andyb2000

Well everybody finally sorted the oil pressurs out it was a new faulty oil switch put on oil gauge and a new switch  oil is running at 2 bays hot and 5 bar hot so it is all good. So now for led head lights trying some new ones out there called  slimline leds they gave the same pattern as the original but brighter and it goes on.

Hi guys, cheers for that, yeah unfortunately it's going. I've had 2 other people contact me directly, they've had failures very similar, so I'm starting to think the VM Motori 2.8CRD's might have a bit of a flaw in them. That'd explain why others have had a lot more out of theirs with the Petrol or different engines.
 
No more GV's for me for a while, going to a Zafira (I know!) as need low mileage and something cheap to run/fix, not nearly as interesting as my old GV though.
Sorry @@BumBle02 I've not been back to my parents yet where the GV is sat looking miserable on the drive, when I do I'll get you the o-ring sizes for pickup, there were definitely two O-rings on it though, one just visible when installed, the other inside the fitting.

Ok @Admaalzo66
 
 
 
Ok I take that your Fuel Filter been changed recently, if not change it b4 you will do anything else.
 
 
1. Remove the plastic engine cover x3 10mm 
2. Buy or get ~0.5cmx 1,5m or longer hose 
3. At the end of the Common Rail pressure pipe undo the return hose and try to block it with a screw for example. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5FnOU4MiIQ
4. If you on your own you will need long hose - Connect your hose to the return valve ... and put the other end to the bottle (secured place to avoid silage). 
5. Start cranking engine as you do (in the morning pref - on cold) and watch if there is any fuel going out of the return valve - if yes - replace the valve at the end (Bosch only) ~£50 - £60. 
6. If no leak on cranking or running engine, try to rev it to 2.500k (max allowance on P gear) and watch if the valve is letting any fuel or not if yes replace if not go to no.7
7. Remove inlet pressure sensor (Bosch part) 4 pin plug x1 hex nut bolt  - its in the inlet not far from the common rail (ref. to the picture attached) 
8. Use brake cleaner to clean in from any deposit - refit and test the cold start on car after few hrs. 
9. If not any better, buy new sensor (Bosch I paid ~ £25) 
 
 
Also good tip to improve cold start is to buy set of new glow plugs, they are cheep as chips these days £10 each all you nee id long 10mm socket to replace them. 
You need to remove alternator to get to the 1st glow plug. 
 
 
Hope this will help. 
 
Good Luck
 

That was my thought too- bad sump pump.
 
Check the Oil pressure with a tester b4. I can check on mine just to compare if you like.
Just let me know where is the low oil pressure sensor.
 
Karmannski

Alloy corrodes so these rads don't silt up but the alloy particulates form a solid clump blocking the RAD and often the STAT, the STAT however is designed to always stick in the 'open' position.
 
The solid matter in mine was probably the use of non-HOAT and not using distilled water, so no recommend inhibitors.
 
I did mine old school .. .. ..
 
- car running, heater full belt on manual not e-setting
- switch engine off
- remove cap from expansion bottle, insert garden hose
- slack off bottom hose a little
- switch engine on, heater full belt on manual not e-setting
- regulate the clean water in speed [expansion bottle] to the [bottom hose] dirty water out
- drink coffee
- when the rad & matrix is fully clear, engine off, allow 10 pints [ish] to drain from the bottom hose
- clamp the bottom hose, fill with - a gallon of hoat and a gallon of distilled
- burp and top up the expansion bottle

Some diesel models have a lift pump, it's not in-tank but it's beside it. The models/versions all vary quite a bit so it's difficult to identify precisely.
 
Simplest method, go look underneath! If you go just beside driver-side rear door, look underneath towards fuel tank you should identify the fuel filter+lift pump assembly if it has one. It's also in my video for replacing the fuel filter as mine has the rear lift pump:
 

Thanks both of you. jeepchyrslerparts confirmed what I thought, it's the replacement self-levelling (They can't supply) I've been quoted over 700 for them, apparently they are patented so Mopar distro only available. Urgh!
I've also wondered about a press for the garage, and it's mainly been the wife holding me back since my garage subtly keeps getting more and more repair gear in it over time ;-) I might sneak one in eventually if I spot a bargain, but for now other costs are piling up and it's headed towards Xmas at a rather alarming rate.
 
