SpAwNtoHell

E-mail sent. Check spam folder also.

I will have a look when i get home on the diagrams, but all relays and fuses are under de bonnet by battery tray.

Hello all,
just got a 2007 Grand Voyager. Couldn't be bothered to do job myself so gave it to my local garage.
Timing Belt Kit ( 3 year warranty ) + Water Pump done for £640 all in.
 
SWB Autos in North Cheam, Surrey
 
Im happy 

Hello,this will help. If you require a full workshop manual a dvd can be sourced on ebay. For computer diagnostic you can use appcar FCA but is licensed and only for one vin(browse the topics is one already about this).
 
http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/428-manual-workshop-manuals/

Hello again
 
Here is a link to one of the repair kits on ebay.
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-Grand-Voyager-Lancia-2008-2-8CRD-Loose-Engine-Cover-Grommet-repair-SET/323258758220?hash=item4b43b9344c%3Ag%3A~0kAAOSwwAda-~mw&_sacat=0&_nkw=engine+cover+rapair+chrysler&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313
 
There are several sellers that sell these so i would suggest the you search for the one closest to you.

Hi
 
When you open the doors manually from the inside the door should unlock and open. If you close it manually from the inside or outside the door will do a little noise just before closing. Its the lock accutator locking the door using the electrics.
If you use the button on the inside or at the drivers roof it should all run electrical. When it does it makes a little sound but not much..
 
Known problems with the sliding doors are the cable running in the lover part of the floor, just next to the door. As the cables get older they tend not to bend as much causing the cables to brake. I think Chrysler might have a legal replacement on the sliding door wiering drivers side in Europe. Pls check this with your dealer.
 
Other known problems is the lock accutator. It gets worn out and eventually stops locking the door.
 
Hope this was helpful

Hello
 
The ATF+4 in the gearbox has 6000 miles replacement interval and should be level checked 1200 miles. It must be replaced more often if you often run with heavy loads in the car. Make sure to use mopar ATF+4 when changing to meet the specs. I think i got an update on the last dealer service of the gearbox but it did not change anything that i felt. 
 
The ATF is replaced by dropping the container and replace the fluid. Unfortunetly there is no drain. Spill as little as you can and messure the ATF in the container. Change the filter, and clean the container using break cleaner and a clean cloth. Make sure to take out the magnet and clean it and check for wear. If you want to avoid leakage, use silicon selant and not the seal gasket. As the gearbox gets hot the seal tends to shrink with a probable leakage.
 
Refit the container and torque in 3-4 laps up to 14nm. Wait for 1,5 hrs until the selant dries and refill the ATF. Start with the withdrawn amount of ATF. If you are to remove the entire amount of ATF from the system and do a so called flush you need to demount the line from the primary pump and drain there until fresh ATF comes out (while refilling the same amount during the process). Do not run the gear box with low level of ATF. 
Refit the hose and fill the box to correct level using a dipstick. The level differs depending on the temperature of the gearbox. Specs for this can be found on the internet.
 
If you are doing this for the first time make sure to keep everything clean as always when working with all hydralics and make sure to get the correct level on the fluid. Place the gear shift in every gear for 1 minute and recheck the level. This must be done several times to make sure.
 
Please note that this is my way of doing it. A flush should be done using a filter station etc but this is one way that has worked for me.

The alarm is triggered by door, bonnet & tailgate switches. Also there are internal ultrasonic sensors and a tilt sensor in case someone tries to tow it away.
You can rule out the internal sensors by switching them off. To do this, when locking the car press lock on the key fob 3 times within 15 seconds.

We added extra oil in, so now roughly 5.2l went in.

Followed your instructions @@SpAwNtoHell and testing on hot after a good 20 mins drive came in around 38-40 so hopefully this job is done now.

Checked sump pan and doesn't look like it's leaking now so third time luckily I guess.

Thanks for guidance.

On to the next job now.

Hello, i did say is messy at some point... and yes, is right mare sealing that sump ( i need to redo my one again, i can only assume was bent previously just a tiny bit)
 
Your level sounds low to me.
 
With engine cold, temperature that is outside ( around 20 celsius now) start engine apply brakes ( service and hand brake) move from park to drive, slowly release service brake (pedal) the hand brake should hold it not to slip fwd, cycle the leaver through pnrd and back about 2 minutes( make sure is not moving with hand brake on...) rest it in park or neutral with hand brake still firmly on. Open bonnet ( leave engine running) remove cap measure oil level, should be just under 20mm (18-19mm) at 25 celsius for maximum and 3mm for minimum... and this is cold level.
 
