RichardM

Sorry but just noted the link to ebay Lucas primer - is this what's fitted or does it require some mods for a 2007 CRD. On the issue of maintenance, is there a w/s manual for this specific engine. I downloaded a set for the Voyager and it is very sparse on diesels and mentions things that do not exist - like lift pumps etc. ? ? ?

again on the eBay scheme there are lots of people breaking Voyagers, may be worth contacting a few.  Otherwise check out 1stchoice.uk - a network of breakers - have used before with pretty good results

Update.
Well after a couple of weeks it appears to be working, I haven't done much mileage wise (lockdown), but a trip to the shops (essential items, potatoes, peas, Brandy, Magnums etc), is a round trip of 36 miles and my wife eats a great number of Magnums so... Yup car looks greatly clean (baring the dust), seems well worth the effort. Treated the windows with the rain piss-off stuff that I bought around 12 years ago and filed away on the back shelf of my shed, again pretty good but suspect it may have aged a little, and unlike your Vin Rouge I don't think aging does it any good, may invest in a new bucket when the raps come off.

Having a fair bit of time on my hands recently I decided to apply a PTFE coating to my dreaded Black Pearlescent Voyager.
Black is beautiful if you clean it and leave it in your garage (my garage is too small for the bus).
I HATE CLEANING CARS.
So, having bought this sealant a few months ago, I finally opened the bottle and armed with a mass of microfibre cloths commenced this dreaded operation.
So panel by panel applied the first coat (reactive agent ?), left it dry, buffed it off, applied the PTFE top coat stood back to admire the result (clean and shinny) and proceeded to the next panel.
After completing half the vehicle, went indoors for a coffee and decided enough was enough for the day. A couple of days later (slow to recuperate) decided that it wasn't going to finish itself.
In the meantime I went into town to get some essentials (as per HM govs rules) - I consider cream cakes part of my 5 a day, and noticed rain spots from the previous day still on the bonnet, so it's not magic but as the bottles were open and already paid for decided to carry on and complete the task. The last panel was the roof, and being 6'5" still needed to open the doors and stand with feet in the car to reach the centre of the roof. 
Please note that pigeons know exactly what you're doing and therefore shat all over the roof - despite Chris Packham's crusade I'd love a shotgun!
Regarding those rain spots, they didn't wipe off with a dry rag so had to wash them off - not difficult but thought this would be a thing of the past.
Anyway, will see how things go.

Aye and purple caravans, curtains, carpets. But then I found out about proper sausage/Haslet and other offal tasties. Was gonna whack on one of the locals on my first visits when a bloke in a club called me a duck. Then family explained a "me-duck" and indeed everyone used it for both genders. Salt of the earth, good top people, loved my visits.
 
You take care my friend, best of luck.

Ah Grantham, just bordering on civilization I believe. 1 pub, and two more lamp posts than us, the one we have hasn't worked for two years. Spent the 80's out of the country (S.E. Asia), I do remember the seventies though, the early parts through a slight alcoholic haze, great music and a 1600E resprayed a violent VW  green.

That is very kind, hopefully don't have to take you up on the offer ! (I'm in the East Midlands by the way (Old Leake, Boston), take the A52 to the ens of the Earth, when you arrive carry on another 25 miles.

It helps in confirming my worst fears.. The old girls OK at the moment but if something goes wrong then there's no dealer in sight and therefore diagnosing anything other than a flat tyre may prove interesting.....

That is very kind, hopefully don't have to take you up on the offer ! (I'm in the East Midlands by the way (Old Leake, Boston), take the A52 to the ens of the Earth, when you arrive carry on another 25 miles.

Yeh true. Sorry to give bad news to a fellow traveller. If your north east England, in the do-da and stuck (after coVid or we will get bobbies) I'll give you 2 free reads+clear's. So you need to be somewhere twixt Leeds/Newcastle, I'll meet you half way my friend. Best of luck.

It helps in confirming my worst fears.. The old girls OK at the moment but if something goes wrong then there's no dealer in sight and therefore diagnosing anything other than a flat tyre may prove interesting.....

Well my ori was a full OBD2 OBDII EOBD Auto Full System Diagnostic Scanner Code Reader on winCE. Tiny little thing battery only haven't seen one for sale for a decade.
 
The apparently upgraded 5 expressed as V+ are available but I have zero evidence of their codes. My ori had all 4 ODB areas including the 'hens teeth' area of Chryslers own info and did have live data. I found live data reliable read at the time and unreliable when saved and read later - this I assume is lack of (add a data card) onboard memory.
 
I've tested two super grey sellers (at my expense) by making them plug my new set into my odb port.and found them not to work. Smile, listen politely to their protestation and drive off wedge intact - I'd never buy blind without an actual test.
 
