mikebh8

Ok, thanks. I'll give it another go tomorrow morning.

...you took an injector from a 3.3 (petrol) and tried to fit it on a 2.5 (diesel)?!?!
 
You pushed the car around, did you hear any compression, it could be piston rings loosing compression.
If indeed piston banged the injector, you could have a cracked piston.
Try turn it by hand from the crankshaft, if it doesn't spin the piston/s are sized, if it does spin but there is no compression is one or more piston rings.
 
If you have compression and the engine turns by hand OK, it could be that the different injector (not by appearance but by the inside parts set on different values) kicked in the auto shutdown?!
 
Hope it helps.

Hi, yes I meant the oil filter, also check the link bellow for a fix.
 

 
Could you do the key dance and post here what error codes you have if any....related to oil should be P0520 up to P0524.
Thanks.

Hi, I recently upgraded my key with the one in the pictures bellow.
For who is interested, the blank was £7 ( ebay) and the key to be cut £3 ( local asda)
 
The picture named "gv key" I added it just to show how not to do it, it did not start the engine with the chip in that position.
The chip needs to be as per picture named "gv key 2".
What I also did was to glue a bit of paper under the chip so no connection is made between the chip and the remote's circuit board.
 
Moreover, the panic button works, I hope I will never need it for its purpose... but is good when finding the car in a large parking lot.
 
 
Hope it helps.

Hi, sorry for late reply, I found what it was.
In the picture attached you will see a red circle, all that section was filled with oil and carbon debris. Plus the thermostat was blocked.

That's the one, just look for the year as the newer ones look the same but they come with newer year models. Mine is only up to 2014 for example.
No need for extra software, windows firewall and antivirus turned off and it should work.

Hi, the P0344 code is also related to starter motor and/or starter circuit.
DVD screen not working there was a post about it here somewhere, is a connection at the back of the display.
 
Hope it helps.

Hi, I use a Delphi 150e and goes around 40-50 pounds now, I am happy with it, used it many other makes and models, found ABS faults, DPF regeneration, component testing and more.
 
Hope it helps.

To me it sounds like the front wheels blocked but the rear ones no, I would investigate the braking system.
At the back of the car, attached on the axle there is a distributor for rear brakes, investigate see if is working properly.
Hope it helps.

Try to find your model in the link below. It is a manual with pictures and detailed texts which I found very useful.
 
http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service%20Manuals/

What I do, is turn the engine clockwise and pull the belt, there is a tool for that but I never really needed to decide buying it.
I can see the crankshaft pulley even with the cover on so it is not fully covered...I will investigate the length of the belt/s, I couldn't find a model without air compressor so I can only assume the accessories belt was an improvised match, try measuring it and find a smaller one by 2-3 mm, should stop the squicking.
 
Hope it helps.

...I was looking online for more info without realising I had the info needed right in front of me:
By moving the mouse pointer on the wire abbreviation it tells the colour, so here you have:

(You should get the software is better and better discovering new stuff every time I use it)

hbl- light blue
hgn- light green

Hi, there is no tensioner for the steering belt.
The squick could be because the inner wheel arch cover is missing?!
The belt at some point was replaced with few mm longer one, I had once a difference of 2mm and was squicking( different car)
 
Also, if the compressor was removed a different accessories belt was fitted, could be that squicking?! again wrong size.
 
Hope it helps.

https://www.hitechcontrols.com/cables/technical-information/48-color-abbreviations.html
 
Hope it helps.

It depends how good yoy are with mechanics...by the time you find the brushes you take it to a local mechanic, I usually pay £10-20 depends. If you don't get them right it can damage the rotor, I prefer taking it to someone that does this for a living.
 
Also keep in mind that playing with the negative (earth) it creates high inrush current that can damage the starter, if not damaged already.

Don't mistake alternator with starter.
Probably just a typing error but to make sure, the starter is low below attached near the gearbox that engages the flywheel.

Yes.

The test for the boost sensor is made with the plug in?...did you have your engine running while the plug disconnected?!?!?!
If you did, most likely the check engine light came on, if it doesn't turn off disconnect the battery terminals for 20-30 mins and see if that helps.
 
Anyway, I believe the reading are not good readings, so I will wait until you reply to this topic with the reading when engine running because even if you took the readings with the engine on..after disconnecting the plug you will have wrong measurements.
 
Have a look at the picture attached, if the values don't mach my previous post, chase the cables and do a polarity test checking for any physical damage.
 
The boost sensor is labelled B105 and the MAF is B101 
Terminal number 3 from boost sensor goes to the MAF sensor terminal number 2

I didn't have time to take mine apart to post a picture but it should have a wire there with an electronic component, I can't say if it is  resistor or not.
If you search it online you could see it.
 
Hope it helps.

Try to find your model in the link below. It is a manual with pictures and detailed texts which I found very useful.
 
http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service%20Manuals/

Tonight do this: after a half an hour an hour trip, disconnect the battery terminal and che k tomorrow what voltage do you get.
Is the battery good?

If is 12.5v after one overnight it is something wrong with the electrics.
I bet if left two three days it does not start anymore, if I were you I would investigate further...
As per the fault code, have you ruled out the sensor first, I don't remember exactly but I gave these tests to someone else as well:
-pin 3 and 5(plug disconnected) testing the maf sensor you should have 336000 ohmi with 18 Celsius outside
-4 and 5 disconnected testing the maf sensor you should have 340000 ohmi
-2 and earth disconnected testing the supply( wiring) with ignition on you should have 11-14 v
-3 and 4 plug connected engine at idle you should have 5v
3 and 5 plug connected engine at idle you should have 1.6v
 
Same fault code applies for the turbocharger boost pressure sensor and test is as per below:
-pin 1 and 4 connected and engine at idle you should have 1.6v
-pin 1 and 4 connected engine at 2500 rpm you should have 2v.
 
Hope it helps.

I often use autodoc.co.uk and buycarparts.co.uk for parts. They quote £25.66 and £26.08 for the rear left brake pipe

To add on Andy's inspection, mine when was faulty, the "magnetic" bit of the sensor was covered in black staff and slightly damaged.
Try removing them and clean the surface with an alcoholic product.