On hot, the car needs to be driven from cold in gear till engine gets to operating temperature ( not parked till engine gets warm) when the temperature gauge gets to half that is 87-89 celsius mark transmission then will be 10 celsius lower... park on level ground, leave engine running and measure oil level again ( pay atention not to get burn or have clothing getting trapped in the fan as is dengerous) i used a long sleve jumper, thick one to be covered in order to remove cap at this stage. Gearbox oil on the dipstick should be 45-46mm for maximum and 30mm for minimum.
 
Note the warm hot gearbox oil level is just for double checking that the first measurement on cold was right to begin with. Ideally you want to be as closest to maximum but not over and under no circumstances under minimum.
 
This worked and prove pretty accurate now that i can read temperature transmission temperature i checked again and i could prove that is right. You have to know that transmission oil as it gets hot level is rising in the end it is a hidraulic oil...special atention needs to be paid to leaks on transmission as running low/dry will kill it so any leaks need to be put right.
 
Hope this helps,
 
 
As for tool to read temperature i have a few but only with the computer based one i could read the transmission temperature ( on top of all other 28 modules in this car, check the topic with the diagnostic last post) the other option would be probably a infrared temp reading tool or a probe based tool like fluke k temp but none are really justified to buy if only for this job.
 
Checking gearbox oil on this is weird, as they could of simply put a dipstik in there with min max cold marks on one side and min max hot on the other side... i am in the process of making such a dipstik as getting the oil right for sure was a bit of a adventure first time till i concluded the above...

Te sensor should have a seal... if seal is not sealing or dirty... the sensor should be hand tight, or tight by hand if you like. What you mean exactly by sweating? Drips forming? The cap that the filter came with has a seal, that can be used also if sensor seal is damaged leaking etc, as i noticed is the same with the sensor one.
 
Ps: how was the old filter looking inside? You can see the state of it through the holes from the top side, not water sensor side. Should be able to see if element is white yelowish or brown... ( my one was very dark)
 
At this stage taking of the sensor wont loose a lot of diesel so is not as chalenging that replacing the filter.

Welcome to the forum. In all fairness all need TLC ) depending of everyone's standards.

Hi

Yes, same setup as yours.

I played around tonight and put a movie in the top and one in the ves at the bottom, managed to get two movies working, one on on flip down screen and other on the other flip down. Kids are well chuffed lol.

Going to order the headphones you linked and will also order remote from the link I posted earlier.  It is the exact image of ours and seller has confirmed just now that he has tested and all working fine.

Will let you know how it goes.


As for maintenance, silicone arrived today so definitely getting on with fuel filter change followed by transmission filter/oil change.  We've read through your notes and watched a few youtubes.  Still waiting on that dvd to arrive though, hoping it will come soon.

Getting their slowly ! but love the car and have already flattened all rear seats and used as van to bring furniture back to house. Win win I think.

Thanks

I have this car 2010 plate I bought from rockauto in USA this indicators left and right £60 plus shipping £18.97 For change is very easy I see video in Yotube Chrysler town & country replacement turn right site indicator ... Kind Regards  Sydney1 from Rugby

Possibly the auxilliary heater exhaust?

There is a repair kit on ebay for this if you have the old one.
If you dont, visit the junk yard or ebay and order one for the European version with WM motori diesel engine.
 
The US versions wont fit.
 
 

Oil change is typical as any oil change but filter is a bit hard to acces but not hard, changing gearbox oil and filter is messy and if the gearbox oil is not the genuie you will kill it. Diesel filter is under the rear axle a bit messy and i recommend axle stands that can handle 2.5 t and also the tank to be pretty low. Just Light on at the gauge.air filter is the easiest. And the hardest is cambelt do to the fact you need to replace water pump and coolant in the same time, not much space and fuel lines in the way.

Hmmm hey look i got a pdf about the seats... seems i was right... they can be verified via CAN, looks like it can be from the switch or module configuration
 
