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1St Post, Need Help With Starting/cutting Out Issues.


jembutler
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Hi all, i have a 2006 Grand Voyager 2.8crd, last winter it became very difficult to start (3 or 4 attempts every morning) and i presumed it was glow plugs, never bothered getting them done and during the summer months fired up 1st time everytime. Now back in winter difficulties started again, this only happens in the morning, if I drive to work it wont struggle to start again all day even if left for 8 hours! , so i took it in to a garage and had the glow plugs replaced, no difference!!

 

So this week after some advice i bought a new fuel pressure relief valve and fitted it yesterday. Primed the system back up and it fired up (took a couple of attempts) all seemed fine, went out last night and was travelling along about 20 - 30mph and then put my foot down and nothing, engine cut out and i coasted to a halt. Left it for 30 seconds and it started again no problem, this happened a few times on my way back home.

 

Today i have refitted the old releif valve and it has stopped the cutting out??? 

 

Can anyone help as to how I can sort this or do I have to put with either bad starting or cutting out?

 

Many thanks

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The engine mount beneath the air box should be earthed, it is just a 10 cm metal strip from the bit that is attached to the engine to the bit that sits on the body. I had problems with that too, I fitted a 10mm earth wire with eye crimps at each end.

I was looking at that Earth strap at thinking it looked a bit light !

 

How many earth points are there ?

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Summary and up -date

 

I have been through a cycle of issues to do with starting.(dial sweep and then poor starting)

 

Initially I charged battery. Some improvement for a day or so.

 

Then I replaced rail pressure valve (immediate improvement)

 

Then after a while it (a few months) it wouldn't start so well (needed a few attempts) and recharging battery didn't work. So I replaced the battery like for like. That worked for a while......but then it stated to cut out when driving, so replaced fuel filter housing. No improvement, so changed injectors (£1400). Immediate improvement to cut out problem....then the starting problem returned (dials doing a sweep and not starting first time)

...so I  replaced battery with a much more powerful battery (£300 worth of battery) Immediate improvement.

 

1 year later (now) I get dial sweep and poor starting again (dial sweep and 3 or 4 attempts to start)......even after a full charge of the battery.

So I am looking at parasitic drains now.

Have removed fuse for stereo amplifier, but no difference.

 

Does anyone know how to isolate / disable the tracker, as I have heard that is a potential cause of a battery drain?

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see here. I further adjusted the batteryMOD : 

 

I did a further mod and changed the the 33K Ω @ 1/2 watt to 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt keeps it under the 4.6[ish] [although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher]. I did get the extra .3's @ 14.4+ I was aiming for. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs. That thread is here and I can confirm that I had 14.5-6V over the winter and its now an average of 14.3-4V summer.

 
Best of luck.....
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see here. I further adjusted the batteryMOD : 

 

I did a further mod and changed the the 33K Ω @ 1/2 watt to 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt keeps it under the 4.6[ish] [although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher]. I did get the extra .3's @ 14.4+ I was aiming for. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs. That thread is here and I can confirm that I had 14.5-6V over the winter and its now an average of 14.3-4V summer.

 
Best of luck.....

 

Hi QinteQ,

Thank you for your reply. I'll be honest, I don't have the level of understanding to interpret your answer, so not sure what I am supposed to do (in laymans terms) I think i just need a good Automotive Electrical Mechanic to fault find for me, but i will show them your findings to help fast track the issue. 

I really thought I had nailed it with the new battery as it got me right through the winter with no trouble at all. It is as if the parasitic drain had gone away and has now come back.

 

Anyway thanks again for trying to help.

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HiYa SJC.

 

No one has a clue.

 

Where you want to get to depends on filling in the bit between where you start and finish.

.1. We don't know for example what battery you had and which new battery you bought/fitted.

.2. We don't know where the sparky plumbed in the tracker [or any other detail] etc

 

I have regularly stated 800CCA @ 80aH. If you started with an underpowered CCA and replaced it with [puts you in the excellent virgin lead Odyssey 770CCA 95aH] £300 range.

 

dial sweep and then poor starting is battery

cutting out when driving suggests fuel delivery LP side first

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See this post :http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/398-egr-valve-leaking-28crd-grand-voyager-2006-auto/?do=findComment&comment=1586

 

There's a manual hand lift pump about centre between RAD and engine block.

 

- it should be already hard when you 1st go out in the morning

- if it takes more than 1 push you have an LP issue

- - white plastic water trap is loose/diesil filter

- - Muppet put new 0 ring on top of old/diesel filter

- - dirty diesil filter

- - leak-back

 

Battery or fuel easy to test. Best of luck.

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We had the cutting out and total loss of power in our 2007 2.8 CRD

Numerous trips to various garages - fuel filter housing fuel heater wires and EGR valve checked and replaced abroad on holiday. Nothing worked and we kept getting total loss of power until I took it to a diesel specialist who said the fuel rail needed to be reconditioned/repaired.

It’s not been a problem since thankfully

Edited by wherry
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