Semmysonic

I could be wrong but the way you explain it, I would say it sounds perfectly normal, if you accelerate hard on motorway in 4th it will kickdown to 3rd.

That's how autos work, gv box's are a little clunky probably due to the old technology they use.

I'm thinking there is way to much thought going into this. These hubs wouldn't be on the market if they were found to be a danger.

What's the best way to test the alternator?

 

Memory thing happened with a brand new battery on. Plus it happens when the car is running and not at startup,its an odd one for sure.

Hi nev, it also loses memory functions at random times while the car is running, again not a massive issue. It pops up on the overhead display, can't remember exactly but something about memory can't be changed when not in park. Just another one of those strange things with these cars :-)

I've notice the headlights Flickering possibly the dash lights too(at least I think they are) not all the time and not that often. I think it's as the engine is slowing down.

It's not a massive issue at the moment, just wandering if it's a sign (maybe the alternator is on its way out)

Not battery as it did the same when the battery was new.

Andy I believe the amp is in the offside rear pillar(in the boot) but don't quote me on that, just going on what I've heard on other posts

What variant do you have?

 

Will it engage drive and move?

 

Does it do the same in reverse?

Yeah they they won't rev over about 2k, they have a limiter, revs will rise and fall and not stay constantly high

Mine has 2x50 litre tanks in the middle seat wells. Gives me around 350 mile range

Had a look there is definitely a lot more kit over the pond and not too expensive either

Petrol here too (with lpg)

I wouldn't bother unless it has stow and go and all the gadgets.

I have my gas tanks in the wells that the middle seats go into so I have no loss of boot space, other than not being able to fold the middle seats away.

Can't beat these cars if you have a large family.

As nev said stuff wears out and you have to keep on top of things.

Thanks for the advice, will definitely be trying that

I didn't know they had done a 2016 update, I'll keep my eyes open for that

Is that the sat nav disc?

If it is I wouldn't bother with it, the maps are so out of date it's just not worth messing with.

I would go with the fuel filter for starters, must be something that is only on the petrol line (so not engine related)

 

Mine did a similar thing a while back but it did it on both gas and petrol (turned out to be the coil pack).

 

Lpg is less combustible so any issues tend to show up more on lpg than on petrol.

I would suggest check fuses first, then check if there is power to the motor on the back door, if all ok it might be the motor itself.

 

Yes it the old component connection, the 3 connectors are in the front of my dvd player. Media player converts USB (digital) to red, yellow and white connectors (analogue) and is powered from the cig lighter. Only cost around £15 from ebay. Definitely a lot cheaper than replacing dvd player if it's not working.

Boot issue, I would check the main motor for the auto opening (faulty of lose wire or fuse) . When button on door is pressed does it click and then make a funny buzzing noise?

 

I personally don't use the dvd player as its a pain to have all the discs in the car so I use a media player through the av connection and play all the kids films from a USB stick

Does the fan work in manual?

 

Just one thing the delay will show up for a couple of minutes until the engine has reached temperature.

 

Mine went recently, turned out to be the resistor.

 

The noise you hear is probably the reserculation door moving (I think it resets itself everytime).

 

 

My guess is the motor now, I got one from ebay for £40, easy enough to fit.

Does it make noises and give vibration through the pedal when under braking?

 

It may be the abs kicking in when it's not needed which could be causing the pulling to the left problem.

 

Turned out to be a dodgy sensor on mine when it was doing that.

Did it pass mot with the light on? Or has it come on since?

 

Had a sensor go on mine, I had to take it to a specialist auto electrician as my mechanic didn't have the code reader to find out which sensor was playing up

Did it pass mot with the light on? Or has it come on since?

 

Had a sensor go on mine had to take it to a specialist auto electrician as my mechanic didn't have the code reader to find out which sensor was playing up

Mine is petrol, looks awkward but it is fairly straightforward if you have a good lever. As Gordy said I'd be more worried about what has caused the belt to go in the first place

Yep battery first, especially in this cold weather

Rear brakes aren't that much of a pain, just a little more involved than doing the fronts

Yes it's a fairly straightforward job.

 

Can't quite remember if there is a couple of screws through the door card

Then you just need to pry the door card off, it's held in place with those little plastic clips.

 

The door must be open but not slid back as the actuator is to the rear of the door.

 

It's hidden behind the steel frame of the door. Actuator is only held in place with 1 small screw, there should be a small access hole to get a magnetic Philips screwdriver through (the hole was missing on mine so I had to drill a hole)