AustinM64

Hi There, My problem is similar but slightly different insomuch as I have the ABS light on (Orange) and the 'TRAC OFF' displayed but no problems with the servo etc. Mine started with the sound of metal on metal and then stopped, then started again then stopped (car still stopping without issue) this concluded with me ascertaining a problem - heavily corroded rear discs. All discs and pads replaced only for the light and message still illuminated. I can see from the posts that there is a strong likelihood that one of my ABS wheel sensors has failed. My question is; if the TRAC OFF message is lit, does this mean the sensor not working is on one of the drive wheels, i.e. the front? Cheers Austin

Dear All, An update. Head gaskets done and I have completed about 2,000 miles since (including a 1,600 mile trip to France - which itself included 3 x approx 2h 30 min stints at 84 mph (136 kph) - 4 adults, our luggage, and a roof box full of tools) It was very difficult to see but No 1 Cylinder did have slight discolouration of the valve heads, brownish as opposed to black/greyish, and a little bit more 'black' across the 'circular ring seal area' on the head - if you've taken one appart, you'll know what I mean - and the water jacket. Having put sealers in the water system, most of the waterways were considerably restricted. I cleaned these in both the heads and block, had the heads skimmed and finally replaced the rotten exhaust heat-shields, front and back. Before reassembly, I made a visual check on the head bolts and they all looked in excellent condition so did not replace them. Whilst I made sure there was no fluid or debris in the block holes for the head bolts, I did have 'a moment' when going through the final torque tightening sequence, one of the head bolts just went way beyond the 90 degree turn and didn't 'click' (I had set my Torque Wrench to 125 NM as I had read that after the final 90 degree turn the torque of the bolt should be at least 122 NM.) I finished the other bolts and went back to this bolt. I undid it and took it out; it looked fine, so I popped it back in, repeated the sequence and it was fine. When doing the final 90 degree turn, it clicked at about 60-75 degrees (few!! ). The car runs cooler now at between 88-89 and 93-94 degrees C (instead of the previous 96 - 100 degrees C) So far, there doesn't seem to be any noticeable issue with the fact that I have bypassed the water from flowing through the oil-filter housing (after 2,000 miles it still looks light brown and it doesn't appear to have burnt any oil). Thanks for your input, and I hope this helps. On to changing the Clutch in my P38 2.5 DSE Ranger Rover! Cheers Austin

Hi There, I have a 2006 model (Registered Dec 2005) Chrysler Grand Voyager 3.3L V6. I have brought some new Autolite AP5426 spark plus. I have removed NGK Iridium plugs. As you can see from the listing from eBay below, the Autolite ones appear to be correct but......... when I checked them before I bolted the heads back on, they appear to be longer than the Iridium ones to the point where one protrudes, fractionally, below the the head/into the bore. I've replace the head gasket and had the Heads skimmed. "6 x SPARK PLUG PLATINUM AUTOLITE AP5426 - CHRYSLER VOYAGER 3.3L 3.8L 01-07" Anyone else had this issue? Are the Autolite ones good to use? Should I be sticking with the Iridium plugs? Cheers Austin

Hi There, I have to replace my Head Gaskets and wondered if you have to buy replacement Head Bolts? You look like you have done this before so thought I'd ask. Cheers Austin

Hi There, No sound insulation. My actual valve spring/rocker assembly covers are plastic! Austin

Hi There, I have a 4th Generation Grand Voyager, 3.3 Ltr V6. Does it have plastic rocker box covers? Cheers Austin

Yes, still getting the P0301 fault code. Funnily enough, just looked at the logged faults this afternoon and there was a fault of P0300 there as well! Cleared the faults and have used the car today without the fault codes returning (not unusual).

Hi BigNev, Unfortunately, there are none of the obvious signs (unless I'm missing them). No oil in the water, no water in the oil, no emulsified deposits in either the radiator or the oil filler cap. When I do a 'cold tin lid' test there is a very small amount of condensation on it but nothing unusual (Petrol and diesel are hydrocarbons. When these fuels burn, the carbon and hydrogen atoms combine with oxygen atoms to produce carbon dioxide and water vapour). I have a CO2 tester coming in the week. I have the old HT leads so will test all the plugs and I plan on keeping the car for a while so will change the ignition coil. I'll report back. Thanks Austin

Morning All, Firstly, apologies for the long post but I felt there was a bit of history that may help. This problem started some time ago when I noticed the heater had gone cold. I knew from experience that when the water is low the heater blows cold (had a leaking radiator). I didn’t check the water level immediately but then noticed the temp gauge went up. Topped up the water; problem went….. so I thought. The same problem returned a number of weeks later (I can’t remember how long in between) i.e. the heater going cold and I topped up the water. This happened for a number of months without any change in the pattern. I had the car serviced in March 2018 and not long after it came back the orange engine light came on. I checked this out with an OBD II widget plus App. Fault P0301- Engine misfire on cylinder one. I cleared the fault but it comes back. In October I had the temp go up sharply to the Red Zone. I was able to pull straight into a garage, fill up with water, buy 6 liters of spring water and I made the 20-minute journey home. Further investigation showed that the rusting pipes of the oil cooler had developed a hole or two. I repaired this by bypassing the oil cooler with a purposed made piece of copper pipe. Over the last four to six weeks the car has definitely developed a misfire under load conditions and occasionally ‘hunts’ at tick-over. When cold, the misfire is accompanied by a 'popping' noise coming from the driver’s side of the engine bay (same side as No.1 cylinder and the radiator cap). When warm, the misfire jolts the car into a ‘rough road kind of judder’. Drove to Liverpool on 27th; 5 people on board; 404-mile round trip getting 28.8 mpg. On the flat purring, underload juddering. Recently I have changed the plug and the HT leads. The car has done approx. 155k troublish-free miles. My gut feeling is the head gasket is going/has gone or worse case, there is a crack in the block or head. Has anyone else experienced these symptoms and did the problem turn out to be the head gasket? Kind regards Austin