 
Power Seat Switch - Vehicles may be equipped with a driver side eight-way power seat switch. The power seat switches are paddle-type levers mounted on the outboard seat side shields. Movement of the seat cushions and backs mimics the action of the switch paddles. MEMORY SEAT SYSTEM An electronic memory seat system is available on certain models. The memory system is able to store and recall all driver side power seat positions, outside mirror positions and power adjustable pedal position. The system can be set for two different drivers. On vehicles with a factory installed radio connected to the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus network, the memory system is also able to store and recall up to twelve radio station presets (six AM and six FM), for two drivers. The memory system will also store and recall the last station listened to for each driver, even if it is not one of the twelve preset stations. The memory system will automatically recall all of these settings when a button of the memory switch is depressed, or when the doors are unlocked using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter (if enabled). If the vehicle has more than two drivers the RKE transmitter recall of memory features can be disabled. This is a customer programmable feature of the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) set through the use of the appropriate steering wheel switches. Refer to Electrical - Message Systems/Message Center/CENTER, Electronic Vehicle Information - Operation for additional information on the customer programmable features. The memory system also has an "Easy Entry and /Exit" feature that provides the driver with more room to enter or exit the vehicle. When the seat is in a memorized position, it will move rearward 55 millimeters or to the end of its travel, whichever occurs first, when the key is removed from the ignition switch lock cylinder. This is also a customer programmable feature of the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) set through the use of the appropriate steering wheel switches. The memory system also has a "Tilt in Reverse" feature that tilts the outside mirrors down a fixed, incremental angle when the vehicle is shifted into REVERSE with the ignition switch in the RUN position. This feature provides the customer with a better view of the ground and vehicle in the area of the rear tires when backing up.
 
OPERATION POWER SEAT SYSTEM The power seat system receives battery current through a fuse in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) so that the power seats remain operational, regardless of the ignition switch position. When a power seat switch is actuated, a battery feed and a ground path are applied through the power seat switch contacts to the appropriate motor or motors. The motor and drive unit operate to move the seat in the selected direction until the switch is released, or until the travel limit of the power seat track is reached. When the switch is moved in the opposite direction, the battery feed and ground path to the motor is reversed through the switch contacts. This causes the motor to run in the opposite direction. MEMORY SEAT SYSTEM The Memory Seat Module (MSM) receives battery current through a circuit breaker in the Totally Integrated 2009 Dodge Grand Caravan SE 2009 ACCESSORIES AND EQUIPMENT Power Seats, Front - Service Information - Grand Caravan, Town & Country steve Monday, May 23, 2011 2:14:04 PM Page 5 © 2006 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC. Power Module (TIPM) so that the power seats remain operational, regardless of the ignition switch position. When the driver memory seat switch control knob is actuated, a resistance signal is sent to the MSM via the Controller Area Network (CAN) bus circuit. The MSM is responsible for the 12V battery feed and ground path to the power seat adjuster motor. The adjuster motor operates to move the power seat adjuster mechanism through its drive unit in the selected direction until the switch is released, or until the travel limit of the adjuster is reached. The MSM receives memory set/position switch input through the CAN bus circuit. The MSM also receives hard wired input from the hall effect sensors, mounted on each of the driver power seat adjuster motors and the driver side view mirror motor. The programmed software in the module allows it to know where the seat/mirror is located in its designed travel by a pulse count generated from the hall effect sensors. This way, when the memory switch is depressed the module will power the seat adjuster/mirror motors until the correct preset location is achieved. The module will prevent the seat memory recall function from being initiated, if the transmission gear selector lever is not in the Park position, or if the vehicle is moving. These inputs are monitored over the Controller Area Network (CAN) bus circuit by the MSM. 
 
I will e-mail it if you want... is a lot in that one... 38 pages but no schematic.

Hello, time to update this, I managed to read the codes in the end... Either Launch diagnostic will read this Chrysler properly or Autel diagnostics. As a side note seems to be a great deal of counterfeit Autel and Launch on ebay and amazon as they appear tempting as are less the half price. I spent a lot of time ordering stuff and returning it, and even finding a garage with the above diagnostics was hard as some have some old models not updated and are not better then my generic scanner or key dance. 
 
Anyway seems like i have stored P0740 and P0087.... and this codes are not shown by key dance... at this point i do not know if is a wiring issue or is more complicated.

Unfortunately the above side bars don't fit Stow n Go models

I guess no-one has had a similar problem.  But it's getting worse.  As well as the previously mentioned occurrences, the wipers started to cycle once during the "episode".  There are no fault codes ( garage cannot find the problem source ) so I tried a simple "re-boot" by disconnecting the battery, waiting 30 minutes and re-connecting.  It did not cure the problem.  But more issues have arisen.  Now, the alarm keeps going off for no apparent reason, and the DAB radio ( plugged into the AUX on the radio ) has stopped working - although the radio / satnav / CD all work fine.  If it's a processor, I would have thought that a code would show.  Anyway, it's driving me nuts.

Am having exactly the same problem with alarm going off, instruments recycling etc. and hazards flashing occasionally. If you have got anywhere with this I'd really appreciate your input. Thanks, Gareth

Must be no dash display
 
         

The last link shows what happens if there is no code to display. It seems the car's on board diagnostic agrees with your cheapo.