mikebh8

Hi, you just push towards the dashboard the accessories belt pully( I think it is a 16mm...I recently worked on it but I can't remember) and take off the belt.
Once the alternator's bolts are loose you have to wiggle the alternator back and forth and it will come out.
Pay attention when the belt is back on that is in place well on all the pullies.
If you forget how it was, make a drawing on a piece of paper( on Chrysler there is usually a diagram on top of the radiator under the bonnet)
 
Most important, remove the battery terminals while working on it.
 
Hope it helps.

Hiya Qinteq,
 
huh what ? What ref to DTC's?
 
The OP asked how to switch ON the traction control, and said his switch was stuck.
And didn't mention a problem, and hasn't commented on - the other replies (so come on fella chip back in)
 
Has the OP @@roberttherebel57 got TRAC OFF lit up on his dash below the mileometer / trip?
 
Or were you simply asking, as you were interested, as you didn't realise it's always on?

I gave up with the dealers as soon as it was out of warranty and have been looking after things myself ever since. When it went in for the last airbag recall I was waiting on drop links to arrive so I could replace them myself and the 'dealer'  said, Oh do you know that one of the 'anti tension units' needs replacing? How much I asked? £842.23 was the reply! I asked them to explain in detail which part they were referring to? Seems that a pair of drop links cost around £30, ditto poly bushes, but if you fit Chrysler 'anti tension units' they come in a tad more expensive!! Same part just way more expensive
The good news is there is nothing left to replace on the front end and its now handling as it should, could have been worse! I've put around £3k into upgrade parts that needed replacing over the last seven years but when you consider a dealer also quoted me £57 for a new oil cap and £48 for a sump plug, no, not a joke, then can you imagine what the dealer cost would have been?  These are pretty simple cars, mechanically, and once the rubbish bits are junked and replaced with decent ones they should go on for many many years. Fingers crossed...

Is something I suggested to another 300c owner( at least the area where to look), I hope he reads this thread and sorts his clunking noise too.
Very common of Ford too.
The dealer doesn't want you to solve the problems with £13,50-15, they want you to spend hundreds if not thousands, I've been to a Chrysler dealer once, never in my life again.
Glad it was that simple, sad it took a lot of money for you to get there.

Hi, to me it sounds the alternator is gone.
It happened once on a L200, but I put the battery the other way around...more or less the same thing.
If you have a multimeter, on DC with the engine idling, you should get around 14 volts.
You probably think that if it would be the alternator you will have the battery light coming on the dash, not always.
 
Hope it helps.

Hi Mate thanks for the reply Ive done what you suggested and it s worked Thanks for the advice 

Hi, I recently upgraded my key with the one in the pictures bellow.
For who is interested, the blank was £7 ( ebay) and the key to be cut £3 ( local asda)
 
The picture named "gv key" I added it just to show how not to do it, it did not start the engine with the chip in that position.
The chip needs to be as per picture named "gv key 2".
What I also did was to glue a bit of paper under the chip so no connection is made between the chip and the remote's circuit board.
 
Moreover, the panic button works, I hope I will never need it for its purpose... but is good when finding the car in a large parking lot.
 
 
Hope it helps.

Oh well that makes him one of the lucky ones, I think! There are times I wish I had bought anything other than my 300s, yes I was stupid enough to try a 300c & 300m. But I forgive them every time I catch a glimpse out of the corner of my eye. Still bashing away with the M version and still being frustrated by the front end clunk but man alive it is quick and surprisingly comfortable! Well other than when lying underneath it!

Hi, the one I know at the local scrapyard is 3.3 petrol so I could only help with the wing switch, I have that problem with one of my cars, rain got inside the buttons and now the passenger window it comes down but it doesn't go up unless I pull the switch many times and it goes up little by little. You could try removing the switch and clean it with a fine sand paper and wd40 otherwise needs replacing.
As per the leakage, try turn the nuts more they might be loose if someone did any work on it in the past and left them loose by mistake,
 
Hope it helps.

Nice one, welcome.
I'm sure you will find good info here as it helped me when I was struggling with mine.
Enjoy the ride.

When mine was boiling, it pushed out the lower radiator hose, so assuming is boiling, there is still a loose connection where the water is escaping from. Mind that there is pressure in the system when the driving temperature is reached. In the expansion bottle cap fault would be that it does not allow the water to be sucked back in the system while is cooling, my opinion at least.

Hi, I assume rear right is car's point of view and not by looking at it( just to clarify is not the gearbox side).
Behind there is the original thermostat and oil cooler which has water hoses as well. Slightly behind is the water pump too, more to the side but I guess a leak would be pushed behind the engine.
Plus, by topping only a litre every once in a while means it looses only when the engine is on otherwise would loose more and you will see it on the floor where the car is parked. Any of those connections could be loose.
Leaving the car running on idle, you could spot it by removing the wiper blades, wiper motor cover and wiper motor enclosure and you can see exactly if is from there.
 
