andyb2000

Great, and hey we all get it mixed in our head at times, I know I do often enough!
Since leaving longer got you starting easier, chances are one or more of the glow plugs aren't working. Test each one, you should get resistance to ground from the tip of each plug. I did a howto video a whole back on testing and replacing.
 
They're cheap enough, but one of the 4 plugs are a pig to get at (left most, behind alternator). If you're lucky and have the right shape/angle sockets you can do it, otherwise it's Aux belt loose, alternator moved job. All DIY do-able though, just take your time so you don't snap them in their housing.

Thanks AndyB2000,
You got me on the right track with the glow plug dash light. This morning at 5 (7 degrees temperature) I started the car, but after the light from the glow plugs gone off on the dash, I left it another 6-7 seconds before I turned her over and she started with no problems.  I hardly saw any white smoke.

Hi,
(I know this is a few weeks old, but thought I'd leave the info for future)
 
Yes this problem has come up quite a few times. Why Chrysler decided to directly solder incandescent bulbs onto the circuit board I'll never know!
 
I've done this repair on mine and a few others with LED replacements, they're tricky to do and the tracks can come off when you're soldering on the old Chrysler board but it's do-able.
I made a good find on ebay a while back, model train enthusiasts use small LED strips to light up carriages, etc, and they are ideal for this application:
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QUALITY-9v-12v-DC-3528-LED-SUPAFLEX-LIGHTING-STRIP-MODEL-RAILWAY-N-OO-HO-O-GAUGE/151025926614?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=450232359825&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
 
So those might do what you want, just solder in place and as Penguin2007 says make sure you test and get polarity correct. There are no markings for + or - on the little board you remove from the car so I ended up doing it the hard way, get your multimeter and test it whilst connected to be sure.

This is a confusing topic to be honest as different versions within the same year can be different!
On mine (A 2004/2005 2.8CRD) there is just the one which is the one at the side of the fuel tank like yours (See my youtube video to confirm if you want). My version does not have the primer or filter in the engine bay.
 
Hope that helps!

Wilco, if anything else goes wrong I'll come over just for that one job on any-other mutual night.

I've got access to 3 different up to date snap-on within 3 minutes of here and several other brands, none of which were to my satisfaction because they don't do what my existing old x431 [non v3 / non pro] 3" v1 2016 edition does. The old v1 x431 does do everything on my 05 2.8 CRD, but that doesn't mean that it or any specific scanner does all things across the whole range . . none of them do . . . ask anyone who knows these things and has to use them all day long every day. Most small garages have two for a reason, bigger places also have dual trace scopes in conjunction with a diagnostic scanner and diagnostic equipment is useless without experience & expensive training or for the novice even more expensive a scanner with guided diagnostics / the HGS. No one diagnostic scanner does all parts of all cars. My observation is that the GV/Town & Country does not have a CRD as far as the Americans are concerned, so from the cheap Haynes manuals to expensive diagnostic scanners there's no diesel powertrain module even if it does read your VIN number properly and many don't. 

You sir are correct! It has been raining mainly so haven't had a chance to! Hoping this weekend will be clear and I can have a climb under and see! When I do I'll post back and pop pics up!

hey, I have just done them today. 
started at 7.30pm - 11pm   both sides.  (In the rain!!!) 
Not hard at all but I recomend to apply plenty of WD40 day b4 job, Thouse nuts dont want to turn easy. 
 
With new bushes no more nocking noises.. 
 
Ther is a video on YT that shows how to do it, but once you will lift it and have a look you will know what to do. 
 
2x15mm wrench , spaner, 
Cooper grease
WD40
2x stands
 
 
I have rounded one bolt but luckaly I had IRWIN nuts with me
 
Smal 90degresse Impact wrench would be very helpfull. 

