bignev

Solved this problem on my 2005 GV. 
After a massive exchange and cleanup of sensors, filters, fuel filter housing etc. the remaining cause had to be the fuel pump itself.
Handed it over to a mechanic who confirmed that two out of three return valves were stuck. This led to a drop in fuel pressure or lack of fuel to the injectors as only 1/3 of the diesel could pass.
Replaced the small steel balls of the right size and problem fixed. These balls came in a small bag and was easily fitted. These balls get worn out over the years. I see a lot of frustrated GV owners out there, like myself. 
Great car except for all that needs fixing all the time
 
A lot of interesting ideas in this forum, but don't get carried away.  Engine cutting out at acceleration must be fuel starvation. Take it from there. Check the moving parts first....they always wear out first...

Mine is also odd.
Whenever I open the door to get in it says:
'You will regret buying this car. Wait until you see how soon the battery will go flat''
Then when getting out it says:
"Phew, we made it. THIS time!".

Well, discovered another little foible, the door mirrors won't fold in unless the engine is running . There's probably some other oddities as well, but that was the last thing of note. Of course having to start the engine again on a busy Ferry with a tradition belch of smoke, wasn't what everyone else wanted .
Now the good news, it's made it to the Pyrenees (again), but I did treat her very gently on the Motorways .
 

Fairly sure the radio isn't the main failure as it stopped working about 4 years ago, the same time as the GPS, and long before my recent woes started.
To conclude the weird instrument cycling I can live with, the lack of central locking is inconvenient but liveable, and the uncertainty whether it all might suddenly stop has been mitigated by the fact its still running 2 weeks later.
So unless it gets significantly worse I'll keep it running until something else goes wrong 
 

.
Wow, a bit like comparing scars and bullet wounds .
The biggest problem for me is that A, they don't make them any more, and B that there isn't anything similar on the market to replace it.
In this day and age I struggle to understand why if you  have something which was successfully marketed around the world, then why did they (FIAT Chrysler) stop making it ?, seems totally dumb to me.
But hey in the words of many, what do I know .
 
 

Well yep that's a pain in the posterior!
 
I've warned mine a few times too, behave or else.
The AC no longer works, and I am NOT replacing that front to rear pipe run, I did it about 6 years ago with a new Chrysler part, very reasonable at the time, all 4 (2 cool 2 heat) pipes for about £150.
The rear heater coil leaks so its capped off.
It uses (don't know how or where!!) coolant - just regularly top it up.
Folding mirrors cocked up years ago. 
Electric sliding door drivers side cable track has broken a wire, it also had a new one about 5 years ago. No - my electrical soldering isn't any good, I've tried it.
Handbrake is predictably garbage.
Built in DVD player has a mind of its own, but my girls are a bit older now have other devices to keep them entertained, thankfully.
3 water pumps, 2 power steering pumps, 2 ignition coils, radiator, rear calipers stick then get replaced (possibly another on the cards now!), a couple of door lock actuators, 2 complete front suspension struts (springs / dampers / top mounts), at least 2 sets of front suspension drop links, anti roll bar bushes, front wheel bearings, and I'm sure lots of others I'm blanking from memory!
All minor, but still slightly annoying, given how much effort and parts I put into it when we bought it 8 years ago to make it pretty mint.
Like you, though, we think it is still a great car when it's behaving for family !

Well many thanks chaps, however.......
It's not the IOD fuse cos I took that out many moons ago.
It's not rebooting the system cos that happens every morning when I reconnect the Battery.
It's not Fuses Nos 5 and 20, cos they're now both out, and its not better.
It's not (as someone else said to me) a dicky battery, as I changed that, and it's exactly the same.
What I have discovered is :- that to lock it (noting the key fob now doesn't do anything) you have to sit in it with all doors closed and Ignition on. Then Lock it by pushing the switch on the door panel down, and it all locks. Turn ignition off, use the inside door handle to unlock the drivers door, and then get out. then lock the drivers door manually outside, and it's all then locked. A right pain......
Anyway, all the time it's running it's useable, even though this latest scene of events is somewhat annoying. I did read the riot act to it a couple of years ago after when I replaced the Thermostat and Radiator, with the threat that it would be going to meet the great recycler in the sky if it went wrong again, and in fairness it has behaved itself until very recently. 
I'm just optimistic that there's something silly that has failed, and that I can easily/cheaply sort it out, otherwise I can see my patience wearing thin if it continues to mess about. 
 

Well, I found a £115 Alternator on fleabay, fitted it, and it works fine. Which is what I hoped for other than some silly wiring/electrical fault.
So, the old girl soldiers on .

Cheers Nev,
I'm fairly sure that a new Alternator will fix it, but it's just the buy an Alternator, buy a wiring loom, buy a fuse/relay box, buy something else, etc, etc, pathway, that I don't want to go down.
I put a few feelers out to folk who know more than me, but I can see an Alternator on order by the end of the weekend .
 
