andyb2000

Well.the omens are good.
 
Started first turn of the key last evening when I collected her from the garage and, even more significantly, first turn this morning even though it is cold outside (well, as cold as it gets here!).
 
I took her straight to "Cut Out" roundabout and no problems whatsoever and she seemed to running more smoothly and evenly but, of course, we have to allow here for auto-sugguestion on my part!
 
So, cautious optimism, I'll take her for another run later on and I'll keep you all informed.

To add on Andy's inspection, mine when was faulty, the "magnetic" bit of the sensor was covered in black staff and slightly damaged.
Try removing them and clean the surface with an alcoholic product.

Cheers both you guys i will check behind both wheels for any loose connections like i said if it does not seem to have any problems i will take it to a local garage to get it diagnosed thank you guys for all the help

So garage have fitted 4 new injectors, and it so far so good. They have tested it and cannot replicate the cutting out. I have only driven it short distance, but it starts well (when previously it didn't) and it hasn't cut out, when previously it might have.
 
If anything changes I will get back on here, but for anyone else who is experiencing poor starting and cutting out here is the order of events for me:
 
Fuel Filter Pressure relief valve Fuel filter housing and wiring loom Pressure sensor on fuel rail Injector testing New injectors  
My car has been renamed Triggers Broom!

Spot on Mike, handy that, good reference for a lot of faults and info. Just one downside, no P1 fault codes in there, but that's only a minor thing. I've already looked up sensors, testing and their guide ohm or voltage values, which is invaluable for testing sensors.
 
I found the getuid files missing, so grabbed them elsewhere and I've attached here just in case anyone else has problems.
 
getuid.zip

Hi, I am using a program (some probably know it) and for those that don't know it I would like to share it with you.
 
All the files needed for the installation are in the folder attached to the below link.
On youtube you will find videos on how to install. Enjoy.
 
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rbw862uakm1dhkl/AAAmsqoVtS7o7dFb8BH9xVWXa?dl=0
 
I am newish to dropbox sharing so if it doesn't work let me know and I'll fix it.
Attached is a snapshot with a list of what it should be in the folder.
 
@@andyb2000 remember I told you about more software, try this one.

Hi there, welcome to the club fantastic cars when they're not acting up!
My previous gv had the same problem with the door locks, quick 'fix' pop the bonnet, go to the fuse box and take the Iod fuse out for a few seconds. Back in and they'll start working.
I think it's caused by a sticky lock actuator, so if you feel like it, take door cards off and clean them up, lube them up and it might sort it.
(mine was because the rear doors had their popup locks removed as it was used as a taxi, and I suspect this was causing jamming problems)

Hi there, welcome to the club fantastic cars when they're not acting up!
My previous gv had the same problem with the door locks, quick 'fix' pop the bonnet, go to the fuse box and take the Iod fuse out for a few seconds. Back in and they'll start working.
I think it's caused by a sticky lock actuator, so if you feel like it, take door cards off and clean them up, lube them up and it might sort it.
(mine was because the rear doors had their popup locks removed as it was used as a taxi, and I suspect this was causing jamming problems)

Mine too!
 
(yes, I know,  mines petrol!!)
 
Marked up for the fuel pump.

Ditto Andy.

Well, my filter and housing arrived today, so I'll get it fitted.
 
I've used the car a further 5 times now and it hasn't cut out once!

Hi, yesterday the rear left brake pipe snapped ( luckily I was bleeding the brakes and not on the motorway)
So I thought I search online for a replacement.
For those that didn't know I wanted to share this:
eurocarparts is selling it with 71.99 and carparts4less with 48.03.
The point is that carparts4less belongs to Eurocarparts.
 
Hope it helps and always keep an I on low prices.

When I had a cutting out issue on my 2.5, all I did was remove and refit the filter bowl and that cured it.  
 
Removing and refitting the front filter on my 2.8 also stopped the same symptom cutting out problem. That was finger tight when I went to take it off, the guy had serviced it before I picked it up. 
 
