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Flat Battery Again


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#21 bignev

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Posted 23 May 2020 - 02:59 PM

Aha! Right then I'm with it, I think!

 

Don't worry - you're in good company with old and rambling - I have a reputation amongst my customers for talking (a lot), going off at a tangent (Ronnie Corbett in that chair anyone?) and coming back, and getting a bit of work done too. Good job I work on a price, not on an hourly rate, they'd never have me back!!!!

 

So we could have a whole host of functions that are off line right now, along with the alarm.

 

But what could - possibly - maybe - if we're lucky - be the case is also that the alarm will now be quiet as the handshake to the key immobiliser has happened? And there is no longer a problem?

 

I'm with @QinteQ on sod the neighbours, the problem needs sorting and there is only one way to know.

I am presuming you are normally a respectable member of the community - as you clearly care because you haven't just done it up to now, so if they can't accept that poop happens, and to sort it may cause a bit of noise for a short while this afternoon, or in the morning, well knickers to them :lol:  :P  (but perhaps not at 11 tonight ) 

 

Stick that fuse back in and have the door open ready to shove the key in !!! :D

Let the car see the transponder in the key, at ON position, and hopefully you may be good again - fingers crossed.

 

 

I'm just youngster at almost 54, but we've been keeping ourselves very much well out of circulation, with our twin 7 year olds!

And I quite agree we have been so lucky compared to a large number of poor people.

Not my direct friends or customers, but some only once removed, have died from it. Awful.

A bloke I do know was on a ventilator - that really is an understated thing isn't it, it's ruddy life support - but came through, about a month ago, and he is still totally crock now.

 

I'm a heating & gas engineer (well currently, but I quite like this semi retirement pace!) and have lots of elderly customers, so made the decision to stop working around 16th March, as I did NOT want to carry that virus around into peoples homes. No matter how careful you try to be, it could happen.

I have been to a very small number of breakdowns & leaks, but only if I couldn't talk them through sorting it. One 87 year old lady I went to didn't reckon she was up to pulling the washing machine out  :D  :D

Those hand wipes I used for muck and oil turn out to be anti bacterial too!! Shame it's a virus, but I'm informed it'll still get killed by them.



#22 maxcaddy

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Posted 23 May 2020 - 04:14 PM

Okay, I will refit the fuse, but beforehand do a bit of an audit on what does/doesn't work without that fuse in.

 

I'm not sure of when the Key goes in ?, do I put the Key in the Ignition before I reconnect the battery, or as I have been doing, lift the bonnet reconnect the battery then put the key in to start ?

 

I'll try another Battery as the current one (Yuasa 5000) has now had a few sessions of going flat. 

 

So, why is 'alarm disable a nono' ?,  I am confident any thief/joy rider would want to nick something other than a battered 13 year old V'ger with 125,000 on the clock, and if they did I'd worry about insurance issues as and when it happens.

 

Lastly, I've not changed/messed with the electrics at all, especially as it's more than capable of being temperamental on its own. I do have the issue of the Radio/Clock turning itself off after 10 mins/a few miles, which sometimes comes back again, mostly not, but that's been going on for more than a year or so.


Edited by maxcaddy, 23 May 2020 - 04:14 PM.


#23 bignev

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Posted 23 May 2020 - 04:40 PM

Good choice mate! :)

 

And yes that would be very useful info if you go round it and see what isn't working without it in.

 

With the door open - I've had cars lock when the battery is reattached. 

 

I personally would put the battery back on, let it do its computer start up sequence for as long as you feel is required, perhaps listening to the clicks and clacks going on.

Then pop the fuse in, ready to leg it round and pop the key in, or have the Mrs handy sat in the car with the door open and she can put the key and turn it on.

(my apologies if that is a sexist or otherwise comment nowadays, perhaps "significant other half" would be more PC)

 

The alarm comment is probably as you guessed, insurers can and will be arses given any tiny wriggle room.

But unless they needed it for transporting a gang for a job it's probably fairly safe as you say, I agree!!

Good luck to them nicking mine!


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#24 QinteQ

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Posted 23 May 2020 - 06:09 PM

Yuasa generally good quality, but only a type 019 for 2.8CRD's. Never use the dreaded 'put your REG number in here' thing - always get enough plates for high demand cold weather starting, those dBase's always put you into petrol/spark not diesel compression with half the CCA and half the aH for starting. Always an SLI for our Mk's not AGM, were not START/STOP tech. NOTE all type 019 will not fit our battery tray without chonking bits off with an air-saw.

Your key IGN question answered by bignev is correct just connect terminals and wait and see outcome before IGN key inserted. Crap battery/infini amp/and lifestyle always lead to alarm issues. At the moment we all have crap batteries due to 'lifestyle' because of co¥id lockdown.

Best of luck.


https://www.amazon.c...asa 5000&sr=8-1

#25 bignev

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Posted 23 May 2020 - 11:33 PM

I've even been out with the battery charger on our petrol !!

And on the other car too, a petrol Subaru Outback 3.0 H6.

