frogland

Sorry to bring up that old chestnut but what coolant should i put in ?

As soon as i've finished tie rods/ends and got it through the mot i'm going to check the turbo,egr valve and i'll change the thermostat whilst i'm there a coolant change is in order as well. I know it's going to be a bitch to do but it's gotta be done.

Luckily i'm in no rush to use the car.

Ok I was under the impression that a replacement actuator couldn't be sourced.

Do you remember where you got it ?

cheers.

Did you have to replace the turbo ?

Thanks for that Mr ryden that gives me a lot to get on with !

The question i'm trying to answer is this : are the two symptoms ( fuelling / lack of boost ) linked ?

If they're not then the boost problem is my priority because it really affects drive quality.

I recently noticed this when i'd turned off the engine there was a hissing noise coming from here (see image), is it usual ?

Its always idled fine. I just have to make sure i ignition with my foot down on the accelerator. I've got into the habit of priming the fuel filter as well. I will eventually get a new filter housing just so that i can cross that off the list as a probable cause.

Im in the process of renewing the tie rods/ends amazingly they came off easily even without a special tool !!!!

Maybe bite the bullet and get another sensor ?

Did the test with the plug connected ,with the engine idling : 4,85v, engine at 2500rpm :4,85v. ??

Thanks for the replies I'll keep you updated.

I've checked the sensor and it's ok.

Checking for damaged wires would mean opening the loom and following them to ?? Do they go to the ecu ?

I'm tempted to disconnect the Ecu and give it a go with contact cleaner,whats the procedure ? batterie earth plug off first and then disconnect the plug.

Ok that's clear thanks.

How dirty/blocked was your manifold when you removed it ?

 

I've sent you a P M.

thanks

I also got this reading.

I got this idling and and at 2500rpm.

Thanks,yeah it helps I really wanted to make sure that it was possible.

If I did remove the manifold from underneath would I have to remove anything else ?

I've replied to you on another thread concerning testing the boost sensor wiring.

Thanks again.

I have just checked the Autodata and the code you gave is related to boost sensor but the suggestion is wiring, you saying it is new, I assume the fault was investigated before however, try the fallowing:

 

pin 1 and 4, with engine idling you should have 1.6V

pin 1 and 4 with engine at 2500rpm, it should read 2V.

The above test is to check the signal

Let us know the results and we will see from there.

 

Hope it helps.

Hi I've received the new probes for my multimeter so i'm going to be able to carry out this test.

I presume you mean the pins on the plug whilst it is disconnected from the sensor ?

Pin 1 is the earth right ?

cheers.

Has anyone removed the turbo from the top with the engine still in place on a 2.8 crd ?

I know it's a going to be a pig and a lot has to be removed to gain access but I won't need the car for a while so i've got the time.

I don't want to pull the engine out, I'm not that well equiped.

Can any parts of the subframe be removed safely to gain better acess to the bolts from underneath ?

Cheers.

I've already checked it and it's not leaking,it was easy to do so that's where i started.

It starts first-time-every-time i open the throttle upon ignition.

If I can be sure there's no connection between the two issues I'll focus on the boost issue first.

I've ordered some extra fine multimeter probes to test the boost sensor,if it's not a wiring/ecu issue I'll start looking at the turbo.

Replaced the fuel filter,starting slightly better but not perfect.

Primer pump still not staying firm.

I going to remove the housing to check for cracks but there's no fuel coming out from there and no signs of damage to plug.

I f that's not the cause what next , injectors ?

Could the P0235 code (boost)and the fuel problem be connected ?

Tie rods have failed the MOT so i'm gonna replace them,I've never done inner rods before.

From what i understand I'm going to have to acquire a tool to undo them, will this one do the job ?

It says 'head application from 35 mm -45mm diameter.

I'm having trouble finding the dimensions. Also any tips ?

Is there a risk of damaging the pinion in the rack ?

The thermostat has never been replaced and I've heard that it's a weak link or at least one of them ?

The fuel filter is in the engine bay.

The housing plug and socket show absolutely no signs of damage,but there could still be a crack ?

I've ordered a filter and will remove the housing at the same time and keep you up to date.

 

I presume that when I go through all the hassle of of getting to the back of the engine I should do the calorstat,turbo and egr at the same time ?

Had a bit of time this morning : Fuel pressure release valve at end of rail is not leaking.

Engine has started every time when foot is pressed on throttle,still cuts out after a second without throttle.

Hand primer on filter housing doesn't get firm with engine running !

Is there a specific procedure related to fuel filter replacement,is it best to refill new filter beforehand ?

It's normal that i can't accelerate above 2500 rpm stationary ?

 

Thanks.

I presume that when I go through all the hassle of of getting to the back of the engine I should do the calorstat,turbo and egr at the same time ?

Thanks all this info is taken on board and i'll keep you informed.