ivarens

Good advice from Sergejs. Thank You!

Cooler hopefully can be flushed since oil runs in pipes and pipes are connected to cooling ribs. Debris should come out.

As for the converter, there is either a repair or a new one. Checking out that issue. 

I'll be back for final info and hopefully a car on the road again.

Btw, a transmission from a 3,3 l petrol engine is available. Gear ratio difference, but will work(?)

18 hours ago, Sergejs said:

If metal particles are in the tray, this is not a good sign. Need to take gearbox off and look inside. You most probably have 41TE, A604 gearbox. Very popular gearbox in USA and Chrysler have stopped producing them only recently, 5 years ago or so. Plenty of second hand gearboxes available on e-bay, but I would recommend to put properly checked and reconditioned one. Another option is to buy second hand and repair kit with friction discs and to make one out of two. This is what I did. Also Torque converter need to be opened and reconditioned, if you want to do this job properly.

I have been through this process myself twice. Second time was my own fault as I haven't noticed faulty needle bearing. Gearbox itself is very simple, if you can follow simple procedures, there are plenty of information on You tube and in general with instructions and manuals. A lot of circlips to take out and put back.  

I'm in the process of reconditioning another gearbox unit for my Chrysler now, so, next time gearbox is broken, I have ready unit to put in.

Good question regarding using gearbox from petrol engine. I'm confident that gearbox from petrol 3.3 engine is the same as on 2.8 diesel, except gear ratios. It means that gearbox from petrol engine will work, but gears will change at different speeds (higher rpms). The only thing you need to check is electric connection on plug and pipe connections for oil cooler. All the fittings and everything else is the same. I have seen the post (possibly on this website) that guy did it on his diesel voyager and it worked well and he was very happy.

Good luck with your project!

Thanks a lot for valuable information! I will follow your advice about getting a properly checked one and also the converter - (really necessary?) Oil with metal in it is no good - should  the cooler be flushed also? I suppose the smaller pieces have been circulating for some time.

i suppose i can  fix the job except the opening up of the box and the converter. maybe its rather simple, but first time it will be...

Thanks again! 

I'll innform you on progress.

On 5/20/2023 at 10:51 PM, ivarens said:

OBD scanner to be ordered tomorrow. 

Well, gearbox gone, lots of metal fragments in bottom tray. Not repairable at moderate Costs.

Next question: will any generation IV gearbox fit in. That is from both diesel and gas engines?

I can find out what gearbox i have, but how to be sure a used one will fit in exactly??

On 5/13/2023 at 10:03 PM, aquawolfy said:

Hey guys, as seen before, my 2007 grand voyager 2.8 CRD finally got the cutting out issue, I first checked my fuel pressure valve because I was having some really bad start, which found out was leaking as hell, replaced it and still didn't do the job, I was still having a hard time starting. Checked my Fuel filter housing, which was also leaking from the heater element... got that and boom bingo, solved my bad start but got me the infamous cutting out issue.... So, above 2k5 rpm with my foot down the accelerator my engine just cut off instantly and I cannot restart it straight away I need to turn the ignition completely off and then switching it on again, it starts right away. I need no mention that I have ZERO absolute DTC stored, I've unplugged my boost solenoid, same problem, I've checked my return lines on my injectors all of them are ok. I also have idle problem only cold tho, It surges only cold, when at operating temps it disapears, idk if this could be related.... As said I've changed, my fuel filter, my filter housing, checked my injectors, checked my air filter, cam sensor, boost sensor, nothing does it.... I'm in despair, please help me....

Check out the HP fuel pump. Cheap repair as there is rater common that three steel balls that closes return fuel as pump rotates, get worn out. That is, getting smaller and are stuck for a split second so pressure falls and engine is cutting out. This is what an expert on diesel-electro told me. 

Some work though, getting the pump out...

On 4/9/2016 at 12:21 PM, leeoliver2010 said:

Mine went at same time as yours mate its torque converter I think so it's a whole rebuild have you had it done yet

I had it done, replacing it! 

