frogland

Er, just a thought, but don't the codes stay in the memory unless they are cleared?
 
Does it run fine now? If so it could now be ok but still showing history codes. My abs sensor ring did exactly that.
 
On all 3 of my 3.3 petrols the radiator cooling fan comes on before it's up to temp, possibly say 1/4 mark, then off, then settles to an expected pattern - if it's ruddy hot, or the AC is on, it runs.

Yes.

The test for the boost sensor is made with the plug in?...did you have your engine running while the plug disconnected?!?!?!
If you did, most likely the check engine light came on, if it doesn't turn off disconnect the battery terminals for 20-30 mins and see if that helps.
 
Anyway, I believe the reading are not good readings, so I will wait until you reply to this topic with the reading when engine running because even if you took the readings with the engine on..after disconnecting the plug you will have wrong measurements.
 
Have a look at the picture attached, if the values don't mach my previous post, chase the cables and do a polarity test checking for any physical damage.
 
The boost sensor is labelled B105 and the MAF is B101 
Terminal number 3 from boost sensor goes to the MAF sensor terminal number 2

Hi, I'm also in the south of France, just behind Cannes.
 
I just changed the fuel filter and the fuel filter housing and so far so good.
 
The old fuel filter housing had a membrane inside it that was damaged and we think that it was allowing air into the system.

My fault the proper way to express it is 33K [33,000] Ohm Metal Film Resistor @ 0.5W. NOTE : Not the 1/4W in your thumb.

I didn't have time to take mine apart to post a picture but it should have a wire there with an electronic component, I can't say if it is  resistor or not.
If you search it online you could see it.
 
Hope it helps.

Just wanted to post another follow-up, I'm still free of engine cutting out, but it still doesn't feel like it's running smoothly. So my summary of what's gone on:
 
Filter change, ensuring housing is tight and seal correct - essential Running injector/diesel cleaner through the tank a few times - seems to improve things Fuel heater - unsure if this makes any difference at all! Replacing the MAP/TC sensor - this seems to have solved the issue for me So for now, a cold start seems OK (Bit of a chug but starts generally first time with a cloud of smoke (unburnt diesel))
A warm start seems troublesome, it'll turn over and over without seeming to 'catch' or fire, but waggling the accelerator whilst turning it over and sometimes clicking the ignition on and off a couple of times will make it start.
I'm not 100% on the cause of that warm start problem at the moment, it also feels like it's running a little rough between the 2.5 and 3k revs area but not significantly. Idling is fine no stutters, power and acceleration are there (I can foot to floor and belt it up a hill without hesitation).

My radio is original, but when chasing a power draw, I removed it and found that it had previously had an aftermarket stereo fitted. 
This was what was causing my battery drain. There was a wire that was live all the time, that should have no power to it with the keys removed.
In my case, the electric windows work all the time, and the clock on the radio is always displaying the time. 
Suspect the wiring's been messed about with somewhere, to give the aftermarket stereo that had been fitted a constant live feed. I fitted a seperate switch to isolate the constant live. 

Something you could try tonight is pull the rdo ewd/rr wpr fuse, see if that keeps the battery voltage around the 12.6.
 Ideally, you would use a test meter and check for a current draw. Mines was 600mA, and it went down to around 30mA when pulling the fuse I've mentioned. 

Try to find your model in the link below. It is a manual with pictures and detailed texts which I found very useful.
 
http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service%20Manuals/

Tonight do this: after a half an hour an hour trip, disconnect the battery terminal and che k tomorrow what voltage do you get.
Is the battery good?

Hi,
Sorry was away a few days (almost 1,000 miles added to the GV and no issues with cutting out I'm pleased to say).
 
Yes, I found the same thing, the heater was disconnected, when tested/reconnected it was a dead short, looks like it's in the wiring loom somewhere up behind the glovebox as it passes between outer and inner bodywork, I've not yet traced it as I simply cut it back under the carpet and wired it up elsewhere, happy to give details if you need it.
 
In terms of my cutting out, no I don't think it was ultimately the issue, though may have been one of many combined together causing me issues. Unless you have problems I'd not worry about it as also cannot see it making a huge difference.