So I'd say it's quite possibly been the cause all along. 
 
 
 
 

Just a thought guys. I am thinking that because you both have to go through the start "sequence" rather than just tuning the key back to "run" it would suggest to me that there is air in the system and it needs to purge it out by running the LP pump. The LP pump sounds as though it is working so I would definitely look at replacing the filter housing as I have also heard that these can suffer with minute cracks thereby letting in air.
Hoping that you both get to the bottom of this fault.
 
Keith

Thanks Mike/Nev,
I thought about auto-shutdown, but it's a more precise point of cutting out than a potential random electrical drop, plus the LED/signal test I've now done with the fuel solenoid I believe eliminates anything about the ECU shutting the engine down as it doesn't try to kill the fuel supply/solenoid (Which would be an obvious first shutdown kill-switch to pull).
 
One thing, on the .com forum somebody mentioned the solenoid is more a valve than on/off, so a binary LED test may not be 100% accurate, although it did stay constantly on, so it was good enough for my test.
 
Nev, not sure on the fuel line block, not sure how to check that easily either, other than somehow cutting a bit of line and putting clear pipe to 'watch' for bubbles or collapse of the pipe. High pressure fuel pump under-delivering is a real possibility. The HP pump is directly driven from the timing belt, unsure if it's 'timed' as such on these engines and if that has an impact, but my understanding is the HP pump gives out a constant 'high' pressure fed to the line, the injectors take their pressure/required squirt and anything over is returned via the over-pressure/return lines, so in theory if the pump isn't giving out enough pressure it would affect all engine speeds, not just higher.
True enough on not being able to re-pressure the system, Steve and my own experiences show the low-pressure/electric lift pump seems to HAVE to run to re-prime the system which fits with your experience on the Galaxy.
 
I'm wondering if a punt of a second hand injector and then doing injector swapping might highlight one or more faulty ones causing it. Long shot, but again so far I've spent very little cost on this so a £50 ebay injector might be worth a go, providing they're not wedged in too tightly.
 
Steve, mine also developed this, have had it almost 3yrs now and other than occasional tough starting in the cold (even after glo plugs changed) it's never failed in this way, so yes I'd agree it's developed and got worse over time, so wear and tear probably.
Also Steve, good luck on the fuel filter replacement, it seems a lot of people after doing that resolve this problem, so I think there are a few different scenarios that cause this issue, so there may not be one right answer unfortunately. I'm tempted to change the filter on mine, it looked fine to me and was replaced last year but for the sake of another 20 mins and £30 it might be worth doing just incase something silly like a load of gunk in there has jammed it that I can't see and is choking it (Kinda contrary to my thoughts earlier on the HP pump, but at the moment I'm trying just about anything in reason!)
 
As always will keep posting back :-) Good luck Steve, thanks for posting back it's appreciated having another set of eyes on the problem. Pity you're all the way in sunny France otherwise would happily swap notes over a cuppa!

Hi Steve,
 
Interesting, thanks for the feedback, I'm also thinking it's not injectors as i'd expect more return flow from one or more, and in theory I'd hear 'missing' where one or more were not firing correctly (due to over or under fuelling), which isn't the case, this is a complete cut out.
Interesting the immobiliser, does yours have the red indicator on top of the steering column? If so, does that light during the problem, mine doesn't which is why I'm also eliminating the immobiliser in my case (If the car gets immobilised I'd expect cut out and all dash lights to go out, mine remains lit with what you'd expect if you stalled the car, oil pressure light, etc). The fact that you need to lock then unlock the car though is a decent thinking that it's related to the BCM/Immobiliser on yours, or the chip in the key perhaps. Have you a spare set of keys, if so I'd give those a go to see if any difference?
 
So today I've checked the fuel filter/lift pump. To clear up the confusion, mine is a 2.8CRD 2004/2005 which has an electric lift pump at the rear beside the tank, the filter is inside the plastic pump housing. I've attached photos to be clear! (There are so many variations)
Checked the plastic housing, O-ring, filter and what I could see of the fuel lines and all look good to me, no cracks in the filter housing, filter itself in decent condition, etc.
So now onto my next thought, crank position sensor. I've ordered a replacement VM Motori replacement crank sensor so will swap that and see what I find next!
 