Used gearbox from Lithuania. Lokal workshop did the job

Cost: £ 2500.

On 5/19/2023 at 2:57 PM, RichardM said:

Sorry but a lot more information is required to even guess what's happened - any OBD codes ? You say won't drive either way (assume forward and reverse ) but state less jumping in forward mode - please clarify. Is selection working correctly i.e. P R N 3 2 1 illuminating correctly ? Year, model, mileage - service history ? How long have you had the vehicle ?? 

Will try to help but there are many variables with the transmission.

OBD scanner to be ordered tomorrow. 

10 hours ago, bignev said:

You could well be unlucky and yes the transmission has given up, but maybe not.

Possibly start with clutching at straws, a fluid change, and maybe Lucas transmission additive, it's supposed to help with older boxes and the clutch parts.

On the OBD reading, there are now very cheap little boxes on ebay that work, plug in to the port and it sets up a local wifi field. Load the app and you're good to go! It will read loads of parameters and the codes, not sure on a GV if it would read transmission codes, it did on my Subaru of the same year, but that doesn't mean a thing with Chrysler! Obviously it won't do some stuff, but they are CHEAP, so well worth a try. I paid around £10, yes that's not a typo, TEN POUNDS.

Thanks a lot, my friend!  New filter has been ordered. Also correct ATF oil will be refilled.

I'ĺl keep you informed of any progress in fixing this problem.

Thanks for the answer. Here are some information

It's a 2005 GV,  235.000 km, no OBD-codes yet...hard to get, had this car now  for 5 years, hadde a fuel pump issue solved 3 years ago with cutting out at acceleration. Service history is poor, but done properly in my time. 

The behaviour now is almost the same as with the cutting out, but then the engine stopped and had to be restarted. Now the engine runs ok! Feels like its jumping out of gear if fitted with a manual gearbox. After two weeks with no use it has  become much worse so to speak as it started "jumping" when rpm increased both forward and  much more in reverse. As a consequense I now suspect the transmission in some way. 

Oil level checked to be ok. A little brownish colour though. 

I suppose I need OBD - codes to start with, but have no suitable instrument at this time. A lokal workshop has one, but must bring the car o them, and thats a challenge. 

I'm no expert, but as a Chrysler ovner there is always something "going on". 

Hopefully, this info can help figuering out the next step to get the Chrysler on the road again.

Anyone with a Quick fix? Won't drive either way, but less jumping in forward mode. Feels like it's slipping 

I believe this is a fuel pump issue. The pump unable to  deliver high pressure fuel to the rail. Reason is worn out   stainless  small  steel  roller balls that get stuck in conic channels as pump rotates. Get 4 New balls, exchange them yourself and problem solved.

On 11/16/2022 at 4:51 PM, Fiona said:

I am now on my 3rd GV. I have a 2007 Stow n Go. I am now facing the engine cut out problem when revving near 3000 rpm that Ive had with my other two GV's which were 2.5CRD. I know these had two filters, the screw on type near the engine and the paper type near the tank. Every time I try to find filters for the 2007 2.8CRD I can only find the screw on type. is this correct? And on another topic, where and what type are the three non-return valves in the fuel line?

Thanks in anticipation.

I suggest you check the fuel pump first. Common problem with these engines.  In my case all other plausible reasons for cutting out were tried out first. Major mistake! Cutting out is as simple as fuel shortage or lack of fuel when  accelerating. Just remove the pump and let a diesel expert have a look, can be repaired mostly, not replaced:)

Solved this problem on my 2005 GV. 

After a massive exchange and cleanup of sensors, filters, fuel filter housing etc. the remaining cause had to be the fuel pump itself.

Handed it over to a mechanic who confirmed that two out of three return valves were stuck. This led to a drop in fuel pressure or lack of fuel to the injectors as only 1/3 of the diesel could pass.