Many protocols on my MK4 have changed over the years and new ones invented. A new[er] car on a new[er] diagnostic scanner might well work but not in my 04-07 Mk case. Hope this info helps.

I'm lucky I've owned 3. Gave one away, loaned best one out (UK garage registered full version) 8 years ago and kept tiny but perfectly formed x431 (grey) which also has all 4 areas of Chrysler codes including. All still diagnostic functional on my year.
 
Upgrading I would never do, I can buy another grey on 2020 for the same £UK I paid for the garage one. Upgrading either of the old two would cost 3-5 times that price and you never know what your getting. Twice I've driven many many miles at my own costs for demo's. Watching the horror in their face when I make them plug it into MY car .. .. live .. .. and drive off with my wedge intact.
 
Best of luck.

I have stuffed the grill with Screwfix lagging and it certainly makes a difference, Have got a Renault 890C thermostat in reserve but my thermostat appears to be working as per spec... if it aint broke..............
I have not done the battery mod, I did have to fit a new battery after buying the car but to date have not been stuck despite many many short (less than 2 miles) journeys. Occasionally she's a pig to start, I have to watch the glow plug light like a hawk, start immediately and keep cranking till she fires which can take a frighteningly long time.
The thermistor's readings are also part of the idle revs and emission  control systems (God bless software) Placing a 22K resistor in line with the thermistor appears to tell the computer that the engine bay is  20oC less than true. (assuming the thermistor is a NTC 3950 (this is the closest match I can find relative to the small data set in the ws manual)
Extrapolating the figures from the workshop manual and then restricting the data set to the relevant range gives the following; (sorry can't find out how to insert the graph)
(At 40C the ECU will think it's 2C, at 20/25 around -1C etc. (with 22K resistor inserted)., within this range the thermistor is fairly linear 
So my thoughts are there is going to be more diesel in the cylinders than is optimum.... Thoughts ????

Hoat I've always used. I get Comma 05 from amazon under £30 delivered and dilute with a gallon of distilled about a quid. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Comma-XHD5L-Xstream-Antifreeze-Concentrate/dp/B0048778U6
 
I've never, and never would backflush. The matrix is equally important. Burping is easy. Stat should keep it under half way temp. My 2.8 is now 15 years old no temp problems ever. Mine has a Webasto WaterTop but I've done the batteryMOD and inlineSTAT mod along with Screwfix lagging in front of RAD.
 
Congratulations, looking after your car gives it the best chance of looking after you. Best of luck.

If everything else fails see if you can get a 'new' one made via a 3D printer. There are people - and companies that offer this service ~ I have made some cams for my electric gate motors when the manufacturer wanted £25.00 each for them. If I costed my time out for producing them (2 off) would probably be around the 150 mark but times free on a Sunday - better than mowing the grass anyway.

Used to be £1800-£2000+ for "diagnostic". Grey's in the UK are currently £550+.
 
Readers function very different. Poster below did buy and use but I've no idea if it was CRD. Best of luck.
 
https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/dealer-level-diagnostic-software-uk-31105/

I actually own a ILink400 but have not yet brought the Chrysler module. I have the VAG and Vauxhall modules on it. It is a excellent diagnostic tool for the money and allows you to perform most dealer level adaptions. I have used it on many cars including my current Golf v6 4motion 2.8, also Audi TT 3.2. I have plugged it into my Grand Voyager and it does scan and delete codes out the box, but you would have to buy the Chrysler software module open up its full potential. 

Afternoon all.
 
I thought I would share a bit of a story that happened to me this weekend, in the hope that it will help some others if the same thing happens to them.
 
The model it concerns is any 300C with the Mercedes 3 litre V6 diesel. I'm guessing the newer models with the VM diesel will be totally different.
 
So there we are, on the way to Wakefield from Essex where we live, merrily trotting along the motorway. All of a sudden the dashboard starts to chime repeatedly (as if i've left the headlights on and got out), the engine cuts out completely, and on the dashboard are the engine management light, and the red lightening bolt, with a reverse bracket either side (see attached photo).
 
We coast to a stop onto the hard shoulder, and i try to restart the car. It turns over and over, but refuses to fire up.
 
The missus gets on the phone to the RAC, and we're told there's roughly a two hour wait, so this gives me a bit of time to do some Googling before the patrol arrives.
 
Now then, if you refer to the handbook, it clearly states (even in the diesel supplement) that the lightening bolt light indicates there is a fault with the "Electronic Throttle Control". This is utter nonsense. As it turns out, on the diesel models only, this light refers to a fault with either the Swirl Flap Motor, or the Turbo Actuator. Annoyingly this isnt listed in any of the handbooks that come with the car. Poor show Chrysler!
 