Good luck Steven, hope you get yours tracked down.
 
This is the filter and electric lift pump housing, which is on the driver side (RHD) of the fuel tank just in front of the rear axle:

 
Filter and plastic base housing has been unscrewed/removed:
 

 
Looking straight up into the pump housing:
 

 
Fuel lines running towards front of vehicle. Is it just me or do these look new-ish condition? I think they do and the tank looks relatively new too, so could these have been replaced before I purchased a couple of years ago perhaps?
 

 
So onto the crank sensor. If it's not crank sensor then perhaps fuel solenoid or high pressure pump itself.
 

It's exactly like mine:
 
-The tool with red handle is for the tensioner pully( be careful as on mine the pins snapped, I fitted some screws in the holes)
- the tool like a nidle is for the shaft balancer( only need it if the engine has been dismantled)
- from bottom left first one is for the exauhst cam shaft( the one towards the car, the hole is near the thermostat)
- second one left is for the intake camshaft( the hole is behind the alternator)
Third one left is for the crankshaft( the hole is behind the starter thus needing to be removed)
 
The other ones are for other engines like jeep Cherokee or different models of grand voyagers.
 
If I may suggest:
I shared an YouTube link with a Russian guy doing a cam belt replacement which is very useful (is somewhere in my posts)
After making sure everything is locked, I undone the camshafts bolts, doing that it makes it very easy to put the new one up, but when tightened them back on pit something between the pullies to block them for twisting( for the exauhst cam
above and for the intake cam below, I used a small ratchet extension) also remember to get the wipers cover and motor casing out to have more room to put the exauhst blocking pin.
 
And while you're there do the water pump too.
Any more questions, please ask if I don't know I'm sure someone in here will give you an answer.
 
Hope it helps.

This the one is like the one I have
Just can't send you the link as is through ebay and it won't let me while logged in.
On mine the key dance was showing only...I don't remember the code...but related to the key itself, when connected the Delphi showed two more, fuel related....when I eventually got it running.
Also it can stream live data for abs and injector banks
Plus you need autodata, is a lot of information there that helps with cars.
When I get home I'll send you some links...if I can, my copy is through an account on filelist.

...it does sound like fuel starvation,
What about the quality of fuel. I once went to France with cooking oil, all fine until next day(-2 or -4 it was) when it did not want to start until I drained two batteries and towed it about 400 metres. But once started it was like running in three pistons and a bit smokey.
I do apologize if I go randomly but hoping at least will take you near the fault...

Hi there,
 
See the other thread going on about aftermarket radios as I've put a load of information on there and I'm currently in the process of adding an Android aftermarket to mine, so afterwards I'll have the full HOWTO (Including modifying the front facia to make a double-din fit!)
 
Reading that ebay advert, I'd be dubious as I don't really think they know what they're talking about when it comes to Chrysler Grand Voyager compatibility as the whole advert is generic and includes the line:
Radio Removal keys to allow you to remove your factory radio with ease Which the GV's don't need removal keys, the radio is screwed in with 4 screws that are hidden by the large facia/bezel (You can see the screws in that photo you posted), so speak to them to be sure!
 
Generally, even though yours is a 'standard' radio it'll still be probably talking to a factory amp, 8 speakers around the car, etc, as they're not quite as simple as first thought. Steering controls are all CANBUS so that's another headache that is tricky to make work on an aftermarket.

Hi Karmannski,
That's tricky as we've not got a lot to go on!
 
But, by the sounds of it now it's cutting out the suspicion is the pressure relief valve failure that's quite a common one doing the rounds at the moment!
Take a look at 
by our old pal Daz and see if you can do the same test. 
Replacing the valve is tricky as there are a few part numbers circulating so if you go to replace check closely the part you're replacing is an exact match (Some aren't exact thread size as a few people I've spoken to recently found out and kindly passed the info onto me).
 
