bignev

Follow the link QinteQ put on his reply #4, and in short sadly it is probably going to cost you some money to actually do it - good AUTO locksmith and second hand remote and you should be good to go.

Hee hee, yep!!

That's owld sods for you bignev, long memories are all 'time earned'.

Rolling the car backwards was an inadvertently interesting comment to me.
 
A Story
 
I called the system design she-brakes. Back in the 'big block shooting brake' days when rich America was in the middle of a roads and housing boom new towns just off motorways were built with big wide boulevard's and the roads were deliberately sunk low so drives were up a slope to allow drainage from the property. There was a rash of insurance claims made for 2 1/2 ton cars rolling unattended backwards into traffic so the 'top hat' shoe was redesigned to grab the trailing rather than the leading edge - after all it's a parking brake design not a handbreak. This still exists as far as I'm aware to this day.

The part number would seem to be YY23BD1AA.
 
Try a main dealer, they should be about £6 to £8 each.
 
Or if a few of you got together we could get them from moparwholsaleparts.com in the States, just had a quick work out and even with delivery they would be around £8 each based on 4.

Er, actually, yes she is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

Just today I tested the 10" x431 Pro v3 2017 @ grey £300 as an update for my old x431 [non v3 / non pro] 3" v1 2013 which still works perfectly. The new one would not read my VIN and as such unsurprisingly found no codes even though I introduced x2 known codes just before arriving for the test. Additionally it was hit and megga miss with the bluetooth connetion - so nogo, care to check what people are selling folks

I've got access to 3 different up to date snap-on within 3 minutes of here and several other brands, none of which were to my satisfaction because they don't do what my existing old x431 [non v3 / non pro] 3" v1 2016 edition does. The old v1 x431 does do everything on my 05 2.8 CRD, but that doesn't mean that it or any specific scanner does all things across the whole range . . none of them do . . . ask anyone who knows these things and has to use them all day long every day. Most small garages have two for a reason, bigger places also have dual trace scopes in conjunction with a diagnostic scanner and diagnostic equipment is useless without experience & expensive training or for the novice even more expensive a scanner with guided diagnostics / the HGS. No one diagnostic scanner does all parts of all cars. My observation is that the GV/Town & Country does not have a CRD as far as the Americans are concerned, so from the cheap Haynes manuals to expensive diagnostic scanners there's no diesel powertrain module even if it does read your VIN number properly and many don't. 

Inline 15 minutes £15 . Andy home vid in in the tread.

Hi again.
 
I just gave it an oil and filter change in the hope that the PH-16 would fix the knocking via its internal non return valve.
 
I think you may be right about it possibly being a delay in the valve clearances being taken up by the oil pressure. That would explain the need for having an oil filter with an anti-drain valve fitted ?
 
I will continue to seek out this magic filter and if it turns up I will let you know...

Right then that would explain the rather strange behaviour!
 
Blooming experts again hey, without attention to detail! Ruddy clowns.
 
And you obviously did the stat job the full way - brave man. I hope you knew about the wiper scuttle being removed for access? Helps a lot with rear spark plugs on the petrols' too.
 
And the dog looks a gorgeous fella ( or girl!)

Ah ok, could it be a delay in the valve clearances being taken up with oil pressure? A mate of mine has a 3.2 V6 Omega that does that quite loudly, sounds awful for about 30 seconds from cold then sweet as you like there after.
 
I have a small rattle (not big like yours) which all I can finally come up with is the cam chain. It's silent on start up, gets a noise, goes silent, then after probably 10 seconds settles into a light rattle, which goes away if you raise the revs very slightly.
 
Have you done an flush oil change? Either with flushing additive to the old oil or as I do using actual "flushing oil"? It might help clear any muck delaying the filling of the valves.
However - it may also do more harm than good depending on how well the oil changes have been treated in the past. If it's really mucky don't use it first time, just do a good oil change (or 2).

I think Andy is in Britain,it's probably still raining
(I'm Norwegian so weather jokes are allowed)

Yes I have constantly bleated that gordy .. ..  and one main reason for my conclusion ! As a lifelong self-maintainer I would have fought anyone accusing me of less than 'super diligent' maintenance yet when I did a complete [oil] [water] [brake fluid] [autobox] change of all wets I was mortified to find a lumpy carrots and tatties in the coolant. Unless you yourself have maintained it from brand new, and none of us will have always assume all three are well knackered. The brake fluid is hydroscopic, the wrong cheepo oil  / filters and coolant is always used by both garages and pet fitters. Do your car a favour, this trilogy of fluids are your lifeblood. Never backflush a RAD, always use HOAT, it will self bleed from the expansion bottle, always open the heater to full belt and change the fluid in the matrix. Best of luck.
 
HOAT only coolant
ATF+4 only Mopar Spec AutoBox oil

Have to agree here, I'm not buying the experts opinions here. However my own experience may help
(For an 04/05 though but same principles)
My last GV had an issue, engine oil warning light on a long drive, limped it to destination and filled up with oil and didn't check properly (My bad, I was at work and had to do stuff/be places). 6-12 months later and I'm checking fluids and spot oil in the water bottle, think film on the top. To check it get a bit of kitchen roll and dip it in. If it's got the shiny oil covering then you've got oil in there.
As it turns out I had a crack in the block, which was difficult to find/diagnose (Had head off, pressure testing before the garage it was at.. A Chrysler dealership actually spotted the crack in the block itself).
 
