Whistling Noise

[tomada3]

hi have v6 grand voyager have noise from rear  of car  when going round roundabout to the right have had rear bearings checked all ok

when going right round roundabout sounds like whistling canary but on applying brake when turning noise disappears

sounds like high pitch squeal

it seems to happens when engine at operating temp never noticed it from cold 

have roundabout within 5 minutes of home doesnt happen on this one next roundabout about 2 miles away from home on my way to work happens here 

any ideas 

thought it might be handbrake shoes rubbing on inside of disc but surely this would happen all the time

had new pads all round 2 months ago 

tried to adjust handbrake before the noise started 

i reveresed car slowly and pulled up handbrake 8 times as heard this could adjust shoes

no joy in adjusting 

[tomada3]

hi when i had my car moted after my rear end bump spoke to mot tester about the noise he said could be bearing making noise when its under load turning right and when apply brake it takes pressure off

so i have ordered parts 

i got 2 rear hub and bearing assembly ( gonna replace both sides )

rear pads discs handbrake shoes

handbrake repair kit

and front disc pads

thought might as well do job lot as gotta takes brakes off to do bearings ( gonna replace front brakes as well even though pads only 10 months old )

ordered parts from jeepchrysler parts off ebay 

costing me £233 for all parts 

the pads are ceramic 

gonna get done this week 

will let you know if it does trick

[bignev]

Hi there, seems good money to me for that lot!

My guess would have been the disc pad JUST touching the disc making the noise instead of the bearing, but same result anyway, cause being the bearing having a tiny bit of play.

Good luck with the job, my rear discs were a git to remove because of the handbrake shoes.

And these not so lightweight automatic cars do have an appetite for front pads hey!

My mrs kills them faster than my 3.5 ton van does!!!

Nev

[QinteQ]

In general the brakes and all suspension parts on these cars need an upgrade rather than just replacement. I've said many times, the brakes ..... all of them are a useless and underrated throwback to the American old she brake - pre-disk ratings requirement as is evidenced by the fact that at the same weight of vehicle the Dodge Chrysler Jeep stable enjoy the safety and performance of bigger 310's all round as a minimum from 2008. The 310's have a healthy aftermarket upgrade supply the 302's never did and 7 years on never will. I did my back brakes a couple of month ago REM and they were disgusting, embarrassing even, my bet would be that many many people are driving on rivets, rusted to hell and back and have been for years because most of us never pull the hat and certainly a garage won't go to that much extra trouble. Bottom line - apart from the obvious is that a complete small parts bag change, liberal copperslip, and a complete back to bright metal is and essential need before a pads and shoes are fitted. 

 

The Voyager clock-spring is often a last resort on handbrick adjustment.

 

 http://i.imgur.com/VBKOhXq.jpg

 

For the 'pull' adjustment I always :

 

- car in park

- engine on

- footbrake hard on [centring]

- then 5 or 6 very hard yuks on the handbrick lever to adjust the clockspring compensator as well as the shoes~in~hat

 

Take care folks.

[tomada3]

got friend of a friend whose mobile mechanic only gonna charge me £150 to do that includes oil and filter

getting done this friday 

only use magnatec oil fully synthetic 

got oil and filter ( 5 litres )

from euro car parts £37.45p

do my oil and filter every 3 months regardless of mileage 

[QinteQ]

I only do about 2.5k max per annum and do oil & filter every 3 years whether it wants it or not I always use the best fully synth. I bought x4 5 litre bottles about 3 years ago of the Asda Gold [widely regarded as Castrol made] stuff at half the price of Castrol Edge while it was going cheap, did an oil change and I've still got x3 bottles left - how I wish we could all get our hands on more of that 'right price'. Give your engine the best and expect the best in return, that of course is change frequency dependant, if 'tomada3' is on a 13 week cycle that's expensive but we each decide what is critical to us.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v25/stationmiek/photo/P1010554.jpg

 

[QinteQ]

fffffffffffffff

Edited January 26, 2016 by QinteQ

[Semmysonic]

I really wouldn't bother with the extra expence of fully synthetic in anything other than high performance engine (made to tighter tolerances and run hotter) semi synthetic is more than adequate for normal engines.

[tomada3]

hi had work done noise gone 

getting discs off nightmare 

discs were fused to hub ending up taking off hub and disc together then hitting with hammer to separate as the back plate had handbrake adjuster cable attached took 2hrs to do rear of car

handbrake only goes quarter way up used to go all way up result

[bignev]

Yep, sounds just like my rear discs.

Didn't have to take hub off though, managed to back off the adjuster, and get brutal with a lump hammer on the discs.

[QinteQ]

We all get caught out, mine had just sailed through test two weeks earlier, excellent hand and footbrick rear axle % efficiency figures, then one day :

 

- heard a ping and found the OSR had 'spit out' a rusted pad, this pad had meat on it but had sheared from its backing altogether

- stripped everything but the backplate and replaced with brand new disks, pads, shoes and a small parts set

- every surface was 'finger filed' clean and copper or nickel greased depending on the surface

- bled through and both pistons go on but would not retract - at all - suspect the dot 4 / 3 fluid is older than me and full of solids

- desperation, had to force the pistons off to free spinning wheel and clamp the brake lines with heavy duty mole grips

- I suspect those pistons have been in a stuck all the way out position for many many years

 

Farming out services will always mean you never see yourself and never know what the true state of your brakes are particularly the handbrake because its not visual even when the wheel is off. Its my contention that a huge proportion of Voyagers have almost  no handbrake, little footbrake efficiency for this weight, useless and hydroscopic fluid and seized brake parts particularly after 5 years and most of the cars on this site are even older than 10.

 

Pad / disk self alignment on modern motors including our GV's tend to be single piston floating caliper as opposed to posh cars with fixed multiple caliper. In this case we are talking floating alignment with integrated parking brake 'top hat' hardware . Pressure on anti-lock accumulators have an old and new school opinion on 'how to', (1) old school is the usual hard on the pedal and turn the bleed screw (2) new school says clamp the hose to stop debris back flushing up to the master cylinder - I'm old school because putting a megga clamp on a hose can damage the hose itself a cause of inner liner collapse [acting like an unwanted check valve] preventing the master cylinder from releasing the fluid pressure from within the caliper. However in my case I had to clamp because they were locked in death grip. Clearly what must have been happening was the pistons were working well enough to pass the VOSA test and retracted just enough microns so as not to bind. When the pistons were pushed back in with reasonable force to accommodate the thickness of the new pads the became locked on like the taxmans death grip and would not release.

 

Older sods like me should always remind ourselves that modern motors do not like the pistons being fully pushed in, and particularly fully pushed out all the way. Modern brakes have extra delicate and expensive components in the form of ABS and expensive ABS modulators which are easily damaged by the back-flush of debris caused when caliper pistons are shoved all the way in. Much better to bleed an excessive amount of fluid through the nipple to release the back-flush, additionally the new for old fluid top up replaces the efficacy of fluid which has been 'boiled' by heat transfer from piston to fluid as well as the hydroscopic effect of the fluid itself. Here are the rear's from both sides of the disk pads so we can all learn from my mistake. Any one of you might be relying on these if you pay and trust others to do the job for you. I confess I'm more than embarrassed. I'm a light~of~foot driver and never had a brake stopping distance problem but you can see for yourself that the metal rot from enough salty UK winters and neglect caused by poor diligence on the part of paid for mechanics meant the little glazed friction material outlasted the metal.

 http://i.imgur.com/M639LLd.jpg

 http://i.imgur.com/WX32sWt.jpg