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UK cold weather, big heavy cold engine lump even with a webasto supp heater. It's been out in the cold + wind all night. White smoke suggests insufficient temperature. Blue or black might suggest something else. It's the norm. I'm under 80k @ 16 years old and get hardly any. All filters done along with full synth oil every year. my 'winterising' was done about 6 years ago, BatteryMOD,screwfixMOD, inlinestatMOD and a webastowatertop. I've no idea where in Spain, your temps or your other engine/low pressure fuel problems but I'd suggest if it doesn't go off in a mile it needs attention my friend. Best of luck.

https://www.usautomotive.co.uk/

Wazz, TRHS of main page "search this forum" will find dozens of 'white smoke' posts from others and their findings my friend, that'll give you lots of information.

Woodsy, For which [i'm a 2005-see my sig line] year ? You must be a Mk (V) 5.

HiYa brit644 Our 2001-2008 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2.8 CRD Long SE Automatic (2008) have a fully braked 1600 kg capacity on the LWB, unbraked would be a paltry 450kg they are great as a 7 adult carrying MPV but a disappointment as a tow car.

Towing: http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1 Depends on what you mean by travel trailer, they are between small egg and 10 Berth 70+kg monsters needing a F350 Dually. A UKGV is regarded pretty poor at towing a UK touring van on the flat my friend. So a 6.0 litre diesel engine, fitted with a 5th wheel towing hitch and a factory fitted, integrated brake controller, then your gonna need US and EU tow bar electrics. That's a salty £ spend. Continental camp sites use such things.

I'm lucky I've owned 3. Gave one away, loaned best one out (UK garage registered full version) 8 years ago and kept tiny but perfectly formed x431 (grey) which also has all 4 areas of Chrysler codes including. All still diagnostic functional on my year. Upgrading I would never do, I can buy another grey on 2020 for the same £UK I paid for the garage one. Upgrading either of the old two would cost 3-5 times that price and you never know what your getting. Twice I've driven many many miles at my own costs for demo's. Watching the horror in their face when I make them plug it into MY car .. .. live .. .. and drive off with my wedge intact. Best of luck.

HiYa CRD28AUTO CRD's with a good battery and good LP pressure will usually start without good glow plugs. Glow takes 1-2 minutes NOT the 3 seconds on the warning light. https://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/articles/images/722_6.jpg Changing glow plugs is always torment time wobble-end, one hardly ever gets tackled by garages - ditto many other things. You seem to be in decent fettle, congratulations.

Reverse sounds the more likely. If you have the Lucas pump [above] just put your hand central behind RAD if you can get even one single pump fix LP first. BatteryMOD, if it ain't broke is the rule, but I've tested to 5+ years now. The original 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt further MOD was changed to 33K Ω @ 1/2 watt and get a consistent 14+ summer and 15+ winter. Chrysler has long used a logic module in the alternator to adjust the duty cycle, the 33K Ω @ 1/2 watt forces old school consistent voltage above I wanted with preferred annual summer/winter output protection I get. Chrysler [like other makers with different systems] don't use an internal regulator and haven't since the 80's. Pulse modulation generated by the PCM was used to switch the duty cycle on/ff as required by GV's Puter, battery voltage/ load on engine/battery temp etc bump it high/+14 or low/-13 to keep battery charged towards 80% Best of luck.

- is usually LP fuel pressure - should be No1 on elimination diags anyway - diesel filter replacement ? - I'm 2.8 with primer just behind RAD - no LP pressure = long time to HP pressure http://www.lcool.org/technical/120_series/fuel_filter/filter2a.jpg

Thoughts only. Never been in a bookies/lottery/raffle and don't have your year. If I was a punter I'd go for boost pressure/air intake temperature sensor. See ryden/Gordy post 2 years ago: http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1404-hi-guys-i-have-a-problem/ Best of luck.

Hoat I've always used. I get Comma 05 from amazon under £30 delivered and dilute with a gallon of distilled about a quid. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Comma-XHD5L-Xstream-Antifreeze-Concentrate/dp/B0048778U6 I've never, and never would backflush. The matrix is equally important. Burping is easy. Stat should keep it under half way temp. My 2.8 is now 15 years old no temp problems ever. Mine has a Webasto WaterTop but I've done the batteryMOD and inlineSTAT mod along with Screwfix lagging in front of RAD. Congratulations, looking after your car gives it the best chance of looking after you. Best of luck.

2.8 engine bay 2.5 rear axle

They usually clip back together, if the cable(s) broke YouTube has dozens of walk through's. Alternatively as you say scrappy for you.

It's your choice I use 5/30 full synth. Chrysler manual says 5/40 but even here in top north east we hardly ever get -10C. Cheepo to full synthetic is a price decision. Filters change equally critical. I'm an infrequent driver, I use full synth for engine protection. Your choice. Best of luck.

Agree, I clearly remember I was more interested in the 'bench' seat at the time.[wistful smile at my age]. Sorry about the gobbledygook. Cursor over, left click, right click, download to, your puter will ask/tell to point, send it where I said earlier. Best of luck.

The download are actually 5 separate 2005 year pdf's (portable document format) covering all areas particularly the UK/EU platform diesels. This document is easily read by most computers and all windows computers. Just create a folder called GVPDF download them there and then move/copy them to somewhere safe. Go here when you are ready and get them:: http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service%20Manuals/2005_RS_Caravan_Voyager/

DUP

The Chrysler issue workshop manuals I answered in #5 of your other thread. In N or P car will not / should not rev above 2.5k RPM my friend. Gearbox logic will de-tune or in this case re-learn your personal driving habits and gearbox operations. My old school rule on most problems is cheap DIY before expensive highly paid often non experts. The 41TE is usually bullet proof (but crap 4 ratio's). You have no sig line so no idea of year but it's prolly never had a new filter and fluid in its lifetime. In this case a top up of hopefully correct [ATF4+] for your car oil seems to have done the trick my friend.

Sentech Your car started. Wheels facing forward. STAND on footbreak. 6 good Yuk's on Hand Brick. Will equalise Y cable and clockspring. Light out ? If not you may have bad wheel sensor reading. Best of luck.

Location is ditto with old. Outside temp so RAD and other heat source should be avoided my friend.

Adjust. Leedsmans thread with photo's here: https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/my-struggles-gv-handbrake-mot-22210/

Ambient Temperature Sensor.

I only ever use Chrysler recommend oil which is ATF+4. It doesn't have to be their Mopar brand but I'd never put anything else in my friend. Ditto recommend engine/coolant/brake fluid even. The tranny is a sensitive hydraulic fluid coupling / converter not just a lubricant. Best of luck.

Thanks for the graphics, they always speak a thousand words. Fracture in a chamber, that's a proper sod, hope you can effect a repair. Webasto's are major boost for a great big 3 litre cold lump of engine and cheaper MPG in the winter. Must say it's the first fracture I've heard of from anyone or from posts here and elsewhere.