Whenever you turn the ignition on in the car, you can see the arm of the turbo actuator raise up. So if this is the problem, then its very easy to diagnose. I tried this little test, and sure enough, the turbo actuator arm wasn't popping up when my wife turned the ignition on, so naturally I thought this was the problem. Sadly I was wrong.
 
What had happened to my car was this....
 
Over time, the seal around the air intake on the front of the turbo degrades. This allows a small amount of oil to drip onto the swirl flap motor, which is situated directly below. (very poor design). This oil had eventually seeped inside the motor, causing it to short out. This short had instantly popped fuse number 15 under the bonnet, which in turn had caused the engine to shut down while doing 70mph to protect itself. I didn't have the handbook in the car with me sadly, so searching on the internet just have me fuse diagrams of the petrol models, which on those shows its for the injectors. Again as it turns out, fuse 15 in the front fuse box does completely different things on the diesel models. It protects the following.... A/C Clutch, A/C Pressure regulator, Crankcase Vent Heater, EGR Valve, Engine Control Module, Fuel Pump, Glow Plug Module, Swirl Flap Motor, Oxygen sensors..
 
So I replaced the blown fuse with a spare 20 amp, and the car fired straight up. It was now in limp mode, and showing the EML and Lightening light, but it was drive-able up to about 80 mph, albeit a bit slow getting there.
 
By this time, the RAC man had arrived. Now there is nothing worse that someone interfering when a pro is at work, so when he arrived, I left him to it, and he plugged the diagnostics in, and it threw up a ton of errors all related to things connected to this fuse. All except the swirl flap motor. He was a bit confused at first, but then I mentioned that I think it might be the swirl flap motor. He hooked up all his testing gear to it, ran a load of tests, and sure enough confirmed to me that the motor was dead.
 
He then cleared the ECU codes, started the car, and only then did it throw up a specific Swirl Flap related error.
 
HE gave me some spare fuses, and after a quick road test, we were on our merry way albeit in limp mode.
 
Now to fixing it.
 
The cheapest place I could find to supply and fit a new motor quoted £575 plus VAT. The motor is just over £100, but the labour involved is a joke. Anything that is situated inside the VEE of the engine (Swirl Flap Motor, Oil Cooler) etc needs major open heart surgery to fix it. Annoyingly both the motor and the cooler seals have known faults, so they couldn't be in a worse place!
 
If you fancy forking out all that money to have the motor replaced, then that is no doubt the best way in the long run, however there is a quick fix for £1.99 and YES it does work perfectly.
 
Get yourself some 4K7 resistors off of ebay, they are £1.99 for 50. Remove the engine cover, then remove the intake pipe that runs from the airbox to the front of the turbo. Right below the turbo, you will see a black box. This is the offending motor. On the right of the motor is a multi plug held in with a grey clip. Remove the metal bracket above the plug, and pop the plug off.
 
Grab a resistor, and bend the legs in such a way that they will fit snugly into the two centre holes in the plug. Theres 4 in total. Once you have put the resistor in, and you can confirm its in there properly. Tape it up with electrical tape so the resistor wont fall out. Replace the metal bracket, and the air intake pipe, leaving the plug sticking up so you can get to it again in the future if you need to. Then start up the car, and stand back in amazement as both the engine management light and the lightening bolt lights extinguish, and the car comes back out of limp mode.
 
Take the car for a drive, and you will see that it drives as good as new.
 
What you have done here, is fool the car into thinking the swirl flap motor is working again. WHen in fact its now disconnected.
 
You shouldnt notice any difference in performance or fuel economy at all. The emissions may be up slightly when cold is all.
 
So to summarise, if your car cuts out with the lightening bolt on.
 
1) Coast to a stop
2) Curse, swear, have a fag, but don't despair
3) Check fuse 15 in the front fuse box, and replace
4) Start the car and drive home in limp mode - The car will do upto 80mph
5) Order your resistors from Ebay, making sure they are the 4K7 type
6) Still use your car while you are waiting for them to be delivered, remembering that it wont pull away as quick as usual
7) Fit the resistor at the weekend in the rain
8) Stand back, chest puffed out, hands on hips, telling the neighbours you've just saved almost 700 quid :-)
 
 
 
 
 
 

Old school 6 fuse wiring is not modern PCi 100% computer data BUS controlled. W124 was both petrol CRD if my memory serves me.Always on by the milli-second software driven constant checks on lights, alarm points, etc are the reason. Ditto the original OEM radio is coded to the BCM module (caveat emptor). The 10/01/2020 RTU  4.2 is a good enough straight swap battery - lifestyle [infrequent daily use] is the killer of all starter batteries on GV's including big Odessy 100+ aH 1000+CCA. Crap handbrick and left clog position are original poor design engineering translations petrol/CDR and LHdrive/RHdrive.
 
Manuals here, Best of luck.

nothing for Alzheimers though.....