So my thinking, check the water yourself, look for anything like the above, take photos if you want and post here we'll all have a look for you (You're in Durham too, dare say I could have a lookie over if you want another GV owners opinion since you're in this region).
Sludge in coolant could be somebody in the past using a stop-leak radiator fixer which is notorious for causing sludge and also blocking/restricting water flow which as the other guys say sounds the biggest culprit.
 
I'd say go for another flush, it's relatively easy to do yourself with a hose and popping various hoses in the engine bay off to flush it out to see if you're still getting sludge, it can be pretty stubborn to get rid of, especially as it gets caught in the heater matrix for cabin heater, etc.
 
Good luck and drop me a msg if you do want another local pair of eyes on it!

Oooh doesn't sound too good.
 
But it was ok when you had the coolant changed, how long ago was that?
 
I don't know where the stat is on the 08 model, but the previous is a swine to get at, I have heard!
So the super method is to fit a Renault 4 one in the coolant hose to the rad. See Andy Browns video link on this forum somewhere for the job he did on his.
I'm a bit confused what he means by "nowhere to put the temp sensor" as the stat fits in a housing so a little lost why there could be a problem. If yours came in a housing, why not just use the stat from it? It may not be possible of course.
And he put the old "sludged" coolant back in?????? WHAT?
 
However, usually there will also be milky white cack in the oil if the head gasket goes, oil goes into the coolant also coolant gets into the oil. Visible through the oil filler or possibly on the dip stick.
 
@@andyb2000 and @@QinteQ I believe you guys are up that neck of the woods?

hi had exact same issues with my 2.5 crd and my 2.8 crd 
2.5 
changed every filter had tank chemically cleaned fuel system completely checked (ie all pipes injectors etc....)
never got to bottom of problem sold car for spares 
2.8 had exact same problem
changed all filters fuel heater/pump housen still had problem 
sent into diesel specialist after few hours diagnosing was fuel rail pressure release valve 
been running perfect since October 2015 absolutely no reports !!!!
if i remember the labour was around £300 and the part was around £50 (worth every penny to me)
my advice is save yourself  the £1000s i have personally spent to discover my problem 
pay few £££ for a diesel specialist to diagnose it properly for you 

I have joined this forum just to reply to this problem.
I have had the same trouble with my 2002 Grand Voyager 2.5 CRD.
First would not start after a short journey, then started after 20 mins break. Then started cutting out once she was warm, would sometimes restart straight away but mostly had to leave it for 20 to 30 mins.
AA were called and diagnosed a faulty Camshaft sensor which did prove to be correct but it was not the cause of the stalling.
I then changed the fuel filter as they are cheap and it needed doing but although this improved the start up, the car would still stall and not restart until cooled down.
No error code and the car ran fine when running. I watched a youtube video of a man heating up his Cranckshaft sensor over his gas cooker with a multi meter attatched. The car had not been showing any errors yet would cut out once warm. The multi meter dropped to zero once the sensor was warm.
Today I changed my Cranckshaft sensor and my car has been running on my drive for over 1 hour, just fine. Went for a drive and all is well with the world.
 
Sorry it is long winded but I am sooooo chuffed.. Hope this helps.

Good info here fellas,
yeah @@QinteQ maybe I should have been more specific in what I said! haha.
 
I just got my hands on a foxwell nt300 and just to report back that it does NOT do the job either, so one more to add to the pile of doesn't do the GV's (Or at least my 05 2.8CRD edition).
Actually on that @@QinteQ can I pop over next Wednesday (5th) as I've replaced wheel rotation sensors which cleared by brake warning light but I've still got "TRAC OFF" still so could do with a code read if you'd be able to oblige.
 
(PS: Sorry for this thread being hijacked and going off on one, I think it's useful to know on the readers though)

No probs andy, known good starts should automatically switch of the TRAC anyway if the wheel rotation sensors are reading right, but yes I'll have a look.
 
I've dug out that 7 series Autel ODB/ODB2 for you, never tested it on a GV [can't even REM what year I bought it] but I'll take it to our JIMBO's you try it and if it reads your car you can have it FOC anyway, it'll only get left in my box anyway !
 
I keep telling the group .. .. readers read & scan means generic, if it does not say diagnostics it does not do more than P/O-0-2-3-4 [note does not do P30 manufacturers] ODB2. Much better to bite-the-bullet
 
Best of luck.
 
http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/images/obd2-codes-explanation.png

Hi @@bignev
Yes you are indeed correct, the headphones are infra-red fed from the bar along the top of the DVD 'housing' so the angles are a big tight if you're in the middle two seats you sometimes get audio break-up in certain positions.
 
I've seen others have success with non-genuine infra-red headphones from other suppliers for different cars, etc, so that would suggest it's a common signal type, but I don't have any detail unfortunately.

Blooming good show Andy, very thorough investigation. Far better than most professionals I've dealt with over the years. Absolutely super write up too mate, fingers crossed I don't get to do it.

Haha!
 
Cheers Nev, yep good point! I'll let you know how I get on in a few weeks! Thanks for the advice!

As you say just needs a little planning and a decent app to find cheapest stations.
I certainly wouldn't want to run mine on petrol only!

Yeah on that car I just put it down the a very worn ignition barrel as the key comes out anywhere! It doesn't have a hole like in the picture or any button.