bignev

Hi,
Best to post anything direct to Chrysler voyager thread,I have a delta and was told the same at first

Thanks , done what you said , found the joint had come apart , washer working now , a 10 min job that I have not got around to for a few years now

Thanks again for the help, these cars look very flexible with the most space in their class. I used to own a 1989 jeep cherokee that had the most comfortable seat I've used in a car which I'm really needing due to arthritis effecting more and more joints. I rarely do more than 5k miles a year so even economy isn't much of an issue to me. Nows it trying to find one that I can test drive under present conditions then to the best that my limited budget can stretch to.

Update time, if anyone is interested   
At cold start (now on warmer days), voltage has again started fluctuating up & down & there is now a sqeaking noise that sounds like it's coming from the alternator. After a couple of minutes, the noise goes away & voltage stabilizes.
So it's not the brushes or any weak electrical link, it's obviously the alternator bearings......so new alternator it is then

New Delco Remy 180 amp alternator £198 +VAT, & they require your old alternator in exchange as well    That's a shocking price for an alternator, but then again, it's a big car with a big appetite
Anyway, alternator now replaced & all seems good.
Took a couple of days at a leisurely pace with lots of tea breaks. Did the taking out from the top method as opposed to the workshop manual method (the underneath method) & it was probably alot easier & less back breaking, but probably just as time consuming.
One positive thing though about doing it from the top, is that you get to remove the throttle & it's attached plastic manifold thingy (don't know the correct name for it) & see how much oil & caked on carbon is actually in there & how much this build up of crap is actually affecting performance. I spent a bit of time cleaning all the soot & oil out & the car now seems to breath a little better & be a bit more responsive

Okay, for any other folk on here with the same issue, the answer is as above. I took the old girl for a re-test after giving it a good 25 mile thrash, and got it nice and hot with no smoke coming out at all. 
 
Fortunately with the new Control Arm Bush fitted, and the smoke cured, it passed, and lives for another year 

Hi there!
So a few questions rather than answers:
Has it ever worked? If not then you need an auto locksmith to make it talk to the car. Even a second hand one can be matched, I had it done.
 
Do you have another fob that does work? If so, back to the comment above.
 
But - you say it doesn't work the central locking - does it operate the sliding doors and boot? 
 
Have you tried disconnecting the battery for half an hour to give the ECU and BCM (Body Control Module) a reset?
 
My fobs do have the panic button, and it works, but I've got pattern cases and they came with the button, I can't remember if the original didn't it was 4 years ago I swapped them after the markings wore off the 1st ones. So I got a couple of extras from China, cheap as you like as it didn't matter they took 6 weeks to get here.

You are right the handbrake does not auto tighten. there is a blanking grommet in the bottom of the rear disk back plate that allows access to the adjuster. with the wheel off the ground tighten each one until the wheel binds with the handbrake two clicks up. the hand brake on GV's is poor at the best of times so don't expect too much. The cable in the cabin should not need tightening and definitely shouldn't be used to adjust the brakes.

Okay, carried on and prised out the Bush, it had to come out one way or another, and with that out the sub frame was lowered and the Arm came out.
 
Old Bush off, new one on, well on once I spent a long time cleaning the inside of it out of over-rubberisation (note to self - do not but cheap eBay replacement parts), and now all back together   .
 
Now to address the other thing it failed on, smoky engine bay  .
 
 

Finally got the job done, the lip on top of the new liner measured the same as the old one but the shoulder that sits in the block was thinner, I got various thickness shims in the kit so just measured the old liner and shim and set the new to the same, when I set it into the block it was flush  
I had the cylinder head resurfaced / ground the valves in / new stem seals/ and had to replace 1 x hydraulic lifter / piston rings / connecting rod bolts  , putting it all back together was straight forward I played on the side of caution with having the head resurfaced and used a 2 hole cylinder head gasket as the valves are proud of the head .
I have replaced water pump and all pulleys with the new cam belt,   with the crank and cams locked with pins I lined up the pump marks then clamped the belt to pump and cam gears with wooden clothes pegs to stop belt moving while I set the belt tension
When I finally got all the plumbing back together and with a fully charged battery as soon as I got diesel up to the injectors it fired right up , I have had it running for about 1 hour coolant level stays fine temp gauge goes to just under half heater works better than it ever has , at the exhaust it runs very clean now

I created two entries by mistake so I decided to update both with the success.
 
After 2 weeks the post arrived and I got my Car Key Express Simple Key package which is a programable unit that connects to ODBii connection and a Primary Key that Activates (binds) the unit with your car.  I also ordered an additional Key which does not need activation/Bind but does need pairing.

