Andrewgrale
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Posts posted by Andrewgrale
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The only problem with the ypsilon is the engine choice. The 4 cylinder 1.2 petrol is woeful, the 1.3jtdm is ok, as is the 875cc twinair poss the bbest but not many were sold unfortunately.
Rev the nuts off the 1.2 and it flies, no power or torque low down on those engines!!!
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Those relays in the boot I have removed, and the right indicator still works. But I'm looking for the flasher unit. The one that would click when the indicator is on.
I'm not really sure, but speaking from a Fiat background, the relay could be in the column switch???
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I need to change the pads in mine soon - I know its not normally the most difficult job in the world but any "How-to" advice appreciated as not done on the Delta before................
Neil, are you intending to do both front and rears?
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Just to update this, I fitted new rear brake pads to my wife's Delta and to find the lever/cable adjuster (you can't wind back the calipers until you take the pressure off the cables) you need a 4mm allen key socket and a long extension to remove the bolt at the bottom of the bottle cooler in the centre console, remove this and the feed tube to access the 10mm adjuster beneath, you will need a ratchet spanner and the dexterity of an ambidextrous, double jointed, piano playing midwife to get at it,but it can be done!!!!
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Just to add, I have recently fitted Brembo brake pads to my wife's Delta 1.4 multiair and I'm highly impressed with them vs the 65,000 mile originals they replaced :-)
The only fly in the ointment is that the replacement pads don't have the wee drilling for the pad wear sensors, which are pressed into the pads and are fitted to all 4 corners (now taped up and secured)
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damn, file too large, I give up. Give me a cambelt change any day.....
Send the picture from your phone, to your phone number and it will reduce the file size, without much effect on quality
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It's a Peugeot Partner teepee outdoor, so same as Citroen Berlingo Multispace.
I stand corrected hehehe ;-)
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Erm I bought a Peugeot actually :-)
Although I am quite partial to the odd Fart in a tin lol, having owned a few...
Can't believe you haven't heard them called that before!
Fiat . . Citroen . . Peugeot . . Toyota . . They're all the same now
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I allready have 2nd hand in my car
I found some nice ones here:
Oooopssssss! Forgot that you are a Cloghie :-D! Well wear, they look nice
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Except every time you open the door you're reminded your a Fart in a tin!
You ever hear of a permanent black marker????
Fart in a tin???? Says the fella who sold his Delta because he bought a . . Fiat . . Shall I repeat . . . Fiat! Van !!!!
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Where's the raspberry imoji when you need it!
Cheers fella... another year
olderwiser!
You wish ;-)
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Came across this . . has to be a decent price and possibly useful to someone here ?????
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Sammy it's always difficult to diagnose over the internet... but I'm assuming you're transfering the buttons over from the existing fascia? When I changed my headunit and changed the fascia for a piano black one, I remember having to unscrew the pcb board and take it all apart then re-assemble into to the new fascia. Is that what you're doing and they're still not fitting?
That link also looks like a cheap aftermarket part? Maybe if you're doing as I did, then the part is the problem, not the buttons?
Nothing to add, but sometimes Mikey makes sense :-D
(ps, belated birthday wishes)
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Fiat Bravo 2007-
Are the exact same fit, I know this for certain as that's what I fitted to my wife's Delta
50 quids !!!!!
2nd hand Delta
25 quids!!!
hope this helps
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Welcome along Lampard and I hope that your ownership of Mikey's car is a pleasant experience
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Welcome along Sammy and well wear!!!
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I just came across this problem and my expertise is more with the Fiat family group of cars, but the 1st place I would start is with the battery earth lead, especially where it is connected to the gearbox, Fiat use sealant to seal the 2 halves of the gearbox together, which gets into the threads of the bolt used to secure the engine earth lead. It's double threaded to allow the earth lead to be secured by nut to the head of the bolt.
Bad earths usually surface after this has been disconnected for major work, such as a clutch or gearbox or engine change
Clean up this bolt head and the earth lead especially where it bolts to both chassis and gearbox
I hope this helps?
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Having been through the process, I'd definitely recommend taking the plunge - the VRT was suprisingly reasonable in my experience (2.0 LTD) - that was nearly 2 years ago so should be even less now
Go for it - you won't regret it
If you've any questions, feel free to give me a shout - I'm based in Co Meath
Ditto from me, except I'm in Munster and it was a Delta SE multiair for us
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Provided that the fuel and air filters are in good condition and there are no cracked pipework, my gut feeling is that it sounds like a manifold pressure sensor, these have been known to clog up and fail. I would also check around the fuel filter for little leaking seals, as if diesel can get out, air can get in!!!
- MikeyRules and Nello
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Thanks. I think if the "right" bits turn up at the right money, I'll probably swap them, but I'm happy with it as it is.
Andrewgrale, you did spook me a bit re. the K&N. I've used the before in my cars when I did an awful lot more miles than I do now (Accord VTEC Coupe, Rover Tomcat, MG ZT, Celica) and never had an issue. I only fitted one because of the god-awful rigmarole changing them seems to be on the Delta, so a fit and forget for 4 to 5 years seemed a good idea. I did a bit of digging and the problem seems to arise when users clean, then over-oil them. K&N recommend cleaning every 50k, which on my current annual mileage is about 5 years away. The car will also be over 100k by then, so I think I'll take the risk
My apologies for spooking you TJB, I am speaking from experience as I had a K&N in one of my Marea JTDs and it was never serviced (ie as factory supplied) and it was responsible for burning out 2 hotwire MAFs over 40k miles before I switched back to the standard filter for the remaining 120k I did in that car on the 3rd MAF
Brake Pads Choice
in Chrysler Delta
Posted
1. Loosen the wheel bolts a half turn
2. Jack up the car and stick in an axle stand
3. Remove the wheel bolts and remove the wheel, be aware that the wheel may be stuck to the hub (loosening the wheel bolts before you jack up should allow the wheel to break the corrosion seal)
4. Using a flat screwdriver, pry the pads back in the caliper, to clean any dust and dirt from the pad slides
5. Using a 12 (possibly a 13mm) spanner loosen the caliper retaining bolts and swing the caliper out of the way
6. Lever out the pads, doing 1 side at a time, taking notice of the position of the anti rattle clips (new ones are usually supplied with pads, if not, the old ones are perfectly fit to reuse)
7. Using a brake winder press in the caliper piston (do this slowly, as the brake fluid presses back into the brake fluid pot, via the master cylinder and if done too quickly, it has been reported that the seals could turn)
8. Reassemble the caliper, using the new bolts supplied
9. Before you refit the wheel, coat the mating surfaces in a light coat of copper grease
10. Coat the threads of the wheel bolts with WD40, tighten up hand tight and torque/tighten them when the wheel on the ground
11. Repeat for the other side