Also, struggling to start on a morning could also be glow plugs, so time to test and perhaps replace:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vtGGp4Jqp8&t=8s

Hi m8,
 
It was me! And I'm actually right in the middle of doing exactly that. I've got a double-din Android head unit to install and so I'm mapping out all the wiring, amp system, how it works, etc.
 
Good and bad news, the bad news is that if you want to replace the factory RB3 unit you're in for a lot of work as you'll have to replace the AMP too. The AMP (rear right hand side behind the speaker) powers on and controls its balance and fader using CANBUS, so tapping into that is a no-go (There are commercial boxes but at a few hundred quid I'd not be convinced without them letting me return it! And I'd rather not pay that kind of money).
 
The good news is if you just want to 'push' audio in (Like the Parrot bluetooth systems, etc) then you can from the head unit outputs, as I've discovered all the ISO wiring harnesses are generally WRONG for my specific model, but by testing and careful trial and error I've found the left and right +/- speaker out from the factory head unit, so you'd be able to 'patch' into these to push audio (Factory head unit would have to be on and that would still control volume, fader, balance, etc).
 
 
So my plan to do this:
Remove factory AMP completely.
Add additional wiring from the rear (where the amp was, and where it feeds all 8 speakers) to the front dash so I can wire the speakers direct into my new head unit
 

 
My speakers are infinity (They don't say that on the front, but when I removed the speaker it shows infinity on it)

 
 
Their ohms resistance is only 2, so they'll need a decent head unit to drive them. My head unit I bought is a 4x45watt unit which *should* be enough, but I'm going to have to pair the speakers together (two front left, two front right, two rear left, two rear right) so I'm going to put those in series to make a 4ohm load, which will reduce the output power but should allow for better control and without blowing the head unit. If volume is still too low then I'll have to bite the bullet and buy a replacement amp to install too.
 
Hope that gives you a bit of info, as I progress I'll start to write it onto my website and youtube videos to follow!

Hi, well at last the problem has been corrected.
 
Extensive searching and trial and error had led me down many avenues... and the final solution was found by accident after a heavy downpour when it was discovered that the seal to the bonnet had almost disintegrated and was not sealing the rain water from the engine compartment. This resulted in the discovery of water sitting on top of the fuse box.
 
After further investigation it was discovered that the fuse box had a substantial amount of water inside it and the printed circuit inside the fuse box had started to corrode.
 
I purchased a second hand fuse box of the same model and year and removed the damaged one and replaced it. And low and behold everything worked.
 
I also removed the old bonnet seal and replaced it with a large self adhesive draft excluder made of rubber.
 
Everything seems to be working fine so far.
 
Thank you for your advice and I hope someone can benefit from my discoveries. 

Thanks Andy.....Took me 20mins to find the bloody thing.
 
Nice that the bottom protective tray has a cut out so you can reach the sump...but you still have to take the bloody thing off to find the filter. 
 
Is there a family car out there with a crappier design for the oil filter.  Answers on a postcard please.

Hi,
 
Just to put a 'downer' on the solar chargers, if you do a few calculations using Ohms law.
At 12v and 1.5watts the output of that panel gives you 0.125amps which is 125milliamps.
 
(Assuming 12v output from the panel, I'd expect it to be a little higher but even at 14v it's still 0.14amps)
 
So, residual draw from the ECU and BCM would have to be less than 125milliamps for this solar charger to do anything other than just supply the ECU/BCM, therefore I'd recommend against the solar chargers and go for topping up with a proper battery charger (To be honest, the cheapest of the cheap are just as good. I *hate* that modern chargers are now 'smart' and will decide if they're going to top up your battery or not depending on it's voltage and some simple calculations on current/draw, but that's a separate rant!).
So just get a cheapo mains battery charger from a supermarket or similar and plug it in now and again.
 
That said, I do recommend the buttonmod resistor for the battery, it's not a difficult mod and there are lots of howto's floating around for it so have a read up too :-)