car need replacing but its like finding hens teeth, has anyone bought any and where. also my thermostat is wandering around and shows the car is heating up intermittently. i have had the system drained and flushed new coolant done, but still doing it, not quite as much though any advice greatly appreciated 

[bignev]

I bought the rear heater and AC pipe set for our 2005 Stow n Go a couple of years ago from a Main dealer in Barnsley, Pentagon.

 

The temp gauge may be related to a stuck thermostat, very common on the previous version diesel with the same engine.

Edited June 28, 2017 by bignev

[bluelandcruiser]

had a guy look at the car today and he says loads of sludge in the coolant, bought a replacement thermostat but he said nowhere on it to put the temperature sensor and says the head gasket is likely blown so old thermostat back on and he put the old coolant back in so still got a wandering temperature gauge any recommendations for the motor or has it had its chips, the guy who checked it says that he wont touch it i am in the Durham area can anyone help. 

[bignev]

Oooh doesn't sound too good.

 

But it was ok when you had the coolant changed, how long ago was that?

 

I don't know where the stat is on the 08 model, but the previous is a swine to get at, I have heard!

So the super method is to fit a Renault 4 one in the coolant hose to the rad. See Andy Browns video link on this forum somewhere for the job he did on his.

I'm a bit confused what he means by "nowhere to put the temp sensor" as the stat fits in a housing so a little lost why there could be a problem. If yours came in a housing, why not just use the stat from it? It may not be possible of course.

And he put the old "sludged" coolant back in?????? WHAT?

 

However, usually there will also be milky white cack in the oil if the head gasket goes, oil goes into the coolant also coolant gets into the oil. Visible through the oil filler or possibly on the dip stick.

 

@@andyb2000 and @@QinteQ I believe you guys are up that neck of the woods?

Edited July 5, 2017 by bignev

[bluelandcruiser]

the stat is in the housing but were assuming it was stuck shut hence the overheating issues, the car is in good nick and drives fine bar this wandering thermostat. Dont know wether to try and get the thermostat which is the right one for the car if the head gasket is knackered as throwing money at an uneconomical repair possibly. We had it to a garage last week for drain flush and coolant change they never mentioned any gunk in fluid but suggested the problem with the thermostat rising was still there and needed investigating.I was at work and could not take it back to them so a local lad had a look and said when he had removed hose from radiator no fluid had come out at all as this gunk was blocking it up, he tried to change the stst and it was wrong one so said he had cleared pipes at front of vehicle and said head gasket has gone. Sick as a chip because love the car but dont want to throe thousands of pounds into it as its probably not worth that.We did have a problem that the service manual said 6 litres of oil and this caused blue smoke bur we did remove the excess oil as the manual for the car is wrong.

[QinteQ]

They're designed never to stick closed always open. There are no diesel manuals, see here for the full Chrysler's own manuals set including diesels. Best of luck.

[bluelandcruiser]

no residue in the oil looks normal gonna see if i can get a second opinion don.t want to give up on the car just yet and shes still running

[mikebh8]

Hi, mine was blocked the way that water wouldn't go through radiator, but pressure built up. Top radiator pipe was very hard and the lower one came off.

On the gasket you would see oil in the expansion bottle or water in the oil. Very rearly the water would go in the combustion chamber and it will be pushed out through the exhaust, but eventually the piston rings will fail and water will go into oil.

Also, what about the fan/s, when the water is above 85-90, can you hear them kick in?

I would go for a thermostat.

Hope it helps.

Edited July 5, 2017 by mikebh8

[QinteQ]

Quick 'n effective is an inline statMOD

 

Inline stat, £10 + 10 minutes.

Air dam lagging, £1 + 10 minutes.
Battery mod, 20p + 5 minutes. 

[bluelandcruiser]

yes fans are running fine can hear them

[gordy]

Can't quite believe what I'm reading here about putting sludge coolant back in, saying engine knackered, etc...And its running ok...Just overheating like blocked radiator that QintQ many a time has said using wrong coolant causes this. I take it the top coolant hoses have been bleed of all air.

[QinteQ]

Yes I have constantly bleated that gordy .. ..  and one main reason for my conclusion ! As a lifelong self-maintainer I would have fought anyone accusing me of less than 'super diligent' maintenance yet when I did a complete [oil] [water] [brake fluid] [autobox] change of all wets I was mortified to find a lumpy carrots and tatties in the coolant. Unless you yourself have maintained it from brand new, and none of us will have always assume all three are well knackered. The brake fluid is hydroscopic, the wrong cheepo oil  / filters and coolant is always used by both garages and pet fitters. Do your car a favour, this trilogy of fluids are your lifeblood. Never backflush a RAD, always use HOAT, it will self bleed from the expansion bottle, always open the heater to full belt and change the fluid in the matrix. Best of luck.

 

HOAT only coolant

ATF+4 only Mopar Spec AutoBox oil

[QinteQ]

The R 428 which is the 2.8 engine has wet liners and can run without problems on 5W40 / 10W40 etc, personally I run on 5W40 viscosity. We often get below 5°C- but hardly ever more than 35/8 °C in these islands.

[andyb2000]

Have to agree here, I'm not buying the experts opinions here. However my own experience may help

(For an 04/05 though but same principles)

My last GV had an issue, engine oil warning light on a long drive, limped it to destination and filled up with oil and didn't check properly (My bad, I was at work and had to do stuff/be places). 6-12 months later and I'm checking fluids and spot oil in the water bottle, think film on the top. To check it get a bit of kitchen roll and dip it in. If it's got the shiny oil covering then you've got oil in there.

As it turns out I had a crack in the block, which was difficult to find/diagnose (Had head off, pressure testing before the garage it was at.. A Chrysler dealership actually spotted the crack in the block itself).

 

So my thinking, check the water yourself, look for anything like the above, take photos if you want and post here we'll all have a look for you (You're in Durham too, dare say I could have a lookie over if you want another GV owners opinion since you're in this region).

Sludge in coolant could be somebody in the past using a stop-leak radiator fixer which is notorious for causing sludge and also blocking/restricting water flow which as the other guys say sounds the biggest culprit.

 

I'd say go for another flush, it's relatively easy to do yourself with a hose and popping various hoses in the engine bay off to flush it out to see if you're still getting sludge, it can be pretty stubborn to get rid of, especially as it gets caught in the heater matrix for cabin heater, etc.

 

Good luck and drop me a msg if you do want another local pair of eyes on it!

[steve9128]

It's mentioned about air dam lagging, could someone explain how to do this please, first voyager I've had heating problems with. Thank you (2.5crd, 2003)

[QinteQ]

See "screwfix" in this thread.