I watched the You tube video couple of times. It looked too damn simple and it was.  After 5 minutes I had two FULLY WORKING key fobs.  ALL buttons including boot lid and slide doors work same as my original key which means I have 3 working keys. 
 
One of the keys also came with an additional Fob button so if the contacts wear off, I can just replace it with that.  That actually happened to my TV remote and it was a pain to get another remote.
 
Next step: Find a shop that can also cut the pull out key for petrol tank.  Honestly I cannot understand why Chrysler has a physical key for petrol tank when a push button with release cable inside the car would be more logical like Fords.   

I highly recommend this company and his product and Service.  Absolutely superb but just email him first and give him your VIN number so he can send you the correct package for the right year.  The postage is a pain at $35 to UK but honestly two fully working fobs and a programable unit that can make 6 more for $179 (including shipping) is actually very good.   

Considering what the dealer charges,  I am very thankful for the service.   
 
PS:  I do NOT work for this company and they deserve my gratitude    Mahyar

After 2 weeks the post arrived and I got my Car Key Express Simple Key package which is a programable unit that connects to ODBii connection and a Primary Key that Activates (binds) the unit with your car.  I also ordered an additional Key which does not need activation/Bind but does need pairing.

I watched the You tube video couple of times. It looked too damn simple and it was.  After 5 minutes I had two FULLY WORKING key fobs.  ALL buttons including boot lid and slide doors work same as my original key which means I have 3 working keys. 
 
One of the keys also came with an additional Fob button so if the contacts wear off, I can just replace it with that.  That actually happened to my TV remote and it was a pain to get another remote.
 
Next step: Find a shop that can also cut the pull out key for petrol tank.  Honestly I cannot understand why Chrysler has a physical key for petrol tank when a push button with release cable inside the car would be more logical like Fords.   

I highly recommend this company and his product and Service.  Absolutely superb but just email him first and give him your VIN number so he can send you the correct package for the right year.  The postage is a pain at $35 to UK but honestly two fully working fobs and a programable unit that can make 6 more for $179 (including shipping) is actually very good.   

Considering what the dealer charges,  I am very thankful for the service.   
 
PS:  I do NOT work for this company and they deserve my gratitude    Mahyar

Today I have become the owner of a Chrysler Grand Voyager.
 
Never had a Chrysler before and never had an automatic before so hoping to find hints and tips on the site.
 
Thanks for letting me join.

Many thanks for that Nev, yep it came out of the back with a twist and pull. Now ordered LED W5W's simply because I didn't have any filament types to hand. If that's all it needs for another year I'll be amazed  .

I know it's been a while since this topic has had any activity but I've had the same problem with a gv I bought not long before lock down and now I think I've solved it thought this might help as Google doesn't seem to have any solutions.
 
Having used a vacuum gauge on the pump and seeing good vacuum Ive put two servos from a breakers on it, changed the solenoid on the front of the engine and tried a few non return valves to no avail.
Putting the vac gauge after the servo showed the vacuum was very slow to rise.
Turns out its the vac pump failing, you can test by spraying some wd40 into the metal tube leading to it with the engine running, if the servo starts working then bingo! I've driven a few hundred miles (essential journeys only!) and servo is still working well, whether this is a temp fix or not time will tell.
As the pump is buried deep in the engine if it fails again I will add an electric pump to bypass it - plenty of info on eV forums on how to do this, should be achievable for under £150
Hope this helps someone.

Hiya Daz,
 
So this is a really common problem, I've posted countless times about it and the IOD fuse pull. My first CGV did this repeatedly, but my second did not. The thing that was different was my first had it's locks removed from the sliding doors as it was used as a taxi in it's early life so I'd guess they re-wired the locks.
 
The fuse blowing I suspected was due to the locking solenoid drawing too much current which would be caused by the mechanism starting to cease up or the solenoid going bad. Unfortunately that means it's going to be a discovery process to eliminate.
To me only option is to take the door card out of each door in turn (sliding doors to start with I'd say as I'd expect most likely to be the issue) and disconnect the locking solenoid. Then close the doors and cycle the locks a few times to get it to pop the fuse or see if the system stops working and needs the IOD reset.
When it stops doing that, I'd say you've located the faulty solenoid that either you can grease up and free the mechanism or look to replace the locking solenoid.
 