Replaced the small steel balls of the right size and problem fixed. These balls came in a small bag and was easily fitted. These balls get worn out over the years. I see a lot of frustrated GV owners out there, like myself. 

Great car except for all that needs fixing all the time

A lot of interesting ideas in this forum, but don't get carried away.  Engine cutting out at acceleration must be fuel starvation. Take it from there. Check the moving parts first....they always wear out first...

Wow many thanks Guys .

 

However what I was trying to ascertain was (because I have removed the 'pink 30A fuse'), what effect is there/will there be on the rest of the car if I were to carry on using it with the fuse permanently removed ?.

 

When I removed the Fuse (yesterday) to shut the Alarm up, the car started okay, I then went for a drive and it stopped and started okay, just been out now and it started okay, so it can't have anything to do with the immobiliser ?

 

Unfortunately I don't have a handbook/wiring diagram to know whats what 

I suggest you replace the alernator or check out the diodes or circuits on it

My garage insists on this and saying that 9 out of 10 batrery drain issues has a cause in the alternator. I did this replacement at cost £150 (1500 NOK) problem fixed

Well, temerature rising is natural when cooling is not sufficient, as simple as that!

Had the same problem. Now solved?

1. Install a new radiator (it will eventually start leaking anyway on these models)

2. Replace the thermostate.

This is quite å job so why not replace timing belt and waterpump when at it?

I did this in two days in my garage - diy guy as i am.

Car turned out good as new and temperature never rises even when pulling a heavy trailer.

Flushing won't clear the radiator.

After this job i guess i'll keep the car a couple more years....thousands of dollars saved.

It's a 2005 GV, 2,8 crd, 230.000 km

Yes, should have tested more parts before replacing them. That's true. Ebay is rather cheap...My MAP sensor was actually completely emmpty so needed replacing. The overall issue was the fuel pump though. Glad it turned out well.

Fault codes are somewhat unspecified so when it comes to fuel pump, pressure and injectors there are a number of possible solutions. This forum is very handy in ways of adressing the problem issues, but most of us are diy-guys. Some are experts and we should be glad for them sharing their knowledge.

Problem solved!!

In my case, a 2005 GV 2,8 crd gradually pulled weaker and weaker over a year time or so. Finally it did not start at all. All relevant sensors replaced or cleaned, including diesel filter housing, map sensor, fuel pressure sensor on rail and fuel pressure regulator on the high pressure fuel pump in front. No rear fuel pump on this model.

That left me with the fuel pump itself. Therefore replaced timing belt, water pump and thermostat while at it. The EGR got a cleanup, but was not so bad.

The pump was then handed over to a diesel mechanic that found two out of three return valves were stuck, that is: only 1/3 of fuel volume and pressure reached the injectors. THIS CAUSES STALLING UNNDER LOAD AND PROBLEMS STARTING IT. TYPICAL PROBLEM ON THIS FORUM.

A lot of work, but after 230.000 km the fuel pump usually needs renewal or service.

My problem solved, but lots of frustration along. And...too many months in my garage...thanks tu Covid-19 work from home has been the rule fram april here in Norway so did not need the car so badly this periode.

Hi!

As a new member here i'm pleased to see all the tips and advices to solve all occurring failures on  the 2,8 crd models IV'th generation. I have a 2005 GV 2,8 crd 220.000 km. 

I've got a stalling issue when  accelerating slightly. Don't ever reach 2000 rpm .

First i've changed the pressure sensor on  the HP pump,  then  the MAF-sensor which didn't have any elctronics in it at all. 

The diesel filter is replaced and tightened.

Engine still cutting out!

Then  put a see-through plastic diesel pipe to check for air bubbles from  the diesel filter housing to the HP pump.

This, with the help from  my wife, showed a lot of air bubbles at startup and som  minor bubbles when  i provoced a cut out in  the garage. Easy to do depressing brake pedal...

Question: Can  these large air bubbles at start up still be there and cause the engine cutting out when more fuel is needed for acceleration??

Will order new filter assembly with heater as soon  as possible.