QinteQ

Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace. Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Best of luck. Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week. The  higher  the  voltage  applied,  the  faster the battery will charge, charging at too  high a voltage WILL  damage  your  battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid  battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% : - @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%] - two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement  of  about  300% The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged. - 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator- 14.00 volts  is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator- 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing- 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time NOTE01 : I wouldn't buy one, or use one, but in the interests of even handed-ness a spiral will do the job - make sure you get the right 'posts' for your type !NOTE02 : This vendor is cheaper, considerably cheaper for the spiral.NOTE03 : There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and I have never been unable to start the car since. IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - NOTE - My Bold.
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. Excessive IOD can be caused by:

• Electrical items left on.
• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
• An internally shorted generator.
• Intermittent shorts in the wiring 

Under drivers seat M8

If it's a diesel check the temp gauge gets up to the half way mark, if not then it's not getting up to full temp, costing you fuel, and you need the inline thermostat mod, and at this time of year the grille blanking mod, both readily found in posts on here

This is the uni Lucas fitted to my 05 nev
 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diesel-Primer-Pump-Lucas-Type-/192779554591
 

Oh ok nev. Yeh I did get crossed wires. Additionally i understood your pump will be 12v rear, not non electric front even if you're no longer running LPG. Still we got there in the end. Take care now!

I'm going to resist touching it, it's not much over 18 months old my  primer! And while it starts almost instantly I'm not fixing what ain't broke  lazy sod 

Sorry for delay in update, busy with wife's illness. Car tech checked out car on Wednesday afternoon and just had to be the main ECU. He has sent it away to be repaired by a close mate whom he trusts. I will update when it is refitted. 

HI. On reflection it has only been the temp. gauge that has moved up and down. Apologies for a misleading statement, heads a bit messed up, so to clarify, it turns over really good and all gauges are ok except the temp. gauge that slowly moves up about a 5 millimetres and then settles back when key is first turned. I find it strange that it was ok earlier in the day and later it just would not fire, and still does not fire. Modern cars and their stupid computers, ugh. Just tried it this morning and still no joy not that i expected any. Back to nursing, I hope I will find more time to have a play later.

Thank you gents I have read your advice regarding battery condition, I should have remembered that I had an XJ8 that would fire up easily and charging was spot on but the asc light and trac light would stay on. I changed the battery all was fine and all the lights stayed off. Just to confuse me I did a 40 mile round trip yesterday with two stops and the abs light stayed on, I basically did the same trip today the abs light went off and stayed off! I’m sure it’s playing with me. I will look back at advice on a new battery but it will have to wait a couple of weeks I’m broke after the front suspenders.

Welcome to the forum my friend and congratulations on no advisories you have clearly done a good job. Yes I love my GV, it's good for me and good to me. I've shared your " look after her she'll look after you " for 5 decades - it's a 'trueism'.
 
IMO
 
Hoat 05 only - ever + 5 litres of distilled for coolant
Fully Synth only - ever for autobox
Small parts bag for 'top hats' saves time, new kit for top hats
 
Battery mod. Batteries. Winterizing. Chrysler Workshop manuals [including hens-teeth CRD] Inline stat mod. Parasitic Draw, all on this site somewhere. Best of luck.

As far as I'm aware no, Coding Is Not Required for 2.5 or 2.8 2000-2007.

I'm 05 changed mine nightmare access to garage hydraulic compressor's couldn't get them down with 4 and a very powerful electric gun.
 
Now to my point I did read on one one forum that a GV spring bottom plate had a notch bend in it, get the spring mounted NOT in the [holding] notch and all hell's gonna break loose.
 
Just a memory, hope this helps.

Just heard latest of my friend getting a peugeot that wouldn't start. He was about to strip it down, as normal, when he put his hand down back of engine and found the power supply cable to starter coil was a tad loose. He was a happy bunny.

Well certainly as Captain says check theres 12v at starter when applying. Have you done that.

Sounds like a TX1 London cab, originally VM Motori chain cam petrol marine engine. Never had one or worked on them. Usually good for donkey work 4-5 thousand miled
 
From your description of clicks & nothing the "trigger wire" would be my first on a menu of tests.
 
- IGN thin wire to switch direct to spade terminal on solenoid "permits" starter to be engaged !
- seized ?
- solenoid fekked?
- starter fekked ?
- bendix stuck on ?
 
Best of luck.

Opinion
 
America in 50's new housing builds all drives ramped up for flooding/builing laws engines big, thirsty and cheap petrol. Insane parts finder in any UK from Halfords to trade are "put your REG in here" and of course it thinks all American cars are 50a/400CCA small battery tray not in fact 800/85 big battery. All new batteries are prostituted substituted diluted scrapyard lead.
 
Hence
 
$hite EURO batteries but Varta AGM F19/start stop tech and Varta F18 SLI have both been good for me - ours are SLI tech. They both start our Mk but the AGM kills expensive auto smart 9 stage battery chargers.
 
Original 60 year design rear top-hat-drum "holding" brakes a nightmare to get set. Legacy of above housing only designed to stop car accident rolling back unattended into traffic. They rely on auto box locking pin holding car.
 
Batteries including Halfords posts on this site somewhere.
 
Take care buddy.

Well I did a quick check over and apart from the Radio (which can be a bit iffy anyway) everything worked, i.e. heated seat, lights, windows, wipers etc.
 