Have to agree here, I'm not buying the experts opinions here. However my own experience may help
(For an 04/05 though but same principles)
My last GV had an issue, engine oil warning light on a long drive, limped it to destination and filled up with oil and didn't check properly (My bad, I was at work and had to do stuff/be places). 6-12 months later and I'm checking fluids and spot oil in the water bottle, think film on the top. To check it get a bit of kitchen roll and dip it in. If it's got the shiny oil covering then you've got oil in there.
As it turns out I had a crack in the block, which was difficult to find/diagnose (Had head off, pressure testing before the garage it was at.. A Chrysler dealership actually spotted the crack in the block itself).
 
So my thinking, check the water yourself, look for anything like the above, take photos if you want and post here we'll all have a look for you (You're in Durham too, dare say I could have a lookie over if you want another GV owners opinion since you're in this region).
Sludge in coolant could be somebody in the past using a stop-leak radiator fixer which is notorious for causing sludge and also blocking/restricting water flow which as the other guys say sounds the biggest culprit.
 
I'd say go for another flush, it's relatively easy to do yourself with a hose and popping various hoses in the engine bay off to flush it out to see if you're still getting sludge, it can be pretty stubborn to get rid of, especially as it gets caught in the heater matrix for cabin heater, etc.
 
Good luck and drop me a msg if you do want another local pair of eyes on it!

There was a 2.8CRD think about 2006 advertised a fortnight ago going cheap for spares or repairs and on their fault paragraph they included a picture of a code reader with codes that the vehicle had in its memory. Actron Auto Scanner Plus CP9180. And was showing code P0765 and below it Shift Sol summit Malfunction. I say summit cos light shinning on screen hiding it.

Aye, not a problem @QinetQ Works better for me also to be honest!
 
Any luck with your testing @@karmannski ?

Good info here fellas,
yeah @@QinteQ maybe I should have been more specific in what I said! haha.
 
I just got my hands on a foxwell nt300 and just to report back that it does NOT do the job either, so one more to add to the pile of doesn't do the GV's (Or at least my 05 2.8CRD edition).
Actually on that @@QinteQ can I pop over next Wednesday (5th) as I've replaced wheel rotation sensors which cleared by brake warning light but I've still got "TRAC OFF" still so could do with a code read if you'd be able to oblige.
 
(PS: Sorry for this thread being hijacked and going off on one, I think it's useful to know on the readers though)

Hi @@bignev
Yes you are indeed correct, the headphones are infra-red fed from the bar along the top of the DVD 'housing' so the angles are a big tight if you're in the middle two seats you sometimes get audio break-up in certain positions.
 
I've seen others have success with non-genuine infra-red headphones from other suppliers for different cars, etc, so that would suggest it's a common signal type, but I don't have any detail unfortunately.

Blooming good show Andy, very thorough investigation. Far better than most professionals I've dealt with over the years. Absolutely super write up too mate, fingers crossed I don't get to do it.

Just for complete-ness I've done a write-up of the whole saga, and all the steps I did to diagnose, try out, etc, so it might be useful to others for the future.

http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2017/06/chrysler-grand-voyager-flexplate.html

It covers:
Balance Shaft Assembly on base of engine Accessory belt removal/replacement Oil Sump removed Balance Shaft Assembly removed Injector return leak test Flexplate removal (Separation of the gearbox and the engine)

Got the car started and the alarm stopped.  Thank you for the help all.

That's great news mate!

Ah good thinking @@bignev I'm gonna give the aux inputs a go, I was basing that on my last GV which did the above.
 
On the engine, all good and back on the road. It was a cracked flexplate in the end, so separated the autobox from the engine (bellhousing bolts, flexplate bolts removed from the starter motor hole when removed), got enough space to get the flexplate out and replaced. Cost from dealer was around £80 for the new flexplate.
I've been planning on doing a full write-up on steps and gotchas doing it when I get round to it! All up and running and happy again though, cheers for asking m8 :-)

Hi @@legonsuk ok so we reckon battery good, so now onto identifying IOD draw. When you had the meter instead of the fuse on IOD what current was it pulling?
 