 

So, as usual the manual for the 'Export Model' is BS. Hardly surprising considering my (limited) experience working on the old girl, I usually ship it off to my friendly garage as I have neither the enthusiasm, motivation or tool set to deal with her.  
I guess I'm lucky having a local garage that I trust, they are honest even to the point of telling me to get rid of the bus and buy something more reliable, but I'm 6'5" and it's the only car I've driven that doesn't require double jointed knees. It's also great to just drop the seats when I need a van rather than the hernia inducing removal of other vehicles.......

Reading this about the amp in the back i'd thought I better take a look. found a power lead about 8 foot long going to some sort of USB plug that was rusty and bloated, scotch blocked to the amp power lead, so that could be a lot of the drain (no fuse to be found anywhere). Next the towing socket....all scotch blocked again so this might be another source of the drain. Had enough for today so I ordered Tow bar bypass relay for Cambus vehicles. I'll see if I can do another test in the morning. ( I've also ordered the  Car Battery Switch Isolator Terminal Quick Cut-off) Belt and Bracers
 

Hi there!
Yes - are you any good at car maintenance?
Read the vehicle assistance section of the forum to get an idea of the little foibles it will quite likely present you!
Cheers! Nev

And rather unfortunately any advice is a little late, as this thread is over 7 years old........
 
From my experiences on the Subaru Outback forum, I believe in the USA you can run "carfax" checks which seem to quite often have service histories if the workshops have uploaded them. As you say @maxcaddy that doesn't exist in the UK!

Thank you for al your help I have hopefully now fixed the transmission relay problem code p0888 fingers crossed 

I'm not at home so can't get under the bonnet to check mine, but have you read the lid of the relay and fuse box? Next tk the battery?
But it might not be that, could be the Powertrain Control Module not doing its bit. Try a general tinterweb search, I just turned up a bit of info on an American site.
The unit on the gearbox is the solenoid pack, which is a different animal.

Cheers , clearly a design feature then .
Got to be honest I was worried until I found out what it was, and then cos the EGR has never been off or been cleaned in 15 years, it wasn't a surprise if it were gunged up.
As this could be its last year, I'll leave it alone to next year depending on how regularly it comes on.
You're totally right re the EWL going out, as irrespective of who says what, on some cars it will only go out only when reset, whereas on others it can clear itself on start up .

Join the club... 
I get this error quite frequently and the warning light comes on.. quite worrying the first couple of  times as you assume something is seriously wrong.. but it isn't.
The thing with mine is that at some stage the EWL switches itself off - which is a no no as far as my mechanic friends think. Anyway it does and then it decides to come back on. I have looked for some answer ro this on the web and the only comment I came across with reference to the EGR and Voyager was that there was apparently a software fix to lengthen the count down time before this triggers but that is long gone and no one has the facilities to rectify this in the UK (as far as I am aware).
Why mine resets without clearing the code I don't know, now I just accept the EWL as part of the interior illuminations.. one day this will bite me in the butt but 'till then just keep trucking!

The 'track rod ends' ordered from Jeepchryslerparts midday Friday arrived the next day (saturday), that's phenomenal delivery performance and well worth praising. Anyway fitted them fairly easily, and put it in for a retest this afternoon. Lo and behold I now have a 12 month MoT on her, so she lives for another year .
4 tyres are going on Saturday, and then a re-tracking, and that should be good enough for another 12 mts/10,000 miles. 
For those old/interested enough to remember Faulty Towers, I have similar relationship with my GV to what Basil had with his 1100 whereby it's been threatened and clearly knows that if it seriously misbehaves, it'll be send to the big scrapyard in the sky .

Well not surprisingly it failed, but only on the N/S track rod end. I wouldn't mind but I changed them about 3 years/25,000 miles ago, and at the time didn't buy cheap and nasty eBay items, more like average cost ones . Anyway fail one did, so a pair from Jeepchryslerparts are on order. There were a few advisories especially with the tyres, but hey for 130,000 miles and 15 years, it could have been far worse 
Enthused with the potential success, I'll put 4 tyres on it, retest, and maybe get another year of life out of the old girl .
 