I'm gonna go for the pair of KYB as they're pretty close, managed to get the pair for £100 so going to stick them on and see how it behaves, at least it's not the earth if they fall apart prematurely, but will keep an eye on them and will report back after fitting and initial tests to see how it goes as an alternative.
 
(BTW as an aside, read up on self levelling shock absorbers, rather clever little devices when you stop and think how they work)

Hey up guys yes you're both correct, Sachs self levelling - Nivomat - and replacements are available but bloody expensive.
Those are a load bigger diameter body than usual hey Andy!!
 
I got a set of 4 bushes from Jeep Chrysler parts last year for £40, plus I invested in new tool for the garage - a 12 ton press for £90 off ebay hee hee - the Mrs took the piss something rotten - again. Probably a 6 ton would have been fine, but hardly any price difference so lets go large!!!
 
Or there are some KYB options on Rockauto at £163 each, 2 mopar ones left at £154 each. Plus carriage and import duty of course.
 
Better than last year when I could only find them about £200 each - making the press plus bushes a bargain investment.
 
It's not that bad a job with a press - press out the centre piece, use a junior hacksaw so I could get the blade in the middle, cut the rubber out, cut 2 slots in the outer metal of (whats left in my case) the bush, belt that bit out, clean it up and press the new ones in. Doddle.....
 
So then as you say the shocks look like they are not long for this world, if the KYB you have are the same overall length, and only a tiny bit shorter on the shaft for suspension travel, so hopefully shouldn't bottom out before the bump stop, and they were cheap enough, it would in my world be worth a "suck it and see" experiment.
 
And you could then have a look at those originals at your leisure!!

Hi Andy go to jeep-chryslerparts.co.uk phone 02082005500  give him your vin number and he will find the right ones for you they are good for our parts left a passage on your  youtube radiator  fitting for you by the way I think they are called Nivomat Shockers Jeff 

Can't say for sure as never changed the same, but I'd say just change it. The system should re-test/reset itself after replacement.
 
That said, I'd remove battery connection whilst changing to avoid any spurious signals/jolts over the CANBUS to be safe.

Hi m8,
Sorry for the delay in replying, not 100% on the 2007 as that's the newer design than mine, but mine are defo 2ohm so make sure you're driving them with a decent head unit or amp to avoid stressing the head units drivers.
 
Actually, I never checked the smaller top speakers, they're all driven independently from the factory amp so I'd make the assumption they're the same so they can be balanced.

Hi,
Just to add to Nev's post as some good info in there, yes assuming Diesel it's listed at 20k km, HOWEVER I'd really recommend yearly. The junk the filters have to deal with I've found that each year I do mine they get a waxy like build up on them which I'm assuming is the biodiesel mix going into most fuels now, and using logic if its covered in waxy deposits then it won't be letting the fuel flow through it as easily.
 
Doing it properly is straight forward though, for the rear filter by the tank, just follow the simple steps, I've done a video on changing that filter so just search for it and you just need to make sure the housing isn't damaged, etc.
 
For the one in the engine bay, I believe it's a fairly similar procedure.
 
Luckily on these beasts the re-prime isn't too difficult and doesn't need a garage to re-prime the system and get it flowing again (A lot of diesels if their fuel line goes dry/bubbles then they struggle to start again as @@bignev mentions, but in our case that's not the problem).
 
So check which one you have and order it accordingly.

On the Kia 3 were fairly easy - ish to get out, 2 of them did require an injector removal kit (usual auction / buy it now site - £45) with a slide hammer though, but 3 out in one evening. They are Delphi, with an M14 thread on the top of them so a doddle to get the adaptor on.
 
The 4th one however, the one with the ton of leak off naturally, took many attempts to eventually get it out, and going back downwards a little (which I really did not want to do given how much effort it took to get it up the first 25mm) and soaking it with WD40 hoping some would get down the sides.
 
And i managed to strip the thread on the adaptor of the kit! I'm stronger than I thought   but they sent a replacement bit PDQ so Friday evening I got at it, up, down a bit, got frustrated and angry gave it everything I had and it started to finally come up a bit more. So after a breather more welly and out it came, at last.
 
