gordy

Was going to say it's the the bearings in the alternator, as it hums when they go dry. But you say the humming comes and goes..Well possible idea.

OK !
ELECTRONIC CRUISE CONTROLOn late model vehicles with electronic throttle control, the cruise control system is fully electronic. The cruise control switch on the steering wheel or steering column sends your inputs to the Body Control Module (BCM), which then passes it along to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), unless the system is wired to send your inputs directly to the PCM via dedicated wiring or the controller area network (CAN) bus.
The PCM notes the speed setting you requested when you turned the cruise control system on. It then looks at the actual vehicle speed via the input from the transmission vehicle speed sensor(VSS). The PCM then calculates how much throttle is needed to maintain the requested speed.
The PCM then commands the actuator motor on the throttle shaft to open or close the throttle to increase or decrease engine RPM and vehicle speed so the actual speed matches the requested speed. The PCM also monitors inputs from the transmission (so it knows what gear the transmission is in), and the position of the brake pedal (so it can temporarily deactivate cruise control when you step on the brakes). Depending on the sophistication of the system, it may also look at inputs from the ABS (antilock brake) system and/or stability control system.
When the cruise control system is engaged, the PCM also monitors the position of the throttle and/or accelerator pedal. If you step on the gas to pass another car, your foot temporarily overrides the cruise control system's set speed. When you release the accelerator pedal, your car will decelerate and resume the previous speed setting.
 
CRUISE CONTROL WON'T ENGAGEThe cruise control system will NOT engage if any of the following conditions are present:
 
* The transmission is in Park, Neutral, Reverse or Low gear
* The clutch is disengaged (clutch pedal depressed)
* The vehicle is traveling less and 25 to 30 mph (varies depending on year/make/model of vehicle)
* The driver is holding his foot on the brake pedal (or the brake pedal switch is showing a constant application of the brakes)
* There is no input from the vehicle speed sensor (which will also prevent the speedometer from working)
* Engine speed and/or throttle position does not match the commanded position
* Electrical voltage to the PCM or other components in the system is too low (less than 9 volts)
* The ABS or Traction Control system has been active for more than two seconds (this may vary depending the application)
* Vehicle speed is excessive (some cruise control systems are programmed NOT to work above a certain maximum speed for safety reasons (typically 90 mph or faster)
* The system's self-diagnostics has detected a fault and set a code. This will deactivate the system and prevent it from functioning until the fault is diagnosed and repaired.

Just a wee thought..Is the ABS light coming on then off when key inserted then started ?!! Dick Dasteredly mensioned this some time ago.

Trigger terminal. We bu**er. Had this loose push on terminal on my girlie. Went on for months. Knew what it was, but but going under bonnet those many times to wiggle it seemed like a new dance. Then it wouldn't start at all, even wi a wiggle. Starter motor was goosed this time. So motor replaced but trigger connection secured with sma machine screw, great, two jobs sorted in one.

I think somehow you will get fuel pressure coming up.

Gordy, always found the allpar site good for my clue-stick-slap, but not CRD or even Chrysler but all brands are the same parent.
 
One - https://www.allpar.com/forums/threads/removing-the-crankshaft-position-sensor.143426/
Two - https://www.allpar.com/index.php
 
Best of luck lad.

Made a tool, wellsort of tool with house repair plates, get them at Wicks, Screwfix, etc. Galvanised plates with many holes, some shaped ones used to hold floor batons onto wall boards. Made 2 up with 10mm bolt, nuts, like big pliers. Will take picy sometime. The things one gets up too nowadays.

Cutting out completely and not just to limp mode is usually caused by boost pressure and the sensor. Check sensor first as it can get severely gummed up. Other place to look is turbo actuator for freeness and that it actually works. 

Cutting out completely and not just to limp mode is usually caused by boost pressure and the sensor. Check sensor first as it can get severely gummed up. Other place to look is turbo actuator for freeness and that it actually works. 

No pics, I was so ' kissed' off I had no time for coffee.  
I hooked the last one closest on the middle two coils only to reinforce (holding) a bit of a banana. 700 ft.-lbs Milwaukee cranked to full couldn't even get an extra 1/4 turn - terrifying, no idea of tensile on the cheepo Amazon bars I bought - capable of shearing threaded bar.
 
So the x4 did the job the 5th was my insurance. Still got to do the other side, not looking forward to it. They were both ripe but only the O/S was clicking karmanski. I'm still lugging one brand new side round waiting for some divine intervention.
 
1+6

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDUrohx2HYI

Cutting out on booting it nothing to do with Crank Sensor. Crank sensor often doesn't leave a code when it goes as it just goes. Try the MAP which logs the boost pressure, you might just get away with cleaning it as its normally covered with carbon crud. If it doesn't cut out engine and just go into temp cut power mode, its the Turbo actuation side like operation of the gate actuator. Look for P0235 here. 