Hope it helps.

The immobiliser code is stored within the ECU, the SKIM only reads the data and transfers it to the ECU, I may be wrong, you can always try first without replacing the ECU and update this post if it does, in my case it didn't until I replaced the ECU as well.

Check for the turbo actuator that opens and close properly, dirt in the recirculation pipes, has the car done short trips for a long period of time?
These cars are usually used on school runs, that type of driving is the worse for a diesel. You could try a turbo cleaner but if the carbon built up severely against the pipes, it may not work unless pipes are dismantled and cleaned properly.

Hi, if you want to use the keys you have to remove the ECU( it will be a match only if the engines are the same), the locks on all the doors along with the ignition barrel and the part that goes around the ignition barrel that is screwed bellow the steering wheel column.
As per the remote, under the dash above the instrument cluster, is the central lock module, you will need that, also you can pair the remotes from the other car with existing module( I personally didn't do it yet as I was busy with other stuff), even if you replace all the above keep the removed ones, you might need them.

I've noticed this morning, my neighbour's car was full of water on the inside of the windscreen and mine wasn't, I am just lucky I guess, however it is not normal.
A quick fix, until the real problem is found and solved, is few socks full of cat litter sand under the seats.
To check for where the humidity comes in through...check for any missing or loose rubber caps between the engine bay and inside the car, door trims and water leaks.
I personally wouldn't be scrapping (or wiping with a cloth for that matter) the inside of the windshield. Leave the heat on for extra minutes if required.
 
Hope it helps.

Great, and hey we all get it mixed in our head at times, I know I do often enough!
Since leaving longer got you starting easier, chances are one or more of the glow plugs aren't working. Test each one, you should get resistance to ground from the tip of each plug. I did a howto video a whole back on testing and replacing.
 
They're cheap enough, but one of the 4 plugs are a pig to get at (left most, behind alternator). If you're lucky and have the right shape/angle sockets you can do it, otherwise it's Aux belt loose, alternator moved job. All DIY do-able though, just take your time so you don't snap them in their housing.

Rev
 
 
Revving to what RPM, a limiter kicks in to stop you doing it !
Bright super shiny pink !
What 'soupstone' said .. .. .. never ever anything else !

I've made dozens of posts on this:
 
"Put you REG in here"
 
Hardly ever works correctly. You were born with a VIN number anyone can trace the exact precise build to them minute. REG numbers can be and are changed in any country in the world, if they used the REG to interrogate the VIN that would do but that takes time and they could have asked for the VIN in the 1st place.
 
Most useless Voyager dBase's don't even know about stow 'n go and many don't recognise pre-2008, in my view these 'hands off, no humans' dBASE are pretty inaccurate and put you at risk as Nev says!

Good news.
 
Whilst my car was in the garage and the hand brake set up was being done
New hand brake cables, discs, pads and fixing kit.
I asked me mechanic to check a couple of things whilst he had it all in bits and he discovered that the main nut that was holding the rear drive shaft on, had come lose (wow). So whilst it was moving around the sensor was not in line with the CV ring and was not reading it, and was always giving am intermittent problem.
So all solved and no orange lights on the dash, cheap and cheerful.
Thanks for the advice.
 
Paul

Agree with qinetiq, needs to be about half way up summer or winter, plus if it doesn't go over the half, which is about 90 degrees Celsius, the fans will not start.
Put the engine cover on and close the bonnet, in less than a half an hour the fans should start otherwise investigate further.

Hi, I have a price: 41, 48.
They do want payment in advance...
So, if you think of a solution.
I can only assume they will ask for an uk credit or debit card, they do take payments over the phone or someone can go in the office and order the part.
 
Let me know what you think.

Hi, I got through the local main dealer, it moved from Chrysler Westover...to Jeep Westover( they changed name and location).
I am waiting for a price from him as the system wasn't loading fast enough.
If you wish to contact them, you have to say it is a right hand side driver, they will ask that along with a number plate or chassis number(don't use the chassis number as it comes up left hand drive..if anyone that reads this message could post their number plate would be easier for the guy to find the right part...it should be only one part coming up but the guy at the phone said it comes up with more models.
I'll let you know what the price is soon as he contacts me.

Hi, I have a price: 41, 48.
They do want payment in advance...
So, if you think of a solution.
I can only assume they will ask for an uk credit or debit card, they do take payments over the phone or someone can go in the office and order the part.
 
Let me know what you think.

Hi, I got through the local main dealer, it moved from Chrysler Westover...to Jeep Westover( they changed name and location).
I am waiting for a price from him as the system wasn't loading fast enough.
If you wish to contact them, you have to say it is a right hand side driver, they will ask that along with a number plate or chassis number(don't use the chassis number as it comes up left hand drive..if anyone that reads this message could post their number plate would be easier for the guy to find the right part...it should be only one part coming up but the guy at the phone said it comes up with more models.
I'll let you know what the price is soon as he contacts me.