Remember to test like this: engine off, key off+out, driver door (all doors) shut, bonnet up. Wait 5 minutes (at least) then pop IOD fuse out, put meter in, wait again I'd say 5 minutes and take the reading.
The reason for the delays? When the IOD is removed/re-added the car computer will wake up and go into it's more active state, you want to wait and see what it's like at idle/sleep state to get an idea what your idling current draw is.
 
When it's in idle you should have the following characteristics: radio clock OFF, interior lights all OFF, any/all side/park lights OFF. One that seems to come up frequently is the amplifier is sometimes forced to be on all the time, generally with after-market radios or modifications to the audio system, so do you have an aftermarket radio or mod like that which could be forcing the amp to be constantly powered?
 
Hope these help a bit more diagnostics, post back on what you find.

Ah good thinking @@bignev I'm gonna give the aux inputs a go, I was basing that on my last GV which did the above.
 
On the engine, all good and back on the road. It was a cracked flexplate in the end, so separated the autobox from the engine (bellhousing bolts, flexplate bolts removed from the starter motor hole when removed), got enough space to get the flexplate out and replaced. Cost from dealer was around £80 for the new flexplate.
I've been planning on doing a full write-up on steps and gotchas doing it when I get round to it! All up and running and happy again though, cheers for asking m8 :-)

As QinteQ and bignev says, this is such a common one. IOD is 'always' (I say that carefully!) the biggest idle draw. Why is that? Because it powers all the idle equipment in the vehicle waiting for a wake-up (From keyfob remote. Radio/accessories, etc) so when you found that the higher draw, what current was it pulling at idle?
 
The current will answer your question. Many amps and you have a problem, otherwise I'm with QinteQ, battery would be my first port of call knowing how much trouble we all have with keeping out batteries topped up and happy (Even after buttonmod a top up from a charger now and again never hurts)

sorted it , theres a very small o ring inside the female socket
replace it with something near enough and seems ok
 
thanks for viewing

Update time!! - I fixed it!
 
After studying the circuit diagrams, I pulled the connector off of the underside of the fuse/relay box and disconnected the connector to the  ABS controller. I found that one of the wires that takes a 12V supply to the ABS controller had a break in it.  It had a splice somewhere between the 2 - which I thought was probably where the problem was.  Of course it was somewhere in the wiring loom and I didn't have the time or inclination to get to it - so I ran a bypass wire along the route of the loom.
That fixed all the error codes apart from the Front Right ABS sensor.  I tested the continuity between it and the ABS connector and it was fine.  I then replaced the sensor with one I had got from a breakers yard.......and once I got above 15mph......the yellow ABS light went out!! :-D

What actual happens is the computer tries to compensate for old knackered ATF+4 and of course for voodoo additions to the mix. Change it and the filter and even then the box has got to be retrained because the computer has changed the gearbox computer settings, and yes there is a setting in the diagnostic for retrain and quick-train [Andy only - I've got one] for it to instantly pick up the new values of the proper fluid.
 
Most mechs and I know hundreds will throw and old anything in your box and swear it was ATF+4, the only way you are ever sure is if you watch him actually pour the the pink stuff in. For those who have no diagnostics (1) battery disconnected for an hour after new fluid (2) battery connected start and go to a 70MPH road (3) gently bently constant medium throttle to 50 in 4th 20 miles stopping and doing the same routine 4 or more times each time on all 4 gears
 
(NOTE) I don't use kickdown or retrain kickdown but it should happen automatically over 45-50MPH under and over use of kickdown 25 needs retraining.

Replaced a solenoid pack this week to try curing a slightly clunky change now and again. Tranny went into limp mode but no fault codes. However when looking at live readings I noticed the fluid temperature was reading minus19 degrees. Cleaned the valves and filters on the original and all was good. I have heard the temp sensor was in the range sensor but apparently not it's in the solenoid pack. If you happen to be a member of the country's biggest breakdown organisation they carry the software and will do a diagnostic check for you.