New Radiator Needed, Is This One Ok?

[Liam89]

So on top of all the issues my cars had recently today I’ve noticed a leak which I think is the radiator. I’ve found this one on eBay and think it’s the right one but there always seems so many variations! Car is a 2007 2.8crd auto and the rad I’ve found is here. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F272858499302

 

Many thanks

[BrianSherlock]

Hi Liam, I recently replaced my rad for Chrysler Voyager 2004 2.8 crd. My son in law found it from a radiator company in England.Cost under £100

Tell them every thing and ask for the size as you can check it. Not easy but poss. Good luck? Brian Sherlock

[BumBle02]

I have got a 2007 2 .8 crd and what one will fit mine just send your vin number and reg number and they will tell you. Jeff

[Liam89]

Thanks guys. Think I’m going to need to flush the system as I’m pretty sure it’s got OAT coolant and not HOAT which I believe is the one needed in these engines. Fun times ahead this week!!

[QinteQ]

Front, never ever 'back flush'. REM it will 'self breathe' any air out if you set the temp to full whack with the fan on to get any air out of the heater matrix.

 

Best of luck.

[Liam89]

How many times should I flush do you think? Just do it until the water is clear? Also can I use RODI water instead of distilled? You say only front flush never back flush I assume I would just drain from the rad, re fill with water, drive with heater on, then drain that off and repeat?

I feel luck is no where to be seen with this car at the moment!

[QinteQ]

Alloy corrodes so these rads don't silt up but the alloy particulates form a solid clump blocking the RAD and often the STAT, the STAT however is designed to always stick in the 'open' position.

 

The solid matter in mine was probably the use of non-HOAT and not using distilled water, so no recommend inhibitors.

 

I did mine old school .. .. ..

 

- car running, heater full belt on manual not e-setting

- switch engine off

- remove cap from expansion bottle, insert garden hose

- slack off bottom hose a little

- switch engine on, heater full belt on manual not e-setting

- regulate the clean water in speed [expansion bottle] to the [bottom hose] dirty water out

- drink coffee

- when the rad & matrix is fully clear, engine off, allow 10 pints [ish] to drain from the bottom hose

- clamp the bottom hose, fill with - a gallon of hoat and a gallon of distilled

- burp and top up the expansion bottle

[Liam89]

That’s pretty Much what I was planning on doing don’t suppose you’ve got a link to the HOAT coolant do you?

[QinteQ]

Amazon Comma XHD5L G05 about £25 + TUW DW005 De-Ionised Water about £5 straight to your house ( or anywhere else ) my M8.

[Liam89]

Thanks QinteQ stuffs on its way! Are you of the same opinion as me that if I keep flushing till water is clear that it will be safe to switch from OAT to HOAT?

[QinteQ]

That's what I did, I took my time, let the hose do the work. I then turned the engine off and dropped 2x5 litres of now clean water out of the RAD into a paint bucket and replace that with HOAT and distilled.

 

Engine on matrix open get it hot let it 'burp' [and make sure it does].

 

Most of us on these forums have GV's that are 10+ years old. Most of us for 7+ years have gone Indi / or / DIY and most indi's use learner trainees who use any / all $hite cheap fluids.

 

So I've tried hard to tightly control my WAV-GV remaining (reliability) lifespan.

[Liam89]

You’ve been so much help the last few days mate I really appreciate all your help I really do. One more thing though when you say burp what do you mean? Wit the heater on full you’ll hear it make a burp noise?

[QinteQ]

You’ve been so much help the last few days mate I really appreciate all your help I really do. One more thing though when you say burp what do you mean? Wit the heater on full you’ll hear it make a burp noise?

 

Your welcome we all use the huge repository of specific knowledge on forums - that's how we all learn.

 

Burp like your baby did, -  it just means get the wind [air] out. Luckily we owners of GV's don' t need to use bleed valves, it will do it naturally if you do what I said in #11. When your happy its done and topped up to the line take it for a ride while its hot and 'prove' it does not leak cooling any fluid.

[Liam89]

Morning QinteQ, I’ve now flushed around 30l and it’s still coming out a rusty orange colour which I believe is from using kseal in the past. I’ve not added coolant yet because It isn’t clear. Will it ever become actually clear do you think? I don’t want to add the new coolant until I’m certain that it’s got no other coolant in. Should I just keep flushing? I’m using distilled water for all flushes as our water area is very hard and I don’t want limescae build up in the system. Edited September 23, 2018 by Liam89

[bignev]

Hiya pal, 

Just use the tap water for the flushing as it's coming out again.

 

Follow our fellow member QinteQ's list in #7, not "fill run drain fill" steps it'll keep contaminating whatever goes in for absolutely ages.

 

Start off I suppose if you're worried with the bottom hose loose, with water coming out, and put a garden hose in the expansion bottle and keep it flowing through. If it gets fairly clear then run the engine briefly to circulate, then repeat.

 

Then try to follow QinteQ's list. It will work loads better.

[Liam89]

The problem I have is no easy way of using a hose and my neighbour complains about the fumes which I understand but I need to just get this done now. Should I have the bottom pipe loose so water is just leaking out around it or just have the drain on the radiator open at the bottom?

[bignev]

Yep that's a problem then pal.

 

Either, or both, of the means of escape for the water, to get as much of any sediment out of the system.

 

I suppose you could get a bucket and keep refilling with a jug but not nearly as quickly effective.

[Liam89]

I’m thinking I might just have to use a watering can and be quick lol

[QinteQ]

HOAT + distilled water I said was for the last FINAL fill AFTER the tap-water is clean, the matrix is open, heat to full belt, header tank cap off - to 'burp' any air out of your now clean 'beat practice' cooling service, check all hoses etc for leaks and take it for a local (ISH) run WITH a spare "just in case" gallon of get-me-home water.

 

Now I did not know you had used 'snake oil-voodoo' crap additives and that worries me. Just do as young nev says and see where it goes for you M8.

[Liam89]

I got it running clean by that method this afternoon, filled with water again took for a short run and it came out dirty again. No where near as bad as previously though. I guess I’ll keep going with it for as long as I can flushing it with water and driving it short journeys then flush again etc till I see a good improvement.

I didn’t but a garage that I used to take the car to did (k seal) and I guess that’s what I’m now seeing coming out of the car.

Oh also I’ve got that webasto heater. Will that flush through even if the light isn’t on? Or does water only flow through it when the light is on?

Hopefully this is nearly done though! Thanks again all of you!

[QinteQ]

Webasto. If the air temp is (1) cold enough and the (2) fuel tank is at least 1/4 full and the (3) heater is on auto hot it will come on regardless of your control. The water will flush through the webasto regardless of the 'burner bowl' ignition.