Hope that helps,
Andy

I did wonder myself with the pump timing, as you say its just a high pressure pump being common rail system
I finally have the head stripped off now and what I found was on number 4 cylinder the liner had a crack about 30 mm long next to the water jacket, its was pitted and I could see where coolant had seeped through
The gasket had a dark stain in one place and also on the head , all the others had a clean unbroken ring mark on the head , checked the head with a straight edge and there are no signs of warping but I am going to have skimmed to be on safe side while its off plus grind in the valves and fit new stem seals
Removed the sump to gain access to no4 con rod to find these engines have balance shafts that are timed to the crank , just more to take off
According to VM information the liners can only be removed when engine is out and disassembled with crank removed , I made a puller/plate that just fit between the bottom of the liner and the crank and a bridge that cleared the top lip of the liner , with a long M20 bolt through the bridge and screwed into the lower plate I tightened the bolt and the liner came out with not too much effort
New liners are about £80 inc vat then a set of rings , just got to measure old liner with shims and make sure new one is set the same
TBC

Thanks for the advice will go to my local and check, im assuming i can take the holder for number plate off and screw the plate on anyhow, ill check the electircs as i have to do the sliding door anyway i get the car wednesday so hopefully can sort it out in die course

Alternator/generator seems to be working fine now in the warmer weather and it's happy to chuck out a good output so that the PCM internal voltage regulator can do it's job.
Not sure why it was so badly affected by sub zero temperatures, but my guess is that the brushes weren't contacting properly due to flood water getting into alternator (it's pretty low down), coupled with freezing temperatures & usual crud build up preventing the brushes from contacting.
Had a similar thing last winter on my Henry vacuum cleaner that is kept in the shed. It wouldn't work, because the brushes had seized inside their housings, due to build up of normal crud that had thickened due to moisture & the cold temperature 

Hi Bignev
 
Managed to get some at £59.99 which was more then other Ebay suppliers but came from a main dealer. Never quite sure about buying for paces in the Eastern part of Europe.
 
Thanks for your help and I am sure I will be back on hear before long.

Hiya Daz,
Yes this is quite a common one, only a problem with the diesel editions it seems and it's down to the fuel heater that can overheat, melt the plastic and cause air to seep in causing it to cut out.
My videos are all at: https://www.youtube.com/c/AndyBrown2000/videos
The video I think you refer to is this general one about what to look for:
 
https://youtu.be/ucfZfV1cNng
 
And the fuel filter replacement video - which is for fuel filters at the tank:
https://youtu.be/GF3lTJhEomo
 
Hope these help, the problem could be one of a few things so you'd need to work through them logically.
 
Regards,
Andy

I know,,just see I put it here,thanks again

Doing this job as and when I can get to it now as its such a pain, bought a cheap car for the wife to use to take the pressure off
The securing lug on the turbo pipe broke off but the pipe is ok so will cable tie it back when re fit , got the timing belt off now
it has been replaced at sometime but not done using the locking pegs as I found white marks on the cam wheels that line up with marks on the casing and on the fuel pump mark lined up but the pegs would not go in
I turned the engine over on the crank twice until I could get the pegs in but when I removed the starter motor to find the crank locking hole it is a tooth out as was the pump timing ,  there is a white mark painted on the flywheel just after the first hole , line that to the hole and the pump lines up so looks like its been running a tooth out
Put the peg in the flywheel hole and the cam pegs are slightly out,  on replacement I will put back to factory settings
I have ordered a Taxi TX4 workshop manual for all torque settings  as they use the VM engine

Hi,
 
My name is Tomasz and have just became an owner of a Grand Voyager. I would like to say hello to all.

In the past if you stuck something in a garage/barn for 40 years it would suddenly become rare and valuable, if it were actually worth something in the first place, it could then be worth quite a lot , and receive rose coloured praises from writers who actually never drove one in the first place. That said, I'm not sure how vehicles of today will fair in the future especially if say in another 40 years there's no such thing as petrol/diesel, or that if there is, it would be absolutely horrendous cost per litre.
 
A while ago I bought a Ford Explorer and had it converted to LPG, it drove superbly was extremely reliable and did everything and more that a full size 4x4 could be expected to do. After 9 years and 80,000 the timing chain broke and ruined the engine (and people worry about timing belts). I could of rebuilt the engine, but at that age and mileage it really wasn't worth it, so it went to the great recycler in the sky, mainly because there were many 4x4 alternatives around, most giving as much performance and better economy that an old 'exploder'. 
 
However for me the point is that I'm unaware of any suitable replacement for my Stow n Go (as and when it gives up the ghost), hence I will keep mine going as long as is practicable. When it does die I'm not sure what its replacement will be, and I can't really think of any new or vintage which could even come close to it. What else can be used as a large comfortable car one minute, a van the next, and take a full load on a 600 mile trip at 80mph and still touch 30mpg ? 
 
40 years ago you didn't worry much about car electrics as the bodywork was going to rust away long before that ever become a problem