That came with a Euro Carparts special, a Lion brand (NOT Lithium Ion as it fools your brain into wishing), 480 cca, when 580 are available from Yuasa and Exide.

It's still doing the job so I'm holding out till winter  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  then I'll have an excuse for the Mrs.



#26 QinteQ

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Posted 24 May 2020 - 10:47 AM

Opinion

Less and less lead in them, Less and less quality of lead, EU forced 10% $hite lead from scrapyards into new batteries as a 'green climate' contribution gift to politics and a whole new industry was born into paying endless tax to governments. It used to be 4 bits of good wire through bulkhead, now it's tree sized looms computers controlled PCi signals poor quality Mexican aluminium.

Pre Y2k a 20 year old battery was still ok, these days they're not. You can still get Odeyssy who use virgin lead but salty price leaves a bad taste in your wallet. 90% scrap batteries are only sulfated not scrap. Under specified batteries are like domestic heating designed for 'planned deformation' and won't do the job requirement.
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#27 maxcaddy

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Posted 24 May 2020 - 08:47 PM

Well I did a quick check over and apart from the Radio (which can be a bit iffy anyway) everything worked, i.e. heated seat, lights, windows, wipers etc.

 

After connecting the Battery, I put the key in the ignition and the Speedo and Rev counter did a full sweep, which is what happens when trying to start when the Battery gets flat, only this time it cranked well and started straight away. The Heater Plug light didn't come on, but it started fine all the same.

 

I was going to try putting the 'Fuse' back in, but it was a lovely afternoon and I didn't have the nerve to upset the locals  :D, however I will go out over the next few days, and try it putting it back in when I find a quiet spot. 

 

I'm still wading through the mass of light bedtime reading a.k.a the links to the manuals  B) 


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#28 QinteQ

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Posted 24 May 2020 - 09:53 PM

Glad it worked for you.

I'm still sod the neibour's, they will understand if you talk to one them you know. You need a new battery I think my friend, certainly before next winter even if you persevere through the warm summer. BTW I don't know if your type 19, there's a range small to big for that post you made.

It's a big heavy cold lump to start and IMO needs to be near to 800CCA to feed both the high draw of the 2.8 limited toys and start UK winters. Take care.

#29 QinteQ

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Posted 27 May 2020 - 01:03 PM

Hiya @QinteQ , how are you keeping?

 

You definitely know more than me on that (but in my laziness I haven't looked up the diagram! :o )

 

What I couldn't grasp, reading back over the post, was that @maxcaddy seems to indicate that

 

In post 7 that "it all seems to run ok now" 

 

And in post 12 "At least that way I can put the Fuse back and not worry that the Alarm will go off again if I disconnect the Battery for a long while"

 

So I guessed it was out, but everything was working ok. 

 

Apart from the alarm.

 

But then I kind if got lost on whether the fuse was in or out, and confused as to what, right now, the problem actually is?

 

 

@maxcaddy I get that there was the problem with the alarm / siren going off, but is that not doing it now?

 

 

I have definitely confused myself!!!!!

 

 

HiYabignev

 

I'm as good as I'm as I'm gonna get, been cabin-up since Xmas GOV sms orders, apart from one 1/8th mile each way early January. Hope you and yours are ok lad. I see maxcaddy as a 'lifestyle' user who has an old underspec and under performing battery. who even with a new F19 Exide has lifestyle under use problems regardless. I certainly do [lifestyle-lack of use] and have had for a decade. So new SLI 80/800 will help but lifestyle will remain. You take care bud.



#30 bignev

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Posted 27 May 2020 - 08:24 PM

Yep keep you and yours safe pal! We've really been reluctant at doing anything.  There can be such halfwits in the shops on my rare visit, not a remote clue, and no sense, about keeping apart, when this covid becomes bright fluorescent colours for us I'll be less concerned!

 

And yes the infrequent lifestyle is rather at odds with these beasties diesel engines and tiddler battery. I've just been to the shed and the new one I took off the Kia Sedona 2.9 (before we sold it last year) is a significantly bigger rascal, as I've got the old one our Voyager next to it.



#31 QinteQ

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Posted 27 May 2020 - 10:41 PM

Opinion

America in 50's new housing builds all drives ramped up for flooding/builing laws engines big, thirsty and cheap petrol. Insane parts finder in any UK from Halfords to trade are "put your REG in here" and of course it thinks all American cars are 50a/400CCA small battery tray not in fact 800/85 big battery. All new batteries are prostituted substituted diluted scrapyard lead.

Hence

$hite EURO batteries but Varta AGM F19/start stop tech and Varta F18 SLI have both been good for me - ours are SLI tech. They both start our Mk but the AGM kills expensive auto smart 9 stage battery chargers.

Original 60 year design rear top-hat-drum "holding" brakes a nightmare to get set. Legacy of above housing only designed to stop car accident rolling back unattended into traffic. They rely on auto box locking pin holding car.

Batteries including Halfords posts on this site somewhere.

Take care buddy.
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