Taking the opportunity to get a few things done whilst I took a few days off work (yes I am officially retired but...) I bought a replacement fuel filter assembly (old one split diaphragm - running on BMW in line filter), fuel pressure sensor (hence the need to replace fuel filter assembly for easy bleed), fuel regulator solenoid and crankshaft sensor (has always been difficult to start when warm), camshaft sensor already replaced)
Fuel filter assembly - pipe broke during replacement... currently having new one fabricated.
Fuel pressure sensor - replaced no problem.
Crankshaft sensor - ho hum... 
I can find no reference to the 2.8 CRD details in any of the manuals; (I have the following downloaded] - 2005-RG-Diesel-SM,RG-Body,RG-Chassis,RG-Diesel-Powertrain,RG-SM,RG-Transmission).
Searched on google only found reference to uTube - spent around an hour searching by browsing many different videos, the UTub search is useless - how can Chrysler Voyager 2.8 CRD Crankshaft sensor find Seebring camshafts, et al...... anyway found what appears to be a Russian (Eastern European anyway) one that lead me completely astray in assuming just fourish bolts and away you go. 
Yes you have to drop the crossmember (those above bolts), which then reveals the ABS unit and steering gear which are both apparently in the way (I'm relaying my friendly mechanic's telephone report, which was interspersed with sobs and whimpers, plus comments on cut fingers and bruised thumb nails - oh even the easy bits, those bolts again, was not that easy as the two main bolts were both seized and required the subtle application of very large hammers and an oxy-acetylene torch).
So, after a short (30 minute) telephone conversation, the crankshaft sensor replacement has been abandoned, apparently the ABS pump would need disconnecting which means bleeding the brakes etc. and a half day job has swallowed most of his week.
Oh and the new Bosch fuel regulator when fitted and alternator, belts etc. refitted, leaked diesel through the electrical plug  so the old one had to be refitted.  Joy oh Joy.
So no CV until next week, a weekend of wondering how much lighter my bank account will be and thinking I should have left well alone (Eaststart is only a couple of pounds a can after all!).
Now to the point of this ramble, does anyone have details and hopefully images of the procedures normally used to replace the C/shaft sensor on aMK4 2007 (2006 type) 2.8CRD ??????
I think I'll buy a new bicycle instead.
 
 

Another fine day today, and another problem solved .
The offside light unit which not been working ended up being solely because the connector at the back of it wasn't pushed fully home . I've had the light out before, last time about 3 years ago when replacing the Radiator, but amazingly the light has worked since then until now. Anyway a splash of electrical contact cleaner, and it's all back in place and working fine.
Next step is to renew the MoT which actually isn't due until March, but as the old girl needs a set of boots, I need to know that there's nothing else of serious note going to go wrong before investing in a new set.
Who knows, perhaps it'll end up living for another year  
 

Okay half the problem fixed .
The standard Aux drive belt is a 6PK1420. If you bypass the Aircon Compressor and the idler pulley above it, a 6PK1290 belt works but there is only 6mm clearance between the run of the belts, and at tickover they just kiss together. Using a 6PK1275 belt gives 22mm clearance between the runs, and other than being tight to squeeze on works fine. So instead of having to buy another compressor just to be 'in circuit' for £40 I have a working solution, which if I had been more luckier/accurate would have only been £20.
If I had to do it again or if someone else has the problem, then I would suggest using a 6PK1280 belt which will give adequate clearance. and be a shade easier to fit.
The hardest part of the job is taking off (& putting on) the 'elasticated' power steering belt which when working in the drive, in January, wasn't the easiest of tasks, but competed satisfactorily all the same .
Now to look at why the lights pack up...............
 
 
 

Well after thinking that I had seized/stuffed Alternator bearings, the weather cleared today and I had a delve under the bonnet to discover that the Alternator was in fact fine, but the Aircon pump was seized solid. Haven't yet worked out why its solid as the drive to it is via a magnetic coupling, but seized solid it is.
So, it looked like the easy fix was to bypass the pump and the idler wheel, and use a shorter drive belt running just the crank, tensioner, and Alternator. Shorter belt now ordered, and hopefully ready for collection tomorrow, fingers crossed.
At the same time as the belt issue above happened, the offside Headlight unit also completely stopped working. A quick look in the fuse box next to the battery didn't seem to have any fuses or relays for the lights ?, so there must be a secondary fuse box hidden somewhere ? (answers gratefully received).
Hopefully the old girl isn't dead yet, but certainly under very critical assessment.
 
 

Hi Richard!
No, there's never been any problems with the LED's for side lights, or the cheap aftermarket HID Xenons I swapped in for the headlight low beams.
 
The light switch on the earlier models 2001 up to 2005 were indeed backlit illuminated, I had 2 of them, but not our later ones. It annoyed me enough in the early months of ownership of this one that I sourced the older version with the fittings and bulbs and figured out which wire it needed to link across to light it up.
The previous model also had 2 lights on each of the vanity mirrors in the sun visor, that were dimmable. I changed them too.

I believe the horn lives behind the n/s headlamp assembly and you are right it is a separate unit (VSS). For the time being the alarm is behaving itself and it's too friggin cold to start investigating at present. As for auto electricians they believe Grand Voyagers are the Devil's work and would prefer to stick their hands in pre heated frying pan and I can understand why.
(Page 1257 of the RG-Body.pdf manual shows the location of the alarm horn)