Its missing a replaceable resistor get a UK one to be safe or just put a 20p resistor in. Best of luck.

Thanks all.
And so it continues! So I've been tracking down the short to ground on the fuel heater wiring, I *think* it's where the wiring loom comes in from the passenger side wheel through into the cockpit behind the glovebox, but I didn't dismantle the dash far enough.
So, what I've done is located the wiring loom down the centre of the vehicle, identified the wiring colours from the IPM/fusebox and cut the wires towards the rear before it went back out to the pump assembly connector.
 
I've included photos so everyone else has reference if they ever need to trace cables/wiring looms!
 
Back of the IPM (remove battery, then the IPM flips up easily from a plastic clip) and the connector in question is the ORANGE almost dead centre here. Traced that to the relay switched positive side. (So from battery positive it goes to one side of the 20a fuse, other side of fuse goes to relay (omron 21911c) pin 87. Output of switched relay pin 30 goes to dark blue wire with orange stripe pin 2 on the orange connector at back of IPM.
 

 
So then follow that wiring loom, it goes into the wheel arch on passenger side, up and over and into the cockpit. I didn't identify that location, but that's my guess where the damage to the loom exists. That's my next job as my thinking is if that wire has shorted, another or others are next on the hit list!
 
Inside the car the loom then splits and either goes along the passenger door, passenger seat belt pillar, to rear door. Other part of the loom crosses somewhere under the passenger seat, into the middle duct of the car. So to access that, take the mount for the centre middle-row console out.
 

You can see the black plastic cover for the duct. Unfortunately the break/split point is somewhere along the middle between the middle and rear seats, so as you can see I decided to cut the carpet to gain access.
 

 
And you can then lift up the plastic and gain access
 

 
You can see the rubber grommit where the cables that run down to the lift pump go, so that wiring plug carries: fuel heater, fuel lift pump, and water-in-diesel sensor. 6-way.
 
The connector underneath that plugs into the lift pump assembly is a 6-way, pin 1 (top left) is the heater pin (dark blue wire with orange stripe) and bottom right (pin6) is ground.
The fuel heater is approx 3ohms on mine, which @12v and 20amp potentially equates to a 240watt heater! Wow, so this runs almost constantly, so another big battery drain to be aware of! It's on at the moment ignition is in first position, so something to be aware of if you sit listening to the radio a lot on the 2.8CRD with this setup!!
 
Anyway, after all this, I've wired it in direct and tried again and I'm still getting rough idling, cutting out at idle and hesitation, so it hasn't solved my problem (Also replaced fuel filter for good measure again).
 
So I'm onto more thinking :-(
 
I've got the specs for two sensors I'm going to test next, one is the intake air temperature sensor (Which is incorporated into the TC boost sensor, 4-wire jobby). The next is the MAF, again check readings, etc.
 
After that, must be injectors?

Have a look at post #40 and read on from there. Andy has found the fuse and relay missing from his.
 
http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/2219-28crd-cutting-out-above-25k-rpm/page-2

HiYa Gordy, even if the interior lights were all left on by accident or even deliberately they should ALL be switched off [sleep mode] by the BCM software about 15 minutes after locking the vehicle up.
 
With me it is / was / continues to be (self inflicted)  'lifestyle' x2 15 minute trips in the summer will replace the starting draw value but will go nowhere close to replacing the starting draw value in the winter. I see the MOD as a purse / bank ... you are deffo going to run out of banked-starts ... when it will happen depends on how big and how full the bank is in the 1st place.
 
frogland. Lots of people have done the batteryMOD, all 100% effective, zero reports of any problems, here's my original post on the subject :
 
 

If is 12.5v after one overnight it is something wrong with the electrics.
I bet if left two three days it does not start anymore, if I were you I would investigate further...
As per the fault code, have you ruled out the sensor first, I don't remember exactly but I gave these tests to someone else as well:
-pin 3 and 5(plug disconnected) testing the maf sensor you should have 336000 ohmi with 18 Celsius outside
-4 and 5 disconnected testing the maf sensor you should have 340000 ohmi
-2 and earth disconnected testing the supply( wiring) with ignition on you should have 11-14 v
-3 and 4 plug connected engine at idle you should have 5v
3 and 5 plug connected engine at idle you should have 1.6v
 
Same fault code applies for the turbocharger boost pressure sensor and test is as per below:
-pin 1 and 4 connected and engine at idle you should have 1.6v
-pin 1 and 4 connected engine at 2500 rpm you should have 2v.
 