One of my neighbours is a mechanic (not too generous with his time though - disappointing after I've fixed his boiler a couple of times) and lent me a little wire brush device to clean up the bore for the injector body. It has a rod with a brass ferule on the end that fits in the nozzle hole to stop crud ending in the bores.
 
So far so good, it keeps starting up really easily at the minute, but I'm never too sure I'm out of the woods till a while later!
Doesn't spew black smoke like a Klingon cloaking device now either  

Great news Nev, How were the injectors to do then, not too bad or took a while on them? I keep putting it off as don't get much on leak-off but wonder if it would help on mine.
 
Yeah, there are a few things that cause this and stubborn is the way to go! Keep at it and you'll get it sussed.

I should have proof read mine a bit more, laughed at it just now, "not a typo" then the words and figures are different ?
But it was 120 ml.
Got 3 out, 2 with the slide hammer 1 easy peasy. Away for weekend so will keep you guys in the laughing loop next week.

Hi there,
Yep blue wire to force the amplifier ON will work, BUT you'll find what I did when doing a lot of investigations, you won't have front/rear control from your new head unit, the factory amp does some weirdy tricks to do that.
 
If you want a bit of reading I've written a load of info on my adventures on my blog about it: http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2017/12/chrysler-audio-system-amplifier-and.html (and you've already seen my youtube stuff BumBle02).
 
I've had two CGV's now (And looked at several other peoples!) and almost each one has had a slightly different audio wiring and setup, so my general thinking is, try the cheap/easy option of a cable/converter cable first (This worked on my first GV, which for some reason I think had MUCH better audio than my second, even though I suspect my first didn't have infinity!). Then from there work downwards doing more testing and figuring it out.
 
The long and the short of it, is if you stick with factory amp then you can get audio through it by doing some tweaks, but results may vary. Only true way of solving is the route I took which is to remove the factory amp and drive the speakers direct from the head unit.
(BTW: Infinity stamped on the speakers isn't always a sign of a factory amp, mine has factory amp and no Infinity on the outside, only when you take them apart you see the Infinity label)

Yep, As QinteQ says, manifold pressure sensor combined with TC temperature sensor, both of these are critical for engine management control.
I'm unsure which of the two could have had the biggest impact, but based on the state of my sensor, neither could have been operating correctly.
It's a quick check, hex/allen key and pop it off, take a look, if it's crusted up then you might be able to clean it with brake cleaner,
see if it makes any difference.

Hi there,
Yep, it's the dimmer control, should be a slider beside the light control switch beside the door. Try turning it up to full brightness and they should come back on as they've just gone very dim.
If not then the variable control may be damaged and forcing it all to low brightness.

Yes Andy on youtube do's a good one on fitting then.

It was the dimmer control thanks a lot Andy.

Zero start or no attempt to engage bendix ? No electrical activity at all is usually trigger wire.
 
 http://my.prostreetonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/starter_solenoid1.jpg

Replacing the fuel filter housing worked for me. It was cracked and the o ring inside was distorted. Previously, my mechanic had gone down the injector route with no success. Had 000"s of miles of happy motoring after the replacement earlier this year, not a single reoccurrence of the problem.

If you rev the engine does the noise go an come back when you De accelerate if so i can 100% guarantee that it is the decoupledr pulley on the alternator. You can buy these on line.. I changed the tensioner first DIDNT NEED IT THOUGH... that seemed to work but not for long a week maybe....DECOUPLER PULLEY also called a clutch pulleyhttps://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263281585361

i had same problem with my 2.5crd and 2.8crd 
the 2.5 i replaced all filters (not housings)had tank removed and cleaned no luck sold car in the end 
my 2.8 had exact same issues 
changed all filters fuel filter housing(ie heater/manual fuel pump) still same issue 
sent to diesel specialist diagnosed fuel rail pressure release valve 
cost few hundred quid to diagnose and get sorted but 2 years in now and im still going strong 
my advice is send it to a specialist who knows what they are looking for 
my experiences with 2 voyagers the fuel systems seems to be very temperamental
there are post on this forum about these problems already as well as a big write up on the web somewhere that i read
ps when you get it sorted only use premium diesel cheep diesel seems to worsen your problems   

ps listen to gordy and andy 
they a geniuses very very knowledgeable and helped me more than enough times with there advice 
thumbs up fellas