Hopefully found the fault, looks like its the header tank cap,
I have the overflow into a small bottle with a little coolant in , as soon as the slightest pressure starts to build it escapes into the bottle ,  had a new 13 lbs cap so changed it for the original - no more bubbles in the bottle , took the car out for a decent drive today, heater worked fine all the time, temp stayed at 1/2, as soon as I pulled up at home I popped the bonnet, the coolant was bang on level no bubbles in the bottle
 have ordered a correct 16 lbs cap + I will flush and refill with the correct coolant 
Mine has the aux heater so I will remove the pipe under the car to drain just to make sure I get all the old coolant out
Thanks
Dave

Do the job the correct way. (1) Forward flush [notbackflush] to get a lifetimes gunk out (2) use only HOAT Comma G05 Xstream coolant.

When I did my "inlineMOD" I :

- used 5L G05 +5L de-ionised water
- hose pipe in the expansion bottle, loosen bottom hose CRITICAL ** set temp to highest/fan set to highest to clear the matrix
- clean hose in water @ same rate as dirty out
- when perfectly clear
- tighten bottom hose
- 5L G05 + 5L de-ionised in expansion bottle
- start engine / full heat / full fan blower
- let it ''burp' from filler cap until it reaches temp
Never back-flush, best of luck.

From the experience of my little stand-in Panda Multijet which went off the road months ago. Repairs just getting done on the side by my mechanic friend so labour cost at a min (price must be high for this job). Access down back of engine almost zero like Voyager but worse.
After starting with smoke and clearing after a mile it got to point where it smoked for miles so pulled it off road. Also had fumes in cab problem.
But Voyager had repairs over winter repaired and MOT done. Driving her now...Nice warm bum returns.
Found one injector with black death and another with copper seal missing (really) so decided to change all. Still smoked after injectors replaced. Time to check out EGR system and inlet manifold. Well inlet manifold is choked almost full, turbo pressure must have kept it going. EGR pipework blocked completely.
Mechanic says job would be easier taking the engine out of car and doing repairs. Don't forget that the cylinder head ports get Clogged as well so its a vac out job as you scrap scrap. 
But saying that the little Panda has all the dogs whistles in pollution control fitments fitted (DPF+EGR+ETC) so how many more Panda's are there out there just waiting to give their owners a shock to these repairs. 

Mines cost around £1600 after the belt snapped. I'd go with the £450

Good buy take it before it vanishes. Job down for 4 hours whoever does it. So from your average garage they will be wanting about £70/hr, mine cost £450 back in 2013 without pump (seems to have not needed it). Chrysler garage £125/hr minimum, quoted £750 for job. Belt and wheels should be about £150. Add water pump here as its driven by same belt. So Labour about £280 + Parts around £150 = total £430 not far away. Your choice but its a tight working space.  

Good buy take it before it vanishes. Job down for 4 hours whoever does it. So from your average garage they will be wanting about £70/hr, mine cost £450 back in 2013 without pump (seems to have not needed it). Chrysler garage £125/hr minimum, quoted £750 for job. Belt and wheels should be about £150. Add water pump here as its driven by same belt. So Labour about £280 + Parts around £150 = total £430 not far away. Your choice but its a tight working space.  

On your sliding door problem, I don't know if they will, but for a test do the wiring assemblies swap left to right or are they slightly different connectors on the ends?
 
I am quite sure there is a difference of some sort, as they are a different part number, from when I bought mine.
 
Yep I agree, a button for the tailgate as per the side doors would have been very useful, but given all the wiring and ecu for it, it may be a complicated job.
Or it could be a doddle - jack into the wires for the overhead console switch? If there are only 2....... I have no idea.
Or not??!!

Hi guys. A cautionary tale that I hope will be of use. In a nutshell we discovered that our mechanic and very likely he had followed what previously had been done, had fitted the pad retaining spring ends in the wrong place. This resulted in the whole caliper feeling loose/floating about and wearing the pads at an angle overheating and cracking a piston. Very useful photos came up on google in next to no time. Cheers.

Keep a watch on that there Aux Heater exhaust hose for excessive water or coolant as mine went with near engine cooking.

If your GV has a (1) Webasto fitted and many Ltd editions of the 2.8 do .... and (2) you keep your fuel higher than 1/4 tank and .... (30 your heating is set to digital auto, an extra light will come on the 'highbrow' to signal its switched on automatically. This Webasto under the drivers seat area of the floor will "express" excess moisture and diesel from the 'burn bowl' - looks like loosing coolant but isn't !
 
 

Big shoe Horn between underside of light and top of bumper will do the trick.

Big shoe Horn between underside of light and top of bumper will do the trick.