Hope it helps.

Yes I've got your bigger battery choice as well, having to cut a bit of battery tray out. Worth while job. I got rid of my battery drain problem by turning off interior lights at the adjuster wheel every time I get out.
P0235 still on going with my car, goes into temp limp mod if I boot it. Thought to be over-boost with Turbo waste-gate not being operated by the actuator. Had the complete shutdown issue on booting it but Boost sensor sorted that. 

Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace.
 
Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Best of luck.
 
Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week.
 
The  higher  the  voltage  applied,  the  faster the battery will charge, charging at too  high a voltage WILL  damage  your  battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid  battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% :
 
- @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A
- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]
- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A
- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%]
 
- two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;
- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement  of  about  300%
 
The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged.
 
- 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator
- 14.00 volts  is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator
- 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing
- 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time
 
NOTE01 : I wouldn't buy one, or use one, but in the interests of even handed-ness a spiral will do the job - make sure you get the right 'posts' for your type !
NOTE02 : There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo 4W solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and it was useless. I used a top end German 80W solar system, woprked in the summer useless in the winter.
 
IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual.
 
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. Excessive IOD can be caused by:
 
• Electrical items left on.
• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
• An internally shorted generator.
• Intermittent shorts in the wiring
 

Optima thread here, type 96 describes all / any brand close to 80/800 such as the Varta E38 etc. Dont ever under any circumstances use one of those put your REG in here. Loads of info including cutting the battery tray walkthroughs here in this forum somewhere. Anyone with unexpectedly high off-draw should look for recent changes made to wiring, particularly new radio have been made to wiring leading to IOD issues and parasitic drain.

 

I've been having the the classic low fuel pressure problems in my 2.8 crd.
Hard to start,constantly having to hand prime to start and press the accelerator. I checked the filter housing for leaks,and the fuel filter everything seems ok.I did the leak back test on the relief valve on the rail and that seemed fine so I was really starting to think fuel solenoid on the pump or dribbling injectors.
Anyway today I changed the battery from a 560A 70AH to a 800A 85AH I had to chop the tray but eventually got the bigger unit in place.
Low and behold the car started without any assistance !!
After a couple of minutes the cooling fan kicked in and then stopped ( is this normal ?)
It seems like a different car.
Its early days and we'll see how it goes but it's looking promising for now.
I think i'll be looking at doing the Leedsman's battery mod as well.

I've been having the the classic low fuel pressure problems in my 2.8 crd.
Hard to start,constantly having to hand prime to start and press the accelerator. I checked the filter housing for leaks,and the fuel filter everything seems ok.I did the leak back test on the relief valve on the rail and that seemed fine so I was really starting to think fuel solenoid on the pump or dribbling injectors.
Anyway today I changed the battery from a 560A 70AH to a 800A 85AH I had to chop the tray but eventually got the bigger unit in place.
Low and behold the car started without any assistance !!
After a couple of minutes the cooling fan kicked in and then stopped ( is this normal ?)
It seems like a different car.
Its early days and we'll see how it goes but it's looking promising for now.
I think i'll be looking at doing the Leedsman's battery mod as well.

Couldn't connect for a few days does anyone know what the problem was ?

Rolling the car backwards was an inadvertently interesting comment to me.
 
A Story
 
I called the system design she-brakes. Back in the 'big block shooting brake' days when rich America was in the middle of a roads and housing boom new towns just off motorways were built with big wide boulevard's and the roads were deliberately sunk low so drives were up a slope to allow drainage from the property. There was a rash of insurance claims made for 2 1/2 ton cars rolling unattended backwards into traffic so the 'top hat' shoe was redesigned to grab the trailing rather than the leading edge - after all it's a parking brake design not a handbreak. This still exists as far as I'm aware to this day.