Leaderboard

Yes the front DRL's are separate unlike the rear unit... https://www.ebay.it/itm/FARO-LUCE-DIURNA-A-LED-DESTRO-LANCIA-DELTA-DAL-2008-CON-FARI-XENON-MARELLI/182289942216?fits=Year%3A2008%7CIT_Make%3ALancia%7CIT_Model%3ADelta+III&hash=item2a7153c6c8:g:jrMAAOSw8w1X5BLF

I need to do mine as there's a small Philips screwdriver dropped somewhere down my NSF wing!

Yes as Mike says Andrew - once they go I think you will find thats it unfortunately and a replacement unit will be required. That said I've not heard of another DRL unit issue before..... Quick look on Italian ebay though show they are similar money as the rear units - circa 175Euro If I see a cheapie I'll let you know!

...it does sound like fuel starvation, What about the quality of fuel. I once went to France with cooking oil, all fine until next day(-2 or -4 it was) when it did not want to start until I drained two batteries and towed it about 400 metres. But once started it was like running in three pistons and a bit smokey. I do apologize if I go randomly but hoping at least will take you near the fault...

Hi, you just push towards the dashboard the accessories belt pully( I think it is a 16mm...I recently worked on it but I can't remember) and take off the belt. Once the alternator's bolts are loose you have to wiggle the alternator back and forth and it will come out. Pay attention when the belt is back on that is in place well on all the pullies. If you forget how it was, make a drawing on a piece of paper( on Chrysler there is usually a diagram on top of the radiator under the bonnet) Most important, remove the battery terminals while working on it. Hope it helps.

Yep pretty damn certain it's alternator as mike said, from the earlier info too. If the voltage didn't change with it running. My petrol wasn't bad at all to swap, getting the belt back on by myself was a sod!

First: with the engine on, and no charging, no decent mechanic would suggest to replace the battery. I would check the alternator, probably someplace else. With the engine running remove the battery, if the engine stops there is no charge. Also, if his software shows 14 something volts and on your multimeter 11.9, and if the software is right, it means the leads from the alternator to the battery are damaged. Check with your multimeter, at the alternator( there is a 13mm nut at the side/top) and against the body of the car, see what reading you get. For the resistor to check it's value, please look at the link below https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=resistor+colour+code+chart&oq=resistor+code+colour&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l3.5802j0j7&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=fKPKoho7ClunYM: I never done the so called "buttonmod", where you got the info should specify what size you need. Hope it helps.

I used the quote from Leedsman in the last post of this thread: http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/895-06-starting-issue/ HTH R

They can be fixed, it worth taking to a local repair shop, I sometimes pay £10. If is just the alternator regulator or brushes. Plus for wrong polarity more than likely the regulator is gone as that is the entry point of the current. Otherwise between 80 and 160. But again if yours is original (usually Bosch) try fixing it first.