After connecting the Battery, I put the key in the ignition and the Speedo and Rev counter did a full sweep, which is what happens when trying to start when the Battery gets flat, only this time it cranked well and started straight away. The Heater Plug light didn't come on, but it started fine all the same.
 
I was going to try putting the 'Fuse' back in, but it was a lovely afternoon and I didn't have the nerve to upset the locals  , however I will go out over the next few days, and try it putting it back in when I find a quiet spot. 
 
I'm still wading through the mass of light bedtime reading a.k.a the links to the manuals   

Opinion
 
Less and less lead in them, Less and less quality of lead, EU forced 10% $hite lead from scrapyards into new batteries as a 'green climate' contribution gift to politics and a whole new industry was born into paying endless tax to governments. It used to be 4 bits of good wire through bulkhead, now it's tree sized looms computers controlled PCi signals poor quality Mexican aluminium.
 
Pre Y2k a 20 year old battery was still ok, these days they're not. You can still get Odeyssy who use virgin lead but salty price leaves a bad taste in your wallet. 90% scrap batteries are only sulfated not scrap. Under specified batteries are like domestic heating designed for 'planned deformation' and won't do the job requirement.

Good choice mate!
 
And yes that would be very useful info if you go round it and see what isn't working without it in.
 
With the door open - I've had cars lock when the battery is reattached. 
 
I personally would put the battery back on, let it do its computer start up sequence for as long as you feel is required, perhaps listening to the clicks and clacks going on.
Then pop the fuse in, ready to leg it round and pop the key in, or have the Mrs handy sat in the car with the door open and she can put the key and turn it on.
(my apologies if that is a sexist or otherwise comment nowadays, perhaps "significant other half" would be more PC)
 
The alarm comment is probably as you guessed, insurers can and will be arses given any tiny wriggle room.
But unless they needed it for transporting a gang for a job it's probably fairly safe as you say, I agree!!
Good luck to them nicking mine!

I'm confused too with alarm. I'm not clear if it was off/now working/ still off so still not sure about the blipper/wireless signal and alarm on/off hence the reason I said the word "marry" meaning the transponder/key fob/car protection might lose the handshake functions in the same way a button battery going flat would do. Locking/unlocking from blooper should re-marry and prove alarm/locking etc.
 
As for you and I were still here and kind of functional compared to some unfortunate others, poor sodds. I got my GOV SMS telling me to go lockdown about 7/8 weeks ago. Take care bignev bud.

It's the whole route protection for all PCi and other instructions from the BCM isn't it ?, The IPM covers whole car and all its 'pings' commands are routed through it:
 
Remote key fob
Radio
Heater blower
Folding mirrors
Central locks
 
Interior lights of course when the key is in the ignition
 
The power seat is a stand alone plug in but the Eeprom instruct command is still via IPM protection, isn't it ?

BCM stores long/short term errors. If it's cleared the short term one you are probably ok. You can't clear long term without very expensive diagnostic anyway.
 
What I'd do is - with a charged battery is lock in normal way pull NEG cable for 20 min. Replace 30a fuse. Lock and unlock 3 times with FOB blipper. What happens with alarm ?
 
Option 1 - It's a PCi BUS no different to any computer. When the battery (computer) goes on again you will hear a series of clicks as it tests various differen relays etc. You 'should' then lock/unlock doors and start vehicle as usual as bignev suggests. Does it ?
 
Option 2 - It works already if it ain't broke don't fix it, leave it, suck it and see.
 
Best of luck. Let the group know.

Hi,
 
Boost sensor is RED arrow and fuel pressure is GREEN.

Having a fair bit of time on my hands recently I decided to apply a PTFE coating to my dreaded Black Pearlescent Voyager.
Black is beautiful if you clean it and leave it in your garage (my garage is too small for the bus).
I HATE CLEANING CARS.
So, having bought this sealant a few months ago, I finally opened the bottle and armed with a mass of microfibre cloths commenced this dreaded operation.
So panel by panel applied the first coat (reactive agent ?), left it dry, buffed it off, applied the PTFE top coat stood back to admire the result (clean and shinny) and proceeded to the next panel.
After completing half the vehicle, went indoors for a coffee and decided enough was enough for the day. A couple of days later (slow to recuperate) decided that it wasn't going to finish itself.
In the meantime I went into town to get some essentials (as per HM govs rules) - I consider cream cakes part of my 5 a day, and noticed rain spots from the previous day still on the bonnet, so it's not magic but as the bottles were open and already paid for decided to carry on and complete the task. The last panel was the roof, and being 6'5" still needed to open the doors and stand with feet in the car to reach the centre of the roof. 
Please note that pigeons know exactly what you're doing and therefore shat all over the roof - despite Chris Packham's crusade I'd love a shotgun!
Regarding those rain spots, they didn't wipe off with a dry rag so had to wash them off - not difficult but thought this would be a thing of the past.
Anyway, will see how things go.

Aye and purple caravans, curtains, carpets. But then I found out about proper sausage/Haslet and other offal tasties. Was gonna whack on one of the locals on my first visits when a bloke in a club called me a duck. Then family explained a "me-duck" and indeed everyone used it for both genders. Salt of the earth, good top people, loved my visits.
 
You take care my friend, best of luck.